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Jimjific

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Posts posted by Jimjific

  2. Posted · Edited by Jimjific · Report reply

    What is your target top RPM?

     

    Engine Size - 302

    RPM - ??

    Vol. Efficiency = ~.85

     

    Use this equation:

    ((Engine Size x RPM)/3,456)/Vol. Eff. = CFM

    Or in your case:

    ((302 x RPM)/3,456)/.85 = CFM

     

    So if you are going to spin your motor up to 5K rpm then:

    ((302 x 5000)/3,456)/.85 = 514CFM

     

    Jim

  5. Posted · Edited by Jimjific · Report reply

    Do to things outside of my control, it might be time to sell my fastback.

     

    Here are the details:

    - Med Blue Winter Metallic

    - Blue Interior

    - 302/C6 AT

    - Power Disc brakes

    - Rack and pinion steering.

    - TCP coil over front shocks

    - Jointed strut rods

    - Magnum 500's w/235/60r15 all around

    - Console

    - Originally an A/C car

    - LED dash lights

    - Sequential hood blinker lights.

    - Dual exhaust with GT tips and valence.

     

    Things that still need to be done:

    - I have but never put in a new battery side fender apron. If I still have the car, I will plan on replacing this sometime in July.

    - I never detailed the engine but it runs great.

    - A couple of seams in the headliner have separated.

     

    Other than that it is a pretty clean fun car. It handles awesome. I haven't gotten aggressive in selling it yet. I figured I'd test the water here first.

     

    If interested, let me know and I can send you a bunch of pictures. Looking to get 21k.

     

    I live near Albany, NY

     

    Jim

     

    100_1265.jpg

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Bob,

     

    TCP allows you to change the ride height by using different mounting plates that hold the top of the shock. I went with the flat plate since I wasn't sure how the suspension height was going to be. I ended p making my own plates that have an ear on them to mount my homemade Monte Carlo bar. The only issue with using the shock mount to adjust ride height is that you are using the suspension travel and thus are changing the geometry of the suspension during normal driving. The best way to change the ride height is with drop spindles, but they aren't adjustable.

     

    Jim

  7. Posted · Report reply

    True enought about the ride height adjusting. You can get a litlle out of playing with the spring perch. I found it works the opposite of what you think until you think about it. If you raise the perch so the spring is mote compressed it will actually raise the that corner. This is because you are pre-loading the spring. I wasnted to lower mine a little so I loosened the perch as far as I could so that spring had little to no pre-load on it. I've designed a way to allow the top mount to be adjustable so you could truly change the ride height but still haven't made the parts for it.

     

    Jim

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Yea, I gave up on car shows after the first one I ever entered. It was a three day rod-run that ended with a car show on the last day. Well it rained the whole day of the car show and when it came time for the results, the announcer said that some of the winners weren't present. Really? I spent the whole day in the rain and the winners where people with cars that couldn't let them get wet? From that show on, I have always just laid back and talked with people and left before awards are handed out.

     

    Jim

  10. Posted · Report reply

    I would think that the bolts that hold the tank to the body would provide you a ground regardless of the weatherstripping. Do you have a volt meter with a conductivity mode? If you do "ring" out the tank to the frame then the sending unit to the frame. If they both "Ring" out, then you have a good ground and the issue is in the sending unit.

     

    Jim

  11. Posted · Report reply

    A rack system is the way to go. Worm gear gear boxes will always have a dead spot. They wear out at center since that is where most of the back and forth happens. Tightening may help in the dead spot but it will them be to tight at the other extremes of the the steering. True, I've lost a little steering radius but it is not an issue outside of parking lots. Even then it isn't that bad. Well worth the gain in steering performance. I always tell people, if steering boxes are so great, why did they stop using them? Also, most rack systems are reversible.

     

    My opinion,

    Jim

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Glad to hear you didn't cause any damage. Off the top of my head, the dumbest thing I've ever done was one time I was adjusting the rockers on a 66 conv. and I was using a screw driver to bump the engine over by hitting connecting the positive terminal to the solenoid. Well all was going well until I brain farted and grabbed the extension instead of the screw driver. Worst shock I've ever gotten. Low volts but high amps. I can still see my arm twitching trying to let go of the tool.

     

    Jim

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Jimjific how do you like the bolt in coil over kit from total control?
    390Mach,

     

    There are pros and cons.

    Pros:

    - Relatively cheap to get into an adjustable coil over.

    - Easy install

    - Makes working on your front suspension a breeze. No need for a spring compressor to tear down your front suspension.

    - Fun to play with the different setting. I only went with the single adjust.

     

    Cons:

    - Ride height is NOT adjustable.

    - A stiffer spring is required since it attaches to the upper A-arm. Lower arm designs allow attachment to be made further away from the arms fulcrum so the wheel(contact point) has less mechanical advantage allowing the use of a softer spring which results in a smoother ride.

     

    All in all I am very happy with how they work. Someday I may change over to the lower arm style but these are a great entry level product and have made a definite improvement in the Stangs handling.

     

    Jim

  18. Posted · Report reply

    I converted and you will notice a difference. One, they are less likely to pull to one side. I did mine in stages, I first put in the disk brakes then I put a power booster in. Just remember, you will need a new master cylinder in either case. I still have the almost new non-power master cylinder and would be willing to sell it since right now it is a paper weight.

     

    Jim

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hello All,

     

    At somewhat of a crossroads on how to move forward on my projects so I figured I'd ask you for your opinion. Now, I understand that some, well maybe most of you, will be biased since this is a mustang site. Here's my two dilemma/options.

     

    - If you don't know, I have a 69 med winter blue metalic fastback, 302, AT, AC (not working). I have put PDB in it as well as a rack and coil overs. Car handles great but it is nothing special in the quarter mile dept.

     

    - I also have sitting in my barn a no rust Dark Green 68 XR-7 GT "S" code Cougar. The car needs a new engine which I have a block for and it also needs to be restored. The interior is stripped out but I have everything but the console and steering wheel.

     

    So the question is, if you had to keep one car, which one would you keep? I could sell the Mustang and use the money to build the Cougar (My plan was to stroke the engine to 427) or sell the Cougar and build a motor for the stang. I like to think I could do both but reality is with room and now also having a 69 C-10, the Cougar is just going to be a barn find for someone some day. I love the Mustang, but going to a show with a true "S" code Cougar would be pretty awesome.

     

    Thanks for any thoughts,

     

    Jim

  21. Posted · Report reply

    I'm running 235/60's on 15 x 7 Magnums up front. No problems. If you do the "Shelby" drop though, you do have to watch out for the wheels not being centered do to the increase in forward mounting of the upper arm. It can be corrected with a shim on the forward stud that mounts the arm. I owe Prayers1 a measurement to the ball joint. It's just been too cold to want to do anything on the car.

     

    Jim

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Seems that there is another one.

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-Boss-429-15-000-original-documented-miles-/281253658756?forcerrptr=true&hash=item417c064084&item=281253658756&pt=US_Cars_Trucks

     

    This ones a bargain since it is 100K cheaper. Interesting that the motor got destroyed with so little miles. It must have seen some quarter miles. Also, there is a good shot of the backside of the hood scoop. Pretty bad fit. It doesn't look like they tried to contour it at to match the hood details.

     

    Jim

  25. Posted · Report reply

    I actually have a story about e-bay and a Boss 429. Back around 2000 when e-bay was new and fun to look at, I used to look at Mustangs all the time. Whenever a Boss 429 became available (They used to sell for just over $100K back then) I would bid around 30-40K and be the high bidder and tell the wife I am the current owner of a Boss 429 just for fun. Knowing full well that either the reserve wasn't met or I would be outbid anyway. If I wasn't, I surely would have scrounged up $30K to pay for one in a hart beat.

     

    Anyway, one day the wife is on e-bay and see's a Boss 429 and asks should she bid our typical $30K on it. I say sure go ahead. So she goes ahead and bids but accidentally adds an extra zero making our max bid $300K. Needless to say we were the high bidder and would most likely win the car. The panic in my wife's face was priceless and I still get a good chuckle at it today. She was affraid to do anything with e-bay for quite a while after that. I guess it's funny now that that bid wouldn't win this car today.

     

    Jim

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