Jimjific

I recently put in TCP coil overs. Be careful on the claims that coil overs adjust ride height. I wish I had looked at TCP's design more carefully since you can not adjust ride height with them. You can adjust spring preload (which effect ride height a little, but not more than a 1/4 inch) and you can adjust the shocks compression but that is it. I will be making some adjustable mounting cups for mine in the future so that I can truly adjust the front end height. Other than that, they are great. They make working on the suspension more enjoyable. Jim

I'd show you Mario's signature on the valve cover but I can't open the hood more than 18"! Sorry, I don't like the car and then the most interesting thing about it, the motor in my opinion, you can't even get a good look at. For as good as this guy is supposed to be, seems like a big oversight to me. Jim

Thanks for the link to the pedal. It implies that you can keep the auto brake pedal. I wonder how much clearance there is between them. Jim

This is a tough one. I'm having the same debate in my head daily. I keep heading back to stroking a roller 302. One, if your rebuilding, it's not much more than doing a stoke rebuild and two, I will have a lot more header choices and it seems like more aftermarket choices. Another thing, If I go with a 351, I would end up stroking that, then I would have to get a new rear end (9 Inch) and a T-5 probably isn't a good choice either for that much power. So to me, a 351 will cost way more in the end. I plan on trying to do some autocross so there is a weight penalty for the 351 too. I've had high end horsepower motors and to me, they aren't that fun to drive unless you are on a track and how often does that happen. I sold a 70 Mach1 that I loved because after building the Cleveland for what was supposed to be "Torque" recipe, I had no brakes at idle and it was zero fun below 3500 RPM. The risk with the smaller 302 is the horse power trap that you can fall into which usually equals power on the high RPM side. When I build mine I will pay little attention to HP and worry more about torque. but like someone said, take inventory of what you want the car to be so you will be happy about it when you are done. After saying all of that, I might just end up going with a 351.

Hello Everyone, I'm hoping this will be a quick easy answer. I'm looking to convert to a roller block and a T-5 trans. I have a guy who will sell me everything from block to rear tail. The car is currently a stock 2 barrel 302 with a C4 Auto. My question is, can I do this in stages? Meaning, can I hook up the T5 bell housing, flywheel and clutch first to my original 302, then build my roller motor later? I guess what I'm really getting at are there any balancing issues between a roller motor and an older stock 302? The hardest part looks like finding a pedal set that that someone doesn't want a mint for. Thanks, Jim

Yes, they do seem hard to find. I see that Mustang Unlimited refers t a 4Amp fuse but doesn't have it listed anywhere. I did find them on NPD's site though. Jim

Thanks for the info. I know that the fuse is part of the problem since the one I pulled out was blown. then I misplaced it. I will hunt for the 4 Amp fuse. It is a short one. Jim

Can anyone tell me what AMP fuse to use for the instrument lights and where they got them? I've looked at NAPA, Radio shack and Autozone and non seem to carry the old style fuses. Thanks, Jim

Can anyone tell me what AMP fuse to use for the instrument lights and where they got them? I've looked at NAPA, Radio shack and Autozone and non seem to carry the old style fuses. Thanks, Jim

Here's mine. I went for the classic 15x7 Magnums with 235/60's all around. Out of the ten plus Mustangs I've owned in the past, this is the first car I've had with Magnums. Jim

Looks cool and I would love to go simple EFI. Does anyone know if you need a return line? I couldn't find any info on if it did. Jim

I once had a 390 with a 3.00 4spd and loved highway cruising. It was awesome being able to pass people since going from 70 to 80 took only a flick of the foot. Unless you do an O.D. I'd stick with the 3.00 Jim

Looks great. I've always loved Black Jade. If I ever become rich, my fantasy car is a black jade Boss 429. Jim

I just checked e-bay, some guy wants $55.55 for a right hand side one. Ouch. Jim

Hello Everyone, I purchased a Passenger Side Sport Mirror and needed to get a mirror to body gasket. I ordered a set from Mustangs Unlimited and they are the worst reproduction piece that I've ever seen. They are not even close to looking useful. So, does anyone know a good source for these gaskets? Thanks, Jim

When I lived in CA I had a GT/CS with a 289 that was a high end h.p. motor. I would spin that motor all the time above 6k and I ran one of those plastic flex fans. I can't remember the brand but it weighed nothing and it worked great. I never over heated either. Jim

Jay, Thanks. If you have the room, getting a lathe is a great piece of equipment. I paid ~$1200 for mine. It is a 9" South Bend engine lathe (They call them that because back in the day, just about every car repair garage had one and they would do everything from make axles to cut pistons from blanks. The way I look at the purchase is, if I use it for these kinds of projects, I will save money and it will pay for itself. I figure I have already saved about $400 in parts I have made. And, I have the satisfaction of knowing I made them. as for using it, there is so much info on the web it makes learning so much easier. As for the rack, I will be posting the install soon. I am just finishing up with that (Hopefully tonight). It uses the same rack (From "J" body GM cars i.e. 94 Cavalier) that is found on the Randall's rack but with two major differences. One, Randall modifies the rack so you are subject going back to him if you have any issues vs. just going to your auto store or e-bay and getting one for about $100. Two, it doesn't require you to take out the stock cross member. This is advantageous since the rack isn't being used for anything structural. RPM, Thanks for the welding tip. Suspension will come when I get it buttoned up. I have a ton of pictures to sort through. as for the 351. I go back and forth in my head almost every day with this. I've always wanted to build my own stroked 351W. 351W is one of the few motors I've never had. the problem is, making too much power changes things like having to get a 9inch rear. I also want to keep the car drivable. I don't know, I'll have to see when I'm ready what block I come across first. Larry, I may have to take you up on that offer. You're right about the power thing in autocross. A guy here at work built an FFR Cobra w/351 stroked to 393 and raced it this summer and he never gets out of 1st gear.

Thanks. I hope to maybe try to race next year. Right now, with just a two barrel 302 that I don't have the history on hooked up to a C4, I probably wouldn't be that competitive. Although it might be kind of cool to have a baseline. I'd like to build a roller 347 w/5spd over the winter. We'll see how winter goes. Jim

So after installing front coil over’s and a Randall’s rack, my neighbor gave me a Monte Carlo bar. I “Installed†it only using one bolt and noticed that the other bolt holes didn’t line up. This has always annoyed me about these bars. Other things I do not like include: - - That the bar mounts to the fender apron. This isn’t the strongest area. It makes more sense to tie into the shock towers since they are structural and are what you are trying to prevent from flexing. - - You have to drill several holes in your fender aprons to make these work. - - The curve in the bar. It’s kind of amazing that they put this in these. It basically turns the bar into a big spring. After wedging the one I had in, you could see the bar bending forward. So after driving for a few months and trying to get the piece of crap rack (Sorry, I get annoyed about the rack since I was basically screwed by someone on this site on a “Never used†bargain) to work, I took out the suspension again and have been working with 69gmachine on a really simple rack system that looks like a winner (I will be doing a suspension/rack thread soon). Since I had the suspension apart, I figured I would make my own straight bar that would: - - Attach at the shock towers. - - Be adjustable. - - Quickly removable. So this is what I started with. You can’t really see it from this angle, but the bar is flexing big time toward the front. Apologies for the ugly engine compartment. That will change when I do the engine over and do some apron repairs. Note the TCP coil over shock plates under the export brace. They will be scrapped for some custom made ones. Here are my laser cut templates. It is quite nice having this tool. I could design a plate, cut it out of hardboard, and test fit it on the car in about 15 minutes. This allowed me to quickly make some adjustments to my design. The one on the left is a template for test fitting and the one on the right is my punch template to locate the pilot holes. ( I used the same techniques for the Shelby drop. (Also, If anyone ever needs a template cut out let me know. I have plenty of scrap material and like helping out). Drilling out the pilot holes. I skipped the cutting out of the plates. Since I don’t have my mill running yet, I had to make these with the band saw and finish with a grinder. Making the posts that will go through the ½†bore in the ball of the Heim joint. I could have just bolted this bar on, but I’m not a fan of having threads being used as a bearing surface. With the lathe, I was able to make a really nice tolerance fitting post. It also allowed me to make a shoulder that the Heim joint could rest on to allow the joint to have more clearance. Finished post with some knurl on the mating surface. Plate with Post pressed in. Welded back side of post to the plate. I’m new to welding so it’s ugly, but I feel I got good penetration and after grinding, it all looks good. Tapping the end caps that will go onto the end of the pipe. One will be right hand thread and the other left hand. This will allow the bar to act like turnbuckle. Finishing the taper on the end cap. Finished end cap. Here is the bar with the end caps. I was able to cut the bar on the lathe to keep the ends nice and flush. Here are a couple of pictures of it installed. I still have to put on the jam nuts. The bar barely clears the air cleaner. I will be switching to a 10†one anyway. I didn’t want to make the ear to long on the plate since it would start to create more of a moment arm on the plate causing it to want to rotate. The future plan is to make another plate that allows me to adjust the height of the shock mount by welding in a threaded ball joint holder. The shock would then mount to a cup that threads into the ball joint holder. Jim

Glad to here you had some well deserved success. My project is moving slower than I want but isn't that always the story? Jim

I agree with Jeep. I'm not a fan of the stripe. To much of a Burger King/Redskins look for me. Maybe if the second one had the darker stripe I would like that one. Phil69, If you are planning on keeping the car, I would paint it how you want. Enjoy the car for you not others in the future. I've kept cars stock colors and I've never gotten rich owning them. My two cents. Jim

Armond, Cool thanks. It's start and I will check mine to see how close it is. Jim

Hello All, Does anyone know what the spec for the distance between the shock towers should be and where it would be measured from? I'm making my own support bar and it will be like a turnbuckle so I can "dial" in the spread. I looked at the body section in the manual and it only shows the what the lower frame rails should measure. Thank, Jim

MustangGT, I sent you an e-mail. Thanks for you service. Jim

MustangGt, Yes, the spoiler is sitting in my shop in a box. I tried to sell it once but it fell through. I'd love to get rid of it. Although it goes against my "Don't put a wing on anything that's not a plane" mentality. Pak, Yes, I dislike them that much. Fastbacks have such great lines on their own and to me, it just looks like a quick add-on. This is just my opinion. One of these days I'm going to get around to doing a flow analysis of a fastback to show that the wing helps handling at the speeds we drive is just a myth. Just need to fing the time... Jim