MustangGT

Perfect timing on this post... I will be redoing my quarters when the frames come in next week (at least they are supposed to -- gotta love back order). What type of sealant did you use to attach the new seal and frame to the window? Also, what trick/technique did you use to remove the old frames from the window?

That would make for an interesting gauge -- you have any pics of your prototypes? My car will be coming back from paint shortly (new motor already installed) and I will be getting it on the road soon. I am willing to be your guinea pig.

Will your "kit" have other gauges to replace the fuel/temp? Or would those be sacrificed to install the tach?

Prayers -- where do the missing screws from my list go? If I had to guess I imagine it is the ones on the far left and they are the screws that hold in the adjusters - those screws for the adjusters aren't pictured in the breakdown. I even looked at the electric assembly manual and it isn't very clear. Also, which screws are which from my post (numbering them from left to right). I can tell the hex heads (pile #3) and I am guessing the longest screws are the 2" pan heads (pile #5).

I have looked at the pic of the assembly and was able to find 4 of the 5. According to the AMK guide: 382870-S = 2" Pan head Phillips 55947-S = 1" Oval trim head Phillips 375452-S = 1/2" Pan head Phillips 376386-S = 1/2" Hex head (self tapping) Hope this helps -- If you can spot the other screw I am missing in the pic let me know and I will look it up as well.

Hopefully a part of their resolution will be a price reduction. If not I would 'complain' loud enough to force the issue and get a price break -- then you could use that $$$ on your build.

This is a shameless plug (pun intended) for Randy at Midlife Harness Restorations. Just got my underdash harness back and it looks great! He kept me informed via E-mail on the progress and gave a detailed report of his findings/fixings. Well worth the money to have a pro give the harness the attention it needed since it was made 44+ years ago. If you have doubts/concern about your underdash harness -- Randy will erase them and give you a great looking harness too.

I also like the carbon face with blue backlight. Just want to see them installed. On a side note I E-mailed VHX directly to see if there is any chance of a price drop in the near future. They wrote back saying that since they are the manufacture they can't sell them any cheaper than MSRP of $795. So if I get them it will have to be from a re-seller.

They are shock tower reinforcements. There are several folks out there selling them. I got mine from Forrest at Sanco Specialties - he was very helpful and took the time to answer any of my questions. He even sent some photos to show how they install. Check out his website at: http://www.sancospecialties.com/mustang.htm

Since my car is still apart - I went out and looked at the buckets (built in Jan '69 at Dearborn) Mine are only marked L and H but the part numbers for all 4 match the Osborn description: Both marked L C8AB-47-A C8AB-37-A Both marked H C8OB-16-A C8OB-17-A

According to the Osborn Electrical Assembly Manual (page 3) ** For the "outside" headlight ** C8AB-13047-A (L.H) RING HEADLAMP ADJ. LOW BEAM (USED ON R.H. SIDE OF VEHICLE) C8AB-13037-A (R.H) RING HEADLAMP ADJ. LOW BEAM (USED ON L.H. SIDE OF VEHICLE) ** For the "inner" headlight ** C8OB-13116-A (R.H) RING HEADLAMP ADJ. HIGH BEAM C8OB-13117-A (L.H) RING HEADLAMP ADJ. HIGH BEAM Hopes this helps and doesn't add to the confusion.

That is odd. I had the E-bay auction bookmarked and looked at before I saw the E-mail from Amazon. Now when I goto the listing it says: "This listing was ended by the seller because the item is no longer available." Very odd.

Anyone have them installed in their car? Like the looks (saw them at one of the Hot Rod Power tour stops) but would like to see them in a car instead of some staged brochure pictures or display mock up.

I have been looking at that setup (Magnaflow 15816) as well -- saw your post and thought maybe that is a sign. Checked them out on E-bay saw the $499 price and thought that is a good deal. Then today I got a 25% off coupon from Amazon for any Magnaflow product -- couple of clicks later cost was $437. Should arrive next week.

IMHO -- if that is the worst of them. Grab a can of Rustoleum to stop any future spread of the Red Evil and be done with it. Mine were alot worse off.

Do you have any pics of the VHX gauges installed? I am on the fence about them and would like to see pics of them installed in a car vice the brochure pics.

I paid $40 to blast the front and back seat frames -- then about $20 in rattle can paint so $60 total. Worked like a champ and looks good.

+1 on previous comment. I had mine sandblasted and then I primed/painted them a nice looking semi gloss black. They looked awesome! Damn near brand new. Then I took them to the upholstery shop and he proceeded to hide all of the beauty -- unless someone is short enough to walk under my seats with a flashlight and lookup. :-)

The hood scoop is impressive -- it looks like it could eat a small child/chevy.

Anyone have their bumper off the car (or an old one laying around) and the bolts close by? I need to know the size of the bolts that hold it in. I picked up a new one for my rebuild - but the old one is lost somewhere in the garage along with the bolts. I bet I put it in a little baggy and "stored" it somewhere so I wouldn't lose it - so much for that plan. I am talking about the rubber bumper that bolts to the underside just above the rear end. It is held in with two bolts -- I tried several of my 'spares' bolts and no luck.

I think whether your car got straight or L shaped depends on what was laying around during assembly. I have seen cars with 1 of each and 2 L shaped. I don't think there was a set standard on what the line used. I asked a similar question at the Concours forum (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=5904.0) and the response I got [with pics] was that they should be the L shaped ones. The person that responded said their car was a NJ car and that the Dearborn and San Jose cars may be different. Hope this info helps.

I am looking to replace the front wheel bearings (disk brakes) as part of my rebuild. I have read the "books" and they reference using a drift or a Ford tool (T69L-1102-A) to remove the inner/outer bearing cups. Of course getting things out is easy -- grab a large enough hammer and with enough smacking they will come out (with or without the Ford tool). Putting new cups in is where I am stumped. The "books" mention using two "tools" (1217-J & 1217-K) to install the inner and outer bearing cups. I don't have those tools laying around and would rather not run to the machine shop - anyone have any hints/tips/tricks to getting the cups installed without trashing them? Or should I just suck it up and go to a machine shop and have them do it?

PM Sent on box.

Thanks! for the Pics. Helps alot. Anyone able to measure the shock mounts? I know the holes are approx 3-3/8" but I would like to know other dimensions. The local guy that has a set isn't sure what year the ones he has are. I don't want to end up with the wrong plates. I am leaning towards dropping the Cougar stuff and going back to the original Stang setup.

Buening - do you know if the shock mounting plates (Cougar/Mustang) are the same? Looking at pics I have found online I can't really tell if there is much difference. There is a local guy that has a set of Mustang ones but I won't be able to see them until this weekend. Shocks I should be good to go since I got Grab-A-Trak and the part numbers for Mustang/Cougars are the same.