MustangGT

Buening - which part of the harness does the glove box wire plug into?

The rivets are from the AMK interior kit - the bag is marked Qter Trim Panels - Body 63 (F-2140). I don't have my digital ATM but will post some tomorrow. Looking at video on line (with a '67) there are some rivets that hold the fiberglass panel on the frame that the trap door sits. Looking at the holes on the sides and top there is a spot for them. But like I said in the first post I am not sure.

I am putting in the panels getting ready to install the folddown and the AMK interior screw kit comes with 8 (or so) rivets - 2 different sizes. When I pulled the interior out there weren't any rivets. Anyone know where these go (pics of course would be welcomed)? I looked in the body manual but it references the interior trim assembly manual which isn't available for '69. Looking at the rear fiberglass pieces I have a rough idea but don't want to start popping rivets all over the place and then find out I guessed wrong. Rivets don't allow for do-overs.

Thanks RPM. Got them at ACE and master cylinder is installed. On a separate note there is a special place in hell for the engineer that cramed the front bowl line connection into the distro block. That thing is a pain in the butt to get connected/started. I ran out of cuss words trying to the line installed - I am glad I have a a neighbor with little hands and tons more patience than me.

I have misplaced the nuts that hold the master cylinder on the booster. Looked through the Osborn manual but it only shows the completed unit and doesn't break down the parts. Tried checking AMK but they list their part number (F-1475) and but no size information. Going to bench the master cylinder today and would like to get it installed as well. Figured I could pick up the nuts from my local hardware store - but need the size. Anyone know off hand?

Check out folddownseat.com - Sam did a great job showing the differences between the years and what pieces/parts go where and how to install the seat. RIP Sam - Semper Fi!

Wanting information on the wiring. I have the gauges and am in the middle (well maybe first quarter) of installing them. I see in the instructions that you need to wire the turn signal indicators and high beam indicator using the original dash harness. Trying to decide whether to cut the harness and splice in something or use one of those clamp type clips that will 'tie' the original wire with a small section to the VHX controller. If you have installed them -- what did you do? I really hate to cut up/splice my refurbished (thks to MidLife) underdash harness to connect up the panel and figure the 'vampire' type clamps are the lest intrusive thing I could do. Thoughts...

Struck out at Hobby Lobby and a few other craft stores in my area. I get a deer in the headlights look from the people at the store when I ask about sheets or pieces of rubber. Even had one lady tell me they had vinyl and it was "almost the same thing as rubber". I just said thank you and moved on. If nothing pops up soon I will go with cutting down a floor mat and sticking it on. No one will ever see - just would be nice to put something close to what was there instead of a piece of foam from 'China Freight'.

Glued down. Could see the old glue on mine but the rubber was long gone.

I am so, so, so close to putting the interior in the car and would like to replace the small rubber pad that is supposed to be on the underside of the panel when new. Attached is a pic of the piece I am looking for circled in red. I have search several places and I see that Sam over at folddownseat.com had some made by a company in Indiana but he doesn't list who did them. Anyone tried making their own out of "stuff" laying around the shop? I was thinking about cutting down one of the floor mats from 'China Freight' but if someone has a better suggestion I am open.

Just did this on all four bulbs in my car yesterday -- it is huge pain in the ***. But to answer your question the the 'hook' angles inboard - it us much easier to catch the ring that way. It took me a buddy to do it them all. Highbeams: Installed the bulb & connector and loosely screwed in the 2 screws on the ring. Hooked the spring to the rear attachment point and then used safety-wire and looped it around the spring and pulled it while he used a pair of needle nose to catch the steel ring. Low beams: Installed the bulb & connector and loosely screwed in the 2 screws on the ring. Hooked the spring to the ring then pulled from the back and had him place the hook on the attachment point in the back. Of course your splash shields have to be out to do this and having the wheel off will give you TONS more room.

Success!!! Thanks for the insight. I am so used to pulling pins on my Harley connectors that I didn't even think the pins would come out as easy as they did. On an HD you have to have your toes pointed toward Milwaukee, head pointed towards the setting sun, hands (plams up) and aimed at the rising sun, be thinking nothing but pure happy thoughts, stick your tongue out and lick the wind, use the proper tool and then cuss and swear and hope like hell you can get the little bugger to release. On the headlight light plug harness -- depress catch and pull pin -- SIMPLE. Thanks all.

Hopefully, this is an easy question... How do you remove the wires from the headlight harness plug (the big green monster on the firewall side)? I have pulled the plug out of the firewall and peeled back the rubber backing -- don't want to risk any damage doing experiments to get the wires out. So please point me in the right direction and stop me from doing more harm than good.

I had mine rebuilt by ChockOStang -- was fast and the box looks brand new.

I think this is the article: http://www.popularhotrodding.com/features/1307_1969_ford_mustang/viewall.html Very sweet looking car!!!:thumbup:

I hadn't actually thought about the problem with the 3 groove crank pulley. I have only roughly installed the A/C (new Classic Auto Air Bracket), power steering pump, alt and crank pulley. Didn't have water pump pulley connected. I just re-looked at it and I could run it with one belt but that empty pulley would look so bare -- I don't think I handle seeing it every time I lifted the hood. So I guess I will have to switch out to a single pulley. Just when I think I am done spending $$$ on the ol' girl she takes a little more out of my wallet. :cool2: Will look around for a used pulley although CJ has them for less than $30.

Went to the local auto parts store to replace my tired alternator; when looking it up in the system he gives me the option to get a little more amperage than the stock one. He said since the car had A/C it would better to run the higher amperage. He didn't have it in stock and had to order in. Well, went to pick it up and the alt came with a double pulley installed - my old one only had...you guessed it one. I couldn't do a pulley swap in the store since the PO had welded to the alt shaft. I have seen in the Osborn Engine Manual my 351 did come with a dual pulley (depending on options). So it isn't out of the ordinary. However, I am not sure about 2 belts on an alt in my compartment. Can I switch to a single pulley without affecting the performance of the alt or should I just suck it up and run 2 belts. Thoughts/opinion/suggestions welcomed...

The PIA (aka Pain in the Arse) with trying to chrome the balls is the small surface area to work worth. In my case the ends of the vent that used to be 'hidden' look good enough to show. So I just flipped my balls (no dirty comment needed) 180 degrees to show the best side.

I used this information to rebuild mine -- http://www.fastbackstack.com/blog/?tag=1969-1970-mustang-ac-dash-vent Hope this helps.

I think it depends on the angle of the sun, alignment of planets, and the disposition of the salesperson you talk to. I have tried with success sometimes and then failed others. Good for you to get it and good luck to the rest of us that try.

When I tore mine apart - there wasn't a spring. Took screws out of pad (from the back) to expose nut. Removed nut and then used 'normal' puller to yank it off.

$100 on the dash pad

Agree with SWPruett. Slap some epoxy down - no such thing as too much protection against rust. While the longer it sits the more of a pain it is to sand but the way I looked at it was if it was hard to sand then it will be equally as hard for water to get there and feed the rust gremlins.

Figured it out - the latch mechanism somehow got turned 180 degrees out of 'wack' - causing it only to unlock to the left. No clue how it happened - I even tried to duplicate it but couldn't. It now unlocks to the right. Now, it would have been nice if I would have figured out it was latch before I tore apart the lock cylinder. Now the cylinder is like Humpty Dumpty - I doubt all of the Kings men could put it back together again. I will be ordering a new lock but at least now I know exactly what the inside of the cylinder looks like. Thanks to all that responded.

Finally have the car home and starting to put things back together and the first thing I have tried to get working - the painter had trouble with it as well. I picked up a new Scott Drake lock kit with doors, ignition, and trunk. The problem I am having is that the trunk lock needs to turn to the left to open but the lock cylinder only turns to right. The lock is not stock - it is an electric release model (no idea what year since the PO put it in). What direction do you turn your trunk lock to unlock it? I wonder if I need a newer cylinder in order to fit my "newer" electric release model?