69volunteer

Also a fyi, a lot of people on ebay sell the center vent from a cougar of the same year and say mustang/cougar.. Not true, the cougar one will not fit it is larger.
 

There was a member on here that was trying to sell these. He sent me a set for free to try but I never heard where this ended up. They work great

agreed. Dimmer switches are notorious for being bad. I would try swapping that out first.
 
 

agreed. Dimmer switches are notorious for being bad. I would try swapping that out first.
 
 

Those don't look familiar but maybe mine were already on the car. I also have a fast back.
The Jim Osborne assembly manuals were the most helpful thing for me when putting things back together. The shop manual talks you through and describes the process, the assembly manuals are ALL pictures. Chassis and body manuals the most helpful, I used the engine one for layout of wiring and various hoses but you could probably do without that.

Not related but I saw this on bringatrailer.com. The comments to this listing are quite comical "...I don't think Ford made anything in 1979 that is worth this much money". The funny thing is the number of watchers on the ebay listing (myself included) to see if this thing sells.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Bronco-RANGER-XLT-/131870659709?forcerrptr=true&hash=item1eb41a947d:g:asAAAOSwtPZXHZdi&item=131870659709

I had a similar issue when I first re-wired my car. I used the AAW wiring harness but used multiple version of a re-production temp sender. They all said the car was running hot. Not pegged to H but close. I used my infrared gun and at multiple points on the engine was around 180.
I finally found a NOS temp sender on ebay and replaced. Gauge reads right in the middle.
 

I did this not long after I got the car back on the road. Called my old timer car buddy to drive across town to pick us up because the car wouldn't start. When he got there, he shoved it in park and started it right up. Felt like a dumb ass.

I have two blocks that were purchased as complete non running engines. They are both very oily and dirty. I spent the weekend completely tearing them down and have them down to the bare blocks. I would like to degrease/clean these at home and was wondering what the forums thoughts are:
 
I thought about putting them in a large plastic tub I have and spraying them with degreaser then power washing them. Compressed air dry and finish with a coat of oil or WD-40. One block I would like to keep and the other I plan to sell. The for sale block is a non Ford block.
 
Thoughts? The end goal is not to 'avoid' having them hot tanked at the machine shop but to prep for storage and prep for sale. When time to build, I will definitely have mine hot tanked.

I recently restored my original 2 spoke steering wheel. It was cracked around the rim in multiple places but other than that, in good shape. I used some epoxy putty pushed into the cracks after I dremel'd them out. Sanding was pretty rough and time consuming. I painted it yesterday with the same interior paint (scott drake) i used to paint my dash out of a rattle can. 
 
Should I clear it before installing? I dont have a HVLP setup yet so this is strictly rattle can.
 
I'll see if I can find some pics but it was VERY easy to do and turned out great. 

Some of you may remember but I posted some pics of my steering wheel restoration a while back. I am finally getting around to removing my Grant steering wheel and installing my 2 spoke.
 
http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php/topic/55590-steering-wheel-restore/?hl=%2Bsteering+%2Bwheel
 
Looking at the assembly diagram, I think I have everything together correctly however, there are three circular pieces on the back of the wheel that go together. One is the horn contact that has a long metal piece that goes up through the wheel and touches the horn bar, the other is a plastic piece (horn index ring) with three prongs and the third looks to be some type of retaining ring. 
 
I THINK I have these together correctly but if anyone has any pics, that would be helpful. Or if anyone has done this recently and remembers. The horn contact and the retaining ring have circular grooves for the two horn contacts in the turn signal assembly. Should these grooves be greased with dielectric grease?
 
 

lots of Texas folks here.
 
Bob--who wouldnt want to have 100 acres in hill country?

I recently restored my original 2 spoke steering wheel. It was cracked around the rim in multiple places but other than that, in good shape. I used some epoxy putty pushed into the cracks after I dremel'd them out. Sanding was pretty rough and time consuming. I painted it yesterday with the same interior paint (scott drake) i used to paint my dash out of a rattle can. 
 
Should I clear it before installing? I dont have a HVLP setup yet so this is strictly rattle can.
 
I'll see if I can find some pics but it was VERY easy to do and turned out great. 

I recently restored my original 2 spoke steering wheel. It was cracked around the rim in multiple places but other than that, in good shape. I used some epoxy putty pushed into the cracks after I dremel'd them out. Sanding was pretty rough and time consuming. I painted it yesterday with the same interior paint (scott drake) i used to paint my dash out of a rattle can. 
 
Should I clear it before installing? I dont have a HVLP setup yet so this is strictly rattle can.
 
I'll see if I can find some pics but it was VERY easy to do and turned out great. 

I am considering changing rear-ends in the Mustang as it doesn't have the get up and go I would have thought after building it. I am NOT looking to set record ETs at the local traffic light but I would like to smoke the tires every once in a while. The car is a neighborhood cruiser--I am trying to think of the last time the car has been on the highway greater than 60 mph.....I can only think of once and that was to avoid a service road that was backed up.
 
The car has a 302 with a 351 cam and GT40 heads (another discussion on the heads later). C4 auto with (if I remember correctly) an 8 inch 2.79 open diff.
 
I know asking what gears I should go with is like asking what is your favorite flavor of ice cream but, if I wanted to start sourcing parts, where should I start? My first inclination is a LSD somewhere in the 3.50-3.80 range. Can I keep my 8 inch and just swap out the gear set or will i need new axles as well? 
 
Open to all thoughts.

Some of you may remember but I posted some pics of my steering wheel restoration a while back. I am finally getting around to removing my Grant steering wheel and installing my 2 spoke.
 
http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php/topic/55590-steering-wheel-restore/?hl=%2Bsteering+%2Bwheel
 
Looking at the assembly diagram, I think I have everything together correctly however, there are three circular pieces on the back of the wheel that go together. One is the horn contact that has a long metal piece that goes up through the wheel and touches the horn bar, the other is a plastic piece (horn index ring) with three prongs and the third looks to be some type of retaining ring. 
 
I THINK I have these together correctly but if anyone has any pics, that would be helpful. Or if anyone has done this recently and remembers. The horn contact and the retaining ring have circular grooves for the two horn contacts in the turn signal assembly. Should these grooves be greased with dielectric grease?
 
 

This is not for a mustang but thought I would post here to get some other responses. What would be the benefit (if any) or detriment of going from a 3/4" bore wheel cylinder to a smaller 5/8" bore? Forgetting about bias and assuming that the front and rear are on two SEPARATE circuits.
 
Any reason someone would have done this? 
 
I have a vintage racer and stock on the rear is 3/4". Went to replace a seal over the weekend and noticed that they are 5/8. There is not much 'stock' on this car but I have the original 3/4" with all new seals and would rather just replace instead of search for a rebuild kit.

I am considering changing rear-ends in the Mustang as it doesn't have the get up and go I would have thought after building it. I am NOT looking to set record ETs at the local traffic light but I would like to smoke the tires every once in a while. The car is a neighborhood cruiser--I am trying to think of the last time the car has been on the highway greater than 60 mph.....I can only think of once and that was to avoid a service road that was backed up.
 
The car has a 302 with a 351 cam and GT40 heads (another discussion on the heads later). C4 auto with (if I remember correctly) an 8 inch 2.79 open diff.
 
I know asking what gears I should go with is like asking what is your favorite flavor of ice cream but, if I wanted to start sourcing parts, where should I start? My first inclination is a LSD somewhere in the 3.50-3.80 range. Can I keep my 8 inch and just swap out the gear set or will i need new axles as well? 
 
Open to all thoughts.

I am considering changing rear-ends in the Mustang as it doesn't have the get up and go I would have thought after building it. I am NOT looking to set record ETs at the local traffic light but I would like to smoke the tires every once in a while. The car is a neighborhood cruiser--I am trying to think of the last time the car has been on the highway greater than 60 mph.....I can only think of once and that was to avoid a service road that was backed up.
 
The car has a 302 with a 351 cam and GT40 heads (another discussion on the heads later). C4 auto with (if I remember correctly) an 8 inch 2.79 open diff.
 
I know asking what gears I should go with is like asking what is your favorite flavor of ice cream but, if I wanted to start sourcing parts, where should I start? My first inclination is a LSD somewhere in the 3.50-3.80 range. Can I keep my 8 inch and just swap out the gear set or will i need new axles as well? 
 
Open to all thoughts.

I am considering changing rear-ends in the Mustang as it doesn't have the get up and go I would have thought after building it. I am NOT looking to set record ETs at the local traffic light but I would like to smoke the tires every once in a while. The car is a neighborhood cruiser--I am trying to think of the last time the car has been on the highway greater than 60 mph.....I can only think of once and that was to avoid a service road that was backed up.
 
The car has a 302 with a 351 cam and GT40 heads (another discussion on the heads later). C4 auto with (if I remember correctly) an 8 inch 2.79 open diff.
 
I know asking what gears I should go with is like asking what is your favorite flavor of ice cream but, if I wanted to start sourcing parts, where should I start? My first inclination is a LSD somewhere in the 3.50-3.80 range. Can I keep my 8 inch and just swap out the gear set or will i need new axles as well? 
 
Open to all thoughts.

I am considering changing rear-ends in the Mustang as it doesn't have the get up and go I would have thought after building it. I am NOT looking to set record ETs at the local traffic light but I would like to smoke the tires every once in a while. The car is a neighborhood cruiser--I am trying to think of the last time the car has been on the highway greater than 60 mph.....I can only think of once and that was to avoid a service road that was backed up.
 
The car has a 302 with a 351 cam and GT40 heads (another discussion on the heads later). C4 auto with (if I remember correctly) an 8 inch 2.79 open diff.
 
I know asking what gears I should go with is like asking what is your favorite flavor of ice cream but, if I wanted to start sourcing parts, where should I start? My first inclination is a LSD somewhere in the 3.50-3.80 range. Can I keep my 8 inch and just swap out the gear set or will i need new axles as well? 
 
Open to all thoughts.

I am considering changing rear-ends in the Mustang as it doesn't have the get up and go I would have thought after building it. I am NOT looking to set record ETs at the local traffic light but I would like to smoke the tires every once in a while. The car is a neighborhood cruiser--I am trying to think of the last time the car has been on the highway greater than 60 mph.....I can only think of once and that was to avoid a service road that was backed up.
 
The car has a 302 with a 351 cam and GT40 heads (another discussion on the heads later). C4 auto with (if I remember correctly) an 8 inch 2.79 open diff.
 
I know asking what gears I should go with is like asking what is your favorite flavor of ice cream but, if I wanted to start sourcing parts, where should I start? My first inclination is a LSD somewhere in the 3.50-3.80 range. Can I keep my 8 inch and just swap out the gear set or will i need new axles as well? 
 
Open to all thoughts.

This is not for a mustang but thought I would post here to get some other responses. What would be the benefit (if any) or detriment of going from a 3/4" bore wheel cylinder to a smaller 5/8" bore? Forgetting about bias and assuming that the front and rear are on two SEPARATE circuits.
 
Any reason someone would have done this? 
 
I have a vintage racer and stock on the rear is 3/4". Went to replace a seal over the weekend and noticed that they are 5/8. There is not much 'stock' on this car but I have the original 3/4" with all new seals and would rather just replace instead of search for a rebuild kit.

This is not for a mustang but thought I would post here to get some other responses. What would be the benefit (if any) or detriment of going from a 3/4" bore wheel cylinder to a smaller 5/8" bore? Forgetting about bias and assuming that the front and rear are on two SEPARATE circuits.
 
Any reason someone would have done this? 
 
I have a vintage racer and stock on the rear is 3/4". Went to replace a seal over the weekend and noticed that they are 5/8. There is not much 'stock' on this car but I have the original 3/4" with all new seals and would rather just replace instead of search for a rebuild kit.

This is not for a mustang but thought I would post here to get some other responses. What would be the benefit (if any) or detriment of going from a 3/4" bore wheel cylinder to a smaller 5/8" bore? Forgetting about bias and assuming that the front and rear are on two SEPARATE circuits.
 
Any reason someone would have done this? 
 
I have a vintage racer and stock on the rear is 3/4". Went to replace a seal over the weekend and noticed that they are 5/8. There is not much 'stock' on this car but I have the original 3/4" with all new seals and would rather just replace instead of search for a rebuild kit.