69volunteer

It does get driven just sits for quite a while. I thought vacuum leak as well but didn’t find anything at first glance spraying carb cleaner. I’ll investigate this further before pulling the carb.

I have a fastback that I restored 10 years ago. Unfortunately it does not get driven often any more—I’m a terrible owner. I have made a list of a few upgrades and will be posting more often. I moved the car over to my shop 6 months ago and noticed that at idle it is surging. It will drop to 500 rpm and nearly stall to maybe 1100 (going off memory). I adjusted the idle to about 1100 where it stayed steady and then sprayed carb cleaner all around the intake and carb thinking it was a vacuum leak. No change to idle. Now I think it may be the carb— new Edelbrock back in 2013. Tried using non-ethanol gas but that went by the wayside a few years ago. EFI is possibly on my list of upgrades. I don’t mind rebuilding the carb so I can start fresh with the EFI conversion but want to eliminate any other issues first. C4 auto with Pertronix ignition upgrade. thoughts?

no resistor--running 12v directly to the coil. Again, I dont think it is the coil as I have 12v with my meter and key on. I ordered a new cap picking it up today....I think I am down to (a) bad cap or (b) the actual plug wire from the coil to the cap. When I got spark by plugging the plug wire directly into the coil, I was using the #8 spark plug wire and and not the coil wire. Since I made all of these plug wires from a MSD kit, possible I have a bad crimp on the coil wire. Of course it was running fine and then just died......so either (a) or (b) seems unlikely but......fingers crossed it is one of these two things. I am going to check that. I did swap rotors but still possible.

It is aftermarket (AAW) with a fuse block. Curious what that would signify? I did cut and make all the spark plug wires, one thing I did not check was the wire going from the rotor to the cap. That could have rattled loose or been a bad crimp. Add that to the list to inspect.

Got it. I have to think through that--if my issue is down stream (i.e. cap or rotor or points or ignition module) the coil is not discharging and could be damaged? I think my coil is good because I have run a plug wire directly to the coil and getting spark. It is somewhere between the coil and the spark plug. Which isnt much and I have replaced everything but the cap so I am hoping that my cap went bad.

Not sure I follow the middle part of that..."not used...." Meaning if the car sits for a long period of time? I replaced with another Flame Thrower II coil...didnt solve the issue. That is what made me think replace the ignition module. I have had issues with these in the past but have one that has been in another car for 10 years. I'm at a loss though. I guess my last resort is to go back to points and see what happens.

I have a freshly rebuilt motor and a completely re-wired car. After setting the timing, the motor started and ran fine several times—even took it down the street for a quick test drive. The next startup a few days later, the motor was idling fine for several minutes and then just died. It wont re-start. No spark. I have a pertronix ignition module, igniter 2 coil, all new cap, rotor, new wiring, new plugs, new plug wires. I have 12v at the coil with the key on. I have since replaced the coil and the ignition module as well as the rotor—I didn’t have a spare cap. If I plug the spark plug wire directly into the coil, I get spark. This has to be something simple—what am I missing? Could be the cap but…..how often do those fail. Possible to get a bad ignition module twice? I have the original points but need to track down a resistor and wire in-line. Any thoughts?

ahh...ok, got it. I was thinking they were the same. Thanks

I have posted here a few times regarding swapping the rear end out of my fastback. A friend gave me a brand new 3:55 Ford Performance R&P for an 8.8 inch rear end. He ordered it for a late model f150 and did not install. A quick search based on various part numbers looks like this will not work for me. What would have changed over the years? I know the length of axles changed for various applications but what internally would have changed?

Not sure Biden has control of my local jobbers PPG prices but maybe. It is crazy how expensive stuff is--i dropped $200 for a quart of deltron recently--everything is expensive. I have painted multiple items over the years but never a full car (dashes, hard tops, etc). The last job was to blend in a fender bender on a race car and it actually turned out pretty good but I used single stage. I would not recommend painting an entire car your first time out. Looking at the pics particularly the quarter panel, you have some adhesion issues. Most shops are going to want to go down to bare metal to warranty the job which is not going to be cheap. I am in Dallas and imagine Austin is the same, check around, there are guys out there who are good that are getting started with their own shop and are more reasonable. if you want to haul it to Dallas, i can give you a contact here that is very reasonable--i think he painted the first Model T. You can check out my car he painted 10 years ago.

I believe I used Wesco performance for mine and havent had an issue other than the following: (1) i should have ordered a longer extension at the floor where the belt snaps into, mine is to short and I have to squeeze my fingers between the center console and the seat to unbuckle--i guess this doesnt apply if you dont have a console (2) the locking mechanism is pretty sensitive if you pull the belt too quickly. I dont recall what drop down I ordered but I can snap some pics if you would like.

HMM....that is interesting. I like that idea. Doesnt that open a whole can of worms? Its been a long time since I dug into mine but I would want to replace axle bearings, gaskets, etc I would need to swap over all my new brake hardware More importantly, I thought there were different axle widths--or is that just 9" from later mustangs? I like the idea as I would get a $75/core charge refund on my center section but maybe I could make more selling as a complete axle? Not sure it is really worth it though.

thanks

Do you know who the guy is? I havent been to Pate in a while. I assume C list in Parts? Engine is 302 stock with a 351 cam. This is a sunday cruiser so I am not worried about the 8" being able to handle the power. I forgot about RPM calcs, that is a good idea. This is juvenile but considering that I rarely drive it on the highway I would opt for a lower gear. I know 9" is what everyone talks about but I really dont think it is necessary for me. Car was completely restored 8 years ago (wow, time flies) and gets driven a couple thousand miles a year (sad, I know). C4 was also rebuilt by a trans shop I use, I seem to remember a 2200 stall but could be making that up. Thanks for the replies. There is a DFW stang website plus FB and I will see if anyone recommends local rebuilder/seller.

I am finally to the point (not really as my other project is not done) of swapping out the rear of my 8" on my 302 with a C4. Current ratio is 2.79. I think I would go to a posi with 3:55 gears. 1-any thoughts on gear ratio, I RARELY get on the highway so top speed is 50-60 mph around town. however I don't want to be screaming at 3000 rpms on the rare occasion I do; but I would like to smoke the tires every once in a while. Is 3:73 too low? 2-prices on 3rd member units (and everything) have gone way up since I last looked; Ive seen some on EBAY but are these ready to bolt in or do I still need to set the pre load etc? 3-should i look to swap out the ring and pinion on my existing one (would probably have a shop do this); it wont have posi and will probably cost more, right? 4-i could post on FB to find some Ford shops that sell re-built 8" in Dallas (might be easier to go pick it up). 9" is not in the picture, I dont want to have to deal with all the other things that go along with that swap and I have a mild 302. Let me know everyone's thoughts.

I believe they reproduce the 2 spoke wheel. I have considered getting a new one as mine the horn contact mech in the wheel has gone out (or something else havent dug too far into it yet). I would advise against the Grant wheel. The wood rim looks cool but the horn mech is an issue.

That has been rebuilt too but glad you brought that up. Something to look into.

When I restored my car 8 years ago, the pump always gave me trouble. It would all of a sudden stop adding power at slow speeds and I would have to crank the heck out of the wheel or it would whine when making a 3 point turn. I have had it rebuilt twice by local shops. I recently drove my friends 65 falcon and it was like driving Ms. Daisy. Nice! Before I scrap this setup all together, what replacement pump should I look for? My thought is those would be reasonable to swap out and not have to completely change everything. I was thinking something other than Rockauto or Napa but maybe that is the way to go? Thanks!

Why wouldnt you just pull the coil plug? For those of you who have 4 spd cars rest assured that a large chunk (and getting bigger every day) cant drive a stick 'so I got that going for me'. Not to mention even more people wouldnt know how to open the hood (where is the hood release on the driver kick panel?). I agree that a little piece of mine is still needed and have had similar cars that have little switches between the coil and the distrib hidden somewhere under the dash.

keep us posted on your EFI setup. What version did you end up using?

I believe you discarded the AN fitting an bra I believe you discarded the AN and braided line and going with 'factory'. Barnett--i like those fittings. Do you have a source?

also interested in the EFI tank.....

Very nice! Where are you located?

I think if you farm the work out to a machine shop, the rebuilt heads will be MORE than the eddy heads.

I also have a manual brake pedal from a 69 auto sitting in a box.