JayEstes

well, here's a thought.  If you've got a good frame under there with the global west rails, and it's solid, maybe consider just going with it as is instead of trying to improve.  There is always more you can do to try to improve, but is it really needed?  A car guy generally needs a car that rolls, so what's the best path back to getting the car moving again?  I'm frequently stuck in this conundrum - maybe I'll keep her down another few months while I do all this other stuff...  time as taught me that I like the car drivable.  Now if you skip the frame improvement, you've got it on a beautiful lift, go thru and remove all the rust spots, clean the bottom, and I rattle-canned truckbed liner under there, and I really love how hard and protective that coating is on the bottom is now.  Put the stuff back in and get her rolling.  
A car in a constant state of improvement doesn't roll much.  Do good work everywhere you are working, and maybe fight the urge to improve things everywhere.  I sure have to.  My car rolls again (5 yrs it was down for restore!) it's not perfect, but damn I love hitting the streets with it more than having all these other things I need to do before I can drive it again....

well, here's a thought.  If you've got a good frame under there with the global west rails, and it's solid, maybe consider just going with it as is instead of trying to improve.  There is always more you can do to try to improve, but is it really needed?  A car guy generally needs a car that rolls, so what's the best path back to getting the car moving again?  I'm frequently stuck in this conundrum - maybe I'll keep her down another few months while I do all this other stuff...  time as taught me that I like the car drivable.  Now if you skip the frame improvement, you've got it on a beautiful lift, go thru and remove all the rust spots, clean the bottom, and I rattle-canned truckbed liner under there, and I really love how hard and protective that coating is on the bottom is now.  Put the stuff back in and get her rolling.  
A car in a constant state of improvement doesn't roll much.  Do good work everywhere you are working, and maybe fight the urge to improve things everywhere.  I sure have to.  My car rolls again (5 yrs it was down for restore!) it's not perfect, but damn I love hitting the streets with it more than having all these other things I need to do before I can drive it again....

OK, I am going to go throw a weird one at you.  Maybe your problem is related to mine, but probably not.  your problem is more likely a connection problem. However,  I had a similar radio cutting out problem with my retrosound, except mine would cut out when I revved the engine from low speed to high, but it only seemed to happen when the car was fresh out of the garage.  Also, if the car was brought back to dead idle, radio would play again -even fresh out of the garage. weird thing was, drive it a few miles, and this cut-out would go away.  
So, after me living with this for a long while, and pondering it, but not coming up with anything, a friend rides with me and sees this weird behavior and has a genius insight - he says "do you have an original voltage regulator?"  yes.  "well then, I think maybe your radio is seeing unacceptable voltages when the alternator is kicked in at higher RPMS.  The alternator kicks in much more often immediately after the car has started after it's been sitting in garage.  After you drive the car a bit, the battery gets charged up - so alternator not kicking in - and symptom stops.   Maybe you should try a new solid-state VR." 
Freaking genius insight.  Sure enough, a new solid state VR solved my radio cutting out problem completely.
Now, in your case, the radio cuts out at low speed - when another electrical system is engaged.  So perhaps the current draw of the blinker system causes the voltage the radio is getting to somehow change to a temporarily unacceptable amount.  Car equilibrates voltages are a few moments and radio comes back on.  At high RPMs voltage is sufficiently regulated to not cause a problem in the circuit.  Do you have an old-style VR with resistors on the back? is a good question to ask if you can't trace it to bad ground or bad connection.

Above image is what the back of my old VR looked like (I believe it is original with the car).  The new Solid State versions don't look like this.
Most likely, this is not your problem, but at least I stuck to the "radio cuts out" theme.  Hope this wasn't too much of a thread high-jack!
 
Jay

It could also be the float bowls gasket is leaking. I would clean up the mess real well first. Start the engine let it idle, so the carb is under pressure. See if you can detect any dripping, or seepage while engine running.  With engine off , leave overnight see if you can detect any wet spot next day.

i use a wireless type system 

I bought this one on RockAuto.com: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1140173&cc=1132399&jsn=12
Mainly because it said "Professional" & it was SHINY - just being honest....

Saturday morning came early last weekend.  Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise.  A few pics for anyone interested.
The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall.
Beach pictures taken down on East Beach.  They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made.
Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress...
Jay






 




 

I bought this one on RockAuto.com: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1140173&cc=1132399&jsn=12
Mainly because it said "Professional" & it was SHINY - just being honest....

It could also be a bulb issue?  Try to replace one bulb at time see if you can isolate the problem. Sometime the contact in the socket oxidized and cause mild shortage, clean contact area with dielectric grease.  Last solution, get a voltage reading on the bulb, and radio terminal 

I didn't want to confuse that with what we had in Oregon: Hail Henry, referring to Henry Weinhard's beer.

Yeah, but we all expect you to throw a zinger in there just to make us grin. You're way below on the zinger quotient.

Saturday morning came early last weekend.  Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise.  A few pics for anyone interested.
The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall.
Beach pictures taken down on East Beach.  They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made.
Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress...
Jay






 




 

I would make mine slightly shorter. 1/4" Still takes load from the shock.  A little easier to get in.  But add the tab as shown.  The original Ford drawing doesn't have that.  
 

OK, I am going to go throw a weird one at you.  Maybe your problem is related to mine, but probably not.  your problem is more likely a connection problem. However,  I had a similar radio cutting out problem with my retrosound, except mine would cut out when I revved the engine from low speed to high, but it only seemed to happen when the car was fresh out of the garage.  Also, if the car was brought back to dead idle, radio would play again -even fresh out of the garage. weird thing was, drive it a few miles, and this cut-out would go away.  
So, after me living with this for a long while, and pondering it, but not coming up with anything, a friend rides with me and sees this weird behavior and has a genius insight - he says "do you have an original voltage regulator?"  yes.  "well then, I think maybe your radio is seeing unacceptable voltages when the alternator is kicked in at higher RPMS.  The alternator kicks in much more often immediately after the car has started after it's been sitting in garage.  After you drive the car a bit, the battery gets charged up - so alternator not kicking in - and symptom stops.   Maybe you should try a new solid-state VR." 
Freaking genius insight.  Sure enough, a new solid state VR solved my radio cutting out problem completely.
Now, in your case, the radio cuts out at low speed - when another electrical system is engaged.  So perhaps the current draw of the blinker system causes the voltage the radio is getting to somehow change to a temporarily unacceptable amount.  Car equilibrates voltages are a few moments and radio comes back on.  At high RPMs voltage is sufficiently regulated to not cause a problem in the circuit.  Do you have an old-style VR with resistors on the back? is a good question to ask if you can't trace it to bad ground or bad connection.

Above image is what the back of my old VR looked like (I believe it is original with the car).  The new Solid State versions don't look like this.
Most likely, this is not your problem, but at least I stuck to the "radio cuts out" theme.  Hope this wasn't too much of a thread high-jack!
 
Jay

Bah.  I simply remove the gas tank and carry it with me when I go into the store. 
If someone wants to use a wrecker to haul the car off, nothing can stop that (with the exception of a metal device that spits out metal or a trunk monkey).

As the Gull is checking out that nice shinny ride, It is trying to figure out where to place a huge dump on it.

Outstanding pics and ride. 

Great pics, Jay. Beautiful coupe too!!!

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.
Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.
I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.
Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.
 
 

Saturday morning came early last weekend.  Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise.  A few pics for anyone interested.
The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall.
Beach pictures taken down on East Beach.  They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made.
Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress...
Jay






 




 

Saturday morning came early last weekend.  Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise.  A few pics for anyone interested.
The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall.
Beach pictures taken down on East Beach.  They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made.
Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress...
Jay






 




 

Suggestions ?   Shelby/Arning drop and tire/wheel size are two variables that affect length.  A field measurement from your car would give you a better approximation ?  Upper control arm mounting saddle and the distance to the frame rail mounting area would give you a better idea of over all length.  Brian

Sure, straight out of the 69 Shop Manual.  The one with the added tang, at the lower end, is for the LEFT/DRIVERS  side.  It is needed to avoid crushing the fuel line.  Brian

Yes I use them.  I agree they are a bit of a pain to get positioned.  I do feel using them is saving wear and tear on my suspension parts.  So worth the extra effort.  Brian

https://shop.mustangstofear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_42_194
This is what we use for the stock suspension.