JayEstes

I didn't want to confuse that with what we had in Oregon: Hail Henry, referring to Henry Weinhard's beer.

Yeah, but we all expect you to throw a zinger in there just to make us grin. You're way below on the zinger quotient.

Saturday morning came early last weekend.  Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise.  A few pics for anyone interested.
The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall.
Beach pictures taken down on East Beach.  They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made.
Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress...
Jay






 




 

I would make mine slightly shorter. 1/4" Still takes load from the shock.  A little easier to get in.  But add the tab as shown.  The original Ford drawing doesn't have that.  
 

OK, I am going to go throw a weird one at you.  Maybe your problem is related to mine, but probably not.  your problem is more likely a connection problem. However,  I had a similar radio cutting out problem with my retrosound, except mine would cut out when I revved the engine from low speed to high, but it only seemed to happen when the car was fresh out of the garage.  Also, if the car was brought back to dead idle, radio would play again -even fresh out of the garage. weird thing was, drive it a few miles, and this cut-out would go away.  
So, after me living with this for a long while, and pondering it, but not coming up with anything, a friend rides with me and sees this weird behavior and has a genius insight - he says "do you have an original voltage regulator?"  yes.  "well then, I think maybe your radio is seeing unacceptable voltages when the alternator is kicked in at higher RPMS.  The alternator kicks in much more often immediately after the car has started after it's been sitting in garage.  After you drive the car a bit, the battery gets charged up - so alternator not kicking in - and symptom stops.   Maybe you should try a new solid-state VR." 
Freaking genius insight.  Sure enough, a new solid state VR solved my radio cutting out problem completely.
Now, in your case, the radio cuts out at low speed - when another electrical system is engaged.  So perhaps the current draw of the blinker system causes the voltage the radio is getting to somehow change to a temporarily unacceptable amount.  Car equilibrates voltages are a few moments and radio comes back on.  At high RPMs voltage is sufficiently regulated to not cause a problem in the circuit.  Do you have an old-style VR with resistors on the back? is a good question to ask if you can't trace it to bad ground or bad connection.

Above image is what the back of my old VR looked like (I believe it is original with the car).  The new Solid State versions don't look like this.
Most likely, this is not your problem, but at least I stuck to the "radio cuts out" theme.  Hope this wasn't too much of a thread high-jack!
 
Jay

Bah.  I simply remove the gas tank and carry it with me when I go into the store. 
If someone wants to use a wrecker to haul the car off, nothing can stop that (with the exception of a metal device that spits out metal or a trunk monkey).

As the Gull is checking out that nice shinny ride, It is trying to figure out where to place a huge dump on it.

Outstanding pics and ride. 

Great pics, Jay. Beautiful coupe too!!!

So after 5 years of not having a running engine in my Mustang we finally got the new one going. Life get's in the way and before you know it time has flown by.
Of course it didn't just fire right up with no problems though. 1st we had a bad coil which took a few hours to figure out. Then we had the firing order screwed up. It has a Trick Flow Stage 1 cam which complicated the matter. It would run on the Trick Flow and stock firing order, but was backfiring pretty bad. Took my son and I a day to figure out that the firing order goes counterclockwise, not clockwise, duh! It's actually my fault, but in my defense it's been 40 years since I even thought about a firing order, lol.
I still have some wiring to clean up and a whole lot of body work to go, but it's a huge step for me and has me motivated to get it done.
Thanks to the forum and especially Mach1 Driver for his awesome wiring diagram.
 
 

Saturday morning came early last weekend.  Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise.  A few pics for anyone interested.
The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall.
Beach pictures taken down on East Beach.  They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made.
Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress...
Jay






 




 

Saturday morning came early last weekend.  Got the old girl down the beach for a decent sunrise.  A few pics for anyone interested.
The big old hotel in a couple of the pics is Hotel Galvez' on the seawall.
Beach pictures taken down on East Beach.  They put too many poles up down there, making donuts a bit dangerous - but you know a few got made.
Was a nice quiet morning out with the mistress...
Jay






 




 

Suggestions ?   Shelby/Arning drop and tire/wheel size are two variables that affect length.  A field measurement from your car would give you a better approximation ?  Upper control arm mounting saddle and the distance to the frame rail mounting area would give you a better idea of over all length.  Brian

Sure, straight out of the 69 Shop Manual.  The one with the added tang, at the lower end, is for the LEFT/DRIVERS  side.  It is needed to avoid crushing the fuel line.  Brian

Yes I use them.  I agree they are a bit of a pain to get positioned.  I do feel using them is saving wear and tear on my suspension parts.  So worth the extra effort.  Brian

https://shop.mustangstofear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_42_194
This is what we use for the stock suspension. 

parkerizing will leave it a dark color and it can still rust.
 
the high temp cast iron paint you brush on then bake is one of the better deals.
 

Jay, just a reminder; don't forget to disassemble the MC before powder coat as the rubber seals inside might get damaged when they bake it.
When I put in a new MC last year, I used one of those spray can paints that is supposed to resist the brake fluid, kind you have to bake after applying. It is silver in color and I disassembled it and baked it in the kitchen owen (while wife was at home). It has some discoloring now where brake fluid touched but it is in decent shape after 1 year.

This is a really good question - I hope people have some good answers for you.  I am facing the same problem with trying to maintain a cast look on the master cylinder, but nothing I coat it with can take the brake fluid it inevitably winds up seeing.  I thought I had a really good solution by using clear 2 part epoxy (the shiny coat over epoxy floors) - but even this material in continual contact with brake fluid breaks down and comes off.  I cleaned/stripped/derusted both the booster and the MC, and they looked pretty good going back in - and the booster has held up since little to no brake fluid gets on it - but the MC looks like hell already.  Here is what they looked like BEFORE going back in:
I am ready to take the MC out and go get it powder-coated since I can't think of any other way to treat the MC that can hold up.  I'll be looking forward to the replies you get.
I'm only sending because I think in areas where there isn't a huge amount of heat NOR brake fluid the 2 part epoxy can work.


 
 
 
 

If you get the harness re-work done by Midlife, you get a nice wirelist that tells you where every color goes!  Its a deal man!  I swear he's not paying me for this...

I used a Dynomat style sound deadener/heat barrier as the others mentioned
In other areas of the car I have used the heating duct insulation that Danno mentioned.  It is cheap compared to the Dynomat.  You can get it a Lowes or Home Depot.
 
 
zi used 

Oh the irony of having an engine so big that you can't put in good brakes!.....  Good luck - without the extra pressure created by the booster, you're going to need an entirely different kind of MC.  Not sure I have seen one, but there must be one out here somewhere.

That darn Global warming  LOL.

Notwithstanding wether it's a hoax, I wouldn't trust Snopes to drive my shivy. If I owned a shivy.

That would be my wife, Michele :)