JayEstes

okay one caution - maybe the other guys didn't have the problem I did, but I ground off the rivets (which are steel I believe) - no problem.  then I cleaned and prepped everything and put in the velcro - no problem.  However, the housings that the rivets were inserted into are pot metal (very soft) much softer than the steel rivets.  So when I went to drill them out and tap for new screws, my drill slid off the center of the steel rivet and went down into the soft pot-metal.  This caused them to be misaligned a little, and it was less than satisfying (thats what she said).
perhaps if I had drilled out the rivets all the way down instead of grinding initially, everything woulda been groovy.  Anyway - don't just grind off the heads - drill out the steel rivets while you can - right up front of the activity.

What fun is that?

We will have a 2021 MTF calendar,  soryy no girls included  LOL.

It's not over yet, God's still in control. 

here is my vert..nothing on the side.. a little  narrower and tighter than the 70.
I do think the scoop helps a lot.

how about 428 style on the hood.. and boss type down the side... did this a few years ago

Ya know, that just makes all us original floor guys jealous... Could you try to be less obvious about how much better that is?  Really, it's not making my life any better... ;-)  I busted my ass to get my half-ass, sort of ok, patchy-weldy floor into the "acceptable" range.

dont feel bad, for my convertible i had to do it in pieces after making a jig.  

Ya know, that just makes all us original floor guys jealous... Could you try to be less obvious about how much better that is?  Really, it's not making my life any better... ;-)  I busted my ass to get my half-ass, sort of ok, patchy-weldy floor into the "acceptable" range.

i have more if you need them

How about running a wire from under S terminal to inside, and an other wire from battery + to inside. Connect a switch to the ends of the wires. Turn the key to start, if starter does not engage, do not let the key off but press the switch you just rigged up. If the engine turns over, the battery, starter and selonoid are fine.

Going from my old memory, you can undo the NSS connector at firewall and put a jumper on firewall side of the connector to bypass NSS. There are 4 wires on that connector, 2 for NSS, 2 for reverse. Can't remember the wire colors for NSS that needs to be jumped on firewall side of connector. Also, I have opened and cleaned the original ignition switches of my 69 and 70s before and used them with success.

That's correct.
Did you say everything works fine when you attach jumper cables to your battery?  Did you try simply jiggling the battery cables and battery cable connections?  Could be coincidence I guess and still a bad ignition switch.

If you don't have ACC in any key position, then definitely the ignition switch is bad, or...you also don't have BATT power! 
ACC comes from the ignition switch.

Start with the simple stuff first.  As stated you haven't jumped the starter yet.  I would check the starter connection first, then put a test light on it , starter post and cable end, and then try the jumpers direct from the battery.  remember safety first. Brian

Will it will not crank, since it has headlights and dome lights, but no radio or heater fan, maybe the ignition switch.  When it will not crank, I'd first double check for power at the S terminal on the starter relay while the key is in the crank position.  If it's the ignition switch, there should be no power at that terminal while the key is in the crank position.
I've seen a bad battery cable cause similar intermittent issues.  But in those instances nothing worked including headlights.

I agree that it is most likely the ignition switch.  The ignition switch is indicated to be bad with low voltage at the S plug and NSS properly aligned.  However, you shouldn't be hearing a click at all with very low voltage at that plug unless you have a massive voltage drop to the starter from solenoid to starter or low battery voltage.
That's somewhat ambiguous wording, at least to me.
The fact that you lose radio and other ACC accessories is expected, as power to that circuit is dropped when the key is in the CRANK position.

Thanks just figured it out haha. Had to set some pliers on the collar and tap the cable into the hole. Tight fit. Then I pushed the plastic clip to one side and sure enough it fell right into place. I chucked the cable into my drill and slowly turned it to see if it works. This cable is cut in two and I was just getting ready for the new one I ordered. 
 
Thanks again

Casey,  what's your wife's name  ? We have a very powerful prayer group.

Terry, my factory AC cars have water valve on heater hose, non-AC cars do not and coolant always circulate through heater core.

Always has for me; there is a water valve to turn off (reduce) flow through the heater core when it is off.

I like the water line going past the choke.  Does that heat up the choke if the car is hot but has been sitting?  

Yep my 351w 2V is just like JayEstes above ^^
 
Only his is clean and shiny.

danno, Mach 1 Driver, and of course Midlife got it right!  It was the contacts in the fuse block.  To me they looked clean, didnt appear to have rust.  But I used wet/dry paper on all contacts plus used dielectric grease.  Problem gone.  Just took it for a nice ride.  NO cut out with turn signals or with the reverse lights.  
Thank you guys!  Makes the cruise that much better!
And  its still Candy Apple Red!

And that back-end hop (or rear-end shift?).... idk, but it could be a mustang feature.  Best thing I did was put KYB gas-adjust shocks in all the way around.  I haven't felt back-end hop much since then - except on wash-board-y dirt roads.  Anyway, best of luck.  These cars have next to no weight on the ass-end, and so they always feel kinda light and shifty back-there on less than perfect roads.  Hope you get her rolling under you soon.  Projects that sit are the most depressing thing.  LOL.  BTW another good stabilizer feature was a 1in stabilizer bar up front.  It dramatically reduced body-roll, which may help on back-end feel.  Another approach is throw a few bags feed or sack concrete in the back - a little weight goes a long way. haha