JayEstes

Dont know what size you need. found this on Amazon for $2.52  search- Dorman 61106 drain cock

I cut a plastic water or soda bottle like a funnel, drill 2 holes and tie a wire then attach it to the drain and direct the end of make shift funnel to a bucket or catch pan.

This style petcock that I've got on my radiator allows you to slip a piece of hose over it ... if you can find this style somewhere.
 
 

Just pm me your address and I’ll send it to you. To me it’s about helping someone out and getting another Stang completed

Swapped out the old radiator and crappy fan with a complete kit from West Coast Classic Cougar.  The kit includes a new 3 core 24” big block radiator, fan shroud, big block fan with clutch, and all the mounting hardware.  The swap was easy and fit was great.
Cooling System Upgrade Kit

I had installed small speakers inside the kick panel vents which still let me use the vents when needed. The small speakers did not sound decent so I decided to increase the speaker size while keeping them functional. So I modified the vents to mount pod I manufactured  which holds 5.25" speakers. Now I have bigger speakers and vent is still functional (it does not open all the way, just about half way now).



 



While I was covered in resin, I decided to make a pod that replaces the whole vent and let me mount up to 7" diameter speaker on my 1970 vert. You remove your vent, install this pod which acts like a cabin for your speaker).  One for right side, one for left side (which are mirror images of each other).

Then decided to see why the clock on the vert was not working; opened it up and found a gear had broken spindle.  Does anybody have any old clock mechanism that I can use parts from, may someone who converted to quartz etc?

While I was working on the vert, I decided to polish the windshield trim.  the one on right is polished, the one on left not yet.

As you all know one think leads to another, so while I was at it I decided to take the vert apart and restore it while changing the color back to it's original competition yellow. Looks like it is going to need some (maybe a lot more than some) rust repair/metal replacements. I will be changing it a little bit, will use modern cloth top with glass, will change the upholstery and door panel designs to vinyl/cloth and make them resemble 1980s Recaros.

 
 

I have not really measured the distance and I only drove around the block, it is very bright compared to my Scott Drake halogens. However I did take pictures of the high and low beams are the attached photos below.
someone on VMF created a thread about LED/Halos and I posted them there, Dapper lighting shared some insight that my setup had to much glare due and their kit was far superior. you can view that discussion here: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/led-headlights-with-halos.1185055/page-2
I just felt their kits wasn't worth the $300-400 and he danced around some questions, so I didn't like their design. Almost all headlights will show some glare, but overall Im happy with my purchase.
 
 
 
 

The nut behind the steering wheel?  Tee hee.
 
Thanks for the kind words.

After carefully scraping off the loose stuff, I put my DynaMat right over that stuff.

I've been trying to diagnose an erratic voltage gauge for a few weeks that would fluctuate between 9 and ~14v. When I had the battery and alternator checked they passed with flying colors. So I bought a new gauge, and experienced the same issues. Figured it had to be electrical, and probably a bad ground so I checked and found they were good. I also checked the 12v source to the gauge as far as I could.
At 65 with a bad neck, back, eyes, and certainly attitude I was ready to give up. Then I membered I had Randy's number and maybe ought to call him. After a couple of questions he nailed it. Since I looove to crawl under the dash, I had reached under the dash to snap a pic of the fuse box, but didn't look closely at the pic. While troubleshooting with Randy he mentioned the accessory post on the fuse box. I looked at the pic, oops...a loose terminal on the stud. Erectricity 101.
Thanks MidLife.

In the center console cup holders, of course!  Oh, and under the seat when the car with the flashing blue lights follows you.

DP90 followed up with Monstaliner rolled on Dark Gray

U-Pol Raptor bedliner.

Here are the photos with the new LED Headlights.

Converted my headlights to LED, The lens housing are crystal clear (not bad looking) for a good price too. $199.00 best conversation imo, really bright at night!
if you want the OEM look I recommend buying these: https://www.octanelighting.com/5-3-4-stock-glass-metal-headlight-18-24w-6k-led-h4-lamp-light-bulb-headlamp-set.html

 

 

Grande' badge is the switch ... nice & clever !!
 
Doug

08 GT500 that I've KR cloned.  12k miles, FP TVS swapped, FR twin 65 TB, 3:73 gears.  My rocket ship.     

When I did my rebuild, I pulled out all carpet, seats, belts - everything I could unbolt.  After vacuuming and just cleaning it with usual stuff, I didn't have a lot of rust to deal with.  But there was a lot of seam sealer (which is like a semi-hardened tar that has body paint on most of it) around.  I didn't want to sand everything off and besides, a lot of the paint was in decent shape - why remove it?
So what I did was the following: I got a 1in putty knife, some really tough PVC gloves, some scotchbrite pads, and a 5 gallon bucket of "clean-up thinner" (Laquer Thinner) from a local paint supply store.  After getting dirt off and isolating areas of rust, I used the putty knife to remove most of the seam sealer (60-70%% of which was either flaking off, or sticking to things it shouldn't be). Then, I used the scotchbrite dipped in a small bowl of thinner, to clean areas where the sealer had been removed and clean and rough up the painted areas.  Laquer thinner will remove the paint if allowed to stay on there very long, so I used it lightly, and would clean the surface, and rough it up with the scotchbrite, and immediately wipe it off with a rag so it didn't wrinkle the remaining paint/primer.  This left a really clean, primer ready surface.  This worked great for getting the remaining seam sealer off, and it got the paint prepped to receive primer over the top, leaving the good original paint/primer in place.  The use of a scotchbrite pad soaked in laquer thinner is the most effective cleaner I have ever seen, it cuts thru everything (oil/ grease, dirt grime, paint).  It is pure hell on gloves and hands, so get a couple pair of gloves as even a pair of PVC gloves will harden after several sessions of use. Obvious caveats go with this process for respirators and fans.  Laquer thinner is a strong chemical.
After that, I just resealed the seams with orderly beads of paintable silicon caulk, and then I used rattle can automotive primer over everything.  Making damn sure not to paint over anything resembling rust or its semi-hidden effects.  I always ground any of that down and put the primer on bare metal once rust was gone.  
I put on at least 2 coats of primer everywhere, then put down dyna-mat for sound deadening everywhere.  This was a fairly long process,  but a lot better than trying to remove everything (remember, in my case most of the floor was in good shape).  The floor looked great after this, and I think it was a nice medium restore option that left good parts of the car in place, but re-did everything else as best I could.   Trying to remove everything with anything less than a full-body dip is a ton more work than it is worth.
Hope this addresses your question, and you find some of these tips helpful.  It wasn't super fast, but I was really happy with the results, and I felt like the effort was focused where it was needed.

Front, without touching rivets. Control ball has to be turned as if to stop flow

When I did my rebuild, I pulled out all carpet, seats, belts - everything I could unbolt.  After vacuuming and just cleaning it with usual stuff, I didn't have a lot of rust to deal with.  But there was a lot of seam sealer (which is like a semi-hardened tar that has body paint on most of it) around.  I didn't want to sand everything off and besides, a lot of the paint was in decent shape - why remove it?
So what I did was the following: I got a 1in putty knife, some really tough PVC gloves, some scotchbrite pads, and a 5 gallon bucket of "clean-up thinner" (Laquer Thinner) from a local paint supply store.  After getting dirt off and isolating areas of rust, I used the putty knife to remove most of the seam sealer (60-70%% of which was either flaking off, or sticking to things it shouldn't be). Then, I used the scotchbrite dipped in a small bowl of thinner, to clean areas where the sealer had been removed and clean and rough up the painted areas.  Laquer thinner will remove the paint if allowed to stay on there very long, so I used it lightly, and would clean the surface, and rough it up with the scotchbrite, and immediately wipe it off with a rag so it didn't wrinkle the remaining paint/primer.  This left a really clean, primer ready surface.  This worked great for getting the remaining seam sealer off, and it got the paint prepped to receive primer over the top, leaving the good original paint/primer in place.  The use of a scotchbrite pad soaked in laquer thinner is the most effective cleaner I have ever seen, it cuts thru everything (oil/ grease, dirt grime, paint).  It is pure hell on gloves and hands, so get a couple pair of gloves as even a pair of PVC gloves will harden after several sessions of use. Obvious caveats go with this process for respirators and fans.  Laquer thinner is a strong chemical.
After that, I just resealed the seams with orderly beads of paintable silicon caulk, and then I used rattle can automotive primer over everything.  Making damn sure not to paint over anything resembling rust or its semi-hidden effects.  I always ground any of that down and put the primer on bare metal once rust was gone.  
I put on at least 2 coats of primer everywhere, then put down dyna-mat for sound deadening everywhere.  This was a fairly long process,  but a lot better than trying to remove everything (remember, in my case most of the floor was in good shape).  The floor looked great after this, and I think it was a nice medium restore option that left good parts of the car in place, but re-did everything else as best I could.   Trying to remove everything with anything less than a full-body dip is a ton more work than it is worth.
Hope this addresses your question, and you find some of these tips helpful.  It wasn't super fast, but I was really happy with the results, and I felt like the effort was focused where it was needed.

My hi-fi sound system needed some attention as the sound was scratchy when turning the volume up or down and the cassette player was not reading. So I opened it up to clean the volume potentiometer and see what was wrong with the cassette not reading. Looks like the tape head is burned out and I do not have a head to replace it with so I improvised and added auxiliary input and bluetooth to it. 3 way switch that switches between the radio/cassette (if/when I find a head to replace), Aux input and bluetooth. 1st picture is radio/cassette mode and 2nd picture is bluetooth mode; the switch is hidden in plain sight on these pictures, let's see who is going to find it first. 3rd picture are the parts I used.

Finally pulled out the original I6 250  a day ago and I just ordered some convertible inner rockers with the convertible seat pan. 
I have a lot of support and motivation from my family to get this project done so Its all im focused on right now

She’s back home today. New steering rack, not perfect but much better. 5 speed trans,. Louder, cooler exhaust rumble.
still have to get stereo working & clutch pedal sticks on bottom

Everyone is out buying assault weapons  :)

okay one caution - maybe the other guys didn't have the problem I did, but I ground off the rivets (which are steel I believe) - no problem.  then I cleaned and prepped everything and put in the velcro - no problem.  However, the housings that the rivets were inserted into are pot metal (very soft) much softer than the steel rivets.  So when I went to drill them out and tap for new screws, my drill slid off the center of the steel rivet and went down into the soft pot-metal.  This caused them to be misaligned a little, and it was less than satisfying (thats what she said).
perhaps if I had drilled out the rivets all the way down instead of grinding initially, everything woulda been groovy.  Anyway - don't just grind off the heads - drill out the steel rivets while you can - right up front of the activity.