JayEstes

Well done.
I have had the bulbs go bad on the hi beam, but never thought the lens could be so old and dirty it would block the light - thanks for posting that.
 
The plastic of the lens bezels can be re-chromed, but the cost is high and there are paint options that look good.  I like the satin Argent silver on the bezels.  There is much taping and masking in your future, but it gives a really nice look to the whole cluster when done right.
Three light coats 15 minutes apart will give a silky smooth, appealing finish.

Not trying to defend Laurel Mountain here as I would think they would make a better effort to satisfy the customer BUT,............. most places post their return policy and as consumers we need to pay close attention to this. Laurel Mountain has a clear and specific return policy. I bring this point up because as consumers, we tend to neglect the "fine print" and often assume vendors will always do what we perceive is the "right thing". 
 
You don't mention how long after you received this item before you contacted them with the issue. Again, I'm not defending LM as I can truly feel your pain. I have a habit of buying parts I need due to sales, promotions and so forth but never get around to using or installing them till 6 months later. Makes it hard for me to go back and get it corrected and I usually kick myself for not inspecting things when they arrive.
 
On a separate note, Have you ever bought a TV from Best Buy and then try to take it back a month later without the box? You pretty much get nowhere.

I will say that if you can farm out some projects then that will definitely help things. I re-did my back seat and it turned out ok but I farmed out the front seats. Headliner I didn't even try. I've built engines before but mine was a mild build and so I farmed it out to a shop that does rebuilds. C-4 trans I didn't touch.
 
It still took me 2.5 years from start to finish and I still have little things to get done. If you can get it on the road, the happier you will be but it takes patience. Good luck.

I'm the opposite.  I do as much as I can.  To date, the only mechanical work I farm out is auto transmission rebuilding, tire installation, and engine machining work (not assembly).  I was technician, mostly at a GM dealership and a little at an independent shop for 8 years before I decided to go to college for Mechanical Engineering.  There are some good technicians.  I don't want to offend the good technicians out there.  But most of the time, the person you are paying to work on your car knows less about it than you do.  They certainly care less about it than you do and have very little understanding that for most people, paying for auto repairs is a big expense.  In my opinion, you are usually throwing your money down the toilet.

my fit was sub par but easily fixed as illustrated in the photos of the following link. repoped quarters, tail light panel, and rear valance were surely contributors.
 
however, looking at supposedly original cars reveals awful fit in this area.
 
http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh270/buckeyedemon/69%20Mustang%20Mach%201/rear%20valance/?albumview=slideshow

I didn't use any sealer on the threads. The pneumatic bleeder from harbor freight worked really well (especially for $25). The rubber fitting fit pretty snug over the zert. I locked it on and stood by the master cylinder refilling it when it got 3/4 down. I ran fluid through it 5 or 6 times (at least) before all the air was out. It was nice in the fact it was fast ( i had all 4 done in 40 minutes or less) and it was a one man job. My wife doesn't always have patience when it comes to helping bleed brakes. The hose on the bleeder isn't quite clear, but it's clear enough you can see the bubbles. There's a video about the bleeder on youtube, they say you can put silicone grease around the zert before hooking up the rubber fitting for the bleeder to help minimize air leaks. I didn't have to do that.     

SA69mach, you've talked about the bump steer kit shifting the tie rod end placement and it's effect on steering ratio. It got me thinking about the differences between mustang and aussie falcon/fairlane spindles. The aus spindles are basically the same as 68-73 disc brake spindles but are 3/8" taller. This alters geometry similar to half a traditional shelby drop. Where it gets interesting is the difference between falcon and fairlane/falcon wagon spindles. The tie rod placement is different to give more ackerman angle for the long wheelbase cars. There's been a lot of discussion on mustang forums here about which is the better spindle but the general consensus is use a matched pair from the same donor car. Most guys use the aussie spindles for an easily available disc brake upgrade and don't even think about the steering side of the deal. More ackerman angle is a common drift car mod, makes the car easier to flick sideways and easier to keep it in a slide. I've got mustang, aus falcon and fairlane spindles here and can compare tie rod placement. I was planning on using the fairlane spindles myself but my coupe is a long way from the road. Maybe someone with more suspension knowledge can chime in here with any ideas on the ackerman angle changes?

That green wire with the black plug looks very similar to the AC clutch/compressor signal line.  What's unusual is the black trace on the wire near the firewall side.
 
The other plug is your PRNDL signal.  The NSS/Backup light switch plugs into a four prong square plug: two black/red wires and two red/blue wires.

It's not a bracket, it just plugs into a hole in the dash above the switch. If my memory hasn't failed me the dash is 2 layers of metal, at the ignition switch location there is a gap for the light to shine into and that's also why the bezel nut has holes around its circumference, to allow the light to pass thru. I'll try to get a photo this evening when I get home, don't know if it will be possible though. If I find out the installation is different than stated I'll be the first to admit I'm 'full of s&$?' , wouldn't be the first time!

I had the same problem. Do what Jay suggested. Worked for me.

Just had to replace the bulb in mine last weekend, this is one of those feel around installs, the hole for it right above the ignition switch.

I copied this from Chillinh but modified it. I wanted my speakers pointing towards the driver and passenger. Whether that was really worth the effort, who knows but it was pretty easy.
 
One thing I didnt do was fully enclose the speaker. The car will probably never be driven in the rain, and the speakers were not that expensive. They are 4" Pioneers that I bought at BestBuy but they sound pretty good with the 6x9 I have on my package tray.
 

 
I actually tweaked the angle of the cut so that the cut line is closer to the silver line. I believe I went just below the two rivets that hold the control cable. The reason is that the diameter with this cut (pictured) was just slighty over 4" at the minimum and I was originally thinking 5 1/4" speakers.
 

 

 
I set the fresh air pod facing up with a sheet of alum foil on the bench then laid a layer of fiberglass in from the inside with it coming up about a 1" on the sides. After drying, I laid three more layers on the back side. After that dried, I laid small strips around the edge from the inside to reinforce. You can see from the first pic that I drilled 3/16" holes around the perimeter for the gel to set in. I did grind that plastic strip that is inside the pod at an angle where I laid the fiberglass.
 

 
I sanded the inside and put a little bit of bondo to smooth it out then painted the whole thing black. I bent the cable for the fresh air pull out so that it wont slide out if someone was to pull it.
 

 
Pic of it installed.

Finally got it fixed. Both of the Auto Zone remanufactured starters were junk. I finally grabbed the old rusty looking one that I pulled off the car 5 years ago when I started the restoration. I put it on the car and it fired right up and the car started after it was warm. Both problems solved with my old crusty original starter being put on the car. I will pull it off next weekend and detail it so it looks nice. The parts being sold as remanufactured these days seem to be junk. I don't recall having these issues in the 80's and 90's with remanufactured parts.

Cool for you, you got lights now. Glad you found the forum some help.
 
The slow way to find your screw holes for the foot switch (through dynamat) is to poke around with a pick or an awl until you strike the right spot.
 
The fast way is to take a scraper and peel back the section covering the switch location and just find the holes, and cut out the appropriate area to mount your switch. it wont affect your insulation. That material will stick down again when you are finished, so don't sweat it.
 
Good luck either way.

That's what I figured.  I ended up  going to the store today and settled on the Duplicolor Metalcast.  Found a really nice red a close match to what I have in mind for the color of the car.  It said on the can that it is heat resistant.  i was impressed with the final finish, its glass smooth.  I'm going to paint the throttle body spacer the same color.  The upper intake manifold will be black, and probably the lower intake manifold as well.  I'll have the plate finished tomorrow.  Will post a pic.

Well, not enough sleep, working to long on it, and trying to finish it up to return a friends tool, led me to put the spring in 180 degrees out.  I've installed springs several times before and never had this problem.  Must be getting old.  And a gluten for punishment.  Doing a Shelby drop on a big block with headers in the car is not fun.  Thanks for all the input.  Roller perches are on my list.

I replaced my floors so I placed it in the best location possible. Lucky I have everything still apart so I hope this picture serves its purpose. If not it will get you in the general area so you can poke around with an awl so you can find the original holes. Good Luck.

You can test it out of the car by supplying 12 v to B1, then test voltage output on B2 and H - pull the switch ON and see if you have 12v output on those terminals.
 
The switches do go bad. Worth checking your high/low beam switch too, (foot switch) as that is a common fail part when headlights do not work. Probably the culprit if your tail lights work and your headlights don't.

here you go
 

Good question, Looking at how the two halves are assembled It appears the center shaft is "swagged" on the bottom side to hold the two sections together. Therefore, having to use a countersink bit of some type to remove the swagged portion would not leave you with the ability to retain the use of the center section when reassembling and would require a new center section to be machined. 
 
If you take it apart, please post photo's as it makes me curious if it has rubber O-rings or rubber wipers to create a seal in order to maintain vacuum.
 
"Inquiring minds want to know"

Have any of you successfully refurbed the vacuum switch in your heater control panel?  Seems like a very hard part to find.  Looks like this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1969-1970-FORD-MUSTANG-SHELBY-AIR-CONDITIONING-DAMPER-DOOR-SWITCH-/161380694557?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item259309fa1d&vxp=mtr
(But I'd rather not get robbed like that)
 
Mine seems to be in good shape, but I believe the internal parts of the switch are leaking, and I can't get the vacuum motor that switches from defrost to floor to respond (the motor that has a port on the end and the side).  When I check that motor outside the car - works, and holds vacuum, seems the switch is leaking and not providing sufficient vacuum to this motor.  Other functions seem to work fine in my car.
 
Any help? I couldn't find much in searching the forums.
 
Thanks in advance.

depending on the size of the crack and where, JB weld fixes pot metal the best. It takes time (use the real stuff and not the 5hr putty) and multiple layers, but I had the entire front lip missing and I rebuilt it with JB. when it hardens it is technically stronger than the pot metal its on.