JayEstes

On a '69 there is another harness that runs to the front and ties into the front turn signals to activate the hood mounted turn signals.

Most people use a urethane windshield adhesive. There used to be several threads on the subject here but they've been lost.  I did mine a few years back using urethane and it's held up well. Clean all the old crap out, use some shims to position the glass (I used thin rubber strips, 4 to a bracket). West Coast Classic Cougar has a video on the subject that gives you a good idea what's involved (although not the procedure I used, but there is more than one way to skin a cat, as they say).
 

I had taken a wire brush and aggressively cleaned out the brackets all the way down to bare metal. So to position the glass correctly in the channel and to prevent any glass-to-metal contact, I cut some strips of thin rubber about 1" wide and 2" long and stuck them in the bracket in a U-shape. (An old inner tube would work for this) Then I filled the channel with adhesive, slipped the glass into the U-shaped shims and let it dry. The shims kept the glass and bracket nicely aligned and kept the glass from touching any metal on the sides or bottom.
 
In the video, he doesn't remove all the material in the bracket like I did, he just cleans it up, so his brackets slip on snug and aligned without any extra work, which may work just fine.
 
As I mentioned, there are other ways of doing it but this it what worked for me. Whatever you do, you don't want the glass to be glued in crooked or get broken by the metal bracket when you hit a bump.
 
I've got some pictures at home I could dig out later today.

I just received Tgriffin91's harness back and immediately found the problem: the pink resistor wire was crimp-spliced as I had to replace his engine gauge feed plug on the engine side of the firewall.  All of the splices were on the passenger side.  The wires on the outside were twisted up tight, and apparently that applied pressure on the splice and pulled the pink resistor wire out.  It'll be a quick fix for sure, but in the future, I will tape both sides of that splice to further protect it from separating.  This resistor wire cannot be soldered, as it is made of nichrome and won't accept lead-tin solder. 

and get it blessed by a priest that owns a Ford! lol

Good grief, make sure you disinfect it!

The CARLITE logo is centered and down low on the front glass. This one is dated 8H. Brian

Now you need to ask Safelite in advance how they plan to install it. Originally they were installed with butyl ,thats why your came out so easy. It would do the same thing if you were in an accident, that's why I install them with modern urethane.

take a look at these low mileage original 69 cars if you haven't already.  you can see a nice contrast on a number of the parts.
 
http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-0510-ford-mustang-cobra-jet-mach1/photo-gallery/#24
 
http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-1002-1969-ford-mustang-mach-1/photo-gallery/#15
 
below is mine.
 
charcoal on the column, lower dash, kick panels, pillar trim.  semi gloss on the console, dash clusters, lower dash extensions.
 
the piece below the column should be a semi gloss black in my opinion (just looking at my original).  it didn't match the lower dash, so I painted it charcoal.
 

 

The odds are it is your light switch.  Put a plug in your cig lighter and monitor it with a voltmeter. If it stays at the same voltage while your lights flicker, then it is probably the switch.

I patched mine with the engine fitted. I'll replace the apron when the engine comes out.

To make it even Tow Truck proof,I usually strap on a simulated Time Bomb to the steering wheel,with the word BOMB clearly visible

Isolate the problem.
My money is on the old sender, but it could be the gauge.
 
First test is to remove the sender wire from the fuel sender, and with the ignition in the OFF position, ground the wire to the frame/chassis. Then switch ignition to ON/RUN, but do not start the car. Watch the gauge. It should peg over FULL.
Only keep the switch on for a few seconds, enough for it to peg. Then switch ignition to OFF.
If the gauge pegs over full, then the gauge is OK for range. Not saying it is perfectly calibrated, but it has full range of motion
 
Move on to the sender. Drain your gas tank and remove the sender. Bench test the sender with a multimeter set on ohms reading.
You are looking for a range of around 10 ohms for Full and 78 ohms for empty. Around 33 ohms for half.
If your old sender checks out correct, I will be surprised. Bending arms will not help anything if it is not correct for the full and empty range at the sender.
 
For more detailed testing, make your own potentiometer test tool, for less than ten bucks. With that you can dial in the resistance exactly and test the gauge in detail, using the sender wire.
 
If you get a new sending unit, test it for range before installing. Sometimes they come bad out of the box.
 
If you are interested in the tool to make, I can post a link. Or you can search this forum under "Make your own test tool..."
 
The 69 gauges are not ideal, but they can be understood in time, and with some small effort. I cant stand things that don't work properly. They were the first Mustang gauges with the flexible circuit board and multi wire plug. Don't be intimidated by them, just take it step by step.
Isolate the problem part....

Don't laugh but I used to take the coil lead with me for a while.

you can glue the phone to the back of the glove box.
 
they are not going to spend 30 minutes trying to steal a car unless it is parked in a field in the middle of nowhere.
 
since they will never figure out the ground wire is disconnected, they will never be able to hot wire it.
 
its way to easy to over think theft devices and spend hundreds of dollars on them.
 
other deterrents are a flashing led lite that can easily be see, but no alarm and a lojack sticker in the windshield, lol.
 
 
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I simply remove the gas tank every time I park the car and carry it with me when I go into a store for shopping.  A bit awkward, but no one is going to go very far without gas...

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put a switch on the negative wire on the coil because the thieves only jump power to the hot side of the coil when trying to hot wire a car.
 
use the cigarette lighter as the switch . . when it is pushed in, it will make contact to run the car.
 
you could leave the car open with the keys in it and they could never, ever, start it.
 
i just saved you several hundred dollars.
.

I have 3 different bypass switches on my 70. It depends on your set up which will work best for you.
1. Kill switch for starter. Will not stop jumping at sol but will slow some down.
2. Ign feed switch. Kills power to the coil. May take longer to figure out why it won't stay running.
3. Ign ground that kills power from coil to dist. Again wll take some time to figure that one out too.
All these and it will not stop a tow truck from removing it from a parking spot.

There are a couple of things you can do.
You can electrically interrupt power to the coil or the solenoid with a switch or as a backup you can have two separate switches so of they find one they may not find the other.
A friend of mine rigged a little switch in his lighter. When you push the lighter in it pushed in a switch that allowed toe car to start. If you did not push in the lighter the car would not turn over.
 
The other thing that is successful, is that you put a ball valve in the hose between the front and rear fuel lines. That way if someone does steal the car they won't get very far before it dies
 
Bob

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Below are some of the factory spring specs from original Ford engineering drawings for a 1967 Mustang small block V8 . . These specs can be verified by contacting the link below . . They are one of the biggest automotive spring mfg’s in the world and have the original factory blueprints for springs for many cars.
http://www.eatondetroitspring.com/contact/ . . ask for Mike
 
269 lbs per inch
8 active coils
.610 wire diameter.
16.145†free length [i used 16.5]
3.875 id
 
The following calculations gives a close estimate of the actual resistance in lbs this spring will have when the suspension is fully compressed.
 
Active coils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Spring Free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16.5 inches
Spring rate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 lbs per inch
Preload when installed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 inches
spring resistance when installed . . . . . 807 lbs per inch
suspension ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 to 1
total suspension travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 inches
spring resistance with suspension fully compressed is 8 x 269 = 2152 + 807 lbs of preload = 2959
 
Shorten spring 10% [.8 coils] . . . . . . . . . . . .7.2 coils
Spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16.5†– 10% = 1.65†= 14.85 cut length
Spring rate increases to . . . . . . . . . . . . .  299.75 lbs per inch
Preload when installed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.35 inches
spring resistance when installed . . . . . . 404.6625 lbs per inch due to no preload
suspension ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..2 to 1
total suspension travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 inches
spring resistance with suspension fully compressed is 8 x 299.75  2398 + 404.6625 preload = 2802.6625
2959 – 2802 = 157 lbs less resistance with suspension fully compressed.
 
Shorten spring 25% [2 coils] . . . . . . . . . . . ..6 coils
Spring free length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16.5 – 25% = 4.125†-12.375 cut length
Spring rate increases to . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 lbs per inch
Preload when installed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.125 inches negative [free space]
spring resistance when installed . . . . . . . . .0 lbs per inch due to no preload
suspension ratio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 to 1
total suspension travel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 inches
spring resistance with suspension fully compressed is 6.875 x 360 =2475 lbs.
2959 – 2475 = 484 lbs less resistance with suspension fully compressed which is a decrease of 16 .35%.
 
 
If the rate of the spring is high enough such as a 350 for comparison in this case, it will still have a higher resistance than the stock one when the suspension is fully compressed.

Weight wise we should be about the same, I did try and give her frontend a reduction by changing intake, water pump, ac comp to aluminum but seem to have added pounds with the scatter shield and a few minor parts.
From the pic's posted, Yes its just my thoughts it looks like the old springs would be your best chance to get to the level your after. It looks like they are better made to sit in the pocket and spring perch.
Letting it sit overnight is nice, but it needs to move to allow everything to settle in place. Your 1/2 inch difference could change with a short spin around the block.
 
Ps. After studying the photos more I can see what the problem is......The garage is TOO clean!

My PO put in an aftermarket radio that I hated. I went on ebay and found an FM/AM stereo out of a 75 F-150. It is basically the same but it has a slider bar where the 69 & 70s didn't. It fits perfectly and I only paid about $50 for it. I sent it to Dannoand he upgraded it with a USB to chatge my Ipod, a switch to select radio or Ipod, a jack for my Ipod and a lead for my power antenna. It looks stock and sounds great. Danno is the man!!!

I think they are really called "quarter panel burn-out debris prevention flaps".

Just to throw another option, maybe consider a modified factory radio? How about a 1970s era factory radio with MP3 and/or Bluetooth?   I can easily add a mp3 or Bluetooth input to a factory radio from the 70s.  The radios are cheap enough, and put out real good sound.   You typically do need an additional external speaker amplifier.   I have done the mod for others on this forum.   This way you can keep the factory look.
 
I have added mp3 to dozens of radios, but bluetooth is the latest thing I added to mine and others.  I can listen in my home or car,  playing the music from my tablet.   If I want the normal radio, I just switch off the Bluetooth, and the normal  AM FM radio returns.   The 1970s AM/FM radio with Mp3 input or Bluetooth is about $100. Just another option to consider.

if you are good at welding or knows someone whos is good at tit, I recommend welding a plate and re-cut to the correct specifications.
 
but before anything try giving them a call and talk to their manager see if they are willing to do anything since cusomter service is not responding back. emailing and talking on the phone im sure you will get a different response.
 
kinda sad that they are not willing to deal with this or at least exchange it.