JayEstes

There is a little tound plastic seat stop on the lower cushion located to the rear just under the seat back near the seat hinge on both sides if I recall.
If you didnt reinstall one of these the seat will lean to one side.
A lot of times ppl remove them or cut them to allow the seat to have a more leaned back position

Made one set, should finish the rest in a few days.
 

Mine will not cost $24 each and not be used :) I also make the parking brake switch and sell it cheaper than WCC wants for a used one.

Be thankful you're not tackling a Boss or Shelby; prices are outrageous, particularly if you want NOS!

He cant touch my shorts, but I will probably be sending him a few harnesses to rebuild. That's a cool service for sure. 

Sorry we don't have a diner in this forum (yet). But if you want your shorts checked, Randy ( @Midlife) will be happy to help.

Acapulco Blue with a small amount of metal flake.

Thanks everyone!
So here's the tool I ended up getting.  It worked beautifully!  It took longer to open the box and look at the directions than it did to actually put the mirror on!  Now I have extras for future things that may come up.  Right tool for the job....

Ridge, that can't be from Harbor Freight, because looks like it says made in USA on it.

well, yes, and no.  The original one that was always wrong has been replaced by a cheap chinese repro which is always wrong.  Don't get me wrong, when you fill the tank it says "way full"... and it stays there until it starts to go down, which is quick, and then it says empty for a a couple of days worth of driving before it goes out.  Both were kinda the same, but never right.  I'm kinda anal, and I feel, like when I fill the tank, it should point to the F, and then juuuuuust before i am completely out of gas it should point to the E.  I know that's being kinda picky, but I'm actually trying to get it to behave correctly.
SO, I like this stupid-expensive calibration tool, which makes it behave how I feel it should - even though I probably oughta fill the tank as soon as it goes below half-full like my dad always said....

I get male/female bullet connectors at delcity.net under trailer connectors.  The 69/70 fuel sending unit uses a standard #8 bolt, and the 90* slip-on connectors that NPD now sells should fit it. 

I found it important to be able to adjust the MeterMatch while what the fuel gauge. The fuel gauge and the adjustments to MeterMatch do not react instantly. Having actually installed and adjusted it, the trunk would make fine tuning the settings difficult to do.

I put mine on double stick tape and stuck up behind the gauge cluster on the underside of the cowl between the column and the kick panel with enough wire that I can pull down to the floor where it's easy to see and adjust. It is also right next to the wire harness with the fuel sender wire. A good spot to splice the metermatch in.

If you do not want to cut/splice your original harness, only solution I see is mount it in the trunk; hook up metermatch to the wire to the sender and post from the sender. You have to run a wire to the trunk to power the metermatch.

Start with cardboard, transfer to wood. My dimensions are much different than stock as I moved the seats risers back 6". Pics of process below. 
 

Fantastic job! I wish I could fabricate like you. I can barely mold something from ABS plastic.

She deserved to come out of the garage and take in the sun 

Was hoping they were for nitrous 

Got the new seats in you can see the NARDI steering wheel there too. They work much better w the race harness that is mounted on the stock roll bar. Reupholstering them in white w the Cobra & blue stitching took MONTHS, IDK why.
they are comfy too.
Next issue is getting her to stop wandering in the highway. After I fix that I can add MORE POWER!!!!!!

Light smoke might also mean leaking head gasket.  I'd double check oil and coolant to be sure the coolant isn't low, and theres no water in the oilpan.  This possiblity though is down the road from all the other advice....

I thought I add my two cents to this thread...
I use Evaporust on just about every rusty part I can. Even if I plan to media blast the part as it cuts down on the basting time. Evaporust is bio degradable and will not remove paint marks provided the paint is not over rust. My favorite examples are 1973 Mustang driveshaft where the paint marks were very visible after soaking in Evaporust for 4-5 days, the parking brake pedal and the clutch on my York A/C Compressor, which I wanted to retain a natural finish on it and could not use any gritty material to clean it..
Someone mentioned Dustless sand blasting. I had my 70 Mach 1 Dustless Blasted in my driveway by a service. First I'll say Dustless is misleading...No dust but very messy.  Since they use a water solution of sand and a rust inhibitor, it prevents heating and warping of the metal and prevents flash rust for weeks provided the car is kept dry indoors. It's important to shake and blow out all the blasting material from every nook and cranny. I was removing the basting material from the rockers and rails for week afterwards. I wish I could have dipped the car in a big vat of Evaporust, but that much Evaporust would have been very expensive!
Once the sheetmetal work was done, I sprayed the undercarriage, floors, engine bay, wheel wells, inside the doors, and trunk area with SPI Red Epoxy, which is designed to be applied over bare metal. They have gray and black if you don't like red. I then covered the floors, inside the doors, underside of roof, and wheel wells with Raptor bed-liner. Raptor provides very good rust protection for the floors and other hidden areas subject prone to rust. You can get Raptor in various colors or in a tintable version, if you want to use your body color. On the Undercarriage and the wheel wells again, I applied Lizard-Skin over the red Epoxy for sound deadening and to give it a textured "undercoating like" appearance. Lizard Skin is gray in color rather than black, which I was not happy about. Later I also applied 3M rubber undercoating to the wheel wells to give it a more stock like texture and appearance in black.
Finally on the engine bay I sprayed Eastwood Chassis Black over the SPI Red Epoxy.
EvapoRust at work... I used a 4" wide PVC tube, stuck the driveshaft it it, and capped the ends after filling it with the stuff. LEft it for a week or so...

Submerged the parking brake assembly in Evaporust...

Submerged the just the clutch face down in a pan of Evaporust...

My 73 Convertible done with SPI Red Epoxy on the undercarriage.

My 70 Mach 1 undercarriage with SPI Red Epoxy ...

Gray colored Lizard-Skin over the SPI Red Epoxy. I did not like the gray color in the wheel wells, so the wheel wells were sprayed with the Red Epoxy, then the gray lizard-skin, and then black 3M Rubber undercoating. Hopefully good rust protection and some sound deadening.

Engine bay with Eastwood Chasis Black over SPI Red Epoxy

Raptor on the floors I used premixed Caution Orange instead of the tintable type. I thought it was close to the car's Calypso Coral body color. Kind of bright, but no one will see it once the interior is in...lol!

Dustless Basting in my driveway... no dust, but a big cleanup job afterwards....

I got the new front section in and today I plan to clean up what's left.  I was considering a paint gun with part A and B primer and ..... then I remembered @JayEstes gave me all of this great info on what specifically to use and not to over complicate this like I usually do.  Ordering 4 of the primer and 4 of the paint. I hope it's enough.  This will be for everything I can touch while inside the engine bay. Just not the frame rails. That will be with the bed liner. I don't plan to use seam sealer. 
For the underside, wheel wells and under the fenders I ordered some raptor bed spray liner. My son sprayed that on his trucks bed and it's holding up great and it's been over a year at least. Even the thin coated areas I told him to hit again and he didn't look good still and the sun is always on it. 
I'm off today, kids are at school, wife is on her online classes and studying and it's not hot yet...... time to get to work. 

That shouldn't be a problem.  When I rebuilt mine I ended needing new gears, etc. like you went through.  At times on the bench it looked like a brass blocker ring might stick to a gear.  But, it works fine.  When doing your final checks on the bench all I can add is make certain everything is well lubricated with a GL4 rated gear oil (not GL5 or GL4 and GL5 rated).  I also used a trans assembly lube for assembly as it has a low melting point and mixes with the oil.  Greases for assembly will never melt and mix in.  So with greases any metal shavings from a fresh rebuilt (which will happen) will stick to the grease and won't drain out with the oil.
Be certain to change the oil frequently to get any metal particles out.  They say 500 miles, I've changed mine twice in about 100 miles.  So far okay.
Initially I had a trans shop rebuild mine, they used grease for assembly and didn't inform me to change the oil soon after use.  After a few hundred miles metal particles from the rebuild ruined the rear bearing and the inside of the case was completely coated with grease and embedded metal particles. 

My 69 RUG AE2 trans has a drain plug.  In that OE plug are installed a pair of small magnets.  Pretty clever of the manufacturer to think of that.  Brian

Since you’ve got to Chrome the new 3D piece. What would it take to modify what you already have then rechrome the fixed piece.