JayEstes

Sounds like something going on at the fuse box, as radio, backup lights, and blower motor/AC are powered by ACC and fused by 2 fuses.  Might be a bad ignition switch or bad/nearly broken wire for ACC at fuse box.  Usually, it is the BAT line that breaks, not the ACC line.  Something is going on that when more power is pulled through those lines, continuity is lost due to higher resistance.  I'd check your fuse clips first.

Did you increase your referral bonus? I received $15 from you last week.

Thanks, Jay.  You'll be getting your $20 in the mail soon, so watch for it! 
Just kidding folks, but thank you for the kind words.

Jay, fyi, before you print something, you need to think about the environment the parts is going to be used also. Like heat, UV, wear etc and choose the correct flament kind. Also on items with small details or critical dimensions, you need to create the 3D with your printers specs/capabilities etc, print a sample, measure and modify the model most of the time. So if I gave you the models I created/printed parts with, the part you printed from that on your printer may not work. For example the ears/tabs of the window roller, I had to modify a few times to get the ears/tabs to have the spring action when printed. I also made the rubber piece that is part of the horn switch of standard 70 steering wheel from flexible flament and had to modify the model 4-5 times to have my printer print a functioning piece.

One disadvantage of doing tank parts in plastic is danger of breakage in case of collision.  I think ductile steel with rubber connections is going to behave much better in that case.

No, it is for a side/quarter panel mounting but it wouldn't take much to modify to work on the taillight panel.

The seat is based on an existing design I found some basic dimensions for then created a model.
The badge I created in SWX from scratch. The Ford emblem is created using an available text font I had previously downloaded then doing an extruded cut like the 351 & cleveland. I have not had any made as of yet.
This is the type of things I design at work. I created this image for the manual for this container. This is a model.
 

A shipping container for a gas turbine engine for electric power generation. That one is actually just for the core engine. size is approx 10' H x 9' W x 16' L give or take.
Back to the OT, more parts that could be 3D printed. Fuel cap & flange.
 

PICS....

They come back perfect, and with a documented wire-list specifically for your car.  Its a Waaaay better deal than replacing all the wiring IMHO.

Anyone interested in starting a 3D printing thread?  I've got a decent printer at home, and since I got it I have taught myself some CAD.  I think it would be nice to have a library of parts for the mustang, and those of us that can make them, can print stuff in our spare time, and provide to other users.  I recently wanted a box to contain a fuel-gauge calibration device, and I created this in about an hours worth of CAD and then some longer hours printing:

It's not perfect, but it allowed me to use an existing bolt to hold down the device, and store the wires/connections in the trunk.  Here it is installed:

It seems to me there is a need for 3D printing stuff for ourselves, and as we design the parts we can perhaps keep a library of them somewhere, and if people need one or several, those of us with time and printers can help out.
What do you all think?
Jay

MikeStang, it's hard to tell, but from the top view photo it looks like something is bent on the seat back.  He mentioned he is going to try to adjust the brackets.
 
Yeah, he did a nice job fitting the upholstery.

There is a little tound plastic seat stop on the lower cushion located to the rear just under the seat back near the seat hinge on both sides if I recall.
If you didnt reinstall one of these the seat will lean to one side.
A lot of times ppl remove them or cut them to allow the seat to have a more leaned back position

Made one set, should finish the rest in a few days.
 

Mine will not cost $24 each and not be used :) I also make the parking brake switch and sell it cheaper than WCC wants for a used one.

Be thankful you're not tackling a Boss or Shelby; prices are outrageous, particularly if you want NOS!

He cant touch my shorts, but I will probably be sending him a few harnesses to rebuild. That's a cool service for sure. 

Sorry we don't have a diner in this forum (yet). But if you want your shorts checked, Randy ( @Midlife) will be happy to help.

Acapulco Blue with a small amount of metal flake.

Thanks everyone!
So here's the tool I ended up getting.  It worked beautifully!  It took longer to open the box and look at the directions than it did to actually put the mirror on!  Now I have extras for future things that may come up.  Right tool for the job....

Ridge, that can't be from Harbor Freight, because looks like it says made in USA on it.

well, yes, and no.  The original one that was always wrong has been replaced by a cheap chinese repro which is always wrong.  Don't get me wrong, when you fill the tank it says "way full"... and it stays there until it starts to go down, which is quick, and then it says empty for a a couple of days worth of driving before it goes out.  Both were kinda the same, but never right.  I'm kinda anal, and I feel, like when I fill the tank, it should point to the F, and then juuuuuust before i am completely out of gas it should point to the E.  I know that's being kinda picky, but I'm actually trying to get it to behave correctly.
SO, I like this stupid-expensive calibration tool, which makes it behave how I feel it should - even though I probably oughta fill the tank as soon as it goes below half-full like my dad always said....

I get male/female bullet connectors at delcity.net under trailer connectors.  The 69/70 fuel sending unit uses a standard #8 bolt, and the 90* slip-on connectors that NPD now sells should fit it. 

I found it important to be able to adjust the MeterMatch while what the fuel gauge. The fuel gauge and the adjustments to MeterMatch do not react instantly. Having actually installed and adjusted it, the trunk would make fine tuning the settings difficult to do.

I put mine on double stick tape and stuck up behind the gauge cluster on the underside of the cowl between the column and the kick panel with enough wire that I can pull down to the floor where it's easy to see and adjust. It is also right next to the wire harness with the fuel sender wire. A good spot to splice the metermatch in.