JayEstes

Going for a full turn key Street or track disc set up, so looks like i will be stopping after all. 

Oh lets all give the main stream media a big hand for the wonderful job they've done whipping up the populous over Corvid 19. Yeah !!! Now don't be cynical, they didn't do that just for ratings. No, I'm sure they didn't. And of course its all Trump's fault, after all... everything is. A 12% drop (to date) in the market is trivial and we should all be happy to contribute that to their ratings. Your 401k won't miss a few thousand dollars. Well maybe it'll be 20 or 30k, (or more) but that's all right.
News is propaganda and journalists are activists with a platform.
Look at the numbers people, and turn the damn news off. If as much attention were paid to the flu there would be world wide pandemonium. Its numbers are far worse. This will pass. Wash your hands, cover a cough, and use common sense.

a friend of mine, who loves photography took pictures of my car. 
looks pretty good! 
 

Only one 69 at the show.

She's got a lovely tight behind! 

I have a 69 Coupe & I have the Hedman #-88408 Elite Ultra Duty HTC coated shorty headers on my 1987 5.0 w/T-5 trans.
 

 

Both of mine are fberglass, still had to work them.  One is from MTF, the other out of California, can let you know if interested

Now you done did it haha!

Great work Ridge Runner. Maybe it's Halloween, but i see a Donald Duck mask.

Reminds me of a flattened "Donald Duck"

Here you are Bob.

 

Well after much deliberation I decided to build another center console and take my time and do some upgrades like Cup Holders, USB Ports and such...I built one to about 75% completion and didnt like how the face plate looked so I trashed it and started over, heres the end result.
Wish I was better at installing upholstery but it doesnt look to shabby.
Have to order me a billet bezel and leather shifter boot and she will be all buttoned up

A member on another forum was needing this part ,it is the inner rear door post for a 67 68 fast back  ,they are available only in a full door frame kit . A couple of paper templates ,a little bead rolling and a usable part came to be  .they are not exact but if you cant find them you has to make um 

Get another one, even the inside curve near the tail light looks wrong.

Just clarifying how does the trunk side fit? From the pic it looks like it is dropping down to the right.
maybe relocating the mounting holes may help, need more info.

Thanks fellas!!! Per comments here, I'm going to fix the left rear qtr rust and bank out the rest of it. I have a patch panel for the rusted out area that I bought from CJ Pony a year or so ago. I've read that is it a poor fit and will need some modifications. I'm going to mess with it and see if I can make it work. However, if it becomes a mess, I've noted NPD has a couple of options, one being a patch panel made in Canada. Anyone use it?
As for the tail panel, I have a high end piece I purchased through NPD. I will probably just replace the whole tail panel. 
Thanks!!!

Some people like myself do care about date codes, because cars are only original once, and I for one do not want to own a Taiwanese made Mustang.
Also, if you have a high value car like a cobra jet or boss 302 or boss 429 or shelby etc, i guarantee you with 100% certainty that nearly every single potential buyer is going to care a lot about whether it has the original sheet metal with the date codes on it or not. I know this for a fact because I have been repairing, restoring, and selling these for a living for 45 years, and if you have 2 mustangs that are identical except that one has all original sheet metal and the other has mostly crappy taiwan sheet metal, the taiwan car will be worth much, much less than the original sheet metal one, unless of course you find someone that just happens to prefer crappy taiwan sheet metal with no date codes that is mig welded to a car, instead of original ford sheet metal with date codes that has the factory spot welds etc.
Also, if you want to replicate the original spot welds, you will have a hard time doing it yourself unless you have a spot welder with the right tips like the one I use, and this is only going to cost you even more additional work and time, as opposed to just replacing the lower section if that is all that is needed.
The 68 mustang dynacorn had at the sema show several years ago was nice, but it cost them a ton of money to have someone make all their aftermarket pieces line up together.
 
 
 
 
 

you could not pay me enough money to change your original quarter with a pos repo one.
1. you loose the factory date code when you replace the quarter.
2. you loose the factory spot welds when you replace the quarter.
3. a new quarter will not properly line up with the door, or trunk lid etc unless you work on the quarter to make it fit.
4. it will be a bazillion times harder to make a repo quarter fit than it would to put the lower section in like latoracing shows.
 
 

No harmful effects from using power steering fluid. The type f is around 6.5w and I think the power steering fluid we used was around 7.5 - 8w. I will look into it for you when I get a chance.

We have found it to be either the pump or the control valve on different cars. We tested a rebuilt pump that had a shudder and found the pressure to be LOWER than an original pump with 100k miles on it. After we installed a pump that produced more pressure at low speed, the shudder went away. In the case where the shudder is caused by low pump pressure at low speed, a smaller pulley can help, but it's not something to do on a non stock, high revving engine, and is of course a band aid instead of a proper fix.
We had so many faulty "rebuilt" control valves that we had one of the mechanics that knew how to rebuild them, redo them and never had a problem with a control valve after that. I think one of the guys on another mustang forum mentioned what the cause of low pressure in some rebuilt pumps was but I forgot exactly what it is.
We also found that slightly thicker power steering fluid would help, but unfortunately I can't remember exactly which one it was at the moment.
 

Stay with stock for now.
upgrade to more aggressive pads and look at adding drilled and slotted rotors to handle the heat better.
 
there are upgrades that can be made later if you find it is not enough.
 
 
in my 69 conv, I have factory front disc brakes and added rear disc.
if I don’t warn you or you are not buckled, I can put your nose to the windshield operating the brakes with my big toe

Thanks guys. I think I'll follow Bob's advice and stay with stock. If they don't perform as I want, then I can switch to the Wilwood system.

you have chosen wisely.

I advise you to just rebuild/replace the stock stuff. I guarantee you it will save you money and heartache down the road. Brake lines including parking brakes won't need to be addressed. This coming from a guy with 14 inch front rotors and rear Cobra disc brakes.

Here's my take - some of that may be reasonable and some of it definitely is not.  For instance, it's definitely not a good recommendation to put in performance suspension & handling for $5K.  That's NOT mandatory.  You can get new stock UCA's for lass than $50 per side (that's a lot cheaper than $350/side).
Don't put in 620lb springs up front unless you want it to ride like a covered wagon.  I think stock springs are 300 lb/in.  Don't lower it, but instead:   The top 3 upgrades for front suspension improvement are:
Redrill your shock towers to do the "Shelby/Arning drop" (if not already done) with new UCA's ($20 template + $100 for both UCA's) Put in a 1in" sway bar.  (best bang for the buck I think and makes the car safer to drive) $140 New KYB Gas Adjust shocks (Maybe $100 for both) After that, you'll need Tie rod bushings ($40ish), stock perches ($40), new spring seats ($10), some Tie-rod work
So that's like $400, and it will drive fine (not like a racecar, but you won't shatter your teeth going over the railroad tracks either)
On the rear, I would not buy new springs unless they can show you they are bent or ruined.  Just New KYB gas adjust shocks and see how it is ($100), maybe new leaf spring bushings if she's rattly.  Since there are traction bars, this will be more work.
So that's maybe $200 on the rear, and most all the big stuck on suspension for like $600-$700 in parts.  If you do this work yourself (only thing really dangerous in compressing front springs).  If you want to pay to have this done, $1500 is probably not outrageous, but I wouldn't buy new leafs. if they say they are "shot" make them show you how. 
Brakes are most important:
replace all the rubber brake lines, 3x maybe ~$50 each.  The following statement however - makes NO SENSE to me: "Found rear brakes contaminated with rear axle gear oil."  I have no idea how this could happen.  Sound like BS to me, and I would ask about it.  These systems are not connected, and I can't see how they could be thru parts failure, so I call BS.  Get a new drivers drum if you can't find someone to machine it.  New pads (cheap) and get new rear cylinders (cheap).  My brake backing plates are grooved some, but still work ok - weld and remachine is a fair bit of expensive work, and I'd try it without doing that.
They don't mention the brake distribution block or the proportioning valve.  The prop valve should be taken off and have a new seal kit put it - virtual certainty it needs that ($35 for parts).
---
Engine:  That's an expensive radiator.  I bought a 3-row copper for about $350.  You can get a thermostat for $5,  you probably don't need a fuel pipe - I wouldn't do that.  If you flush out the fuel tank, there is no need to move the fuel filter ahead of the fuel pump (non stock).  New rubber connections ($10), New fuel pump $30, new filter $5.  That's all that's required.
If they can show you the leaks on the manifold you should fix it.  And you can look for this yourself, by simply wiping off the front and back and driving it around.  If it's leaking oil you should be able to see it.  personally, I don't need to remove the Ac compressor to work on the intake so - my opinion - not required.
Your oil pan probably is leaking.  Do you need to spend $1000 to fix it?  NO.  This is a hard job to get the old one off and put on a new one that doesn't leak, but honestly, you can keep the oil filled while you save some $'s to have it fixed later for cheaper than that.
Fix the motor mounts.  If they are original, they probably are cracked.  $320 seems like an ok price to do that.  Engine balancer MAY be needed.- if you can't get it to run.  But if it runs/timing is OK, I'd do this later.
For the love of God, do the all the AC/PS/alternator/fan belts yourself - any person driving a 69 oughta be able to do the belts.
No idea on the improvised trans inspection plate, but it's probably fine (it's a piece of sheet metal to keep crap out of the flex-plate starter engage area).  look at it yourself and see how bad it is.
Trans mount is good chance it is bad.  $125 seems reasonable
I'd note the rear axle seals as something to watch, and do them later.  That alone is like $300.
buy your own heater hoses. $340 is outrageous unless he is putting Stainless braid on them.
Elec:
I don't know what he means "seat plugs" but they are dang expensive.  Fix the electrical that's broken and nothing else.  he's only giving you an AC diagnosis, which means there is another $1500 of cost to get the AC going probably.  Can wait.  Two windows at 60mph is usually okay for a lot of the US.
Body:
If the roof drip rails are leaking, that can allow body rust which you don't want.  you are looking at a lot of cost that may affect the paint.  so this is expensive.  Depending on the quality level of your paint, this may or may not be worth it.  Just do whatever to avoid rust.
OMG - do NOT spend $600 on the damn clock - buy a wrist watch!  $35!!!  worst case - pull it yourself and mail it off to be fixed.
Dash: LED light kit and printed circuit panel is all you need.  your fuel gauge either works or doesn't.  If it doesn't, I would change the sender in the tank for $30, and not buy a new gauge (which is probably fine, but inaccurate - they all are BTW).
Steering wheel can probably wait at $1250!!! Good lord!. 
Fix the windows.  those mechanisms probably need an overhaul - they are cheap systems, and if not adjusted properly, can bind and be really frustrating.
UGH.  That's a lot of stuff.  I'm not a fan of having other dudes do my car work, and so I don't know about labor costs.  Anything over $100hr is questionable.  $80 may be reasonable.  My costs above are for parts, not labor (all of mine is free, so I on'y see parts costs).
This stuff is not that hard to fix yourself.  It just takes time.  If you have more $ than time - this shop may not be that bad, but there is some questionable stuff  in here - other stuff looks reasonable.  it's a mixed bag.  
Good luck.