JayEstes

Verrry nice work

Guys- Has anyone out there used on of these devices? https://hotronicsproducts.com/battery-disconnect/ This is a device that hooks between the positive battery terminal and the solenoid. It's high amp capable and has a remote switch you can throw (install in a secret but handy place near the driver somewhere) to cut power to Solenoid. I really like the idea of having the "zero battery drain" potential (even this that is not a problem in my car at the current time), but also, it gives you a secret place to throw a switch to enable starting. Maybe a little bit of security in that. Curious what you guys think, cause I really like this concept, and I am considering getting myself one.

+10

As long as there is no paint around you are worried about getting ruined, after using a scraper, and a wire brush where I could, I used a scotchbrite pad soaked in lacquer thinner ("cleanup thinner" at your local paint store). As I go I have a roll of paper towels to do the final wipe down, once I get the stuff off. A gallon of thinner will go a long ways and is about $10. Scotchbrite with this solvent is "super effective" on just about anything you put it on. The scratching effects of the pad combined with the thinner are an amazing pair. It's messy, and make sure there is no good paint nearby, cause it will ruin just about any applied paint. Good luck finding any gloves that will protect your hands from this. thick PVC gloves are probably best.

IDK, maybe I am biased, but damn - that year of mustang is just one. awesome. looking. vehicle. ;-)

Just a quick 2.5hrs . It takes me about 30mins to get to the island, and I drove the majority of the sea-wall and back once there. Wish I had been an hour earlier - that would have been better timing.

All, Sunday night I turned a "I'll go take a drive" whim into a decent little drive. I realized I hadn't had this old car back to Galveston island since probably the late 1980's. Took some shots along the way, thought I would share (obviously, filter applied to this first one). It got too dark, too early this evening, but a few nice shots in there. Still need to go down there and get some sunset pics. I hit some rain on the way back tho - now the old girl needs a wipe down.

I have a stock 302 system and I put 2.25 dual exhaust on from this company: https://www.precisionexhaust.com/ I really liked working with them, they can custom make some of it, but as I recall, alot of the puzzle is to figure out what are you doing with headers/manifolds. I would say that my exhaust is a quiet system. Disappointingly quiet sometimes - sounds nice from behind the car, but just not a lot of rumble otherwise. I just bought a stock exhaust system with mufflers that they recommended. It has an H-pipe too. It's very hard to pick the muffler that sounds right to you, buying a mail order exhaust like this, unless you know what a particular muffler / pipe /engine combo sounds like ahead of time. I took a chance, and mine came out quieter than I wanted, but it's a nice system, and the thing bolted right up (bends were perfect for my car) absolutely no problem. I believe the guys at precision exhaust really know what they are doing. My cost was about the same as the system you linked, shipped to TX from CT. Jay

I'd recommend getting a set of these plastic door panel removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Auto-Trim-Removal-Tool/dp/B01L8GHB7O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525780755&sr=8-3&keywords=door+panel+removal+tool&dpID=41SkvZLT3XL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch I got these as a gift and it gives several tools for getting stuff like the subject switch out without worrying about the paint. This whole set is only $10 as opposed to the 1 metal tool you can get at advance auto.

Now I love that option! This is where I scabbed into the connection (for temporary I told myself) on our 71 that has a Holley + elec choke. I had the thought it would be nice to have an interim connection in that joint, but no idea where to get those connectors. I should known Randy would have them....

now, see, THAT.... I can understand. What about 69s? Any of this? Apologies to the thread starter if I am going too far afield - not my intention.

OK I could have been more clear. Where can I find +12V wire that they were referring to, which carries power to the solenoid, in the engine bay wiring? Odd thing is my son's 71 doesn't have this solenoid either, but someone replaced his orig carb with a Holley, so I suppose it went away with the old carb. I still haven't seen the wire I don't think.

Anybody got a pic of the anti-backfire solenoid, and a part number - I've never heard of that or seen it before? I'm pretty sure my car doesn't have it, but wondering if there is harnessing for it in the engine bay. Maybe it was a 70 emissions "upgrade"?

hey - you really oughta bolt that shock down.. haha!

Mine was bucked in June if I rem right, so that fits.

ah ha!! I have never heard that, and THAT explains why I don't have one. I'll be damned. Thank you.

Happy Easter to all the Mustang Brethren

does anyone have a link for those super thin plastic covers that car shows use for overnight cover at a car show? I like to get one of these to keep dew off. Just a super thin plastic with elastic around the base. Not a super tight fit, just to keep moisture and dust off.

I'm running KYB's and feel it is one of the best additions to the suspension. I however went with everything else stock except for 2 things: a 1" front sway bar and the shelby-drop. I put in brand new stock front springs. If you have lowered the front like so many do, your spring rate can be much higher. If you have large wheels and lower rifle tires that can affect ride stiffness too. I personally find the KYB's great in a 95% stock setup.

That’s kind of terrifying. Surprised you would shift it into drive while the engine was revving. I’d also worry about blowing the engine if it’s wide open and won’t stop. next time to kill the engine I would pull the main coil wire. It’s easy and quick and should put an end to high speed revving. ive had at least one incident where my car failed to start and I cranked until batt died. I charged battery and haven’t had a problem since. My suspicion for your prob is same as mine- flaky pertronix. I can’t prove it, but I wonder. Something is keeping power flowing with key off- could that be a sticky solenoid? Even though key off- it’s still engaged? Idk. Very weird.

Can't see why it should cost $1000 to have the frame checked for alignment. I'd be a little cautious of laying out that kind of cash as I don't think anything they can find will make that big of a difference.... I haven't had that done so, I don't know. My rebuild didn't need it, the body shop got all teh panels properly aligned with a frame that had had 2 minor hits/repairs prior to my owning it.

That's a nice concise summary Mach1. Both brief and comprehensive. If one put a cost to each item, they could likely develop a "bang-for-buck priority list". I'm guessing it would read something like this: Arning Drop Koni/Bilsteins/KYB shocks Sway Bar (I wouldn't go above 1in, and I'd use real rubber) (all three of the above are about $225 total I think) Then maybe next (guessing, but each on of these below is in hundreds of $): roller perches roller lower arms upper arms Some stuff like lockout kits don't improve ride but improve tightness or reliability, so those are harder to rate. I also would put new strut rod bushing kits in. Cheap and can remove slop. Make sure not to use poly bushings in this application, I have seen pics of snapped strut rods with poly bushings here. Another big factor is whether you are looking for street or track results. For just driving, I'm super happy with a mostly stock rebuild.

agree. This is the main reason I didn't go in originally. But, I also didn't make any adjustments yet, and that may provide some improvement.

Best bang for low $'s is 1 in. Sway brace. Really kills the body sway nicely. I think this is the biggest single effect on ride I made to a stock rebuild (including safety). The second biggest was KYB gas-adjust shocks. They are just right in my opinion. I did not lower the front, or cut springs, or any of that. I also did the Shelby (Arning) Drop - I think this one is a no-brainer, and quite a simple way to improve the front end geometry. I'm very happy with my "stock" front end suspension as a normal driver - it handles well on the road. I also rebuilt the entire stock power steering system, and found out it is very important to adjust or overhaul your steering box - I did not, and I have too much steering wheel slop, but other than that, I'm very happy with the entire setup.

OK, well I strongly recommend you rebuild the proportioning valve (brake distribution block). There is a great rebuild kit and musclecarresearch.com with fantastic instructions. Make sure you order the right rebuild kit for your distro block. I learned some hard lessons doing one, you can read about it here: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-rear-brake-issues-don-t-let-this-happen-to-you Lot of stuff on 7173mustangs applies to our cars, and that thread is a recounting of some issues I had. It should have some good tips on how to rebuild the block.