JayEstes
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Posts posted by JayEstes
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Check this out. Alvin, TX (half way to Galveston from Houston) yesterday
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69RavenConv reacted to this -
Here is my not-so-popular take: If you can rebuild and adjust the back drums and mash the parking brake and lock them up, what more braking power do you really need in the back? I hate drums brakes more than your average guy, but I've got my front discs dialed-in for almost no pedal, solid feel and back brakes adjusted carefully to provide maximum assist without dragging. I've got more brakes than I need.... however, I've just a driver, not road racing. The road racing is the biggest differentiator - but are 4 wheel disc really required? If you don't have more weight in the back than my stock car, how can you get much grip back there? The ass end of these cars weighs next to nothing, and I don't feel like rear-disc is required.
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16 hours ago, Hux said:Got bored with body work and felt the need to do something that made me feel like this resto would eventually be a driver so time to make something shiney.
So new carpet and new chrome trim (Dii Corvex) on the sports deck rear seat and now wrapped in bubble wrap and put away.
I could not get the carpet sitting nice on the floor piece that faces into the trunk - on the pre 69 they have the chrome trim. Mainly as I have no way to staple steel at hand in reality. Since the trim kit suits 65-70 I used the early piece to finish it.
The Dii chrome trim is actually nice, lined up with the existing holes quite well. I would recommend it.
Shame it had to be wrapped and stuck away. That's good looking work that oughta be seen.... soon.
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If you get the harness re-work done by Midlife, you get a nice wirelist that tells you where every color goes! Its a deal man! I swear he's not paying me for this...
stangman69 reacted to this -
I think I used some heat-shrink tubing, but it’s not gonna be as nice as that sleeve insulator.....
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Started putting in the new “show panel” up front:
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Heres my advice. Just pull all your wiring and send it to MidLife for rework. All the connectors will be original (AND THEY WILL WORK). buying rewiring kits, and mainly the BS associated with making them work is stupid as long as MidLife is around. Don't re-wire you car - just get MidLife to fix it. Probably less cost... 1000% easier!
capemustang and RPM reacted to this -
Wow. Interesting thread. So I went to the US Radiator site to see about getting the right radiator new. If I found the right page it is this:
http://www.usradiator.com/ford-mustang-1967-69-v8-260-289-302-351-radiator.html
Here are the prices. Looks like $600 for a 3-row with trans cooler. Man, thats a lot of dough.
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Excellent work. I also "plasti-dipped" the rubber bumpers. Works pretty well. Great job, and thanks for following up.
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Yeah. it does look kinda weird. It comes up about halfway on the tank and it "stands off" from the tank leaving a good half-inch gap. But, If it doesn't come up that high you probably won't have sufficient clearance for the fan.
Now I have replaced the radiator, but I bought a copper OEM style, so it matches the original radiator in shape and size. Here are a few pics of the top end of the radiator/shroud together:
And yes, my radiator cap is crooked. The one thing different about this radiator was that the slots for the radiator cap were clocked wrong, so the cap sits clocked at 45 deg, which is a problem, but I can't find a good way to fix.
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You know, I did repair those. I'm trying to remember what I did but I believe these rest or slide against the glass and need to be soft correct? Pictures might be impossible to find, but I'll go look. In the meantime.... I believe I put some kind of padding on the bar (I cannot remember what), and then found a thick felt cloth. I used I believe silicone to glue the pad down and also to glue the felt to the pad. I let the cloth wrap around the bar and stuck it well on all sides around the bar best I can remember.
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And now that it's found, it'll probably never drive again... These amazing machines found like this become museum pieces - which is a nice tombstone - but that's not what these cars were for....
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you guys.... dang it. Now you made ME buy one...
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For the underside, I jacked up the car to about 18in off the ground, basically everything on the car had been removed, and I went at the bottom with a wire wheel. Mind set was not to remove paint/primer however. I just wanted the big stuff to come loose - to get undercoat off and discover the real status of metal on the floor. For PPE I got a face mask, a face shield, and a tyvek bunny suit. I used a crawler to lay on and move around under the car. it was tiring, but not too bad if you get the car height right. Once I had the bulk of the crap off the car, I used PVC gloves, and a scotchbrite pad dipped in lacquer thinner to remove the rest of the gunk. Again, the pad with lacquer thinner (AKA cleanup thinner) will remove paint and primer, but the idea is to leave that in place and just clean the gunk off. I'd just clean until gunk was off, and the paint or primer exposed - I'd just stop there leaving as much of the original as I could. I found this worked well, and the final step was a clean cloth with fresh thinner. In the few areas where I had cut thru to the metal, I touched up with rattle-can primer immediately after cleaning with cloth.
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I would just try polishing compound on the local area first as Ridge suggests. Little elbow grease oughta get that out.
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On 3/15/2020 at 8:57 PM, smh00n said:Pffft you guys need to come here and pay AUD$1.23 a litre or AUD$5.59 per gallon. That's USD$3.35 a gallon based on todays exchange rate.
Sydney is a beautiful place, but I'll stick to my 1/3 cost here in Texas. In California, I have paid over $4/gal, so we've got some of that ridiculousness here in the US. All that extra cost just goes to the government - the fuel itself is really inexpensive.
I paid $1.83 last time I filled up....
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4 hours ago, bigmal said:
Wow. amazing work - spoiler LED is awesome. Now forgive me for being nosey, but that "garage" you've pulled her into... looks more like a living room!? Maybe you just knocked the wall between garage and living room down? Congrats if that's simply the garage - nicest one I've seen in awhile.
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I put sequential LED's in the back.... and ALSO in the hood scoop! I really like the sequential blinkers and I have had no issues at all with the system.
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Well, it's a long shot - and this was posted a long time ago, but I just saw it - but you might find something that can substitute for it on McMaster-Carr website:
https://www.mcmaster.com/springs
Look under the torsion springs section, and see if you can find one with about the right strength and length. You may need to modify one or both ends of the spring to make it work in your application.
Hope it helps!
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On 2/6/2020 at 7:06 AM, copb8 said:2 questions.
Would alignment still be considered a possible issue if the vibration happens while standing still and revving in neutral?
Should the transmission rest firmly on the frame cross-member?
In neutral, only the torque convertor in the transmission is rotating, so a vibration could theoretically be setup by having the torque converter out of balance, or improperly bolted up to the flex plate. Bottom line, look for replaced or repaired parts that are rotating while in neutral as these items could be causing an out of balance rotation, and hence vibration.
I would say yes, the trans should mount solidly. If it is not solidly in it base, the engine is sitting on two mounts on the sides and could tend to oscillate without the 3rd hard point of the transmission mount. I agree with Mach1 above.
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Here's a different thought. I believe the vibration could be a drive train alignment issue. If the transmission was removed and replaced, did they put in a new mount and if so was it the correct one? If possible, I would start looking at the alignment of the components. If you get the transmission misplaced when mounted, the drive shaft angles (relative to transmission on one end and differential on the other) change slightly, and it's possible that the different configuration can have harmonic frequencies that set-up vibrations. with a situation like this, you can have all the right parts in there, but still have an unacceptable performance due to the physical alignment of the parts. I would search this forum for "drive shaft misalignments" and see what you can find.
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Man, that is some pretty paint! I'd check with west coast classic cougar. They cover our model of mustang, and they tend to have a bunch of old cars they can pull this stuff from (cougars are about 70-80 same as our cars anyway). Drip rail extension doesn't pop up under parts they have in the catalog, but I bet if you called them, or emailed with a picture of the part they could hope locate one.
interior firewall insulation options
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Edited by JayEstes
typo · Report reply
One of the big benefits of the Dynamat is the metallic top layer. This reflects tons of heat from coming through the floor and walls that original insulation does not have. For that reason alone it is far superior. It is easy to work and install, but good luck ever getting it off once you put it on. I didn't know about the dynaliner, and now I am kind of jealous of fvike. I haven't done my roof, so maybe I can use that there. Materials like Danno has used also have this IR reflective coating. My recommendation is that whatever you put in should have heat-reflective material in it.
Dynamat has the added benefit of significant noise dampening as one of its primary features. I also lined the inside of the outer skin of my car doors with dynamat to hush the tin-ring you hear when they close - it's makes a real difference! I'd like to do the same thing on my hood, but haven't figured out a good way to close it out for looks - the dynamat logo on a sometimes wrinkly reflective surface is not something I ever want to look at.