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JayEstes

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Posts posted by JayEstes

  3. Posted · Report reply

    That's what I needed to know thanks. I went ahead and disconnected the plug again with the new fuse, and (as one should expect after reading your post) nada.

     

    So in the "shorting to ground" process, is this the same as shorting one plug to the other, OR do I need to short one specific wire to bare metal on the chassis?

     

    Sorry, but while I like to think I am a somewhat capable mechanic - even simple DC circuits can just baffle me sometimes. And thanks for the "don't short for too long" comment - I probably would have screwed that up and broken something.

  4. Posted · Report reply

    I have a gas gauge that is not working. I first tried to verify the gauge by disconnecting at the sender (at the tank). I looked for gauge to go "hi" - but it did not. Next I went to the fuse block. After replacing the fuse, I notice the gauge barely rises above E when the key is on, but even with a filled tank, no higher. I am believing the gauge is ok, and I have mech/elec problem since it moves a small amount now.

     

    So, I think I next need to try disconnecting at the tank and seeing if I can get the gauge to go "hi"? If it doesn't, what does that mean? Whats my next step? go on a long drive to empty the tank (more fun than just draining into a bucket right?) and check the float?

     

    Any other advice here?

     

    Thanks in advance - J

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Its not a trivial job, but you can do it with the car on jackstands. You will need a special tool to wedge into the suspension to unload the ball joints. It's a simple but special tool shown with dimensions in the 1969 shop manual (I can send you the pic/dimensions if you need). You will have to remove the tire, but can possibly do with the rotor/caliper (assuming disc) left on and connected to the ball joint you are not replacing.

     

    As for 3 bolt vs 4 bolt, I suspect it is fairly common to get a mix. My uppers are 4 bolt, (but they can be the 3-bolt style) but I believe just about all lowers are 3 bolt. My 3-bolt lowers are riveted in, if yours are like that - it would be easier to just replace the whole lower control arm (not cheaper unless you count time).

     

    If you have one side UCA with a 3-bolt and the other side with a 4-bolt, I suspect at some point the UCA was replaced, and they got the different UCA. I wouldn't worry about which it is, and just buy the part that fits - I don't think there is any functional difference between 3 & 4 bolt balljoints.

     

    When you get in that deep - be sure you grease the zerks on the ends of the UCA mount to the shock tower - these joints frequently get neglected being back behind those springs. When I got my UCA's off recently , I thought the shock tower mount rotation joint was in good shape until I disassembled them from the UCA. I then found the UCA threads which hold the ends of the rotation mount were stripped, and wallowed-out. Now I am buying new UCAs.....(Note: you can only check this joint if you take the springs out which is not required to change the ball joints - but you can lube the joint since the zerks are accessible all the time).

     

    well. That was probably more than you wanted to hear.

    Hope it helps though.

    Jay

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Ed- Yes, my grommit was a little crumbly, but plyable enough to get it out and back in. Find a new one if you can - I never looked. If you find a vendor, let me know as I could still replace mine (as I have a lot of work to do before this goes back in). That grommit is kinda odd as it fills a hole that is right in the middle of a 45deg bend in the side of the main housing, so it's shaped oddly (if I remember right).

     

    Mike- hope you have good luck on finding one of those bulb housings. You can get a whole shifter for something like 80-90$, but you'd hate to do that just for a shifter light. You might be able to make something out of a solid chunk of plastic or something (maybe even wood?) if you found the right material that was machinable.

     

    Good luck guys.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    I'm at the point of being ready to go back with paint in the engine compartment on the firewall. I've got it nice and stripped down. Was about to prime it, and I wondered... I've got the 500deg engine enamel for the paint, but what about the primer? I don't know if it can take the same heat, and I REALLY don't want to have the primer melt off under good paint.

     

    I don't really even know if that could happen, but thought I would ask.

     

    Perhaps using the enamel right on the stripped firewall without primer is a good approach? Anyone have any opinions/experience on this?

     

    Thx in advance, Jay

  8. Posted · Edited by JayEstes · Report reply

    Guys- I happen to have my shifter out, which I recently refurbed. I've attached some pics I took here. I also looked into my 69 elec assm manual, but couldn't find a diagram of this.

     

    In my car, There is only one bulb, and that goes into the silver housing that attaches via the setscrew to the shifter shaft. That housing looks completely opaque, but I believe it has a slot that lets light go into the edge of the clear plastic indicator. This provides a cool, subtle light that illuminates only the letters right at the indicator. Mine also had a nice teal translucent piece of plastic placed flat against the clear plastic indicator, that I believe gave off a blue light (haven't proven that yet).

     

    I suspect that, in your case of 2 bulbs, the PO must have wanted more light coming from the shifter housing, and just spliced in another small bulb to do that. I'd recommend getting that out of there.

     

    I'm hoping this helps you guys... :)

     

    Jay

  10. Posted · Report reply

    All,

     

    This thread was a great read. Really appreciate the discussion above as I have this in front of me. Makes me appreciate more why I might want to pay to have this done.

     

    Q1: Does anyone have an estimate for the total number of hours a pro might put into covering 2 front seats? I'd probably triple that if I was gonna try it myself.

     

    Q2: Can you buy any covers with a fabric center section? I mean, I live in Houston, and it is freaking HOT and HUMID, and black vinyl is absolutely the LAST product I want to sit on in shorts! If I really want fabric on there, do I HAVE to go custom?

     

    Thanks! J

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I've got 235/60/R15s up front on 8in rims, and this (new) car (to me) has significant rubbing issues (worsened in the last 100 mi or so I've driven it). is it the 8in RIM width up front that is bad? A sagging suspension? or ?? Several folks posting don't have any issue with this size. Perhaps it is the backspace on the RIM? Seems like this should work based on the discussions above. I can't figure out why I'm having such a bad rubbing issue. Any suggestions would help...

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Wow. Love this thread guys! Particularly the pics. I have a 69, currently stripped down, and this will help me get the wheels i need for that car. Love the looks of all those above - I am green with envy!

     

    As a related, but slightly off-topic question (1971 model), this weekend, I had a SWEET little 1971 fall into my lap on Sunday. I took title yesterday from a fantastic human who gave me a great deal on it.

     

    To the Q, it has some great looking wheels and RIMs, but it does have a rubbing problem in front. It has some "anti-rolled" fender lips (lack of a better word) from this issue - as expected, worse when hitting bumps during a turn.

     

    I really like the looks of it as is, and I am curious if I can put some gas shocks in to lift the car a bit, and roll the fenders to get by with it? What do you think? It seems very low strung, a bit soft, and I'm pretty sure it has old shocks which need replacement anyway to help the ride.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    One other thing, I do have the exploded view drawing book, which shows the blow-apart view of the strut, but it only shows the original inner/outer sleeve design which doesn't have the "frame washer", and the cupped washers look different on front and back sides (although they do seem to be "cupped side towards the rubber... Hard to tell actually...

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Aha! Thank you! I think... any input is help, actually.

     

    I don't have any other directions, and I have been making assumptions about the cupped washer placement based on limited experience with it.... and what I have taken off so far.

     

    In the attached pic, I show the d-side refurbed, and the p-side as it came off the car. Are you saying that the concave side of the aft washer should be towards the back of the car? If so that is surprising to me, and it doesn't seem to resemble the looks of the old one which I have removed.

     

    Thanks for the feedback though, this is helping me get this figured out.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I don't really have a good answer for you, but I'm hoping others do. Those cheap little "sheetmetal" screws (for lack of a better term) are not very secure. From my experience, the "bolts" don't hold them well after they have been removed a time or two - it's hard to get the "threads" to track properly and re-seat as it did originally.

     

    I'm not sure if it is possible, but have you considered putting a die on the bolt to give it a real thread, and then using a real nut? I suspect that the "bolts" on the quarter panel ornament are soft, and it might not work well.

     

    I've got this same issue - my ornaments are off right now, and they don't match the side body skin curvature very well, so you need to torque these nuts down a bit to get the ornament to hold flush everywhere.

     

    Hoping someone else has some thoughts for you - I would like to hear them.

     

    I'll take a look at mine and see if I can get some other ideas. I have the same issue.

     

    J

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I don't really have a good answer for you, but I'm hoping others do. Those cheap little "sheetmetal" screws (for lack of a better term) are not very secure. From my experience, the "bolts" don't hold them well after they have been removed a time or two - it's hard to get the "threads" to track properly and re-seat as it did originally.

     

    I'm not sure if it is possible, but have you considered putting a die on the bolt to give it a real thread, and then using a real nut? I suspect that the "bolts" on the quarter panel ornament are soft, and it might not work well.

     

    I've got this same issue - my ornaments are off right now, and they don't match the side body skin curvature very well, so you need to torque these nuts down a bit to get the ornament to hold flush everywhere.

     

    Hoping someone else has some thoughts for you - I would like to hear them.

     

    I'll take a look at mine and see if I can get some other ideas. I have the same issue.

     

    J

  18. Posted · Edited by JayEstes · Report reply

    I have pulled the front strut rod (drivers side) on my 69. When I followed the shop manual, it said to pry the forward washer forward with two 18in pry bars on either side to "separate the inner sleeve from the outer sleeve". My parts are all original (I believe), and these sleeves were stuck so bad that I pulled the flange of the inner sleeve through the hole in the forward washer. See pic. No big deal really since I have a rebuild kit. However, the rebuild kit I have doesn't use the inner/outer sleeve design.

     

    My new kit has a single "fairly thick" sleeve, 2 bumpers, 2 washers - but only a single piece that could go on either the front side of the frame hole, or the back side. The pic shows this configuration. There are no instructions with the kit. Does it even matter which side I put the "frame washer" (for lack of a better word)? Let me know if anyone has any idea how this is supposed to go...

     

    Thanks, Jay

  19. Posted · Edited by JayEstes · Report reply

    I have pulled the front strut rod (drivers side) on my 69. When I followed the shop manual, it said to pry the forward washer forward with two 18in pry bars on either side to "separate the inner sleeve from the outer sleeve". My parts are all original (I believe), and these sleeves were stuck so bad that I pulled the flange of the inner sleeve through the hole in the forward washer. See pic. No big deal really since I have a rebuild kit. However, the rebuild kit I have doesn't use the inner/outer sleeve design.

     

    My new kit has a single "fairly thick" sleeve, 2 bumpers, 2 washers - but only a single piece that could go on either the front side of the frame hole, or the back side. The pic shows this configuration. There are no instructions with the kit. Does it even matter which side I put the "frame washer" (for lack of a better word)? Let me know if anyone has any idea how this is supposed to go...

     

    Thanks, Jay

  20. Posted · Edited by JayEstes · Report reply

    I seem to have a unique (or at least different) shock bracket/export brace setup. I believe it is all original, but I am a little confused on how to get the shock out.

     

    The export brace is in 2 pieces (not connected at the firewall) and they are bolted OVER the top of the shock cap. I'm pretty sure the shock won't come out thru the small hole in the shock bracket, so it means removing the export brace to get the shock out? Is this typical? Most of the stuff I see on here shows the new 1 piece export braces which have the shock bracket simply bolted down on top of them.

     

    Also, I've got the engine/xmissn out, fenders and wheels off and the car up on jack stands. Oddly, it seems the shock is still under some load, and as I released one of the shock lower fastening bolts, the spring began bowing outward (!!!). This might imply I need to install the spring compressors before I remove the shock? That doesn't seem right. I got the center type spring compressor, and need the shock out to install. That should work. Maybe some of this is because I have the front suspension completely extended downward and carrying no weight.

     

    I'd appreciate some sage advice on this rather rookie question. Thx.

     

    Jay

  21. Posted · Edited by JayEstes · Report reply

    I seem to have a unique (or at least different) shock bracket/export brace setup. I believe it is all original, but I am a little confused on how to get the shock out.

     

    The export brace is in 2 pieces (not connected at the firewall) and they are bolted OVER the top of the shock cap. I'm pretty sure the shock won't come out thru the small hole in the shock bracket, so it means removing the export brace to get the shock out? Is this typical? Most of the stuff I see on here shows the new 1 piece export braces which have the shock bracket simply bolted down on top of them.

     

    Also, I've got the engine/xmissn out, fenders and wheels off and the car up on jack stands. Oddly, it seems the shock is still under some load, and as I released one of the shock lower fastening bolts, the spring began bowing outward (!!!). This might imply I need to install the spring compressors before I remove the shock? That doesn't seem right. I got the center type spring compressor, and need the shock out to install. That should work. Maybe some of this is because I have the front suspension completely extended downward and carrying no weight.

     

    I'd appreciate some sage advice on this rather rookie question. Thx.

     

    Jay

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Well, I don't have one, but I am interested in what you decide here. I don't have a tach yet, but would like to add one someday. Looking at the interior, and knowing my own, there isn't really good real-estate for that gauge. I think you may have to investigate going into a console somehow, the only other place where driver can see them would be on the center of the dash above the dash speaker maybe. That would be a tough install with permanent mods to the dash, and it would be obtrusive. The dash in these cars is relatively high anyway. My 2 cents on the passenger side is that is just not an option. Just doesn't seem like a good option to me, but thats just IMHO.

     

    Hope you get some other perspectives here, and better yet someone who has put one of these in a nice location.

     

    On an unrelated note, I love the look of the seats. I really need that cloth center section. Can you let me know where you got those? I live in a hot/humid environment and cant stand the thought of black vinyl where I live even though that is original on my 69. Are your seats custom made or something I can buy as is?

     

    Good luck!

    Jay

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Wow! I definitely love and am a tad afraid of the idea of a rotisserie! I have not heard of this, and looking at it, I can see how that would sure be the best way to refurb the floor. But, It also looks like something I would spend a lot of time building and setting up and testing.

     

    dz: I didn't know about "clean up thinner", can I get that at a local parts house? Sounds like just what I need. Also, you talk about removing the "tar like seam sealer". What did you do to replace that? Did you use some RTV or silicone or ?? I was kind of thinking of leaving that in place (mine is in good shape - at least looking at it). I'm thinking of some big/safe blocks, a face mask and coveralls and going at it while on my back..... I only plan to do this once....

     

    Indeed my car was originally "gold". I think it was officially "champagne" or something, but I just never liked that color. It might have looked good out of the showroom, I don't know, but I can't see ever going back to that.

  25. Posted · Report reply

    OK. Gimme your advice:

     

    I want to recondition the floor pan. Mine is in pretty good shape, but I am going to take all sound insulation off, and clean up any rust down there. After I get it sand-blasted down and cleaned up, I think I would like to go back in with some good self-applied truck bed liner... before I add the sound insulation and carpet pad, and carpet.

     

    My thinking is that this material is very durable, water resistant, and would protect the metal in the future. I am thinking of doing this for all floor steel, all the way back to and including the gas tank.

     

    So, what do you think? What are the pros and cons? Is it possible the new material could trap water in some undesirable way? What other unintended consequences might I run into?

     

    Happy to hear all your experienced advice.

    Thanks,

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