JayEstes
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Posts posted by JayEstes
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I've heard before that it is not good to lube the hinges much at all, as if they are 'too slick' they will not hold the hood up after you lift it. In other words, they are reliant on some friction to stay up, the springs alone are not strong enough to hold the hood if joints in the hinges are frictionless.
Mine behaves kind of similar, after closing the hood, it seems like the rear edge is "up" a little 1/8th to 1/4in. I can go along and press down on the hood right over the hinge, and this height delta goes away. This makes me believe it is a hinge wear problem, and not a lube problem. If it is a wear problem, it seems that one could just lower the rear hinges on the wall to account for this "slop".
All that to say, seems like lowering the hinge mount points on the wall of the engine compartment should solve the issue...
Jay
PS, Oh, and BTW, that is ONE BEAUTIFUL CAR. Congrats on being the owner of that machine.
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I think I like that lower placement of yours. Mine are a smidge above center, but I still like it. I purposefully placed the leading edge of the badges 6.5in from the forward tip of each scoop. It's just a half-in further aft than yours.
So far the 3M trim tape seems very solid. We'll see how it stands up when I get it out in the super-hot humid weather this summer...
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Color was hard to decide. Not an original color, but I decided on Ford's late model Ruby Red Metallic. There's a lot of it on today's F150s explorers etc, but it looks great. Very happy with it on this car.
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I wanted to follow up on this, and well, I took the advice! When I looked at the badges I had (Daniel Carpenter brand) I found they had slightly recessed backs and 2 pins each with sheet metal nuts. I figured since I had the 3M trim tape, I was gonna give "gluing them on" a try rather than drilling. The dremel zinged the pins right off cleanly, and I was able to do so with almost no trace of it left. Here you can see one of the badges from the back with one of the two pins cut off. They came off clean and the dremel made it easy.
I filled the back of the badges with 3M body molding tape and positioned them appropriately. I used spring clamps to hold them in place overnight. The slightly rounded surface of the side of the scoop provided a great mating surface for the trim tape on the back of the badge. You can see how closely the edges of the badge sat down on the surface of the scoop sides:
Here's a couple of pics with the badges on. As good as I could have hoped for.
Thanks for the advice guys- I always get great advice coming to this forum..
Jay
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Interesting. My car has the racing mirrors and the scoop- but I don't think it had badges. If it ever did they had to be glue on and must've fell off or been taken off before I got the car.
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Jay, measured mine, looks like 6 1/2" from front of scoop, 13/16" from bottom. See pictures
Thank you. I'm thinking mine has 2 pins, but it looks like only 1 hole on each side of your scoop?
Can you cut the pins off and use emblem glue? That would save you from drilling that new paint.
I can do that. I haven't been to worried about drilling as I don't expect to ever remove them, but I gotta admit getting a drill anywhere close to the finish is a really cringe-worthy thing. If I do drill I will remove the scoop and do it so no risk to car.
Thing I am wondering tho, If I use an adhesive that holds well, aren't I also risking the paint - on a larger area - where that stuff goes down? Our 71 had glue on letters on the trunk - after many years, some fell off, and the paint under is effectively ruined - I can't get the adhesive off without ruining the finish... conversely, the pinned letters on my 69 trunk never came off until paint, and went back in like new, so I kinda like the security of pins.
Great suggestion to cut the pins and I would use something like this, can be found in different widths https://www.amazon.com/3M-03614-Scotch-Mount-Molding-Tape/dp/B002JOVUO0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1465860728&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+automotive+adhesive+tape
You can use multiple pieces and trim to fit
I've got some of that stuff on-hand actually.... i'm gonna have a closer look tonight and see. I might be able to cut the pins and file them down, but I wanna be sure there is a nice wide flat surface to accept the vehicle trim tape.
Curious to know if you think the scope was original to your car and, if so, how did it get there? Do you have a Marti that shows some option that would include the scoop? I am trying to figure out if the scoop on my car is factory original or added later.
That's a good question. I really don't know if there is anything in the Marti (I have mine) that would indicate if the car had a scoop. My scoop does have the cool turn signal indicators in it, and there are two ovals cutout in the hood to accept the light bulb harnesses. There are also I think 9 bolt holes for the bolts that holt the scoop down. Probably the best indicator is if the hood was originally scarred similar to that or not. If not, I'd assume an "add on". I would add that the scoop is non-functional - strictly decor. Most of the ones like mine were not real air scoops. And even less predictable is whether or not the scoop gets a badge. I haven't seen anything that "dictates" one way or the other. I am pretty certain mine never had the badges, but I'm adding them anyway - because I want to. I do have a 302 original engine, so it's not like I am "false advertising"...
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Guys, I have a 69 base coupe/302. She's back form paint, and I have some new "302" badges that I want to put on - one on each side of the hood scoop. They are the "bolt-on" kind (require drilling). My scoop never had the badge originally, but I want to add the decor because I like how it looks.
Can anyone give me dimensions on where to place the badge? Hoping someone has a pre-drilled scoop and can make measurements or someone has a reference to a drawing with original placement.
Thanks in advance,
Jay
Gratuitous hood shots below:
CedAbedaPep reacted to this -
Quality techs are hard to locate. Be sure to pay well, you can't find that kind of help just anywhere. ;-)
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Hi Jay,
I forgot about that episode. That is possibly the most gorgeous red I've ever seen on a car. Thanks for throwing that into the ring!
Tom
Yep! And frankly, that's also the most gorgeous Amber I've ever seen on a red mustang... ;-) And she's back on the street (breaking up with Depp), seems she takes to 50-ish dudes with lots of cash...
I have to say that seeing that video was most likely the genesis of me moving from blue to red on my car. (the blue wasn't original although I did really like it as it was similar to acapulco blue). But the original color was NEVER going back on. I found that champagne gold or whatever it was originally to be something I was never gonna go with. I'm 3rd owner on this car after my uncle and it's nothing special in the collectors circle, so why go back to a color I don't like looking at when I'm never gonna let this old girl go. Mine's got original engine/trans and all the serials match with fenders. Good enough for me, and I can enjoy the color. :-)
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Lots of cool metallic reds out there.
House Of Colors color samples . The fine metallics look way better then the old school heavy metallics.
Adding pearl tends to make the paint look a little dingy/dirty.
http://www.houseofkolor.com/kolors/
CANDY APPLE
BRANDYWINE
These are indeed some good options Barnett! I thought by getting the "production paint" option from Ford that it would be cheaper than the other "candy" colors, but it wasn't. The shop showed me legit receipts for the paint (over $2K in paint supplies!! ACK!) The ford color is (to me) a nice mix of making the red dark enough to be pretty, but the metallic and pearl coats make it shine brilliant in the sun (it is maybe a bit too dark on a cloudy day). The ruby red was shot as a 4-stage paint. Ugh - no. I never wanted to pay for all of that.... That said, I love how it came out.
One of the best "car makeover reveal" scenes I have ever seen is here:
Amber Heard's color is Brandywine (mentioned above) as painted by Foose and his crew. Beautiful. The ruby red is a little brighter I guess, and so I am still happy with it in comparison. One thing I have found is that these colors DO NOT photograph that well. The pearl and metallic record poorly on the digital cameras I have used on my car.Anyway, I understand about the silver/grey options. I thought about them, but I wanted a bright color, as I agree that far too many car's these days pick, black, grey, tan white colors. I really like the paints that mini-cooper is putting on it's scooters these days - those guys have some good paint-taste.
Best of luck 42ITUS!! Paint is fun! Get what you like! (it was really hard for me to figure out exactly what I really wanted - I had to try and silence all of the "advice" I was getting.... picking a color is not a "logical thing")
Jay
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I recently just got my 69 coupe done in new Ford "Ruby Red Metallic" (deep red metallic color on late model F-150/Explorers/Expeditions). It's a huge change to the medium blue metallic I used to have, and it's not an "original color", but I am especially thrilled with it - perhaps more everyday, including after the first month or so of settling in with it.
This red would not play well probably with black as a secondary color (either stripes or headlight buckets/tail panel) because it is so dark, so probably not an option. Of the colors you mentioned, I prefer the Atomic Silver. It's a stronger color, and if you are into the silver/grey, it will be stronger, and contrast better with the black.
It is hard to tell if the atomic silver is glossy or flat. If glossy, even better, but if not, I'd go with the ford color which clearly is glossy. That's a personal personal preference... but I'm not a fan of the flat, and I think it kills the sparkle of a muscle car.
Good luck. Be sure you get something YOU like, and you're not picking a color that someone else thinks is cool. Be your own dog, and enjoy.
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Great news. Thanks guys. Just trying to be very careful with this new engine in the early days after rebuild, and it really surprised me when I looked in here. I appreciate the feedback a lot.
Engine compartment is looking up though:
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Guys,
I had my 302 rebuilt stock. Original heads, cylinders bored .030 w/ a mild cam. I had the engine run-in on a stand, and I have run it for maybe up to 10mins at a time numerous times (dozens). I drove the car to and from the paint shop (<10mi) with no issues but that is all.
I recently pulled the valve covers to polish them, and found it "shockingly clean". My covers didn't have any oil splashed up on them even tho I have driven the car twice:
I believe my oil pressure gauge is "good" (well as good as these gauges are - when I power on I get a normal range reading on the gauge - it is a gauge and not a light.
It this "as expected"? Seems to me that oil oughta be flying around inside the valve covers a little more.
Would like your advice on this. Thoughts?
Jay
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All,
I have converted a single exhaust system (302) to a dual 2.25in diameter. I bought a re-pop rear valence and am now looking to put the final decor on the tips. I think I would prefer a bolt on solution, but I could be convinced to go weld-on, however I am going to have to pay someone to put them on for me and that will drive up the cost.
I'd prefer to pay something in the $20-$50 per tip range, and I'd prefer stainless steel, but will consider chrome if I can be convinced it won't just rust out over the first year. I also like the rolled tip/dual walled options. I'd like a slash tip, but could be convinced otherwise. Here is some stuff I am considering:
Nice option, but pricey and only weld on:
A cylindrical bolt on (kinda pricey):
I like this Mach 1 style, but I think these are too big (wide) to fit well in the stock cut-out on the rear valence.
This one is cheap, and just might fit. It's in the mach 1 style.
Then there is a nice oval one, that might fill the cutout nicely, but doesn't reflect any heritage look
Many of the above are from 1 vendor on e-bay If you've used or have any experience with them, I would appreciate hearing about it - good or bad.Thanks for your thoughts...randallzn1 reacted to this -
Thx Bob. I did a search for this before posting, but was unable to find anything. I tried again, and I guess I am not using the right search terms. If you can find a link to the previous thread I would appreciate it.
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yeah, thanks for the tip. I am about to give up on these things. I've already bent one of the little rods (using the butt-end of a screwdriver), and tried others in other spots and they just do not wanna seem to go in. The holes are standard 1/4in holes, and it seems right, the way the plug fills the hole (kinda pops into place), but these plastic pins just won't push into the plugs to lock them in place. I even tried a little lube and taking the leading edge off of one of the rods. Still just won't go in. Tapping with a hammer seems like it should work, but it just bounces off and the rod makes no progress into the plug. IDK, I never figured it would be this difficult.
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I bought these clips to fasten the front grill, and my impression is they are just "push in" kind.. Push into the hole and then push the pin down to swell the back side and hold it in place.
I'm having more issue with part 2 of that... The little pins don't want to push in after the clip has been out thru the hole. Anyone have advice on this? Is it just more force required or ?
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Cool, but I suspect this won't work for AC cars...
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I've read around about this, and I haven't heard of anyone doing much of anything with the center dash speaker. It's kind of surprising, but most audio people say you need pairs of speakers and separation. So, my impression is people aren't utilizing this speaker position. I completely refurbed my dash and I wound up just leaving the speaker out. It seems like it would be a good place to have a sub woofer, but I don't know of anything that would fit. So in the end I did nothing for this speaker position. I'm interested to hear other ideas/recommendations too.
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Are you asking about the cylindrical steel bar that bolts to the hood that the latch grabs? I think I have one if that's what you are asking
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pics? Wondering if these might work on our 71 with dual exhaust....
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that's reasonably consistent with what I said: "These VINs are covered by the outer fenders which lay over the top of the apron and cover the VINs."
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On my 69 (San Jose, CA assembly), I found matching VINs on the top edge of the driver-side & passengers-side "inner fender apron" - the part that is formed into the side firewall and has the shock-towers bolted onto it). These VINs are covered by the outer fenders which lay over the top of the apron and cover the VINs. When you remove the outer fenders, you can see these numbers.
Both the engine and the transmission VINs are stamped on the "top side". The engine VIN can be found on the block, back near the firewall, and the transmission stamp is also on the top of the transmission housing nearer the backside then the bell-housing.
I have not found any other VIN's in the restore I have been doing. Are there any other places to look for VIN stamps on a 69?
Thanks
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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Yes thanks - it is quite satisfying when that crap disappears!.... moderators do a great job.