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JayEstes

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Posts posted by JayEstes


  1. On 4/28/2022 at 8:48 PM, Midlife said:

    One other thing about most of the aftermarket wiring kits: they are basically designed for *gasp* GM products, so you'll need to cut off your Ford connectors and splice into the pigtails.

    What you're looking for is more aligned with what I do: give you a factory correct set of wiring, all plug-n-play, with a 2 year warranty.  From there, you can modify things for 1 wire alternators, etc., as you see fit.

    If I were you, I’d pull the harnesses and send em to midlife.  They come back completely like original and you get a custom wire list.  Highly recommended service!


  2. 9 hours ago, aslanefe said:

    Printed ABS, PLA etc are not sealed; they are porous. We printed some AC ducts for aircraft at work and have to paint them afterwards to seal, otherwise they leaked. I think printed metal is sealed but it is way expensive.

    Yes, agree, I think my point was a fuel neck is not.a great place for a printed part.  I understand the stuff your talking about and would just use simple original parts because they are likely safer.


  3. There was a separate thread for window roller solutions that concluded with a 3D print solution.  http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/146028-69-conv-quarter-window-frame-bushing-roller/

    That thread was what made me think to start this one.  If folks have parts they think would be good to print, post it here.  I’m happy to see if i can help.  I also have a printer and if someone has a model and wants parts printed I’d be happy to give it a try.

     


  4. On 3/5/2022 at 7:26 PM, RogerC said:

    A shipping container for a gas turbine engine for electric power generation. That one is actually just for the core engine. size is approx 10' H x 9' W x 16' L give or take.

    Back to the OT, more parts that could be 3D printed. Fuel cap & flange.

     

    fill flange & cap.jpg

    Love the idea, but I’ve never printed anything that I would want to show on the outside of the car.

     


  5. 8 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    Jay, what do you mean that you can't "see any of my work"? So, it's free for the hobbyist or $500/yr full boat, and probably only a subscription- after a year it goes bye, bye.

    Solidworks appears to be $99/yr for the hobbyist.  Their standard (low end) license is now about 4k and 1.4k/yr for maintenance (updates). I didn't check to see if that is an actual copy you can use forever, or if its really a subscription. I sure don't use it enough to pay that much.

    Fun stuff!

    Sorry I meant "I can't sell any of my work".  I'll go edit the post...


  6. 3 hours ago, RogerC said:

    I use NX12 at work but have an old version of Solidworks at home.

    Some Solidworks stuff

     

     

     

    Those are awesome!  Did you do that seat from scratch?  The Wheel looks fantastic,  I want to design my own console for the car, but I'm having trouble figuring out how to get the complex geometry of the humps/seat and dash into the model to build on...


  7. 7 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    We had a printer at work about 20 years ago. I don't recall the printer brand. Our Cad program was Solidworks. Many of the programs are subscription only now and crazy expensive. What do you have?

    I've got a hobbyist license for Autodesk Fusion360.  Its fantastic.  Cross-platform (I'm using it on a Mac) and really quite intuitive considering its complexity.  I can't sell any of my work from it based on the license, but I don't need to really.  I do enjoy designing things in it though.  I done enough now I'm "dangerous".  LOL.  I think they want it to be a solid works competitor, but I don't think it's achieved that goal yet - although it's not been out all that long.  I can't say enough good about it.


  8. Anyone interested in starting a 3D printing thread?  I've got a decent printer at home, and since I got it I have taught myself some CAD.  I think it would be nice to have a library of parts for the mustang, and those of us that can make them, can print stuff in our spare time, and provide to other users.  I recently wanted a box to contain a fuel-gauge calibration device, and I created this in about an hours worth of CAD and then some longer hours printing:

    1083074464_MetermatchboxforPennyv2.thumb.png.4cf0f7535034603823a66b87aa55d1f9.png

    It's not perfect, but it allowed me to use an existing bolt to hold down the device, and store the wires/connections in the trunk.  Here it is installed:

    IMG_4029.jpeg.b284cf71551a3c5985152180c2863ec1.jpeg

    It seems to me there is a need for 3D printing stuff for ourselves, and as we design the parts we can perhaps keep a library of them somewhere, and if people need one or several, those of us with time and printers can help out.

    What do you all think?

    Jay


  9. On 2/24/2022 at 1:03 PM, Wild_pony said:

    He cant touch my shorts, but I will probably be sending him a few harnesses to rebuild. That's a cool service for sure. 

    They come back perfect, and with a documented wire-list specifically for your car.  Its a Waaaay better deal than replacing all the wiring IMHO.


  10. That's a really interesting fix!  Glad it solved the problem for you, but I'm still a little puzzled at how it works.  The pin you refer to that is supposed to engage in the notch, looks like it's barely only engaged by a half diameter of the pin.  It's almost like the turn signal switch has placed that pin at the wrong radio from the center of the steering column - a little bit too large of a diameter.  It looks like your 3D print has effectively lengthened the slot, so the pin can settle down properly in there.  All that kind of makes me wonder if your switch is original, and is it the right size.  These steering wheel and turning signal mechanisms though... they are cheap and clunky - that's for sure.  I sure like you adaptation to give that pin a home - easily done.

    You should keep an eye on that thing for wear.. Not sure what material you used, but it is all pretty tough and slick, but It could be that the metal will wear it down.  It's always easy to drop in a replacement I guess.... Just requires eom disassembly.

    Congrats on a useful fix, and post back here with any updates.  Great adaptation!  


  11. 9 hours ago, det0326 said:

    Just wondering, have u replaced the sender in the tank?

    well, yes, and no.  The original one that was always wrong has been replaced by a cheap chinese repro which is always wrong.  Don't get me wrong, when you fill the tank it says "way full"... and it stays there until it starts to go down, which is quick, and then it says empty for a a couple of days worth of driving before it goes out.  Both were kinda the same, but never right.  I'm kinda anal, and I feel, like when I fill the tank, it should point to the F, and then juuuuuust before i am completely out of gas it should point to the E.  I know that's being kinda picky, but I'm actually trying to get it to behave correctly.

    SO, I like this stupid-expensive calibration tool, which makes it behave how I feel it should - even though I probably oughta fill the tank as soon as it goes below half-full like my dad always said....


  12. Those are some great points of feedback - thank you both.  I had a look around and thought about it some while waiting on the feedback, and as you guys say,  the only way I could really do it without cutting into the harness is to buy another wire with matching bullets connectors, and clip the ends of it to patch it in.  If I can find some bullet connectors that work at the sender, I think i am leaning to put the meter match in the trunk.  It turns out I have power in the truck already because I put an amp in the trunk.  I can grab a good ground from a screw holding the trunk down.  Then, I just need to either snip the harness with the sender lead, or create a pigtail with the same connector as the sender.  This gives me easy access to the device, and a simple install I think.  

    If anyone knows where i could find matching male and female bullet connectors for cheap I would appreciate the tip.

    Jay


  13. Howdy ya’ll.  I finally bought a Tanks Inc. “MeterMatch” to improve my gas gauge readings.  So I’m ready to put this guy in but I’m trying to figure the best place to put it.  I am a little reticent to cut the original harness, but I’ve got to be able to read the ohms from the sender.  I’m also wanting to NOT work under the freaking dash.

    So what I’m really looking for is best place to tap into the readings from the gauge, and have a local spot to hold the little module in place.

    Advice, suggestions?  Midlife? Anyone?

    image.thumb.jpg.40fb4a5a6e6fd2652685cad20c0108dd.jpg


  14. Ive got a CAD tool, and some limited self-taught skills.  The hard part here is getting the existing shape right into the CAD to start from.  I did see a video on how to use an iphone ot build a 3D mesh though.  Would be fun to build this thing in CAD and have one fabbed.  It would have to be forged from pot metal and chromed/polished.  Can't imagine that would be easy tor cheap to get from a vendor.  As usual the trouble with these things is there isn't much  of a market.  I'm interested in tinkering with it perhaps...


  15. 16 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

    I see the Rust-Oleum even has a professional grade of this stuff that is a 2k epoxy, but it appears to be very textured.

    Thats interesting.  I really like the stuff I have without the texturing.  I'm amazed at how hard the stuff is.  even behind the wheels, rocks don't affect it much.  Minor nics there are 15kmi is good enough for me.

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