JayEstes
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Posts posted by JayEstes
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....and.. MY you have EXCELLENT taste in paint color!! let me guess Ruby Red Metallic?
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If it is for 69, I would love to have it! Happy to pay shipping. Compute to 77546 and let me know, I can Venmo/payal you some $
Thanks for offering it up! Merry Christmas! -
Damn. It must be my "wicked ways", but I've bought batts for several cars, and rarely get more than 4 yrs out of anything. Momma always said I needed to behave better....
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Well that is amazing. But prep yourself, because the new Diehard will die very near to the warranty period and not longer. This last time I bought an AGM (absorbent glass mat) battery rather than the regular lead acid battery design. So far, I have had it hold charge much better between starts (which can be a month or so between sometimes). Good luck with your new battery, but save your pennies for about 3 yrs down the road - it will almost surely be time to replace the one you just put in....
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4 hours ago, Mike65 said:What was the problem my post helped you with? The zip ties are temp until I am done. They are there to hold the harness in place.
I posted pics of my wiring and folks pointed out I had the LHS reverse light run thru the floor improperly. I found out where it should be routed and fixed it!
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2 hours ago, Mike65 said:Thanks to those who posted pics of the trunk harness routing. Today I routed the trunk wire harness & ran the ground wires for the tail lights, & side lights to the ground screw on the trunk latch support. Little at a time.
Awesome! (Now please go clip that zip tie!). [sorry- pet peeve]. Thanks to your post I fixed a problem I didn’t know I had!
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12 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:Jay, do you have the stock 2-1/4 dual exhaust with the resonators up front and the transverse muffler positioned on edge between the pumpkin and the fuel tank? I've often wondered how close that gets to the sender wire, but it makes sense that there would be less exposure to the muffler coming out the center than running across the tank from the side.
Well, sure enough, I had my harness routed improperly. I never knew about that routing hole in the left side pocket- but it’s in the exact right place. So I fixed it thanks to everyone. And No, that reverse light harness is never near either exhaust line line I mentioned.
Per the dual exhaust- I never knew there was a transverse muffler option. I pulled the original crappy exhaust manifolds and single line I had and put cast iron headers with 2 separate 2.25 exhaust lines on each side with h-pipe.
thanks Mike for asking the question- I’m getting more out of this than I put in!
Jay
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
On 6/7/2023 at 11:09 PM, Midlife said:There are at least 3 variants of the 69/70 fuel lines, which makes my life a mess. One variant is specific with dual exhaust. I really can't say what the reproductions intend to duplicate, as I don't have enough experience with them. Basically, the dual exhaust version has the fuel line grommet in the center of the tank area behind the tank; the other two are on the passenger side drop-off.
Much of what the above posts may be showing are these variants...just my $.03 on the matter.
You know, my coupe was a single exhaust, but I converted it to dual exhaust (only because I wanted to). My fuel gauge wire penetrates the center, forward of the fuel tank, after it goes thru my gauge calibrator. Does the fact that I now have a dual exhaust mean that maybe I shouldn't go thru the hole in the back of the drop-off? Will the exhaust now on that get the wire too hot and melt the insulation? I'm gonna look at this this weekend - and see what is up - been too busy to get out there until now....
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9 hours ago, aslanefe said:Jay, is that the reverse light wire going through the hole above frame rail on this picture? There should not be any wires going through that hole, reverse light wires goes out through holes towards the back bottom of trunk drop off.
I have to say I am not sure but I do believe it is. It could be that I have that routed wrong, and it should go where you say - I'll have to check and let you know. There aren't a lot of instructions on this stuff - I could have gotten it wrong.
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From up over the left wheel:
left tail light:
gas gauge routing:
note I have spliced in a gas gauge calibration device here. It’s in the 3d printed box I made for it there. It’s held down by one of the tank bolts. The wood is there to kind of even up the floor for the vinyl
this is the running of the tail light harness from the left side headed over to the right side.
Hope these help some!!
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Had a surprising weekend with my stang 'Penny' guys. I had signed up for the Keels & Wheels "Concourse de' Elegance" show in Seabrook, TX. Ive been twice before (last before covid), but this show is full of amazing vehicles, and I have been happy they let me even show.
Well, I wanted to see if there was anything I could do to "up my game" in a short amount of time, and I noticed that the trunk was 10pts of the score. I've never liked the stock treatment and said I wouldn't do it, but I never seem to get around to "doing it right" like I said I would. So, to try to improve my score I bought the stock trunk liner, jack bag, and spare-tire cover. Spent a little bit of time laying it in there, and trying to make it look decent. Came out like this:
All I had to say was: "Well, it certainly looks better than nothing/what I had". So I went with it.
The surprise came when I checked the judges sheet Sunday afternoon: "Best in Class"!! Unbelievable!
I've only put the car in maybe a half-dozen shows, and I've never done better than second place anywhere. But the real surprise is that the show in Seabrook is one of the more prestigious shows (at least around here).
It rained on Saturday, but didn't take any sunshine out of the day for me. Aaron Shelby was here, and gave me a big "congrats" when I left the show - certainly an amazing day for me:
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There is one other component in the system that you can check. It's the brake proportioning valve for the rears. It is something to check, but if no leaks and pedal goes to floor, I think Mike65's suggestion makes most sense. You may need to pull the booster and see it if has fluid in it. If you put the pedal to the floor fluid is leaking past some seal somewhere. if you do that several times does the fluid level go down, or stay same? If it stays same, I think it would have to mean master has a seal that is not working. If fluid level is going down, it must be going into the booster.
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Mine was cracked and it wasn't all obvious it was until I tried to pull it out of the booster, and it broke. Make sure you get the right size hoses to go with it. It should go from the booster into the main vac port on the back/top of the engine. This hose is very important to overall vacuum, as it is a larger size, and leaks have a big effect. It won't cost you but a little more to get the hose replaced.
Mountaineerfan reacted to this -
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On 4/28/2022 at 8:48 PM, Midlife said:One other thing about most of the aftermarket wiring kits: they are basically designed for *gasp* GM products, so you'll need to cut off your Ford connectors and splice into the pigtails.
What you're looking for is more aligned with what I do: give you a factory correct set of wiring, all plug-n-play, with a 2 year warranty. From there, you can modify things for 1 wire alternators, etc., as you see fit.
If I were you, I’d pull the harnesses and send em to midlife. They come back completely like original and you get a custom wire list. Highly recommended service!
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9 hours ago, aslanefe said:Printed ABS, PLA etc are not sealed; they are porous. We printed some AC ducts for aircraft at work and have to paint them afterwards to seal, otherwise they leaked. I think printed metal is sealed but it is way expensive.
Yes, agree, I think my point was a fuel neck is not.a great place for a printed part. I understand the stuff your talking about and would just use simple original parts because they are likely safer.
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There was a separate thread for window roller solutions that concluded with a 3D print solution. http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/146028-69-conv-quarter-window-frame-bushing-roller/
That thread was what made me think to start this one. If folks have parts they think would be good to print, post it here. I’m happy to see if i can help. I also have a printer and if someone has a model and wants parts printed I’d be happy to give it a try.
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I love the 3D print solution here. Reading this made me start a thread on 3D printing. If these models are shareable and not proprietary, I’m looking for a place we can upload them together. Also, if others need these parts, I have a printer and would be happy to print them for folks that might want them.
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On 3/5/2022 at 7:26 PM, RogerC said:A shipping container for a gas turbine engine for electric power generation. That one is actually just for the core engine. size is approx 10' H x 9' W x 16' L give or take.
Back to the OT, more parts that could be 3D printed. Fuel cap & flange.
Love the idea, but I’ve never printed anything that I would want to show on the outside of the car.
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On 3/5/2022 at 7:46 PM, RogerC said:plastic receptacle with fuel cap & flange.
Do you mean the neck inside the trunk? Would that actually line up with the gas tank opening?
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3 hours ago, RogerC said:I use NX12 at work but have an old version of Solidworks at home.
Some Solidworks stuff
Did you create this badge in CAD and then have it manufactured?
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8 minutes ago, Mach1 Driver said:Jay, what do you mean that you can't "see any of my work"? So, it's free for the hobbyist or $500/yr full boat, and probably only a subscription- after a year it goes bye, bye.
Solidworks appears to be $99/yr for the hobbyist. Their standard (low end) license is now about 4k and 1.4k/yr for maintenance (updates). I didn't check to see if that is an actual copy you can use forever, or if its really a subscription. I sure don't use it enough to pay that much.
Fun stuff!
Sorry I meant "I can't sell any of my work". I'll go edit the post...
Turning kick panel vent openings into speaker enclosures
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
I've done this as well, and I may be the only idiot to have tried to save the vent feature, AND put a 5.25 speaker hovering in the opening. I know, I know..... the water! well, I try not to drive my girl in the rain much if ever, and it hasn't been a problem for me yet. I actually built a piece of bracketry out of sheet metal that spanned the vent opening, but in order to keep the airflow, I used 1/2in standoffs to mount the bracket away from the wall. This allows air to flow in and around the speaker if you've slid the vent open. It reduces the overall airflow, but I usually didn't want it going at full blast anyway. I also opened all the area around the speaker in the bracket to let as much air thru as it could handle, I'm really happy with the outcome.
I built a cover out of a metal speaker cover, and dressed the edges with some flexible trim. It looks decent, gives me good sound up front, and I haven't shut down my old louvers or changed any interior panels. If I were doing this these days I would design a plastic 3D printed speaker holder, but this was before I could CAD in Fusion, and had a 3D printer.
Now, the VERY astute of you will say: "Ahhh.... but what about THE EMERGENCY BRAKE?!?!?!" like you got me or something.... It DID interfere with that, and you know what I did? I installed 5/8in tall steel spacers between the wall and E-brake bracket mount! This worked really well! I also makes it easier to get your foot on the e-brake. Now, I don't have a stick-shift. Someone might argue that the positioning of this pedal to right 5/8in might bother a stick driver. IDK, it's possible, but I can't tell its much different, and I'm really satisfied with how everything came out.
Call me crazy.