JayEstes

I've done this as well, and I may be the only idiot to have tried to save the vent feature, AND put a 5.25 speaker hovering in the opening. I know, I know..... the water! well, I try not to drive my girl in the rain much if ever, and it hasn't been a problem for me yet. I actually built a piece of bracketry out of sheet metal that spanned the vent opening, but in order to keep the airflow, I used 1/2in standoffs to mount the bracket away from the wall. This allows air to flow in and around the speaker if you've slid the vent open. It reduces the overall airflow, but I usually didn't want it going at full blast anyway. I also opened all the area around the speaker in the bracket to let as much air thru as it could handle, I'm really happy with the outcome. I built a cover out of a metal speaker cover, and dressed the edges with some flexible trim. It looks decent, gives me good sound up front, and I haven't shut down my old louvers or changed any interior panels. If I were doing this these days I would design a plastic 3D printed speaker holder, but this was before I could CAD in Fusion, and had a 3D printer. Now, the VERY astute of you will say: "Ahhh.... but what about THE EMERGENCY BRAKE?!?!?!" like you got me or something.... It DID interfere with that, and you know what I did? I installed 5/8in tall steel spacers between the wall and E-brake bracket mount! This worked really well! I also makes it easier to get your foot on the e-brake. Now, I don't have a stick-shift. Someone might argue that the positioning of this pedal to right 5/8in might bother a stick driver. IDK, it's possible, but I can't tell its much different, and I'm really satisfied with how everything came out. Call me crazy.

....and.. MY you have EXCELLENT taste in paint color!! let me guess Ruby Red Metallic?

If it is for 69, I would love to have it! Happy to pay shipping. Compute to 77546 and let me know, I can Venmo/payal you some $ Thanks for offering it up! Merry Christmas!

Damn. It must be my "wicked ways", but I've bought batts for several cars, and rarely get more than 4 yrs out of anything. Momma always said I needed to behave better....

Well that is amazing. But prep yourself, because the new Diehard will die very near to the warranty period and not longer. This last time I bought an AGM (absorbent glass mat) battery rather than the regular lead acid battery design. So far, I have had it hold charge much better between starts (which can be a month or so between sometimes). Good luck with your new battery, but save your pennies for about 3 yrs down the road - it will almost surely be time to replace the one you just put in....

I posted pics of my wiring and folks pointed out I had the LHS reverse light run thru the floor improperly. I found out where it should be routed and fixed it!

Awesome! (Now please go clip that zip tie!). [sorry- pet peeve]. Thanks to your post I fixed a problem I didn’t know I had!

Well, sure enough, I had my harness routed improperly. I never knew about that routing hole in the left side pocket- but it’s in the exact right place. So I fixed it thanks to everyone. And No, that reverse light harness is never near either exhaust line line I mentioned. Per the dual exhaust- I never knew there was a transverse muffler option. I pulled the original crappy exhaust manifolds and single line I had and put cast iron headers with 2 separate 2.25 exhaust lines on each side with h-pipe. thanks Mike for asking the question- I’m getting more out of this than I put in! Jay

You know, my coupe was a single exhaust, but I converted it to dual exhaust (only because I wanted to). My fuel gauge wire penetrates the center, forward of the fuel tank, after it goes thru my gauge calibrator. Does the fact that I now have a dual exhaust mean that maybe I shouldn't go thru the hole in the back of the drop-off? Will the exhaust now on that get the wire too hot and melt the insulation? I'm gonna look at this this weekend - and see what is up - been too busy to get out there until now....

I have to say I am not sure but I do believe it is. It could be that I have that routed wrong, and it should go where you say - I'll have to check and let you know. There aren't a lot of instructions on this stuff - I could have gotten it wrong.

From up over the left wheel: left tail light: gas gauge routing: note I have spliced in a gas gauge calibration device here. It’s in the 3d printed box I made for it there. It’s held down by one of the tank bolts. The wood is there to kind of even up the floor for the vinyl this is the running of the tail light harness from the left side headed over to the right side. Hope these help some!!

Looking good there Mike. I coated the interior of mine with black rattle can truckbed liner. Stuff is as hard as nails and has a nice mottled finish to hide a lot of the metal unevenness. YMMV…

Had a surprising weekend with my stang 'Penny' guys. I had signed up for the Keels & Wheels "Concourse de' Elegance" show in Seabrook, TX. Ive been twice before (last before covid), but this show is full of amazing vehicles, and I have been happy they let me even show. Well, I wanted to see if there was anything I could do to "up my game" in a short amount of time, and I noticed that the trunk was 10pts of the score. I've never liked the stock treatment and said I wouldn't do it, but I never seem to get around to "doing it right" like I said I would. So, to try to improve my score I bought the stock trunk liner, jack bag, and spare-tire cover. Spent a little bit of time laying it in there, and trying to make it look decent. Came out like this: All I had to say was: "Well, it certainly looks better than nothing/what I had". So I went with it. The surprise came when I checked the judges sheet Sunday afternoon: "Best in Class"!! Unbelievable! I've only put the car in maybe a half-dozen shows, and I've never done better than second place anywhere. But the real surprise is that the show in Seabrook is one of the more prestigious shows (at least around here). It rained on Saturday, but didn't take any sunshine out of the day for me. Aaron Shelby was here, and gave me a big "congrats" when I left the show - certainly an amazing day for me:

There is one other component in the system that you can check. It's the brake proportioning valve for the rears. It is something to check, but if no leaks and pedal goes to floor, I think Mike65's suggestion makes most sense. You may need to pull the booster and see it if has fluid in it. If you put the pedal to the floor fluid is leaking past some seal somewhere. if you do that several times does the fluid level go down, or stay same? If it stays same, I think it would have to mean master has a seal that is not working. If fluid level is going down, it must be going into the booster.

Mine was cracked and it wasn't all obvious it was until I tried to pull it out of the booster, and it broke. Make sure you get the right size hoses to go with it. It should go from the booster into the main vac port on the back/top of the engine. This hose is very important to overall vacuum, as it is a larger size, and leaks have a big effect. It won't cost you but a little more to get the hose replaced.