Boss302

sorry for late reply, installed a new water temp sender unit on the old emissions port, and that sucker was corroded, big time, finally got it on and looks nice under the hood, and went back and used a ferrule piece to tightly screw on the mechanical oil pressure gauge, heat shrinked tubing around it AND brushed on that liquid electrical tape stuff around the compressor nut and where the copper tube goes in..so far no more leaks, and pressure is good... Now...the location.. My car has A/C, so its a TIGHT..TIGHT fit for anything there.. Radio (aftermarket alpine, with a cheesy faceplate, which ill replace later...)the Heat/AC controls, under that is something like 1" of space.... the Top speaker on the dash...isnt functioning, but i dont want to rip that apart, and i have the upgraded dash, with the optional middle vents that work...just under those is some space...but i dont know...i mean.. if it was all electrical, i would them all in there, voltmeter,oil pressure(electronic) and water temp) But the oil pressure is mechanical, so somewhere away from electronics...wires..so theres no weird crazy spark that ignites any oil spilled over and puddled some where.. they are in a triple gauge pod, which i might brake up..still unsure Voltmeter somewhere near drivers side..MAYBE a pillar Pod, if theres one that ACTUALLY fits and not have any gaps or loose.. The Water Temp, i actually, fished it through the heater hose from inside, under the passenger side, the box underneath that has a hose that leads out side..OEM? or custom i dont know.. but i cut a hole in it, and put it back up against the box, sealed it with some auto black silicone sealant around the holes and spread more around where i cut to fish the water temp wire through...running from the back of the engine bay following a brake line on the right side, then up, over the valve covers and on to the water neck port above the water pump...success! now instead of FACTORY temp that points to "E" i can now see it actually reads 160degrees the oil was already ran before i got the car, its above and to the right of the gas pedal then swings to the passenger side and curves around the a/c controls on the passenger side to hook into the gauge i MIGHT, use a SINGLE gauge mount for the oil and stick it on its side, just under the tach gauge... later, i will replace the mechanical OIL pressure with a electronic one then ill have need for a pillar pod (if theres a pillar pod that would fit nice and snug

so my 69 grande w/deluxe was more difficult to decide where to mount this triple gauge pod. the pod: has anyone done this and where did you install yours? or is there a better, Modded version that fits snug and wont get bumped into? dont have a middle console..thought about getting one...but havent decided yet. I obviously cant stick this near the steering column...or anywhere near the drivers side... only other option is the passenger side.. I dont know..any ideas? thanks. heres my inside, you can see the Tach, just under that is the current spot,lol

pics..links?>

thanks ill give it a go...

So my old gauge,equss tri-pod was leaking...bought a new one, Sunpro tri-pod, both are Mechanical... new: Info about it click here I unscrewed the copper tubing off the old one (equus gauge) and there wasnt a ferrule...thingy, just the nut and the copper tubing... I proceeded to attach the copper tubing to the new gauge, tried it first with the ferrule thingy, the ferrule woldnt snap on right or fit on, and the copper tubing would just slip out the back. so now its just the nut with the copper tube through it and in the gauge, the end of the copper tube, near the gauge, i stuck a Phillips head in it to enlarge it so it wouldnt slip out and pull out from the nut...before i secured it, i wrapped some heatshrink tubing on it,after i screwed it down and made sure it was in place, i heated the stuff and it shrank...its holding for now..but i havent turned on the car to test it, b/c i was replacing radiator and hose. question is, how to properly attach the copper wire to the new gauge and how does the ferrule attach? it just wouldnt pop on and didnt want to force it. another question: Should i just drop mechanical and for electrical, seems better? But is there a good setup,which ones the best..would like to stick with sunpro same as the one i got, size,color, so i can just pop it in. -i did a search on here and google, didnt find anything related to my issue...

sweet,thanks! i needed a part number...i just ordered a owners manual at MU. i saw the one on the cougar site, but no picture....but miller sounds good. i just ordered a bunch of stuff from Mustangs Unlimited, ill call them tomorrow and see...

So like many of the cars, mine didnt come with one... mine: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Im wanting add a few things, and would want to use that post,instead running it through the firewall, and connect it to the solenoid + with a inline fuse... I found the piece: ACCESSORY FUSE BOX BUS BAR @ eBay and now Where to put from the front view But, from the back, how is it installed... id like to tackle this in one day or sitting and not wonder or fumble around. later ill probably have someone install a upgrade harness. im trying to get this installed and then see about another blade fuse next to it like this: but for now, just getting it properly installed, so i can use the cigar lighter tied into it ,and the gauges' lights..and voltmeter i know i could run straight through the wall and on the sol.+ but would rather try this w/o having to do much if any upgrading or modding.

yea, i found them at Mustangs Unlimited http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=D2633+01 it just threw me off, the pull cup looked like the door handle cup.. i was trying to look for the "DELETE" button for my thread here...but no go..oh well.

the drivers side, has the pull cup... just NOT the door handle cup that sits under the handle.. ive searched for it, but i see the whole piece...except mine is in 2 pieces, not one whole one, either way is fine, i dont care. But they dont show the handle cup part, look at the picrture, highlighted in RED, is the other cup that goes with the door handle.. UPDATE: found it. ...wheres the thread DELETE button>?

well, that seems easier to tap into that wire, by any chance, do you know what the color would be? shunt is more of a hassle, but for now ill splice, then when i plan on getting my engine re-tuned,painted,shiny'd up, ill upgrade to the blade wire kit. i took a picture of mine.. the link:http://imageshack.us/f/402/sam0943n.jpg/

when you say left side, is that as though the FuseBlock was upright? mines upside down, so that would be on the right... is that the post, thats for Accessory (optional) as shown in the picture? this is my FB, grabbed the image off the net.. i dont have the manual, so i dont know what fuse#2 is... but i found this image just now, i think its accurate.. im also adding a 15amp IN-LINE blade fuse, for the power of the cigar lighter...15amp is high enuff to use the cell phone charger,radar detector, i dont smoke, and dont let anyone smoke in my car, so i dont think there will be any real use for the actual cigar lighter.

Does anyone have a page that list the fuseboxes used on the 69's (grande if required) I tested the cigarette lighter,using the 20amp "flashers" spot, but im trying to attach a a RED wire to the TUBE fuses... Is there a special setup to solder on the red wire to something then snap in a piece to lock into the tube fuse, some how? thanks.

I couldn't wait..went to autozone, bought a universal one,it didn't say ford on it, oh well.. Plugged it into the 14amp fuse....couldn't see a #6 spot...just all amp numbers, tried finding one that showed what and where the fuses are... Once I plugged it in,it worked...radar detector, phone charger,all worked... Then I tried the lighter itself...POP! Goes a fuse....maybe to much... So I switched the wire to where it says,"flashers" 20amp....and it worked. Plugged and tested it all...the lighter was done getting hot in 5 seconds I guess the oem lighter uses less amp then todays lighters. ..turned on the flashers..instead of blinking...they were solid....but when do I user flashers. So ill make it permanent tomorrow.

Thank Georgia for classic and antique laws...no emissions..at all. I thought that was another temp port I could use.. It was right on the water pump... Thanks alot!

just a quick question and a second look... whats this circled in RED, thats attached on top the water pump... can it come off, seeing how nothing is using it.. and cant i attach the Water Temp Sender unit there? tried buying that t fitting from that VDO site, but theres NO buy option...nothing to buy it..even created an account..but, i got one from ace...the helpful place.

cool thanks...ordered the parts..just waiting now.

to connect the power to it... those are by default in the accessory fuse? or a cigar lighter fuse...or is it on solenoid

haha... not that bad, something along the lines of back pressure, or the engine cant adjust to the pressure...i shrugged it off... but thanks...

like this... http://www.vdo-gauges.com/adapters-fittings/brass-t-adapter-1-8-27nptf.html

1969 Grande "deluxe" the socket is there, so is the knob, What or where does it hook up to, i felt the back, but no wires, so its missing a wire..or something.. But what is the wire or something.. google isnt popping up with the best results.. And i dont want to fumble around back there and break something Does it need a power wire to a ignition source, like solenoid or accessories? but then what about grounding it. ill be basically using it for, radar detector...cell phone charger...stuff like that.. or should i buy a 12v power outlet and stick that somewhere...or will the stock factory lighter provide enuff...

Thanks! I didnt think so, but some of my friends said otherwise...

he will just remove the rust, weld it and spray that heat resistant paint stuff. my only concern is the compression, back pressure with out it.

hey... my muffler,flowmaster,decided to fall off due to rust... ..there are 2 mufflers,left/right side, the left one...im sure will fall off...sooner or later. the Right one (passenger side) was the one that fell off at the seams because of rust. i could have a friend weld the muffler back on to the pipe, for around $50 or keep it off, and wait till i can get a NEW exhaust system put on for around $290.. keeping the muffler OFF (the passenger side one), and now just straight pipe from exhaust mani, all the way back behind the wheel, where it broke off, wont affect the compression that much...would it? i dont race it, but occasionally will drive it, short distances.... its a delima.. weld the old muffler back on to the pipe, later just redoing the exhaust pipes or leave it off, wait til new exhaust comes.. or will the compression ruin things, since theres no muffler... grande:302,v8 edelbrock performance 289 IM. holley carb 600cfm

the intake manifold is a Edelbrock performance 289...it was a little dirty...i guess, ill wrap all the important parts up, and pressure wash it all after i spray degrease on it first.. theres One port in the back behind the carb, but someone said its a vacuum port, the album: http://imageshack.us/g/855/97489555.jpg/ the picture:http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/850/edelbrockperf289imbackp.jpg/

i know in europe they are illegal.. but so far, for now, those lights,rapid brake,sequential, are legal.