Boss302
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Posts posted by Boss302
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i did a search couldnt find anything..
ive checked my battery, its fine...take off the neg wire while running, car still runs...
but every couple days, or sometimes weeks, ill get in, and shes dead :(
i charge her up and shes purring again..
i asked a local friend, he said brake/tail light switch were a common problem on them..
But wouldnt my tail lights stay on, or light glow...
just where is this switch, if it is that...
thanks,.
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my 69 grande 302 2bbl bored 60/, is factory, running at the "E" on TEMP, or 160 with the mechanical one, thats driving...crusing..etc. some what average.
if i sit in hot weather, traffic light..waiting...gawd...it gets to 180 -
still average. doesnt OH, or cause problems. ill be on the highway going 60mph, until some idiot pulls near me and wants to test me, then i floor to about 90mph, hahaha, still running good, at 160 temp, though the tires have a bubble iin them, so it vibrates over 50mph
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interesting...across the top of the window area, and down then looped thru a door opening...
i used ONE zip tie, gawd i use a shit load of those all the time...but thought, eh, ONE should do it, and be safe enough where it would hang.
ill have to try what rangerdoc did to his...
i checked Mustangs Unlimited...still labeled as 69/70
thanks
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Well, what I can tell you is that the mirror you have pictured here is a 70 mirror. And if you are using it in a 69 door panel then it will angle into the window's path. The 69 Mirror has a right angled joystick. The 70 mirror is straight. The 70 door panel is molded differently than the 69. Prolly to make up for the different joystick. Hope that helps. Brucemake sense...just wish it wouldnt say SPORTS MIRROR 69/70
that was a while ago though...oh well.
thanks
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i hope i explained it well enough in the title...
So,its been nagging me...since i took off the driverside door, i found the mirrior control metal tube/rod, was in the way of the window.
i though i had in place, when i had the door panel back on...needless to say i was wrong
When i roll the window down, it goes about 5inches, and snags on the mirrior control rod, you can see the control switch move when this happens...now since my window isnt on the track right, ill just slide the window towards the back, most of the time the rod is free from the snag, and ill roll it all the way down.
Is there a special way to properly secure it to the door panel, or a added piece to tie it down...or a prope way to route the metal control rod.
Anyone else have this issue? and how did you resolve it?
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i found some of my front quarter panels were not tighten, and in some cases i just inserted a rubber piece between the body and the panel.
Also the bumper seemed to never want to get perfectly tight.
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that mustang restore guy, the doc, he has a few videos on this same issue,
testing the alternator, egine on and running, put in park,open the hood, disconnect the NEG cable from the battery, if the car stays on, then the alt is working...
to check the regulator, he mentioned jumping some power pins...i didnt want to risk it..but since these are Not new cars with ECM or any computers in them should be fine.
recently i had the same issue, didnt drive for over a week, battery was dead.
charged it...for a couple hours, at the battery terminal i used a multimeter, it read 17.5v then it started Right up.
the next day it was 17.4.8- so theres a drain, but soo small, its hard to find.
everyone says 13-14v, but this is what works.
ill end up replacing the alt and voltage reg. ive heard in the past, replace ONE, mise well replace the other...one bad could make things worse for the other.
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whats a good voltage regulator to get..any suggestions?
the current one has no names,numbers..just silver box approx: 2" thick
and 4" wide/tall
it looks old, probably atleast 10yrs...maybe the end of its lifespan
its not a show car, so need to be a special version or all shiny..etc
but if its a few dollars or $10 difference, i wouldnt mind.
....is there a safe way to test the V.Reg.?
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whats a good voltage regulator to get..any suggestions?
the current one has no names,numbers..just silver box approx: 2" thick
and 4" wide/tall
it looks old, probably atleast 10yrs...maybe the end of its lifespan
its not a show car, so need to be a special version or all shiny..etc
but if its a few dollars or $10 difference, i wouldnt mind.
....is there a safe way to test the V.Reg.?
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its a 4month old battery...but, yea after sitting, it reads 17.5v
maybe the alternator is over charging it...
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its a 4month old battery...but, yea after sitting, it reads 17.5v
maybe the alternator is over charging it...
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ok ran the checks, im getting 0.00 on mamps
i drove it around some, parked it, sat for 4 hours now, and the battery reads,
17.5v using my mutlimeter on volts setting
but if i plug in my battery tester to the cigar lighter it reads around 14 driving...
when i idle, it reads 13.5'ish(v)
i DO have the factory Clock...but it only wants to work at random times..lol might be a bad wire....but thats a pain in the ass to get off and fix anything...(unless theres a trick to it all)
i had the car parked, in the garage, for 4 days..maybe 5..
usually it will be 2..3 MAX, and it starts..sure ill pump some gas in to the carb to prime it. but it starts right up.
i guess, ill just check it ever so often with that trick for checking with multimeter with neg cable and neg post.
thanks.
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ok ran the checks, im getting 0.00 on mamps
i drove it around some, parked it, sat for 4 hours now, and the battery reads,
17.5v using my mutlimeter on volts setting
but if i plug in my battery tester to the cigar lighter it reads around 14 driving...
when i idle, it reads 13.5'ish(v)
i DO have the factory Clock...but it only wants to work at random times..lol might be a bad wire....but thats a pain in the ass to get off and fix anything...(unless theres a trick to it all)
i had the car parked, in the garage, for 4 days..maybe 5..
usually it will be 2..3 MAX, and it starts..sure ill pump some gas in to the carb to prime it. but it starts right up.
i guess, ill just check it ever so often with that trick for checking with multimeter with neg cable and neg post.
thanks.
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+1 to what Powershift said.Set your meter to milliamps. Hook the (+) red lead to the disconnected negative battery cable. Hook the (-) black lead to the negative battery post. You shouldn't see any current flow.
I have a Sunpro mini-tach that was drawing a small parasitic loss until i moved it to a switched 12V to stop it. Kept draining the battery.
that was going to be my 2nd question, ma or v, thanks.
for my imports and offroad vehicles, ive always used optima, red or yellow, NEVER had an issue, i swear by them,no leaks,no drains, always started, day or night wet,cold,frozen...
SunPro..eh?
Well, i have a triple gauge pod, VoltMeter,Oil(mechanical) and Water temp.
the VoltMeter is wired to the Accessory Post, and a separate wire is also attached from the cigar lighter. But they shut off once the key is "OFF"
ill do that though..tomorrow
thanks.
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+1 to what Powershift said.Set your meter to milliamps. Hook the (+) red lead to the disconnected negative battery cable. Hook the (-) black lead to the negative battery post. You shouldn't see any current flow.
I have a Sunpro mini-tach that was drawing a small parasitic loss until i moved it to a switched 12V to stop it. Kept draining the battery.
that was going to be my 2nd question, ma or v, thanks.
for my imports and offroad vehicles, ive always used optima, red or yellow, NEVER had an issue, i swear by them,no leaks,no drains, always started, day or night wet,cold,frozen...
SunPro..eh?
Well, i have a triple gauge pod, VoltMeter,Oil(mechanical) and Water temp.
the VoltMeter is wired to the Accessory Post, and a separate wire is also attached from the cigar lighter. But they shut off once the key is "OFF"
ill do that though..tomorrow
thanks.
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Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and place your volt meter leads between the cable end and the Neg battery terminal. This will show the amount of draw on your battery. You can then start pulling one fuse at a time to watch and see when the major draw on the battery stops. This will indicate which circuit has your draw, and you can narrow down the fault.so disconnect the Negative Cable,
then place the multimeter red/black on the neg cable end, and the other on the battery negative post.
just trying to understand what your saying. i know it doesnt help whem im drinking.
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Disconnect the negative terminal of the battery, and place your volt meter leads between the cable end and the Neg battery terminal. This will show the amount of draw on your battery. You can then start pulling one fuse at a time to watch and see when the major draw on the battery stops. This will indicate which circuit has your draw, and you can narrow down the fault.so disconnect the Negative Cable,
then place the multimeter red/black on the neg cable end, and the other on the battery negative post.
just trying to understand what your saying. i know it doesnt help whem im drinking.
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Car: 69 Grande 302 v8 2bbl
normal driver, runs fine no issues. ill park it and drive the other cars, or just goto friends and crash for a week.....
Come back, it will be around 6v-8v using 2 sources for that info:
1)multimeter on battery will read 11.5v'ish
2) a cigar lighter battery tester, reads 8.4v
i figure, it might be 11v at the battery, but running thru the regulator,,misc stuff, the volts drop.
while the car is running, ill unplug the battery and car still runs with out skipping a beat..meaning: the alternator is properly charging the system
theres a trick to test the regulator, something about jumping a socket or something, its off the "doc" restored mustangs shop guy
but i didnt want to do that....
lights work, so i didnt think it was the regulator...
but, on my Voltmeter gauge, at certain times it will spike from 14v back to 8v and back again...then normal out...
or when im using the Blinker, it shifts back and forth from 11v to 14v
Is there another way to test the sytem..
or its reached that time in its life that reg.,alternator, need replacing?
or a FATORY screw up and its a pinched cord...or a bug.
Recent Things ive Done to the Mustang:
Installed the Accessory Post
Running the Cigar Lighter, Voltmeter Gauge, on the acessory post
running tachmeter like normal
for the gauge lights, all tied to each other and then quick-connected to the key-on accessory glass tube fuse
no fuses have blown, no ticks,clanks,ka-booms, or anything.
so maybe a frequent pulse of energy to and from the system?
Sometimes, ill have my RADAR detector plugged into the cigar lighter thing
or my GPS, recently the Battery Tester tool
BUT, when the key is OFF, those are automatically turned off...correct?
they are not on, there are no lights on them...just like on newer cars,key is off so are the accessories
I thought about upgrading the alternator, its an old one now, probably factory spec, the only thing aftermarket was the cd player with 4 speakers.
Also, im thinking of upgrading the battery to a dry cell, RED TOP
i used those when i had car shows with my imports...
any ideas? or suggestions..thanks
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Car: 69 Grande 302 v8 2bbl
normal driver, runs fine no issues. ill park it and drive the other cars, or just goto friends and crash for a week.....
Come back, it will be around 6v-8v using 2 sources for that info:
1)multimeter on battery will read 11.5v'ish
2) a cigar lighter battery tester, reads 8.4v
i figure, it might be 11v at the battery, but running thru the regulator,,misc stuff, the volts drop.
while the car is running, ill unplug the battery and car still runs with out skipping a beat..meaning: the alternator is properly charging the system
theres a trick to test the regulator, something about jumping a socket or something, its off the "doc" restored mustangs shop guy
but i didnt want to do that....
lights work, so i didnt think it was the regulator...
but, on my Voltmeter gauge, at certain times it will spike from 14v back to 8v and back again...then normal out...
or when im using the Blinker, it shifts back and forth from 11v to 14v
Is there another way to test the sytem..
or its reached that time in its life that reg.,alternator, need replacing?
or a FATORY screw up and its a pinched cord...or a bug.
Recent Things ive Done to the Mustang:
Installed the Accessory Post
Running the Cigar Lighter, Voltmeter Gauge, on the acessory post
running tachmeter like normal
for the gauge lights, all tied to each other and then quick-connected to the key-on accessory glass tube fuse
no fuses have blown, no ticks,clanks,ka-booms, or anything.
so maybe a frequent pulse of energy to and from the system?
Sometimes, ill have my RADAR detector plugged into the cigar lighter thing
or my GPS, recently the Battery Tester tool
BUT, when the key is OFF, those are automatically turned off...correct?
they are not on, there are no lights on them...just like on newer cars,key is off so are the accessories
I thought about upgrading the alternator, its an old one now, probably factory spec, the only thing aftermarket was the cd player with 4 speakers.
Also, im thinking of upgrading the battery to a dry cell, RED TOP
i used those when i had car shows with my imports...
any ideas? or suggestions..thanks
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Yeah, it was the generic yellow connector you got (along with the bus bar) if your car came with any options. Not really needed as you can run your own wires to the post. I borrowed your picture that shows it.
thats fine...its not my pic anyways..
finally got it installed...
What i was worried about was the BuseBar, i THOUGHT had to be spliced somehow into a wire, behind the fusebox...
But...
after unscrewing the spring screw that screws the fusebox to the backing, i realized...
the stupid thing, just SLIPS on..hahaha
i was so frustrated, thinking..where to splice..where to screw...
and all along just Slip it in...
Oh well, now anyone doing the same will know...
the BusBar just Slips on,from the left edge and down in the groove for the fuse...then tighten the NUT from the back side
i used 14 gauge wire for everything, and for the Cigar Lighter, and VOLTMETER, i used a inline fuse with a 15 blade fuse for both..
now i got Phone Charger,radar detector, gauges working w/ light.
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Glad you found one, they're getting scarce I hear. I see that Midlife (the wiring harness guy) is reproducing the yellow three-prong accessory pigtail that attaches to the bus bar if anyone is interested....what did this yellow three-prong accessory pigtail actually connect too, or serve as a purpose?
Was it for the Seatbelt light? Parking Brake light? those things..?
If its for those things, then i dont need it.
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i ordered a piece from MOP, $10 + $5 s/h=$15.
Im going to install it soon, that one on eBay is totally fake...
the one i ordered looks real..
now i just have to wiggle in there inverted and struggle to remove the box and screw this in.
thanks for the help/info
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...On an unrelated note, I love the look of the seats. I really need that cloth center section. Can you let me know where you got those? I live in a hot/humid environment and cant stand the thought of black vinyl where I live even though that is original on my 69. Are your seats custom made or something I can buy as is?
Good luck!
Jay
i bought it with those...they were originally from what he said, just newer...he might have changed it a bit.
but its nice, my stepfather owns a car shop and he does upholstery there ill ask next time i see him, to see what exactly it is..
to me it might be nylon...but i never took a second look that close to see....
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Boss302,How about two under the heater controls and two on the "A" pillar. That would leave you an extra spot for a tach so you could dump the one on your column and clean things up a bit. Kinda like what Jholmes217 is suggesting.
Since my car has the center console, I put two in the ashtray using a Shelby pod and I'm going to add the two on the "A" pillar. I am monitoring my trans functions so I used the extra space for that.
Bruce
i plan on getting a center console for mine, i saw one at mustangs unlimited...
..usually in my current cars the center dash is plast and comes off in like 45 pieces...lol and use a a DOOR DRILL KIT from lowes/home depot to drill the right size hole and done in like 30min or less...
but i dont want to drill holes in this nice dash...
that SHELBY gauge pod might work..i dont know, just tossing ideas and seeing any opinions...bad or good
69 302 c4 tranny problem
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
so, i dont race it, but recently ive been driving it on the highway, speeds of 55mph-70mph- sometimes, i would pass a bus, so i would floor it but give it more gas, it would shift into a lower gear and give more HP.
temp,pressure all good after getting home,parking it.
today, i was a traffic light, after sitting in traffic, it turned green, and i gave it gas, but didnt floor it,30 seconds, i hear this POP or metal pop sound.
DRIVE gave out, i was just coasting..no smoke..fire..etc, just no momentum.
pulled to the side, shifted it to neutral...that was ok...
low gear,1 and 2, they didnt go either..
so then i tried REVERSE, that went, no issues there.
put it in park, then drive, did this a couple times, nothing
looked underneath, no leaks...fluids, draftshaft was intact...the output seal looked good.
im thinking its the forward clutch, im not to familiar with them, but what ive googled,asked a friend, seems to be that.
Now..
the car was sitting in the garage for a couple years before i got it, changed the fluids after i got and all...ran perfect.
but this just happened, so...
my question is..
can i just have some check to see if it is the forward clutch, fix it..just that. or because of the damage, i should just have them rebuild it?
i dont kow when it was last touched...im assuming since its 40yrs old, it must of had a rebuild on it...and some point and time.
im just trying to see if i can get away just replacing the forward clutch parts...or im better off having them rebuild it like new.
i just dropped $6500 on my 69 camero rss/ss with Fuel inijection and the ignition system kit $2500 its a restomod 550hp.
but i want to get the mustang up and running again...but dont want to just replace the part if later, the other parts cause it break down again..
or just wait and get the tranny rebuilt
i got quoted, $1100-$1400 for the tranny rebuilt.
any suggestions or ideas...
thanks