Stevewr54

Anything you place in front of the radiator can restrict airflow. That has been my experience with customer cars. I'm not saying you can't do it, just be mindful. The data numbers are best left to the smart folk. Steve

Those dramatically limit the airflow through the radiator. Keep an eye on your temps. Steve

Took the radio out of a 84 Grand Marquis the wife had many years ago. Fit my 69 Mach 1 really well. Steve

Listen to Mach 1 Driver. He absolutely knows what he is talking about. You do not want a 1 wire alternator, period. If they were that great the OE would be using them. If you're absolutely dead set on electronic ignition consider the Ford Duraspark. You can get replacement parts anywhere. Steve

Is the ground strap between the engine and firewall in place and clean? Steve

Does the valve have a viton/rubber tip? Supposed to be steel. Steve

If you're gonna buy an aftermarket shifter the only one worth owning is the Turbo Action Cheetah. The rest are just an adapted TH350 shifter. You're welcome, Steve

Tee it into the heater hose fitting on the manifold. Steve

Wire around the connector would be the simplest. Looks to me you have a pin that has gotten plenty hot and melted. You will have to wire around this as well. The one in the second picture below and to the left of the screw. Those terminals are junk once they have been hot. That's probably your headlight issue. Halogen bulbs pull more current than the stock ones. Hope this helps, Steve

You might want to read the article on the www.madelectrical.com website. It gives some good information about 1-wire alternators. Steve

Check the fluid level after it sits for a while. If it's way over full the converter could be draining back. Bad check ball. Steve

Turbo Action Cheetah is the only shifter to own. Most all the others are just adapted TH 350/400 ones. The quadrants on the Cheetah are designed for Ford transmissions. You won't regret this shifter. Hope this helps, Steve

If you are buying a "correct" one from one of the suppliers like Marti beware. You better have a battery disconnect you can access quickly. They are very prone to sticking. The car will either not shut off or the starter will not disengage. Get one from Motorcraft. Hope this helps.

Fuel should not be dripping from the boosters at idle. All idle fuel should going in under the plates from the holes behind the mixture screws. Pull the booster assembly out of the carb. and clean the small brass idle fuel tubes. If you have a high float level running, check fuel pressure. 5 lbs. max. is about all they will tolerate. Steve

The Turbo Action Cheetah is the only one I would consider. Steve

I always drill a 1/8" hole in every thermostat I install. Drill it close to the edge but not covered by the gasket. 351C and M motors are easy to airlock. Steve

Aftermarket or OE system? Steve

Last one I installed on a 67 Cougar had to be mounted in the uppermost hole. It would bind up so I had grind some off the rounded top end. Took a couple shots to get it. Hope that's what you were asking. Steve

You will just have to connect them together to start. You could fab up a clutch switch for safety if needed. Steve

I would take a good look at the Global West TS-70 brace. Steve

I think it goes on term 1 of the voltage regulator. Stripe on the diode towards the regulator. I'll check at work tomorrow. Steve

Think it would be an issue to leave it in? Thanks, Steve

Afret, What did you do about the stock proportioning valve with the new rear discs. Thanks, Steve

Do yourself a huge favor and get a wiring diagram. Just Google and you'll find some to print. Steve

It seems like we were under the shade tree so that's why I suggested the screwdriver. I 100% agree on meters and load tests. A scope will show the spike from cable removal while running. Your electronics will see it, too! Steve