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GypsyR

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  1. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in IFS Front End Option   
    I'm rather fond of the original factory IFS. With some upgrades ala Opentracker. I 've noticed that seems to be the preferred way to go with people that autocross and/or do some amateur level open track racing.
  2. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from TexasEd in Stroke my 302 to 331 or Do a 351W/408 swap?   
    Seems like I've seen this thread before somewhere. But anyway..
    When people say they want a bunch of power and there's a choice between a smaller engine and a bigger one, the answer is the bigger one. Pretty much just that simple.
    Getting around 400 HP from a 351W isn't too hard. Stroke it for more. 
    8 inch rears rule of thumb are good up to 400 HP or so if there's no drag racing with slicks. Sounds like you'll need a 9.
    The "sub 11 second" thing kind of throws this. Such times aren't that easy to achieve. Plus if you do, they're going to say you have to have a roll cage if you plan to keep going to the track. Have a plan for that? 
    An alternative to all this is to just hotrod the engine and car how you want to with an eye towards improving it's performance. If you forget about focusing on some arbitrary blue sky numbers the whole thing is a LOT more enjoyable. On the other hand, if you intend to use the car for competition then of course you need a thought out plan with realistic goals.
  3. Like
    GypsyR reacted to Ridge Runner in Roof skin tabs   
    Trim them off 
  4. Haha
    GypsyR got a reaction from bigmal in OEM rear seat belts - free   
    If they went to good home then I guess that's all we could really ask for. (It's like we're talking about kittens here.)  :)
  5. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in Alternator case grounding.   
    Over the years I've fixed a couple of Fords (and one Dodge) that no one else could with a store full of alternators by simply adding a ground wire from the case to the ground point where engine block ground strap is. Or is supposed to be. You'd think it would be grounded by the bolts and brackets but in at least a couple of cases it was not and I proved it. After the second one I fixed it became my habit to add a ground wire to every alternator I owned that didn't have one already.
    The last one I caught I had since learned about voltage drop testing and was able to isolate the trouble area. Out of curiosity. It was between the case itself and the steel bracket. The aluminum case can develop a surface oxidation that apparently won't conduct electricity. Just like a coat of paint.
    Do you NEED a ground? Probably not. I've seen hundreds of vehicles that didn't have or need one. But I've seen it be an issue a couple of times and ground straps are cheap. It's not going to ever be an issue on MY cars.
  6. Like
    GypsyR reacted to nymustang1969 in Distributor Cap for stock Motorcraft distributor   
    If you are looking for a male cap that fits our Motorcraft distributors Standard Motor Products AL482 will work. It was ment for a Prestolite distributor but fits ours also if you file a small slot that fits the index tab on the distributor. It is marked on the cap. Have been using this for years with the Ford Racing spark plug wires.
  7. Like
    GypsyR reacted to RPM in Transmission coolers   
    So why are you adding another trans fluid cooler? I've read that you only need them if you tow, or if your torque converter is a higher stall than stock. 
  8. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from RPM in 69-70 Hood catch   
    Interesting take on that part. My first thought on duplicating one was some round mild steel stock combined with some blacksmithing. 
  9. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from RPM in Ever want to punch one of these guys ?   
    I've been fooling with cars for a few years now. I've come to feel I'd very much prefer modification/repair work done by someone who actually CARES about what he is doing along with having the skills. There's a pretty big difference between a workman and a craftsman and their end products.
    The reason factories do spot welding is that's it cheap and fast. Basically the minimum necessary to produce parts quickly. People that work in such situations tend to take the same mindset, don't do what's best, do what keeps the production numbers up and keeps the bosses happy with the least effort on their part.
    Due to my unscientific and anecdotal observations of what happens in crashes and from taking stuff apart, I'm not personally terribly impressed by "factory spot welds". 
     
  10. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from mwye0627 in Sub-frame connectors   
    I kind of like to make my own but if I were going to buy some they'd be the Spintechs. They are the only ones that truly integrate into the unibody of the car and look like the factory might have done them to the uninformed eye. Never been a fan of the "piece of pipe stuck under the car" look.
    https://spintechmufflers.com/mustang-1965-1970-sub-frame-connectors/
  11. Thanks
    GypsyR got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in Sub-frame connectors   
    I kind of like to make my own but if I were going to buy some they'd be the Spintechs. They are the only ones that truly integrate into the unibody of the car and look like the factory might have done them to the uninformed eye. Never been a fan of the "piece of pipe stuck under the car" look.
    https://spintechmufflers.com/mustang-1965-1970-sub-frame-connectors/
  12. Thanks
    GypsyR got a reaction from Shep69 in 302 Rear Main Seal   
    I've become sold on the teflon versions. Any engine I've had a chance to look at some time after installing one has been bone dry. Only a couple I've seen but one was a driver for a couple of years and that one alone was about enough to sell me on the things.Teflon rear seals seem to be mandatory on later diesel pickup engines for some reason. For whatever that's worth.
  13. Like
    GypsyR reacted to lanky in Toploader will not come out   
    I bet it is just binding. Maybe I have bad luck, but every transmission I've removed has binded after it backs off a little. You did take the transmission out of gear right? If you can fit some kind of straps in between the block and bellhousing for pulling power they are nice because at least you know you won't break or dent anything with straps and hand-power...unless the transmission flies off onto you! This worked for me with a jack under transmission with a friend gently rocking the trans while I pulled straps. 
  14. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from RPM in Engine Installation - headers & transmission   
    I've been installing engines for years with the transmission installed. It's my preferred method on all kinds of vehicles. It involves maybe a little more patience and back and forth than installing all at once but I sure wouldn't call it a "hell of a time". 
  15. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from RPM in Engine Installation - headers & transmission   
    How people install and remove engines is really as much personal preference as anything. I like to have the transmission and my long tube headers in and then put the engine in. But if the headers have never been bolted to the engine you are going to use, be sure to fit them outside of the car. There can be variances and it's really easy to grind out a bolt hole a little or whatever BEFORE everything is all in. I like to bolt as much stuff on an engine as practical before I put it in. To do so you kind of have to have had pulled the engine out with as much as possible still attached to it so you already know what you can leave on or not. It's not that big a deal bolting things on though.
  16. Like
    GypsyR reacted to 69RavenConv in Is signed by Rob Schneider a selling point?   
    I thought the same thing. Then I imagined what it would be like owning the car and I thought it might become a negative. Like, EVERY time you took the car out, you'd get the following;

    "Hey, who signed your dash?"
    "Rob Schneider"
    "Who? Never heard of him. Some big Oldsmobile guy?"
    "Nah, he was the 'making copies' guy on Saturday Night Live for a while"
    Oh. So why did he sign your 1964 Oldsmobile?"
    "it was in a movie he was in"
    "What movie?"
    "American Virgin"
    "Never heard of it."
    "Yeah, nobody has, except me. And I have to explain it EVERY time I take this car out..."
  17. Haha
    GypsyR got a reaction from Caseyrhe in what was your thoughts when you first saw your Mustang   
    My first thought upon seeing my '69 at a swap meet was "OMG I so want that pitiful piece of s##t." Which is still true some three years later. (I have other cars to finish first, OK?) :)
  18. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from RPM in Modern Starter   
    My local "Pull-A-part" sells starters for $19.95 plus a $7 core charge.
    The cheapest PMGR 1995 Mustang starter at my local O'reillys is $79 plus a $10 core.
    Depends on where you shop. I don't have a problem with either price.
    I do have a problem with O'Reillys (and all the rest) selling just the PMGR solenoid by itself for $50. I mean more than half the price of a complete starter WITH a solenoid on it. That's just wrong. About double what it should be priced at. Not that anybody is asking me...
    Local salvage yards are asking @$25 for a used one.
    I've noted over the years that parts prices can vary drastically depending on what part of the country you are in. Pretty cheap around here I guess.
  19. Like
    GypsyR reacted to buening in DIY Eccentric Eliminators   
    This is an old topic from me, but when reviewing my signature links for dead pictures I realized I never created an actual thread about it here on 69stang (just on the VMF). For those that enjoy fabricating their own stuff to save money, I've created a PDF with dimensions to create your own eccentric eliminators. Its really easy to do as long as you can accurately centerpunch and drill the holes. Once one plate is made, use a transfer punch using the completed plate onto the 2nd plate. Harbor Freight has transfer punches in case you don't have any, they are handy when replicating parts.
     
    Attached below is the PDF as well as pics below, not of the actual fab'd plates but of what the aftermarket versions look like.
     
    The numbers on the drawing are intended to be stamped into the plate so that you can keep track of the orientation of each plate. The numbers are sequential to the slight changes in camber. There is also a small hole drilled near the lower left corner, also to help with orientation. I also notice many have updated their plates to only include 2 holes. I only have the 3 hole version, but if someone has the two hole one I'd be curious how the dimensions measure up. My guess is they don't allow for as fine of camber adjustments as the 3 hole does.






    Eccentric Eliminator Plate.pdf
  20. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from TheRktmn in Let's See Those Mustang Guard Dogs .   
    Generic yellow mutt who lets me hang out in her garage. Shih-Tzu is daughter's. He likes to hang out with us when he can. That's supposed to be HIS bed.

  21. Like
    GypsyR got a reaction from Ridge Runner in Let's See Those Mustang Guard Dogs .   
    Generic yellow mutt who lets me hang out in her garage. Shih-Tzu is daughter's. He likes to hang out with us when he can. That's supposed to be HIS bed.

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