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Everything posted by GypsyR

  1. Some years ago another Mustang owner and I got into a discussion about how or why a simple bi-metallic spring would "require" 12 volts over 7 or 8 volts. In the end we did some informal comparison testing. His with relayed 12 volts, mine with the Stator voltage. With the same basic engine setups and the same carbs we timed them from cold. At approximately the same ambient temperature. His choke opened fully an average of six seconds sooner. We agreed that was close enough as to make no practical difference. So either way works fine, no matter what Holley (or Edelbrock) says. For simplicity and reliability you just can't beat a single wire to a Ford's stator post. Notice I said Ford. If you are working on a different brand of vehicle apparently there are good reasons for not using the stator connection because of different designs. Non-Fords aren't really my area though.
  2. I've had old dead gas do that. Ran OK and was fully warmed up. A couple of days later I cranked it up and evidently immediately bent a couple of pushrods. All intake valves. The gas put lacquer on the intake valves which apperently dried like paint after the engine cooled off. Upon restart the valves were "glued" into the guides. Something had to give. I had to heat the affected guides with a torch and hammer the affected valves out of them.
  3. Strange. I always install them separately because I work by myself and find it too difficult to swing both in and out. Just the engine I can can swing and wiggle as needed and still have one hand on the cherry picker controls. In a junkyard situation where I would be in a hurry and could care less about the car getting banged up and bashed into, for sure I'd yank both together. Especially if I had a forklift on hand to drag it all out of there.
  4. IMHO, linear actuators are overkill for the application. 250lbs is enough force to break stuff and even distort the door. Amputate stray fingers too. I can picture one shattering the glass if it keeps driving after the glass hits the stops. An install of them should include some VERY carefully placed limit switches. The reason they are slow is that they are geared very low. Low speed but a bunch of torque. I feature of purpose made window motors is they have just enough torque to get the job done and not enough to cause harm to the inevitable stray body part in the window as it shuts. Many years back Mustang Monthly did a feature where they cut off the three hole section of a power regulator scissors (like from a Tbird or F150, whatever) and cut the Mustang regulator the same way. Then welded the piece to hold the motor in place of the manual crank area. I fooled with visualizing this on my '67 a few years back but could never make out how I could "clock" the motor to not interfere with anything. Earlier Ford window motors are largish and ROUND. Later models, like 1995 F150's and 1996 Aerostars use the same 3 bolt mount style but motors that are slim and flatter. No doubt the later motors would be better choices for retrofit. MM promised a follow-up article of how to do the rear windows on a coupe which never materialized (and ticked me off no end). The rears are tricky. The only options I know of (so far) are to use Cougar pancake setups or the SPAL universal things. I have some the SPALs I've played with a bit and I really don't care for the way they mount. They haven't impressed me at all with their long term durability either. I've needed to replace two for friends so far. Which is how I came by the leftovers, they come only in pairs. At one point I got very interested in power windows (and batted some ideas around with Buening) but pretty well shelved the idea in favor of way too many other projects and distractions. Never quite gave up on it though. I figure I could pretty well work out the fronts if a reasonable solution for the rears comes up. Other than somewhat overly expensive Cougar rear regulators. I refuse to do power front windows without rears. My Sportsroof is another matter. At this point it doesn't even have viable doors so fooling with regulators isn't anywhere near being on the table yet.
  5. A condenser does reduce airflow. That's why for old school cars the OEM's gave AC cars fan shrouds, or better shrouds, and bigger fans with more blades. Depending on what manufacturer and vehicle you look at for particular combinations of upgrades. Plus you want to figure in that he radiator is no loner seeing "fresh" air when the AC is on. The air will have been pre-warmed slightly by the condenser's shed heat.
  6. All I was really after, an answer one way or the other. Thanks.
  7. With a decent aftermarket coil it's more like 40,000 volts. It's a trade-off deal. On the engine there is more heat which may shorten the life of the coil. Performance rule of thumb is the shorter the coil wire the better. So you might be giving up something moving the coil away and for sure are increasing the chance of arcing. I've got a car with a Accel coil and one with an MSD coil. Both mounted on the fenderwell. They aren't racers and I like reliability. I'm using 8.5mm plug wires on one and 9mm on the other so I'm not worried too much about arcing. I'm with you on the one coil wire hanging across though, I've never been happy with how that looks. Worth considering that my 351W EFI truck has the coil mounted over the rear of the driver's valve cover from the factory. A little close to the engine but up a bit so it has airflow all around it. This setup obviously works fine for thousands of other trucks like mine. You can how it mounts in this pic I pirated off a for sale ad. You might consider fabbing something similar.
  8. Pilot bearings can indeed be a pain. I've had the best luck with the slide hammer type tools. But on a few I've have to chisel them out. The rotation of the clutch setup doesn't matter just line up with the bolt holes. DO NOT tighten the bolts one at a time. Tighten them just a turn or two then across to the opposite one. And so forth around and around, little by little. One reason is that as someone posted a while back that if you try to run down the bolts one at a time you can snap them right off. Then you have to pull everything and try to get the broken bolts out, find new bolts, etc. Before you tighten the pressure plate bolts, snug them down so you can just wiggle the plate with the line up tool. Then use your fingers to feel where the edge of the plate is. Plates aren't usually a perfect match in size and there should be three gaps where you can feel how exactly the edge of the clutch plate matches the edge ofthe pressure plate. Line up tools don't line up perfectly. Usually the weight of the plate lets it "sag" down a little. By feeling with your fingers and tightening the bolts just a little you can get it close to perfect. It isn' necessary but sometimes it can be a bear to get the input shaft lined up with the clutch and pilot bearing. Every little bit helps as wrestling a transmission into a clutch is not much fun. Every once in a while one just drops right in. Lining up the clutch with your fingers AND the tool increases the odds that it may happen that way.
  9. There are any number of online "CFM calculators" that will tell you a 500 is more appropriate than a 600 for a mild to moderate 302. I agree. One of our drivers is a lightly modified 5.0 I put a 500 cfm Edelbrock on years ago. I don't plan on ever changing it unless I decide to make the car a full-on racer. At one time that car was my wife's daily driver and had a 2100 on it. The old carb had worn throttle shfts and instead of messing with it I threw on a stock intake and the 500. Wife was not at all thrilled when she saw it but begrudgingly drove it. She's one of those people who only puts $10 or so in the tank at a time. Within a week she had already noticed she had to put less gas in the car and decide she liked that carburetor just fine. I like it too but it doesn't seem to get very good mileage when I drive it. The rear tires seem to wear a bit more too. Can't imagine why.
  10. Sent you a PM a little while back. No answer yet. I'd kind of like to buy this.
  11. Also remarkably similar to the late 1980's Ford Ranger boots I junkyard scrounged to use on my other car (a '67). I don't remember the diameters but do remember for some weird reason each end was a different size and I had to hunt some slightly odd sized hole saws to get them fitted. This particular one is now jammed pretty full with wires for the speaker, power locks, courtesy light, and the remote mirror cable. They may or may not be good for a '69. My need for some on mine is so very far down the road I haven't even looked at the area.
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