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GypsyR

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Everything posted by GypsyR

  1. My local "Pull-A-part" sells starters for $19.95 plus a $7 core charge. The cheapest PMGR 1995 Mustang starter at my local O'reillys is $79 plus a $10 core. Depends on where you shop. I don't have a problem with either price. I do have a problem with O'Reillys (and all the rest) selling just the PMGR solenoid by itself for $50. I mean more than half the price of a complete starter WITH a solenoid on it. That's just wrong. About double what it should be priced at. Not that anybody is asking me... Local salvage yards are asking @$25 for a used one. I've noted over the years that parts prices can vary drastically depending on what part of the country you are in. Pretty cheap around here I guess.
  2. I've been using PMGR starters from the salvage yard for years and have yet to have the starter itself give a problem. It's always the attached solenoid. I've replaced a BUNCH of those. I've had one apart though. There's a small planetary gearset in one end but otherwise they're pretty much like any other starter rebuildable wise. Since you can buy a new off Ebay so cheaply rebuilding one hardly makes sense. I find it very annoying that you can buy a complete cheap off-brand PMGR with solenoid off Ebay cheaper than you can buy just the cheap off-brand solenoid at the local parts store. I wouldn't look down on one of those cheap Ebay type starters, lots of folks have been well pleased by how well they work and last.
  3. One reason I like 3G's is their exceptional ability to charge at lower RPM's. Something no older Ford alternator (or Delco converted to 1-wire) has ever been good at. Since you only actually need power steering at low vehicle and engine speeds, like in a parking lot, having such an alternator on a vehicle with electric power steering is pretty good thinking. Electric power steering doesn't actually draw THAT much power but still... If there is something on my car that I'm not particularly happy about, that is the ONLY reason I need to yank it off in favor of something I like better.
  4. Well I just finished up milling the flange of a stainless header to correct the exit angle (which took forever) and now I think I just found my next machining project. Thank you!
  5. It occurs to me you're asking about how to pretty much duplicate the stock (more or less) setup on my 1995 F150 5.8 4R70W. With PMGR starter and fender solenoid. Because Ford made them with external solenoids for a couple of years. (Minus the extra compression and I had to pull the wounded long tubes for the time being though.) I'm with Rsmach1 on the OEM parts counter starters. I've had lots of luck with them. The solenoids seem to be the weak point but not terribly. If you want to go even cheaper, people have have pretty good luck with buying them off Ebay for less than what the chain parts stores want for just a solenoid. A while back I needed to move my non-running 351W '67 out of the garage. Rather than pulling it with the truck I decided to crank it out with the starter and the transmission in reverse. Worked just fine, my driveway is a bit uphill. Later after it was back in the solenoid went out. I didn't have a spare at the time but I did have a good used older style starter so I just swapped it on real quick. Went to pull the crank in reverse trick again and only made it halfway. Added a second battery and it STILL wouldn't pull the hill. If I didn't like my PMGR starters before I sure as heck do now. The PMGR is fixed and back on the car AND I have a spare. OK, a lot of that sounds kind of silly but there's a whole lot more to the story of what and why I was doing all that. But it's getting late. Point is, stock style PMGR starters good, old style starters bleh. You can pay a lot more if you just really want to but I think Ford made good enough ones for me.
  6. An AOD and C6/E4OD use flexplates that are the same except for one very important issue. Different offsets. When you use a C6 plate on an AOD(AODE/4R70W) it puts the converter a little further back. That's OK until everything gets good and hot and you go to pass somebody (or whatever), balloon the converter a bit and the front pump takes a hit. And breaks. I haven't done it, but I've seen it and had to repair the aftermath. Lay an AOD and C6 plate face down on a flat surface and measure the height of the center. It's a small difference and hard to see, but it's there and it matters. A correct 164 tooth flexplate can be had from about any chain parts store. For a 28 ounce imbalance ask for one for a 1991 Crown Victoria with a 351W (police car). Most chains carry the Pioneer brand which I've found to be a good stock type replacement. last couple I bought ran me just under $60. Incidentally the same flexplate is correct for many FMX applications too. I bought a 351W once that came with a free C6 attached. It's been on a shelf for close to 20 years and I've yet to have desire to use it in anything. (I'm addicted to overdrive.) Yet for some reason I've never really wanted to get rid of it either. Sold all my C4 stuff to drag racers.
  7. It looks a bit funny? But no, no real problem. And extra credit for creativity.
  8. The basic design and outside dimensions of AOD's, AODE's, and 4R70W's are all but identical, I can't imagine how installation and header fitment would vary. Maybe you are thinking of AOD/AODE's versus C4's or FMX's or something? Though a 4R70W is the new and improved version but you have the extra expense of computer controls to pay for. AOD's are very sensitive to the setup of their TV cables but are tougher than often given credit for. I like an AOD for the simplicity and lower price. Truth be told I currently have one of each in service right now and like them both fine. (But my '69 is getting a five speed.)
  9. Until this thread I thought Ford didn't do a 351/C4 combination. I learned something today. I knew about the big bell/"truck" C4's but thought they were 302 only. This made it occur to me to wonder something I haven't thought about before. When exactly DID Ford come out with the small block version of the C6?
  10. Possibly because there are two different sizes of tailhousing bushings for 4R70W's. A 1992 (technically an AODE) used a 1.506" tail bushing. And matching seal. From 1993 on up the AODEs', 4R70W's, and all supposedly used a 1.606" inside diameter bushing. It's possible to swap the entire tailhousing and not notice until you have a yoke mismatch. Pretty sure you can't swap just the bushings, nor the seals either.
  11. Generic yellow mutt who lets me hang out in her garage. Shih-Tzu is daughter's. He likes to hang out with us when he can. That's supposed to be HIS bed.
  12. The lock assemblies I've found to work from full-sized Fords and Mercurys back to about 1974. I pulled every one I could find at a local junkyard some years back and sold them for 1967-1970 Mustang use. On my '67 coupe at one time I had the torsion bars too tight and the lid would jump up pretty hard. Being keyless this was recipe for fun. This little person completely cleared the roof and hit the hood running at full speed. I'd give about anything to have had video of it.
  13. Nice!. I never found a location I really liked for one so skipped using a button at all and wired mine to remote keyless entry only. Your under seat idea though...
  14. An FYI for MikeStang. Should you care to take the trouble, you can swap your timing cover for a 1985 Mustang 5.0 cover and have a mechanical fuel pump while keeping reverse rotation. I've run across other timing covers that were reverse and had the mounts for the fuel pump drilled and tapped but the center hole for the pump arm was never "knocked out". Few minutes with a Dremel took care of that. Just saying there are those options out there. If you are all set up with an electric pump you're happy with that's fine too. I'm good with either pump style myself, just depends on the circumstances.
  15. VR-1 is almost always on the shelf at my local Advance Auto Parts store. Synthetic is nice stuff but all motor oil is petroleum based, one way or another. Except Amsoil, which is apparently made from hydrolyzed magic unicorn milk. Even though it has an unlikely name, the "Bob is the oil guy" forum has an astounding amount of petroleum product information. Links to white papers, actual SAE specification documentation, petroleum institute information. All kinds of stuff which is not guesswork, opinion, hearsay, and advertising based propaganda. Opinion has worth though. My opinion is that once the cam has been broken in, use whatever you like as long as it's a good quality brand name oil. Doesn't hurt if happens to be on sale. More important is to keep the oil changed at decent and regular intervals. What intervals exactly is probably a subject to start a whole other thread.
  16. I hang out on a number of different forums so I'm pretty easy on changes. One thing that's currently bugging me though is that when you hover over a thread title what pops up is the thread's title, start date, and start time. Since I'm hovering over the thread's title, that info is absurdly redundant, as is the start date. I take it as the hover feature needs a bit of tuning. Having the hover feature that shows the first line or so of the first post in a thread is a feature I REALLY like. Other than that small issue the changeover is looking pretty good to me.
  17. Bob (Dooley) sold the VMF and basically has nothing to do with Mustang internet forums anymore. If you still need to contact him Red Five is still his company as far as I know. http://r5i.com/
  18. Now THAT is cool. I've swapped parts between a '69 and '67 but thought the '71+ caps were off limits. Never occurred to me you don't HAVE to have a base. Shows how little I know about '71-3 cars I guess. Nice work. A little different without being radical.
  19. The light will still be greenish. We forget old incandescent bulbs cast a yellowish light. Yellow through blue covers makes green. The newer the covers, the more blue-green. White LED's through blue covers make a more true blue. Of course if you go messing with LED's you can pick your colors and skip the covers if you like.
  20. "Early" '90's AODE's? AODE's weren't used in Mustangs until 1994. An "early" 1993 or older would be an AOD. I'm not sure you have what you think you have. I've seen a few AOD's, AODE's, and 4R70W's in my time (and have some around) but I don't recall seeing any with what I would call a starter at "9 o'clock". They are all at 7 o'clock. That I've personally seen anyway. I would say post some pictures but I'm just curious as to what you have. It kind of matters a lot to you though and some of us can help you identify what you have. Or look at them really closely and compare them to pictures you search up. In any case I'd like to know about the one with the 9 o'clock starter.
  21. This thread made my day. These parts are so far down on my list of what my car needs that I haven't even looked into them. I did inspect them though and vaguely hoped there was some way to restore mine to looking nice without breaking the bank. I didn't even know there was a such high quality DIY solution for woodgrain replacement. Just knowing that I can at least attempt to make mine look as good as yours came out is a relief. I can now mark one small nagging thing off my worry list and onto the regular old to-do list.
  22. I've "fixed" a couple of older Ford charging systems by simply running a ground wire from the stud on the back of the alternator case to the engine block. Even though anybody and everybody would think that being solidly bolted to the brackets and engine would make a fine ground. A little rust, oxidation, and/or paint can kill the connection. The cars I repaired already had new alternators, batteries, cables, etc but just wouldn't charge. So it's my habit now to add a ground wire to the alternators of my personal vehicles if they don't have one. I have no doubt that you could do the same thing by cleaning all the connections at the bolts and brackets but I still add the wire.
  23. Looks like a three speed manual to me but I'm no expert. I know a bit about AOD's though which is why I'm in here. If you want to know what it actually is post again asking "what manual transmission is this" to get educated opinions. If you don't care because you were actually shopping for an AOD, nevermind.
  24. "actually meant the dizzy cap with the male terminals (usually found in GM)," Sorry, No. Male terminals have been in use by Ford since the 1970's and Ford's version of "HEI" called "Duraspark" which looks completely different. The only thing they have in common is the male plug terminals. If you use a stock factory Ford Duraspark distributor, MSD sells an adapter plug that will allow it to mate directly to the "6" series MSD box of your choice. The adapter runs like six dollars, no GM parts involved at all. In recent years there have been for sale HEI style Ford distributors. Pioneered by Davis Unified Ignition, they basically just mate the top half of an HEI distributor to the bottom half of a Ford. They work but most folks don't seem to care all that much for them. There are now cheap copies of the DUI unit out there that folks have found to be rather low quality in the long term. As for the swaps, over and over I hear the reasoning for using a GM drivetrain swap into a different brand car is that is was the "easiest and cheapest" way to go. IMHO anytime you're working on a classic car and you choose the easiest and/or cheapest way there's a very very good chance you're doing it wrong. Whatever it is.
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