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GypsyR

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Everything posted by GypsyR

  1. All the 1994 up F4TE 5.8's are roller cam engines. Ford chose not to equip their F150 Lightnings with roller cams and used flat cams in them instead. If you found one of those all you'd have to is swap in the roller cam bits. But actual Lightning engines for sale are such very rare birds we don't even have to think about them. I got an F4TE as a "core" for almost nothing. Found it was freshly rebuilt but someone used a wrong or bad injector which leaked enough fuel the engine hydrolocked and cracked one cylinder. Pushed it to the side with an idea of using its good parts in another engine. Got around to scoring one from a PIck-n-pull on sale day for about $120. Out of a 1996 Econoline. After a bit of checking I decided it seemed to be a good engine. Freshened up a few gaskets and put it in my driver truck (pulled the 5.0). That was like three years ago and it it still runs so nicely I've stopped trying to blow it up. Found another core, $50. This one got water in the oil. Wiped out some bearings but the pistons and cylinders are OK. Finally got to use that crank I've been sitting on so long. Assembling a "fun" engine for the '69 while it waits for its numbers-correct '69 351W (in progress). If it were me and I were in Livemore I guess I'd hit up car-part.com and check out that engine at Manteca Dismantlers for $500. Or maybe that one at United for $325 but it has a lot of miles and they say a "lifter tick".
  2. Unsubstantiated internet rumor, it's all over the place and won't die. Such 5.0 blocks have less wear in the bores simply because they use "low tension" rings.
  3. Wait what? No way. Bosch brand relays are my favored brand but I don't believe I've had any that weren't 87A's. Perhaps I just haven't noticed. It's been very rare when I've used that extra pin. What you said perfectly correlates with what my avionics friend was talking about though. I've gotta look into this. Always a good day when I learn something new! A quick look at one of my favored references shows the info was right there under my nose the whole time. They reference the fifth pin as 87B on those. They also call them "double output" relays. Don't think I can get one by that name in the parts store. More research. Later!
  4. Because they tend to do odd things in California? Most OEM's are using deionized water these days. Don't think you get that by reverse osmosis. Distilled tends to do OK by us rednecks. Actually I've been looking into using the Asian style "phosphate" coolant. It's an easy way to get away from the old green "silicate" coolant and gain some long term durability. Like five year/100K mile durability. Silicates also tend to "fall out" in cars that sit for long periods of time. A big plus is you can backyard flush your cooling system and change over to it. Unlike if you wanted to go to an "extended life" Dex Cool type coolant where you REALLY want to flush everything out of the cooling system because every bit of the old silicate stuff left in there will react with the new coolant and make snot-like deposits that settle pretty much exactly where you don't want them. No such issue with the Asian stuff. Plus Zerex makes a nice blue version you can tell yourself is Ford blue. Leaks or service is no issue, more is available at any parts store at about the same price as the rest. Some of the Toyota specific stuff is pink and makes a nasty mud brown color when mixed with green, be careful of that. Second on my list might be a propylene glycol like "Sierra". I don't see a whole lot more benefit for the money for me so I quit looking into that. It's said to even better for sitting is rated at up to 150K miles if you like to put off servicing your cooling system. We have a lot of cars and for me I'm thinking the blue Zerex would be something I could keep and service all of them with it. If I can ever get my wife to sell that silly Buick she likes so much. Dex Cool isn't inherently bad (about all new Fords are using it), but aside from the mixing problems some people are seeing cavitation issues in antique water pumps with it. Cavitation makes me unhappy. Looking at all the white crunchy crap in the bottom of old radiators that is silicate that has settled out of old green coolant also makes me unhappy. And is basically what set me on a quest for something better, that and plugged up heater cores. Ask any radiator guy. The Asian radiators that run the correct coolant don't have all that crud in them and don't need "rodding out" because that type stuff just isn't in there. Evans I wouldn't use if you gave it to me. A solution looking for a problem if you ask me. Might be really good in museum cars though. I've never lived where running simply water with some additive was an option so offer no opinion on that.
  5. Just curious, why are there plugs in the water pump? Like where the bypass hose goes in particular?
  6. Ah, I see what you did. OK then. Incidentally, that illustration isn't quite correct. The inner connector is universally referred to as "87A" and the outer one as "87". Most relay setups commonly don't use 87A like you did or even use it at all. But you certainly can! When it is used, it's normal to hook the lighter of the two loads to 87A and the one that draws more to 87. Now that I mention that, I don't actually know why. An avionics guy once told me is what best to do it that way and I never questioned it. Or anything else he told me. If only I could remember half of it. Super smart guy.
  7. Not real clear on what you did there Bob. Are you saying you used a single relay to power both the choke AND your ignition? Petronix or something maybe? I can't picture that being a good idea. Have you measured your voltage at the ignition (module/distibutor/whatever) when the choke is also powered up? I feel like there will be a voltage drop but I'm also not real clear on what you are powering.
  8. I like to try different things sometimes. Once when I was removing the 5.0 from my '67 (in favor of a 351W) I wondered if I could pull it out without getting under the car. Turns out not only could I, I also didn't even jack up the car. Removed the starter and all the bellhousing bolts from the top. T5 and long tube headers that both stayed in the car, T5 resting on a floor jack. That was interesting.
  9. I've been installing engines for years with the transmission installed. It's my preferred method on all kinds of vehicles. It involves maybe a little more patience and back and forth than installing all at once but I sure wouldn't call it a "hell of a time".
  10. How people install and remove engines is really as much personal preference as anything. I like to have the transmission and my long tube headers in and then put the engine in. But if the headers have never been bolted to the engine you are going to use, be sure to fit them outside of the car. There can be variances and it's really easy to grind out a bolt hole a little or whatever BEFORE everything is all in. I like to bolt as much stuff on an engine as practical before I put it in. To do so you kind of have to have had pulled the engine out with as much as possible still attached to it so you already know what you can leave on or not. It's not that big a deal bolting things on though.
  11. If it's a stock rebuilt converter it very likely is a higher stall because of it's size. More than likely it's not enough so you or mostly anybody would really notice the difference.
  12. The "small case" Taurus alternators are a direct replacement and easier to fit. The "large case" ones like lanky (and I) used you need a longer adjuster bracket for, if you have a V8. I like to hit the '96-03 V6 Mustangs as the alternator harness is all one piece and easily removed from the car without cutting anything. Some junkyards don't like that and the ones that don't let you on the yard can be talked into getting you one if you make it clear the harness can simply be unbolted and unplugged at each end. As far as I've been able to tell the 95, 110, and 130 amp versions all charge exactly the same at idle and all are pretty much overkill for our cars. They are overkill for the cars they came in. Because those cars not only need quite a bit of power, their computer systems are lot happier the more stable the system voltage it. Point being, the easier to fit 95 amp version will do all you need and more. Unless you just like overkill and want a hulking great big alternator. I can't throw any rocks there. :)
  13. For simplicity and reliability, you can't beat the Stator terminal. Period. Millions (literally) of Fords were wired that from the factory. Some even came with Holleys. (4180's). True it doesn't provide a full 12 volts but it doesn't matter, you're just heating up a bimetallic coil of metal like a spring. A friend and I did some informal testing and found on average if you hooked up to direct 12 volts the only difference was the choke plate went full open about two seconds faster. Barely measurable and certainly not noticeable. I can't think of a single reason to not use the Stator terminal if you are using an original style alternator. Some people don't like simple and reliable I guess (people DO go out and buy Jaguars). Holley says not to, and so does Edelbrock. They should go into more detail and say not to on certain makes of cars and types of alternators but I imagine it's a LOT easier to just make a blanket statement.
  14. I agree with posters above. I'd skip it and invest in the same tools the list. I had ones of those and got rid of it. Also I even gave away my last tach/dwell meter, I never used it to speak of. I use the crap out of a 12 volt test light so much I had to invest in a couple of fairly high end ones. IE, ones that don't fall apart the second time you use them.
  15. 351W with a Duraspark that has an MSD cap on it. Intake a Weiand Stealth topped by an Edelbrock.
  16. I use "3M adhesive remover", red and white can. I like the "paint thinner" style can but some parts stores only have spray cans. Really good stuff. Takes off all kinds of petro based stuff and then some. It's also mild enough to dab greasy fingerprints off beige velour headliners. Seriously. I've yet to find anything it stains or attacks that you don't want it to. A friend suspects it to be what dry cleaners use to get spots out of delicate clothes or at least closely related. I wouldn't be surprised. It doesn't work on everything but it's VERY handy to have around anyway. I've yet to see it affect paint in any way.
  17. Also on those trucks those added coolers are most often part of a "towing" or "heavy hauling" optional package. Pretty sure neither of which type usage applies to your average classic Mustang. No one will argue that a higher than stock stall torque converter doesn't need additional cooling though.
  18. It's this http://www.fordmanuals.com/estore/demo/Demo10047.pdf Basically a teaser of a couple of pages of a manual you can buy.
  19. Hardly the same as posting pics in a thread for everyone to see, but anyway. I've been through four different picture hosting services over the years, Photobucket was 4, Winkflash was 3, can't remember the earlier ones right off. They seem to come and go over the years. Postimage works fine for me at the moment. Really sucks to dust off an old thread somewhere where someone had some neat pictures posted and see only a marker for something that no longer exists. Like there's someone in the library who goes around cutting out the illustrations out of all the books that are over five years old or something.
  20. My first thought upon seeing my '69 at a swap meet was "OMG I so want that pitiful piece of s##t." Which is still true some three years later. (I have other cars to finish first, OK?) :)
  21. Hot oil from the transmission goes through the radiator, then the cooler, then returns. This is the standard method used by every OEM on vehicles with an extra cooler and also how the instructions say to do on all the aftermarket add-on coolers. (That have instructions.) Since most guys as a matter of course don't need no steenking instructions this isn't commonly known.
  22. I did once have a happy 302 that started tapping. For some reason one rocker started tapping a baffle in a valve cover after eight years of service. I never did find an issue. I tapped the baffle some with a hammer and it was happy again. Then again I had a 289 that would repeatedly back off two rocker stud nuts and start tapping. A set of new nuts fixed it after I got tired of retightening every so often. Other folks have had "press-in" rocker studs pull out of the heads. They only have to back out a tiny amount to start clacking. That tiny amount is hard to see with just the eye. You can run the engine without valve covers and carefully put a thumb on the noisy suspect rockers to narrow down the issue. Unfortunately this tends to let oil slobber a bit down on the exhaust manifolds a little. If the engine is hot and not revved above idle I have gotten away with doing this with no oil mess at all. Some folks have cut out the tops of old rocker covers for old school valve adjustments which works really well.
  23. I'm not at all thrilled with using flanging pliers and flanges for patch panels. Nor would I recommend them for that purpose. Unless you are going to use panel adhesive anyway. I do like these for welding though.
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