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Everything posted by mark69sportsroof

  1. Hi Everyone, Does anyone have a pic of an electric vacuum pump setup on a big block. Right now I'm running 6 psi at idle. I have the FE 390 stroked to 445 with 11-1 compression. The power disc brakes need more vacuum to get to work properly. Thanks Mark
  2. Thanks guys for the info. I drove it on the street and highway and used my GPS and my speedo was 10 mph was 10 mph faster then the GPS. I have a a 19 tooth gear so I need to get a 21 tooth gear if I read the Bill's response. Mark
  3. Hi Everyone, I'm trying to figure out the correct speedo gear for my 69. It seems that I have seen a formula to determine the correct gear but I do not remember where or when I saw. Listed below is the key information if that helps. FE 390 stroked out to 445ci T-5 transmission 3:50 Pos rear end No A/C Weight - approx 3400 pounds Thanks Mark
  4. Hi Everyone, I am looking for a new fuel rail for my Quickfuel carb HR 750 mechanical double pumper. I have a Holly one now, but want to run a return line off the backside of the fuel rail with a 1.8" port for the fuel pressure gauge. The Holly does not have the fitting for the fuel return line. My engine builder thought he found one made by Quickfuel but they discontinued it. Does anyone knows a company that makes the fuel rail with the 1/8" port and fuel return line? Thanks Mark
  5. The 71 -73 Mustangs center caps were taller then the prior years. My 73 Mach 1 had the thinner caps but were not original to the car. After contacting my local Mustang parts shore they verified the taller ones for 71-73. That's my understanding. Mark
  6. Sorry for the delayed response. I have a Grant 13" wood steering wheel. What are my options besides disconnecting horns? Thanks Mark
  7. Hi Everyone, While driving the 69 Sportsroof today the horns went off for about 30 seconds by themselves. They would randomly go on and off in bursts. Burst vary from 2 - 30 seconds. I have disconnected the wires from the horn until I figure out the problem. Has anyone experienced this issue? Where should I start to investigate the reason for it. Thanks Mark
  8. Danno, I will purchase the item. Please send me a PM with your info and I can pay thru paypal. Thanks Mark
  9. Hey everyone, just an update. It's been 4 months since anything has happen. I've been waiting for 6 months for a local mustang shop to fix it. Well I got tired of waiting with no time frame. So I took it back the shop that has worked on it before. The owner had bleed the brakes and tried different remedies but no brakes. So after 5 master cylinders and 4 proportional valves I FINALLY have power disc brakes that work. So I bought the wilwood adjustable proportional valve. The shop put it on and again no change. I had to pump the brakes 3-4 times to get 60% or so of braking. Then he pinched off the front disc brake rubber hoses and pressed the brake pedal and it was hard. He said he thought the front calipers need to be switched. About an hour later he called and said I have brakes. The body/paint shop put on the calipers but I had no engine yet. Another guy doing my wiring said they were incorrect. I did several searches and looking at the internet pics and they appeared to be incorrect. So I had him switch them. Later I got the engine and found my brakes were not working. So its been a long, costly and painful 8-9 months. I have learned a lot about the braking system which is very educational. I received great advice of helpful hints from the members here. So thank you all very much. Mark
  10. It is a great show, weekend and beautiful town. We have been going the last 14 years. I will have the 73 Mach 1 and the 69 Sportsroof there. Mark
  11. Mine had one of each, 10-31-68 Dearborn Mark
  12. OK thanks. To the best that I can tell I have the 70 brake/clutch pedal set up. It is hard to tell 100% with it installed. Using pics I'm thinking its a 1970. I know the the brake boost push rod is curved and is a 69. The brake boost is correct and rebuilt. I have ordered the wilwood adjustable proportional valve. It will be here on Wednesday. I made arrangements with a local Mustang shop to install the new valve and they will relocate the position of the brake boost rod up 1/2" or so up. They just did a all drum conversion to power disc up front and rear drums. I fell very comfortable in their knowledge and quality. I'have seen their work for the last 6-7 years. AlsoIi have a few wiring bugs to resolve and their wiring guy will clean them up also. So in about 2 weeks i should have normal brakes and all working electrical. I will keep everyone updated. Mark
  13. OK thanks. I guess I'm not as special as I thought lol
  14. Another update. I believe I have the 70 brake/clutch pedals. I have checked Mustang Steve's website. The easiest way is to measure the clutch pedal bolt holes but that does not work in my case. I have the Modern driveline clutch cable setup. With that you have to cutoff the top part of the clutch pedal so I can't measure to see if it 4.5" or 5" from the center of the 2 bolt holes. I remember about 4 years ago I got the setup off a coupe but don't know if it was a 69 or 70. No paperwork or way to tell now. After reviewing the overall brackets that's where I think it appears more like the 70. I took off a rear wheel trying to verify if I had the correct wheel cylinder on the correct side. It appears by the metal brake line position to be correct. I was hoping to have a number to verify it against but no luck. I put my foot on the brake pedal which went down about 11/2" - 2" and started the engine. It moved about the same distance and almost to the floor. What affect would a 70 brake/clutch pedal setup be with the 69 curved brake rod from the brake boost? Thanks Mark
  15. That makes sense. What doesn't make sense is why am I the only I see with the remark. Thanks Mark
  16. Does anyone know why under my avatar it says "0 warning points"? I haven't been called into the principal's office have I? (LOL) I haven't seen that statement on anyone else's. Thanks Mark
  17. I will check tomorrow and make sure I have the correct brake/clutch set up. I have seen mustang Steve's website before. It will be a good double verification. I know I have the right brake boost. It was professional rebuilt locally. I will do the brake boost check also. Todays high was 17 and light snow and more of the same this weekend. Sounds like fun. Thanks Mark
  18. I did remember today that I did measure the boost rod before installing the last mc. The car originally had drums all around. The local mustang store has over1500 mustangs in their junk yard. That is where I also bought the car. I purchased all original type equipment. The only used parts are the front spindles and the brake boost. It is a 69 boost with the bent brake pedal push rod. The car was an automatic so I purchased a used brake/clutch pedals. I cant remember if it was from a 69 or 70. Is there a difference between the two years? Everyone here has been a great wealth of information and for that I am grateful. Mark
  19. A few months ago the local automotive shop did vacuum bleed the brakes. Since then I have replaced the mc and proportional valve a couple of times. When I drive it the nose doesn't dip nor does the rear brakes lock up. I haven't adjusted the booster rod since the original mc It seems to pull to the right sometimes if I press hard after the 3-4 pedal pumps. Is there a way to check if the brake boost is working correctly while mounted in the vehicle? Thanks for all the advice. Mark Not my thumb nails
  20. Ok let me clarify. With the car off I got very good brake pressure. It moves less then an inch then get hard. When I start the engine the pedal will go to the floor with little resistance. When I drive it I have to pump the brakes 3-4 times to get good pressure to stop. Every thing is new on the brakes including hoses. Previously I disconnected the front rubber lines and pumped the brakes to check fluid flow through the metal lines. It was good, then I attached the 2 front rubber lines and checked the fluid flow through the rubber hoses and it was good. What do I look for when checking the 3 rubber brake lines while someone is pumping the brakes? Thanks Mark
  21. Another update. Got the latest mc bench bleed. Installed it on the brake boost and no leaks. Did the brake bleed at the tires. Pedal is good and hard. Moves less then an inch and gets firm. Start the car and little to no resistance. I have to pump the brakes 3-4 times to get 50-75% normal brakes. I think I am going to have to do the aftermarket proportional valve or add inline pressure equalizier valve. Frustration continues but it was sure nice to drive it. Thanks Mark
  22. Thanks. After bench bleeding and sitting over night no leaks. I attached the mc to the brake boost. I will let it sit over night and check for leaks before attaching the 2 lines. One step at a time. After 5 months of having no brakes, I'm ready for some good news and some driving time. Thanks Mark
  23. I got a new brake boost seal from the guy that re built it. I checked inside the boost again and no evidence of fluid leakage. I bench bled the new mc and did it by the instructions. I will let it sit overnight on the work bench then check for leaks. If all is well, I will bolt it on the brake boost and let it sit overnight, then check for leaks again. If all goes well then I will bleed the brakes again. Thanks Mark
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