mark69sportsroof

Thanks I will keep you updated. So far so good. The Grant steering wheel fits fine and is otherwise good. Mark

Martiy, thanks for the help. I will add some dialectic. Mark

No the steering wheel does not lock. It appears it was install correctly from what little instructions there are. I had my mechanic look at it and he couldn't determined what caused it. So he filed down the two pins just short of making contact with the round copper plate. So far so good. Thanks for the input. Mark

Thanks everyone. I will try to find out why it's rubbing. I need to find the instructions and review them. Mark

Thanks everyone. I took the steering wheel off today. The white turn signal switch has some fine shavings inside the steering column housing. The back of the steering wheel has a copper plate. It appears the 2 have been rubbing. Is that normal? Do I take the switch off and rap behind it? Thanks Mark

Thanks Midlife. I will try it this weekend. Mark

Hi Everyone, the horn has started to recently started to go on and off while driving it on my 69. I have the Grant steering wheel with no other problems. Seems like I read before about putting tape over some screws underneath the steering wheel. Does anyone have a picture of how to do it? Thanks Mark

Thanks for all the advice. Does anyone know what the 2 unattached are used for? I definitely want to enhance my sound and not diminish it. Could I run a set of wires just from one speaker to the new dash speaker? I just remembered I have the Painless wiring not the factory wiring. Not sure if that would make a difference? Does anyone the size of speaker that would have been original? Thanks Mark

It says stereo on the front. Mark

Hi Everyone, I'm trying to add a dash speaker to the 69. The car originally came with an Am radio and dash speaker. During the restoration I upgraded the interior to the deluxe version with the speakers in the doors. I had an original Ford AM/FM radio refurbished. It all works good but now I would like to add the dash speaker. So now I have several questions. The wiring on the back show 4 wires that I can see. An orange with green stripes and red with green stripe. Both are attached somewhere I can't see. The other two wires are yellow with green stripe and pink with the blue stripe and both are unattached. The red wires might also by pinkish. Kind of hard tell from a photo. What would have been the standard size dash speaker size? Underneath the dash it has a metal radio mounting bracket. Is there a pre made harness to connect the radio to the speakers or do I just slice unto the door speaker wire? Thanks for your time and assistance. Mark

Thanks Barnett 468. I had no idea what it meant. Your explanation is easy to follow. I will follow up with my engine builder and see why he used that one. Thanks Mark

Punisher, sorry he sold them last night. Mark

Let me know if you still need some of the items. My friend has 2 boxes of misc parts on the Denver Craigslist. He said by next week he will just throw it all away. Mark

Hey Barnett468, could you explain to me what the "Duration Int/Exh" means and the difference from my 316 to the 231/239 you suggested. Thanks Mark

Thank you Barnett468 once again for the additional information. So if I understand everything correctly the best option would be change the cam. Second would be changing the rear end gears. Thanks to all. Mark

Ok let me add a few more items to clarify my engine. The cylinder compression tested at 145 psi. Pro-Comp 4340 forged I-beam rods, Mahle 4032 forged pistons, hiperf rod bearings, hiperf hd cam bearings and hyd lifters. The block was magnaflux, shot blast cleaned, sonic map block cylinder walls and blue printed. I have the Quickfuel "Hot Rod" 750 CFM carb with mechanical secondaries. The carb comes with 72 jets in front bowl and 82 in rear bowl. When it was dyno we had to change the front jets to 64 and the rear to 72 jets. The reason for changing the jets was to correct to air/fuel ratio. It was running way to rich. The was 2 guys at the dyno. One who just runs the dyno test and the second did all the adjustments. He also is a engine builder and was a NASCAR crew chief for 20 years. They were concerned about the 64 jets in the front bowl being to low and would cause pinging. Now remember I'm not even a journeyman mechanic so most of this is over my head. I took it for a drive and it ran strong and responsive. When I got back to the dyno both guys were anxious to see how it ran. I told them nothing and handed them the keys. They took it out and came back dumbfounded that it ran great and no pinging. They tried to get it to ping but couldn't. Later that week I my engine builder and the mechanic that does work on it were also very suspicious of the 64 jets. Both took it out for a drive and drove it hard, high RPM's and low speed in high tranny gears and couldn't get it to ping. I asked them what would they change and both said absolutely nothing. Both are now believers. The altitude and thinner air really does affect the building, tuning and performance of cars at 5000 - 10,000 feet. I drive it over 3 mountain passes that are of 11,000 feet. Sounds like I will just leave the rear gears alone and just drive it. Thanks Mark

Barnett468, sorry again I got caught up in all the cam numbers and forgot to answer the three questions. When I get on it I hit around 5000 rpm up to 6000 rpm. My Petronix 3 is set a 6300 I drive it on the weekends about 3-5 miles minimum and get on it 1-2 times I am open to give some peak rpm for more bottom end power. Just not sure what that curtails. Thanks Mark

Barnett468, I do have the E 240621 cam. Your numbers listed are pretty much the same. I'm not to mechanically incline so a lot of the numbers I don't understand. It sounds like the gear change won't help me gain more power. Good to know. Always learning and looking to fine tune the performance. Thanks I always look forward to your reponses along with rest of the gang here. Mark

1969_Mach1, It has 525 hp at the flywheel with 420 at tires. The Dyno guy shut it down at 5200 rpm due drive train vibrations. The RPM has a max of 6200. The drive train vibration has since been fixed. Also a Mile High elevation also affects it. Mark

Barnett468, here is what I got. Heads - BBM Gen 5.1 Alum FE heads Intake - Blue Thunder dual plane Alum 4V Cam - Erson FE Hyd cam Hi Flow 3H 240* .551* 108 Idle - smoother then rough max RPM - 6200 mufflers - Dr Gas spin pro 4 trap mufflers compression - told the builder I wanted max street able horsepower and torque engine x pipe - Dr Gas 3" X pipe hanks Mark

Thanks for all the advance. I have a professional built FE 390 with stroker to 445 ci. It has 11:1 compression. It has a Quickfuel 750 carb with mechanical secondaries. It has custom 2" headers with 3" exhaust from the header to the mufflers and 2 1/2" from muffler to tips. It has chassis dyno just over 400 hp and near 500 torque. The car is a cruiser and show car. I'm always looking to tweak more power out of it. I thought the higher gear ratio would increase the horsepower. Thanks Mark

Barnett468, Sorry about my poorly written question. Would there by any increase in hp or torque vs parts cost. Mark

Hey Everyone, I'm looking for expert advice on logic of changing my 69's rear end gears. I currently have a Ford 9" posi with 3:50 gears, 28 spline axles. I'm looking at changing over to 31 spline axles with 3:70 or 3:89 gears. Looking to increase horse power and torque. Tranny is a WC T-5. Thanks Mark

Thanks for all the great information on the process. Great advice and people at this site. Thanks again. Mark

Hi Everyone, I have been reading about all the temperature gauges and issues. My 73 Mach 1 seems to run half to 3/4 gauge hot when driving 40 mph or higher in mid 70's and up. Now I have replace the heater core in the 69 as it started leaking inside the cab. I want to flush and burp both systems. My question is did Ford outline specific instructions on how to properly burp the system? Thanks Mark