cavboy78

or mustang steve brackets with OEM style late model mustang hardware...

if I were to do this all over again, I would rebuild locally with an experienced machine shop, they can do the same build and you can buy parts and have them install it.
Most online crate engines are affordable but some companies use a mix of off-shore/brand name parts to keep cost down. 
only issue I have with online crate motors if something goes wrong with the engine, you have to take it out (or pay someone to take it out) and ship it back to them for repair, which takes more time and money.
 

Buy an Aeromotive Stealth 2 Gas tank : very happy with - cost a the end is not really higher

I started with a 70 sports roof with c4 and 2bbl 302. I currently has a T5, 8 inch rear (3.89), and a 351w roller block that is about 430hp/430tq (thread is below on engine build). I have lowering engine mounts and a drop base air cleaner, but have proper clearance for my rpm air gap intake manifold. FWIW, I have been driving it this way for years and the T5 and 8 inch rear end have not exploded. I would do it again. Plenty of power now and room for more if i want to make it a stroker later on. 
 

She probably caught him synchronizing and maximizing his scavenging

I try to use the least aggressive method first. I would try a clay bar. Amazing how it can take trash out of paint.

Yes, and if i remember correctly it's actually a very small clevis pin.

I went for the CJPP LEDs. In Australia you can't have the brake lights blinking so I did a little mod. I also added a brake light under the spoiler. Walking past the rear you can't se it until you crouch down. Not for everyone but I want to lessen the chances of a rear ender.

Left out a couple of things, the FPAs are expensive but are top notch quality. The ceramic coating still looks good after 10 or so years and they tuck up pretty tight underneath. 

A day late posting, but Roxy turned 50 yesterday! The second picture is the day i bought her in 2007 after a 16 month deployment to Afghanistan (and a gift to myself). The last shows her nestled in with the rest of the corral (Rowdy and Rhonda).

I do not understand how moving the bottom of vertical guides do not move the top of the glass in or out especially if the window is in up position. It should move the glass but may be not enough movement for it to sit on the weatherstrip right. If the movement you get is not enough, you can put shims under the plastic guides to tilt the glass. I use hard plastic package material to make thin strips of shims (with a slot for the plastic guides to go through) and paper masking tape to make up the thickness I need. If you put shims under the lower outboard plastics and upper inboard ones, you will move the top of the glass inboard a little bit (this will also reduce the sloppiness). You can also put shims under the top bolts that attach the C-channel to glass (shim goes between the glass and the C-channel bracket) to move the top of the glass inboard. You can use fender/alignment shims or make your own from sheet metal.
I assume you will be installing new reproduction outside felts made by Repops. These felts are not as thick as the originals and your glass may not touch them and seal when up (I think I have pictures comparing the the Repops to original in one of my posts here if you want to see the difference). Repops felts made 4-5 years ago were correct thickness, but not anymore. I recommend installing the felts before you adjust the glass. If the glass is not sealing to the felt when up, you have to bend the tab on the door where the vertical channels are attached, or cut the top mounting piece of the channel and weld it after you moved the vertical part outboard a little bit to get the glass closer to the felt and seal.
Adjusting aftermarket glass while using aftermarket felt is a long frustrating job (having felt with correct thickness makes it a little easier). If your car is a coupe, it is more work to get the quarter glass to seal with felt and weatherstrip.
I went through this on a coupe last year (original glass, Repops felt) and had to do all the tricks I posted above to get the glasses aligned and seal. I wish you a lot of patience and good luck.
 
 
 
 

A day late posting, but Roxy turned 50 yesterday! The second picture is the day i bought her in 2007 after a 16 month deployment to Afghanistan (and a gift to myself). The last shows her nestled in with the rest of the corral (Rowdy and Rhonda).

Then you can ignore what I said above.
You'll have to get in line behind the wife, though...

I used 1994 Cobra Brakes, and the Mustang Steve Conversion brackets.  Fits perfectly.
 

The tire weight has virtually no effect on tracking, but the width and the shape of the tire does. Narrower tires and tires with more of a curved tread face follow irregularities in the road less.
These have nearly no affect on how much of the tire contacts the road.

Hi Mystang
I am on the same mission as you, trying to get my car to handle well and not wonder all over the road.
I have done the UCA drop and the roller spring perch and I didn't notice any substantial improvement.
What did make a huge difference was installing a strut suspension and rack and pinion steering.
The main problem with the Mustang front suspension is that the scrub radius is too big and not enough caster.
The picture below is Fatman's strut, http://www.fatmanfab.com/product/1964-½-1966-ford-mustang-strut-ifs-conversion-kit
However I made my own with BC coilovers for Volvo V70 (I live in Sweden), I kept the lower control arms and strut rods. All I did was to fabricate a bracket to attach the coilovers to the original spindle and bolted it to shock tower using the original holes. I did remove the guide plate spot welded underneath the shock tower. I am running Wilwood brakes so I was able to use the holes for the original brake callipers to secure the bracket. Another advantage is the ease of adjusting ride hight.

This modification decreased the scrub radius from about 80mm to 40mm. I can highly recommend this mod.

Another and easier way of decreasing the scrub radius is to use a wheel with more back spacing.
Although I now can sit and drive with one hand on the steering I am not yet satisfied so this winter I am installing a IRS from a 2015 Mustang.
I am not giving up until my Mustang drives like a modern car.
If you are lowering the UCA make sure you move them back as far as possible to increase caster at the same time.
Good luck
 

few pics of my girl

Recent discussion on another thread was about putting speakers in kick panels, where the air vents are.   There are differences between the '69 and '70 models worth noting, if you are going to modify your kick panel vents.
So, you ask why is there a little vent in the door lock pillar on the 1970's, but not on the 1969's...?    For the Mustangs, several things happened....the first was that the vent windows previously used on the 1966-1968 Mustangs were eliminated.   Second, on the fastbacks, there are no air extractors.    So, with the windows rolled up in the 1969's...not much air moving around.  So, if you were smoking say a pipe.....the passenger compartment would look like the "Up in Smoke" movie scene in no time...   
Ford engineers to the rescue....they invent "Direct Aire"
This is a flow through ventilation system.   It uses the cowl vents, and a space under the rear seat to allow air to flow into the car, under the seat, through the trunk, and out the one way door lock pillar vents....     Huh?  Really?
See page 6 of the attached document.  (GM had already figured this out and offered the same kind of thing in the Camaro's)
So, if you eliminate your kick panel vents in your Mustang, you may have a little less air movement in the car.  Unless you have factory A/C, then that handles the issue nicely.
 
 
ShopTips8-1.pdf

You can buy a thermostat housing with a threaded port already in it. .
https://www.cjponyparts.com/thermostat-housing-with-threaded-port-260-289-302-351w-1965-1973/p/TH16/

Most are aware distributors advertised as Ready-To-Run mean they do not need any type of external ignition box or external ignition module.  It doesn't mean the timing curve is optimized for your motor.
An original distributor would be okay for a mild motor.  But, be cautious of a used or rebuilt original distributor.  The bushing and breaker plate usually wear out.  Bushings are replaced on rebuilt distributors but not breaker plates.  It's been a long time since I tinkered with stock ford points distributors, but I remember when the breaker plate wears, as the vacuum advance increases the timing, the dwell reduces.  I've seen breaker plates worn to the point that the dwell reduces so much the motor starts misfiring when the vacuum advance starts increasing the timing.

I will have to chime in for the FPA longtubes. Expensive, but you get what you pay for. Fits my 70 with a 351w, cable clutch, and borgeson steering box. Never thought i'd get longtubes to fit in that space, but they dropped in perfectly. fit and finish is top notch and still look great 10 years later. 

Introducing the new MTF stainless steel tailpipes! They are designed to work with any 4-link, 3-link, or Watts Link set up. This can also be used for any standard rear end. There are no clearance issues with coil overs. Made out of stainless steel 2 1/2" tube and is designed to bolt on to most factory hanger locations. This will work with any standard valance with exhaust cut outs. Finishing up shipping boxes and pricing now.

Yes good point on the trans, however,  It will be fine as long as you dont  dump the clutch or speed shift it 

The new  Stainless Steel  catches are in stock.

I haven't heard a word from him.  From his wife?  Oh yes, a whole lot of complaining, yelling, and cursing.