cavboy78

Looks great! I'm just not sure what, "the car is all done" means...

FPA longtubes. Never in a million years did I think I would get longtubes to fit in there. Stan at FPA actually took cable clutch and the borgeson dimensions into consideration when designing his latest version of headers. They are expensive, but I would do it again in a heartbeat!

ok. not sure about the hydro clutch and clearance issues with that. I also have adjustable motor mounts and that helped a good amount.

Machspeed, What kind of clutch do you have? Hydro, cable? I just know it gets really tight in there between the larger dimension of the box, headers, any my clutch cable. Those shorties should be good as long as they are the ones designed for the 351w and hug the block tighter. I have a 351w too and that doesn't help. (i know, i know FE guys. I shouldn't complain!)

Google "mustang borgeson power steering conversion" and you will have a bunch of links and articles that are way more lengthy and detailed, with pictures. It should help way more than my ramblings above.

Machspeed, There are some threads on here somewhere, but in a nutshell...You remove the box, the power steering control valve and all the hoses. The new box goes in where the old one did. It is a little larger in a couple of places than the original box and may cause some clearance issues with some headers. I have FPA longtubes that were designed to work around that tight spot. You can use your original p/s pump or use the saginaw one. I used the saginaw pump. There has been mixed reviews with using the original pump, attributed to pressure, I think. P/S hoses go straight from the pump to the box. I think most of the return to center issues were resolved with some extra camber...more than normal.

Yes, Look into the Borgeson box conversion. You can keep your power steering and get rid of the inevitably leaky ram and hoses from underneath. Unless you have fab skills, a drop in R&P will cost double what the Borgeson conversion costs. Only downside, is if you plan on putting in an aftermarket steering column, won't work with the Borgeson...unless something has changed.

I guess I'm different since I don't have the valence cut outs to begin with. I personally would dump in front of the rear tires before I go under the axle. If you go under, just make sure you measure clearance with axle at full or nearly full droop, not as it sits normally.

Depending on how much wiggle room you have over the axle, you could look at some oval tubing. Cons would primarily be ground clearance & corresponding potential damage...oh, and looks!

lots of threads on using fiero seats on this forum...

x2. That's what's on my 351w. Best bang for the buck that i could find. A few years on them with no issues.

Tried to send a PM, but your inbox is full.

No kidding. Good to know. Did you want the vintage venom kit specifically, or just any kit? reason I'm asking is I may switch to the mustang steve kit when i decide to switch my rims up.

vintage venom is also an option. similiar to mustang steve's.

awesome license plate, by the way...

not my thumbnail...

I did not buy an additional harness for my install. A thread on here somewhere describes how the wires are hooked up in pretty good detail. I don't remember everything, since it was a while ago, but it involoved removing the voltage regulator since it's now built into the alt itself.

I am using a Tuff Stuff silver bullet alternator I bought from Summit. The silver bullet version includes a nice v-belt billet aluminum pulley. It is billed as a hybrid case...GM case with Ford mounting ears. I had to clock the alt, but it has worked great.

any reason to avoid the box altogether and run an MSD ready to run dizzy? I haven't run a box with mine and have no issues...and no box.

I typed this up a few days ago, but forgot to post. A couple of questions/thoughts as I plan the EFI install... - First, has anyone used or considered glenns performance tanks? This looks like an affordable option that does two things that i want...an in tank pump, and it keeps the fuel lines outside the trunk area, which is a plus for me because the battery will be going back there (spark and fuel together anywhere, but the combustion chamber, is never a good thing) - Second, is there any reason why I can't just buy a hard line fuel kit form CJPP (or wherever) and run that along the existing fuel line? I know some minor routing changes would be required at the ends with some PFTE, but it seems cost effective and safe. I'm just not sure if there is some reasoning behind running the return line on the opposite side of the delivery line...

let me know next time you come on through!

Damn, ordered one up about two months ago. Haven't installed yet, but should be in by end of January...

still in...

it would be great if they came out with a column that works for a '70 and works with the burgeon box... I'd buy it in a second...rant off.

I've been doing some research on EFI for a while now and ready to pull the trigger soon. I was thinking of going with the MSD Atomic setup, but this may be too good a deal to pass up. Count me in for now. I'll do some more reading and make sure this will do everything I need it too. Thanks for the work rsanter!