alex

I need them for a 1970. For some reason I have 1970 spindles on a 1969. Thanks for the offer. I would love to purchase these otherwise.

Those are good statistics. Thanks for posting that.

Not screwed to the metal frame but instead screwed to the fiberglass tray. The base of the speaker protrudes into the already existing speaker holes in the metal frame. What provides rigidity to the fiberglass tray to prevent the tray from moving and vibrating with the speaker?

I have a couple of 6.5" speakers to install in the package tray of a 69 fastback. For those that have already done this, did you mount the speaker to the bottom of the metal frame under the the package tray or did you mount to the top of the package tray itself?

Has anyone installed the StopTech slotted brake rotor and can provide some feedback? Specifically I am interested in the brake rotors at http://www.cjponyparts.com/stoptech-brake-rotor-slotted-factory-disc-brakes-driver-side-1970-1973/p/BR19L/

I followed the same video however, I could not determine if the window was placed inside down (brackets would not follow the contour of the glass) or outside down (brackets would follow the contour of the glass).

Should the brackets, when glued, follow/extend the curve of the window or should the brackets break away from the curve and extend straight down? Obviously, I am gluing the brackets with the window out of the car.

Does anyone have a link to the Mustang Monthly article on gluing the side windows? I have searched but not found the article. Guess I should have bookmarked the article when I found it a few months ago.

It was worth a try. I live in western Cary. All the ideas that have been offered are great. I am sure this thread will be a valuable resource for anyone who is looking for a front rotor upgrade. I did try many times to contact Vintage Venom but perhaps due to the holiday there was no response. I will try again after the new year.

Wouldn't want to sell yours would you? :)

Good information. I talked to Shaun who was very helpful and also had great information. He mentioned that they no longer sell those particular brackets but instead market a kit that includes all necessary parts (rotor, caliper, hoses, bearings, etc). The kit (http://www.streetortrack.com/Street-or-Track-13x1.25-Rotor-4-Piston-Forged-Aluminum-Caliper-Brake-System-pr-24556.html) looks great, but the price is out of the range I would like to spend. Presumably if I was able to find just the brackets, I could do this for quite a bit cheaper and end up with the same system.

Thanks. I had a moment to call them and was told that they do not have any larger disc options. Any other ideas out there for increasing the disc size without changing the spindle?

Yes, from my research so far it appears that a common path is to convert from front drums to large front discs. However, wanting to minimize the parts that I replace, what options do I have for larger than factory front discs?

What options are available for replacing the factory front brake rotors on a 1969 351W with larger rotors? Is it possible to replace only the rotors and calipers? Oddly, this car has the larger 1970 wheel bearings.

Does the front bolt on the rear leaf spring require lubrication when installing? If so, what lube should be used?

FS - 10†x 2†rear drums. Brand new. Never used. Purchased from CJ (http://www.cjponyparts.com/brake-drum-rear-10-x-2-1967-1973/p/BD6/) but went a different direction. $50 for the pair plus shipping.

Thanks. I can see how the measurements fit together now.

I was transferring your measurements to my door panel. Do you happen to have a measurement from the top of the panel to the top of the cut?

Great pictures. Thanks! Just need to order the bezel now.

That would be great. Thanks!

This is starting to make sense now. The deluxe door panel (http://www.cjponyparts.com/door-panel-deluxe-interior-pair-1969/p/DPD3-V/) obviously does have a cutout for the mirror remote bezel. My standard door panels (http://www.cjponyparts.com/door-panel-standard-pair-1969/p/DPS5-V/) do not have an obvious cutout for the bezel as you can see in the attached picture. Is there a way to accurately position the bezel in a standard panel without the perforations?

My car is a 1969. I have the standard door panels which, as I understand it, means a remote with a straight shaft is used with the shaft protruding from the panel at a right angle. Is this assumption correct? The 1970 version was the 90 degree shaft, correct?

Thanks, that is good to know. Can anyone else jump in here? Just want to to confirm. I would dislike cutting the door panel only to find out otherwise.

I am trying to determine what hole the mirror remote will go through to and be mounted to the door panel and cannot find a definitive answer. Looking at the attached image to this post, I would say the top round hole almost directly above window crank. Correct??

I have had ok luck with my rebuilt pump from Oreilly's. My understanding is that Cardone is the only rebuilder of pumps unless you go with an individual company not supplying a chain. The one issue that I have is that my pump belt squeals when I hit about 3K rpm. I have the correct pulleys and belt. Not sure if it is an issue with the pump or elsewhere in the steering system.