alex

Thanks Mike. Those bolts give a little gap between the hood and scoop it appears. I guess my hood incorrectly came with the bolts for the shaker scoop.

Good question. I am using https://www.cjponyparts.com/69-70-boss-429-ram-air-hood-scoop-20-hardware-only-1969-1970/p/F1259/ . However now that you point it out, it appears that I should be using https://www.cjponyparts.com/amk-products-hood-scoop-mounting-hardware-kit-1969/p/HW1764/ which has a integrated washer/spacer. Can you or anyone confirm this?

I pulled the non-functional hood scoop off the hood and found that the hood scoop was wearing a groove in the paint. Is there any insulation that was used from the factory to protect the paint? Is there an unobtrusive way to protect the paint?

That looks like a lot of work that you did for the driver's side header. Comparing the two pictures it looks like you moved each tube with six and seven seeing the most change. Five and eight were also moved as well. Correct? Not having had header work done previously, how much did the changes cost?

The number 7 pipe routing is a good point. Does anyone have some experience with how close that pipe gets to the master cylinder? I will look at the JBA headers as well.

Does anyone have experience with the Hedman Elite mid-length 88658 headers? How is the fit? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88658 The application is a 1969 Fastback with a 351W. Future plans are a more modern five speed transmission.

I am not on a budget at all but do want to make sure that the changes I make are useful. I think with the input from this thread I have the information I need. Thanks for the quick replies. Keep the conversation going though if there is more information.

My immediate goal is to replace a worn out spring perch. The long term goal is to improve the handling with no intention to race the car nor spend thousands of dollars on the suspension. Perhaps not a very helpful description of goals. Btw, I have also converted my car to manual steering.

Thanks for the information Brian. Not the feedback I was expecting. From the description of the performance version, it seems to be part of the way to the roller version with the ability to rotate further on the shaft. Any idea what could result in less definite tracking with the performance version? I have already done the arning drop, adjustable strut rods and put in drop springs. The typical low budget changes.

Those differences do look like a good improvement. Any first-hand experience with the performance version?

1969. I guess that would be helpful. I would consider the roller perches but wanted to first explore the difference between the two I mentioned originally.

Is the difference between the following two coil spring saddles enough to justify the price difference? https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-coil-spring-saddle-high-performance-1965-1973/p/CSS4/ https://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-coil-spring-saddle-1965-1973/p/C4DZ3388RI/

Reading reviews of a new bumper at https://www.cjponyparts.com/bumper-rear-chrome-1969-1970/p/B3R/ it appears that there might be a few fitment issues. Any suggestions on the best fitting/quality rear bumper other than finding an original?

I am looking specifically for instructions to crimp this terminal. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CT509/N0607.oap

I must have been in a rush to post my question and it got a bit messed up. I have updated the original post.

I need to make a coil to distributor wire and purchased a couple of terminals (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CT509/N0607.oap) and distributor boots (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/CT512.oap). I ran into an issue when I realised I have no idea how to crimp this particular terminal to a wire. I could not find any instructions online either. Anyone have an idea?

I put Red Stuff EBC brake pads on the front of my car a while ago. The passenger side pads fit snuggly in the calipers however the driver side outboard pad move around enough to rattle while driving. There is no hardware that holds the outboard brake pads in place. Has anyone had this issues and resolved it?

The website no longer exists however, you can view it here. http://web.archive.org/web/20151020205912/http://folddownseat.com/

What is the gasket between the fender and the headlight bucket? I did a quick search but did not find it.

The turn signal light receptacle clips into the turn signal housing ( Take a look at http://www.cjponyparts.com/amp-hood-mounted-turn-signal-wiring-harness-1969-1970/p/WHD2/ and zoom in on the light bulb receptacle. Or do you mean, how does the turn signal housing (http://www.cjponyparts.com/hood-turn-signal-lamp-1969-1970/p/HDTS2/) attach to the hood scoop? The housing does use screws to attach to the scoop.

Can you post a link to these videos? I found a Jodie but no obvious Jamie.

I am looking around for a 351W block to build. Nothing crazy, no forced induction. I have found a 351W block in a 1989 F-150 with a casting number of E9AE-6015-AA-11. Is this a block that would be a good starting point for a 408 build? If not, what would be a good starting point?

I am looking for a single groove crank pulley of part number D0OE-6312-A. Condition is not important other than undamaged and straight.

Thanks. Let me know please.

I found the time to retrieve the numbers (listed under this paragraph) from the crank and water pump pulleys. Both of these pulleys, according to http://www.mustangtek.com/pulley/Pulley.html are from a 1970-73 351W. Looking at the diameters of the existing pulleys and the C90E-8509-E water pump pulley (6 61/64 "), the pulleys would interfere unless I switch both crank and water pump pulleys. This was stated by others earlier in this thread. Crank - D0AE-6312-C - 8 13/32" outer diameter Water pump - C9OE-8509-F - 5 15/16 " outer diameter My intention has always been to eventually convert to a serpentine belt system. Perhaps I will explore that option instead of buying two pulleys that are a bit expensive from what I have found. Expect another thread with more questions about that possibility. And thanks to everyone that helped in this thread. I hope the information in this thread is helpful to others.