Flanders

I've got 275's in the rear of mine.  No rolling required, no rubbing. Still need to lower the front-end a bit, but lots of room.
front: 17 x 8 with  4.75 bs
back: 17 x 9.5 with 5.7 bs              
front: 245/45/17
back: 275/40/17

Just wrapping this up -- I put QA1 single-adjustables in the rear, and it's definitely softened it up a bit.  Still firm, but not jolting anymore over the bumps! 

Worked like a charm.  I measured twice and cut 4 times (doh) but this finally did the trick. I was able to move the trans over by 1/4" (maybe even just 3/16") and it got rid of my rubbing.  My crappy old rubber mount may need replacing soon anyway (it's old.) but it's an easy thing to modify again if required.  Driveshaft goes in next, so fingers crossed all my trans/driveshaft/pinion angles are good.
 

My TKO sits right across on the passenger side too. Using all MDL mounts.
Seems to sit well front to rear in the hole, but not side to side.

Worked like a charm.  I measured twice and cut 4 times (doh) but this finally did the trick. I was able to move the trans over by 1/4" (maybe even just 3/16") and it got rid of my rubbing.  My crappy old rubber mount may need replacing soon anyway (it's old.) but it's an easy thing to modify again if required.  Driveshaft goes in next, so fingers crossed all my trans/driveshaft/pinion angles are good.
 

Just to follow up, I've sorted out my clearance issues.  I had moved my engine forward about 1/2" so that my (new) TKX transmission mount would line up properly.  If I put the engine back to where it was (smack head!) then things line up perfectly.  I do need a new z-bar as mine is bent and reinforced (way before I owned this car), which also helps with the clearance.
I need to butcher up my tkx crossmember, but I can deal with that much easier.

I have a TKX in my 69 coupe and it is mounted with the second bracket that you have pictured, the oblong holes are towards the rear of the car, so based on the picture I would say it mounts on the back 

So are you using a crime housing like shown or is it bare steel?
 
i have done this several ways but using the ford pump
I have always been able to find an adapter through summit that will go from the high pressure to AN.
now you need to look at what the pressure really will be because many power steering systems can over pressure the regular or lower grade AN stuff.
on my 69 I used product from Fragola that was rated for higher than the PS pressures.
 
for the low pressure side, I have welded adapters to the housing, I have also used a compression fitting on the little outlet and I have just used a hose clamp on the braided line

I do like the KRC pump, however if seems if I go with a CVF serpentine, I need to go with their Wraptor system (it's the only one for SBF engine with GM type-2 pump mount).  Unfortunately, it moves the alt to the drivers side, and costs $1000 more, which I'm not keen on.  Spec-wise, a saginaw pump with pressure reducer value should do the trick.
Maybe I can convert/modify their "Beast" bracket to support the KRC pump?
https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-289-302-351w-serpentine-conversion-kit-alternator-power-steering/
We'll see. Otherwise, lanky expect a PM.

When I got my car (8+ years ago) it came with a grant steering wheel, which looks great, but I found that the turn signal canceller worked only intermittently.  I lived with it for a while, "fixed" it a few times, but only recently sorted out what's going on.
There is a pin in the turn signal switch that needs to engage in a little slot on the steering wheel adapter. In my case, the pin wasn't engaging fully in the slot (see pic) and kept popping out.

You can see it's worn down the adapter so it's nice and shiny, when it pops out of the slot.
Anyhow, 3D printer for the win.  I made up a ring that fits around the adapter so that the pin on the steering wheel switch had more of a notch to engage in.
My prototype:

 
works like a champ!  I've cleaned it up a bit so it sits flush with the metal ring, plus a little screw keeps it all in place (although it's pretty snug on the metal ring).  My turn signal cancellation thingy has never worked better.  In the above pic, there are two holes for some 'pins' to go in the original one (for turn cancellation) but it was a bit sketchy as the a) I don't have the pins, and b) the instructions to put in the pins say "bend them inwards" which I wasn't a fan of, and c) the holes are all oval anyway.
Anyhow, thought I'd pass this along in case others are sick of their aftermarket steering wheels not cancelling their turn signals properly.

this probably won't help, but I managed to get 90% of this kit for dirt cheap at a swap meet (actually, the kit I have has interior parts too):
https://www.cjponyparts.com/amk-products-master-body-kit-1969/p/MBK5/
Someone only wanted a few of the baggies out of it, so I picked it up for beans.  I've barely used it, but when I have, it's been priceless.  Sorry not helpful but just keep an eye out on ebay or craigslist!

When I got my car (8+ years ago) it came with a grant steering wheel, which looks great, but I found that the turn signal canceller worked only intermittently.  I lived with it for a while, "fixed" it a few times, but only recently sorted out what's going on.
There is a pin in the turn signal switch that needs to engage in a little slot on the steering wheel adapter. In my case, the pin wasn't engaging fully in the slot (see pic) and kept popping out.

You can see it's worn down the adapter so it's nice and shiny, when it pops out of the slot.
Anyhow, 3D printer for the win.  I made up a ring that fits around the adapter so that the pin on the steering wheel switch had more of a notch to engage in.
My prototype:

 
works like a champ!  I've cleaned it up a bit so it sits flush with the metal ring, plus a little screw keeps it all in place (although it's pretty snug on the metal ring).  My turn signal cancellation thingy has never worked better.  In the above pic, there are two holes for some 'pins' to go in the original one (for turn cancellation) but it was a bit sketchy as the a) I don't have the pins, and b) the instructions to put in the pins say "bend them inwards" which I wasn't a fan of, and c) the holes are all oval anyway.
Anyhow, thought I'd pass this along in case others are sick of their aftermarket steering wheels not cancelling their turn signals properly.

When I got my car (8+ years ago) it came with a grant steering wheel, which looks great, but I found that the turn signal canceller worked only intermittently.  I lived with it for a while, "fixed" it a few times, but only recently sorted out what's going on.
There is a pin in the turn signal switch that needs to engage in a little slot on the steering wheel adapter. In my case, the pin wasn't engaging fully in the slot (see pic) and kept popping out.

You can see it's worn down the adapter so it's nice and shiny, when it pops out of the slot.
Anyhow, 3D printer for the win.  I made up a ring that fits around the adapter so that the pin on the steering wheel switch had more of a notch to engage in.
My prototype:

 
works like a champ!  I've cleaned it up a bit so it sits flush with the metal ring, plus a little screw keeps it all in place (although it's pretty snug on the metal ring).  My turn signal cancellation thingy has never worked better.  In the above pic, there are two holes for some 'pins' to go in the original one (for turn cancellation) but it was a bit sketchy as the a) I don't have the pins, and b) the instructions to put in the pins say "bend them inwards" which I wasn't a fan of, and c) the holes are all oval anyway.
Anyhow, thought I'd pass this along in case others are sick of their aftermarket steering wheels not cancelling their turn signals properly.

Light smoke might also mean leaking head gasket.  I'd double check oil and coolant to be sure the coolant isn't low, and theres no water in the oilpan.  This possiblity though is down the road from all the other advice....

Thanks guys for the replies!
I'll get my PCV hooked up properly.  As it turns out, the PCV I've been using for the past 8 years had a blob of RTV in it, effectively rendering it useless (thanks, previous owner!).   This might explain a lot of the smelly issues, and constantly leaking rear main seal.  I didn't notice until just a few weeks ago, while I was swapping hoses around and cleaning things out.

The above method only works if the steering arms are the same length,  or if the centerlink is not connected to the pitman arm.
If I were you Flanders, I'd measure the length of each steering arm then lengthen the shorter one an equal amount you shorten the longer one. Maybe do one turn at a time. Once they're equal do the above method to find center. When the box is centered the pitman arm and idler arm connections to the center link will be equal distance to the inner edge of the frame rail. 

sweet.  Thanks for the tips.  I scored another JBA manifold gasket locally for free, so will try it first assuming perhaps it was an installation issue (?).  If it fails, I really like that soft aluminum one!  I've got a windsor, so your summit link is perfect.  Locking stage 8 bolts too, just in case.

Figured I'd wrap this up -- the PA Performance guys have great support, doing through various voltage measurements at various spots to debug it down to a faulty internal voltage regulator in the alternator.  This is an easily serviceable part (small part that screws into back of alternator) and the new one has solved all my issues.  Thanks Mach1Driver for the feedback as well, you were spot-on in your analysis :)  
I saw it at 13.8V on the battery after I started up the engine and ~14.4V after a little test drive. 

ended up with the black stainless steel Lokar cable for the Borla 8-stack injection system.  Basically identical throttle parts as Inglese.  I'm not convinced yet that the S-bend in my cable is going to give me perfectly smooth operation once I'm driving, but for now it works.  The clip for the gas pedal worked after about 20 seconds with the dremel -- didn't need to take much off to make it fit.  A few pics for reference.
 
 
 
 

I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key.  Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU.  I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on.  It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next...
 
hopefully link works:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9

I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key.  Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU.  I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on.  It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next...
 
hopefully link works:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9

I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key.  Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU.  I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on.  It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next...
 
hopefully link works:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9

I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key.  Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU.  I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on.  It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next...
 
hopefully link works:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9

Just to wrap up this thread -- I bent the flange at the top of my '70 filler neck, just a little bit, with the help of my vise and got things to line up quite nicely.  Any funky-ness in the flange (it's admittedly not 100% flat now) didn't cause any other issues.  It still bolted tightly against the gasket, and the gas cap covers it up anyway.  So, for anyone putting this tank in your '69 mustang, make sure to get a '70 filler neck.
 

well, not sure yet :D  it should, as I don't understand where else the voltage regulator's field output is supposed to get used.  I'll report back once my engine bay is assembled again.