Flanders

flamethrowerII and ignitorII require 12V (so yeah, need to bypass pink wire). From behind my ignition switch, I popped out the pink wire and replaced it with a regular wire. I routed this wire through the firewall (right beside the pink wire) and spliced it into the harness on the engine-side of the firewall. I kept the pink wire in there, zipped strapped to the new wire, for prosperity...it's not doing anything anymore. This was the easiest route for me, and didn't add any extra wires in the engine bay.

Keep factory distributor+cap in there, but replace the guts of your distributor with a pertronix ignitor module. If you get the ignitorI module, you can use your factory coil too. http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

woo-hoo! Glad to hear it's alive :) I left the pink resistance wire behind the dash, unconnected. It's not hurting anything, and at least it's there should the next care-taker of my car ever want to use it again. I've had no problems with my flamethrowerII coil either. To the untrained eye, it looks original so I can't complain! Hope you had fun at Bristol! I was at my first NASCAR race two years ago in Atlanta, and am headed to my 2nd one in Talledega in October :)

yep, i'm in the same boat. A few stickers to sharpen up the engine bay!

In my 351W, I replaced the 'pink resistance wire' from behind my ignition switch (it goes from there to the connector on the engine-side of the firewall) with a regular wire. Now I've got 12V to the coil and power wire for the pertronix. When it was first installed, I had just the stock wiring. I found the pertronix worked great when it was 'cold' (ie. the resistance wire has no resistance) and the car would start no problem. Once everything warmed up, there was now resistance on that wire and the pertronix was not getting a full 12V and would 'miss' now and then. When the car was turned off, it wouldn't start until it had all completely cooled off again. I believe the instructions for the ignitor 2 and 3 (and coils) are pretty specific with getting 12V, and not using the resistance wire.

thanks I was looking for this too. I've seen various orientations of the shock tower sticker(s) -- aside from hitting up a concours judge, is there any way to figure out which plant did what?

I've got the ignitorII and flamethrower II coil too. Just remember to wire up 12V directly to the module! (skip the pink resistor wire!)

Love the chin spoiler :D And your idle sounds great!!

Car looks fantastic! What size Torq Thrusts are those? 14" or 15? What's your tire size too? (can't find the info in this build thread!) I'm in the market for rims, and just gathering info :)

What Midlife said. You'll need the resistor wire for your set-up. The resistor wire goes from the ign switch to the coil.

was there a Flanders present? Either a black mach1 428cj or a while mach1 351...

do you have a pic of this?

Ah, back in the day when drag racing was much cooler :D I was a bit disappointed, at my first US nationals last year (indianapolis), the only nostalgia (or even experimental?) drags were the gassers.

looks fantastic! Elbow grease was well worth it!

Restomod -- the car originally had shoulder straps, but when we put the new headliner in, I didn't want to install the straps. I didn't like how they dangle down when unused (as you've described, they hang horizontally, but tend to droop). The hole I cut in the headliner matched up with the existing threaded nut that was welded to the fastback pillar. This nut was used for the 'old' seatbelt strap. So for your install, you'd remove the old shoulder strap and re-use the hole for the new retractable belt. Raven -- I ordered from my link above (http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/conversion-van-seat-belt.html) so it was $70 per side, plus shipping to Canada.

good to know, thanks!

motor looks great. That's a damn clean engine bay! In the engine pic, is there an upper rad mount missing? I just re-painted mine the other day, that's the only reason I noticed -- mine has A/C and is a bit wider than yours -- not sure if they mount differently or not. Just curious!

Personally, I rely on a tried-tested-and-true multimeter: http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-115-Compact-True-RMS-Multimeter/dp/B000OCFFMW it does everything I ever need it to do :) the thought of piercing leads and then applying a voltage to it (by the flick of a switch on the power probe) just doesn't seem right to me. I'm familiar with electrical circuits anyway, so I'd rather have a proper multimeter any day.

I have an Ignitor II, and it works like a champ. I matched it with their FlamethrowerII coil, and removed my resistor wire (replaced with regular wire). It idles very nicely, no complaints at all about it. No rev-limiter feature on the II, but I wouldn't hesitate to buy another one.

Too bad it snowed for the big Spring Thaw show this past weekend! Nice ride!

wow that engine looks great. I can't wait to see it shoe-horned in the engine bay, along with all the intake/exhaust plumbing :D

That's an IgnitorI, which will work with the stock coil and resistance wire. The IgnitorII and III need a straight 12V (no resistor).

WOW. That's a work of art. Love it!

I replaced the rear main seal last year, and I'm still leaking oil out the back. Before I try and replace the seal again, I was going to re-silicone the split on the rear main bearing cap. Is it pretty common to just RTV the crap out of it? Is there anywhere else I should be sealing up? I'm going on the assumption that the rear main is put in correctly. I figure I'll re-seal the bearing cap, and tighten up the oil pan bolts a bit. Thought I'd ping the experts to see if there's anything else I can do to help fix this.

I got a spray-can of upholstry/fabric glue, and a sheet of vinyl from the fabric store. Worked great! It might be starting to bubble up in one section, on the curve -- a few heat cycles in the sun has stretched things out a bit. I think I should have used more glue, but it should be an easy fix. (peel it back, and re-glue)