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Flanders

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Everything posted by Flanders

  1. Flanders
    Yes, thanks for being more accurate. That is the picture and wire that I am referring to. In the instructions that came with the PA Performance alternator, it says to wire the green/red wire (from their alternator connector) to a 12V ignition source. This is different than your described wiring. I've wired mine according to your illustration, however this difference confused me a bit. I don't know why PA's instructions say to use the 12V ignition source (for it's green/red connector wire) rather than the Field output of the regulator, so thought I'd mention it here.
  2. Flanders
    Bringing an old (but great) post back to life... the PA performance instructions say to connect their green/red wire (from alternator connector) to an ignition wire (also green red) from the engine. The illustrations in the first post say to connect the green/red from the alternator to the orange wire from the voltage regulator. This wasn't addressed in any of the Notes. Is this a mistake on the PA Performance instructions?
  3. Flanders
    Thanks for the tips. Is there a good how-to for the 3G conversion, dumbing it down a bit more than the how-to in the 1st post :) Seems pretty easy to find a 3G alternator from a 1999-2004 mustang.
  4. Flanders
    I found a lot of great info in the below how-to thread, however I was wondering overall what the consensus was on the PA performance 1G to 3G 'upgrade'. Is the only negative the fact that the alternator can only be bought from PA performance (ie. not an off-the-shelf part at napa)? Otherwise, is it truly plug-and-play? I'm not sure I want to re-wire all connections to the existing voltage regulator (and remove it too), but I think this is the only way to do it with the ford 3G alternator. Anyone done this recently and can comment?
  5. Flanders
    Straight from JBA:
  6. Flanders
    1969_Mach1: it might be the difference between 1653S and 1655S.
  7. Flanders
    mustangstofear: do you have a link? On BBK offroad's website, I can only select years back to 1983 for exhaust parts. nymustang1969: thanks! Any change you have a product #? I'm looking on summit: 1655S: for cable clutch (applications say z-bar modification may be required) 1653S: application also says z-bar modification could be required. Which of the above parts am I looking for? 1655, or 1653?
  8. Flanders
    I've searched on here and there seems to be all sorts of answers :) so I'll be good and specific with my question. I've got a stock 351W (1969, of course!), power steering, stock clutch z-bar with my 4-spd. My exhaust manifold has a crack in it, so I was debating replacing with some shorty headers. What will fit with my configuration? Hedman says "some modification to clutch linkage may be required", and I read on here that JBA shorties don't work with stock power steering unit. Any other comments? I'd like to be able to go click-click-click-order and then bolt it right on :)
  9. Flanders
    Just read the Mustang Monthly article where they put a set of Aldan coilovers on a Mustang. Same coilovers fit on our '69's. https://aldanamerican.com/year-make-model-search/?swoof=1&pa_vehicle-make=ford&pa_vehicle-model=mustang&pa_vehicle-year=1969&pa_coilover-adjustment=single-adjustable Is anybody running these? The search turned up nothing. I'm curious about the difference between 450 and 550lb spring rate, quality, etc.
  10. Flanders
    I've replaced my pink wire with a straight 12V feed (pertronix II) and that fixed my warm-startup issues. That said, I had to replace my pertronix after ~3 years because it was very intermittent reliability on cold startup. Got a new one 1.5 years ago and it's been good ever since. I hope this one lasts longer...
  11. Flanders
    I'm a 4spd toploader, so should be good to go. And thanks for the tip on the noisy pump. I'll aim for Aeromotive. As the rest of my car is stock, I'm not sure if I'll get any advantage over moving to a single plane intake manifold.
  12. Flanders
    Ha, thanks. You're right, 58.5psi regulator built-in. I just need to get the 10micron in-line filter then. regarding the tank vent -- I need to see if my '69 tank has a vent in it, or if the cap is vented already
  13. Flanders
    Thanks Mach1 Driver -- I've seen some of your other EFI posts so you've been helpful! Regarding the pump: I can't find posts about the noise from the Walbro in-tank pumps. I've heard the hum from external in-line pumps but thought the in-tank ones were pretty quiet. That said, I do like the reviews from Aeromotive. Kind of making a shopping list here: https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/69-70-mustang-stealth-fuel-tank/ I was hoping to keep the engine compartment looking fairly stock. Stainless lines won't fit the bill, however I may be swayed to go stainless just for safety. Wiring kit for fuel pump: https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/premium-fuel-pump-wiring-kit/ Regulator: https://www.aeromotiveinc.com/product/efi-throttle-body-stealth-fuel-system/ Again, in the effort to keep things stealthy, where do folks mount the regulator? The above regulator has the return line so seems like it must be mounted close to the throttle body. Is that the case? Also, I wasn't familiar with the vent valve until now. Thanks for the TPV6 info, that will be pretty easy to tie into the tank vent.
  14. Flanders
    I'm considering moving to EFI this winter (351W engine). I like the Holley Sniper EFI setup (and Holley's support) so I'm leaning towards this. I was going to get a new fuel tank with in-tank pump (22Gal, from Holley, comes with fuel pump) to make life easier, and I like the in-tank pump quietness. For those who have gone this route, any advice or opinions on filter and lines? Is it worth getting a new intake manifold? (currently have stock heads and exhaust manifolds) I'd appreciate any tips or suggestions from those who have done the Sniper EFI conversion.
  15. Flanders
    ya, nothing squirted out when I put the pedal down :D I'll pull the MC on the weekend and see what's up!
  16. Flanders
    Just finished front disc brake swap. I bled the fronts first (gravity bled) and attempted to bleed the rears, but no fluid was coming out whatsoever. Ultimately I disconnected the fitting on the master cylinder that goes to the bowl for the rear lines, and no fluid dripped out at all! Could the master cylinder be clogged somehow? I bench bled it before I installed it and I got all the bubbles out, but would a bad bench bleeding job cause this? I'm perplexed as to why no fluid came out when I disconnected the fitting on the side of the full-of-fluid master cylinder.
  17. Flanders
    ok, I think I've got it sorted out (Dan@Chocostang has been very supportive). The ultimate problem was the fittings. I've got two sizes, below: The top one has all the right threads, but the seat for the inverted flare on the brake line looked too big. I thought it should match the fitting seat size on the bottom one (which is clearly smaller). The brake line will sit in the top fitting, it just doesn't have as much overlap. Chocostang says it's ok to use the top fitting, so it looks like I can make progress again. Hopefully nothing leaks :)
  18. Flanders
    Thanks Mike -- what front discs did you use for your conversion?
  19. Flanders
    I'm finally back at this job again...amazing how crap gets in the way of Mustang work :) I'm still having difficulties getting the proportioning valve into the system. Basically, I can't seem to find a proper adapter to go between the rear hard brake line (OEM) and the proportioning valve. As Cigarwilki pointed out, the OEM 1969/70 proportioning valve should do the trick nicely because it will fit my existing OEM hard line fittings (not that I'm keen on trying to remove my existing distribution block!). BUT, how does this proportioning valve work? Is it compatible with the 67 K/H Shelby-style front rotors (ie. chocostang, and even SSBC front disc conversion kits), or will it only work with the 1969/70 front disc brakes? Any help would be mucho appreciated. I've visited too many shops and turned away each time because I can't get proper brake line adapters! That rear hard line fitting size is apparently odd!
  20. Flanders
    Yes the chocostang kit came with some lines, however the fittings aren't the correct threads so I need to use adapters on the 3 connections in the distribution block and one of the connections at the MC. I'll make up some new lines with proper fittings, as I want my engine bay to look really clean -- at least not to draw attention to it. (it's really too bad the lines that came in the kit don't have proper fittings on it to begin with).
  21. Flanders
    the saga continues. that rear line is anchored under the car fairly well (strange new clips that I don't want to try and break) so can't drop it. I finally disconnected the rear hard line from the distribution block with vice grips and a hammer. I couldn't believe it when it finally cracked and spun. On to bending a whole bunch of brake lines since I can't use my new drum lines anymore. Any chance there are pre-fabbed lines that would work with the new MC?
  22. Flanders
    ugh. an hour at the parts store to discover no fittings that work with the OEM drum lines and new Master Cylinder (or I'd have a stack of 3 fittings to get it to work!). What a pain in the ass, this is turning into quite the headache. I can't even find a proper fitting to plumb the proportioning valve into the rear of the car (between the hard and soft lines). I didn't think it would be this difficult! My best bet now is to completely remove the existing distribution block and existing rear hard line (which is fused to it) and tackle it when it's out of the car. I'm also need to bend some new lines to connect the MC to the distribution block (can't use nice new stainless lines meant for front drums). Overall not terribly difficult, but I was not expecting this part of it to take so long. If I can manage to get the distribution block out of the car, at least I'll make a mount for the proportioning valve so I can put it under the hood.
  23. Flanders
    Thanks bob for confirming. For the life of me I can't seem to disconnect the rear brake line from the distribution block anyway (aside from putting a torch in there, which I'm not too keen on doing considering engine, hood and wiring is all present) so for now it looks like I'll be plumbing this in near the rear axle. I'll run like this for a while until I have nothing better to do and then may get a valve like cigarwilki pointed out.
  24. Flanders
    six_sigma: thanks for that pic. Mine's a bit more cramped since I have no power booster :D but I do have a question for your set up -- you have the proportioning valve between the MC and the distribution block (rear brake input port on the top). The instructions I see all over keep saying to put the valve after the 'output' port of the distribution block (which is the port on the bottom). Does it matter if I put the proportioning valve "before" or "after" the distribution block? Cigarwilki: thanks for the suggestion. I was really hoping to avoid buying another part :D
  25. Flanders
    Thanks -- just trying to find an 'easy' spot to mount it. I wasn't sure about putting it under the car (or near the rear where the soft hose connects to the hard line) as then it's exposed to the crud that gets kicked up when I drive (if that even matters).
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