Flanders

I'll burp the system again, good idea bout keeping it loose and letting coolant (and hopefully air) escape. I've gone through two temp senders and burped the system a few times, so maybe there's just a stubborn air pocket in there, due to the nature of the intake design (??). I can change the temp setting in the EFI to 140, but I'd prefer not too. This is me being stubborn I guess, but if my temp needle is right in the middle, I want the ECU matching. This isn't a recent rebuild, aside from intake manifold, so I was hoping to get to the bottom of this. I could swap the Holly sender with the factory one too, but then my dash needle would always read 'cool' which would drive me bonkers!

I'm a bit stumped. I've got an OEM-style temp sender at the front of my intake manifold, and a new Holley temp-sender at the back of my intake manifold (Jim Inglese 8-stack EFI system). 180F thermostat. After 20 minutes of driving around, using my infrared thermometer I can see the outlet of my water pump is 180F and my dashboard factory temp gauge is right in the middle. However, the infrared thermometer on the back of the engine reads around 140F, which matches the Holley ECU readings. I've replaced the Holley coolant sender, but this didn't change the results (I wasn't really expecting it to, as it matched the infrared thermometer reading). Coolant blooped out of the sender hole so I don't believe there is an air bubble in there either. 40F seems like a large temperature differential between the front and back of engine! Any thoughts? I could burp the system again but not sure what else could be going on. Since the ECU only thinks my engine is at 140F, it's always doing cold-start adjustments and never thinks the engine is warm.

Are you using stock engine mounts? I'm not sure how close your fittment is, but moving your engine over 1/4-1/2" might help. I got Ron Morris motor mounts to get clearance for my headers (not with Borgeson box though)

Thanks for the feedback. The belt size is definitely correct, I've been measuring and adjusting and have a nice collection of belts :) to make sure of this. The angle could be a touch better, but maybe a degree. I've also read about running a double v-belt pulley on the alternator (it's 95A), but I'm just not quite sure how to go about this. I'm definitely nowhere near the 95A load, and I have good wraparound on the alt pulley. As suggested, one big honkin' PS belt that covers both alt and PS might do it, but this may cause other issues. Easy enough to check, I suppose -- just gotta buy one more belt and a pulley. The bearing seems quiet -- good idea about disconnecting the wires to the alternator (just need to unclip the harness), that's an easy test for the bearings + load. Half my brain says to go serpentine, but I do like the look of the 'classic' v-belt and fan on the front of the engine. What have others on here done when upgrading alternators?

My PA Performance alternator has stopped working again. The pulley is getting super hot! I measure the temp with my pyrometer about 30 seconds after the car is running, when I stop the engine. The alternator case +engine is around 70F but the alternator pulley is 240F! I've tried both PA Performance billet and my OEM pulley, with a new v-belt on fairly tight (barely 1/2" play). I've also had the battery on a trickle charger overnight (a few days, actually) just in case it was dead, but didn't seem to make a difference. I have not tried a new battery yet. The belt doesn't feel very hot either. Prior to testing, battery voltage reads solid 12.8V. When the car is running, voltage drops to 12.3V. When the engine is off again, voltage goes back up to 12.8. The case of the alternator, along with the internal windiings, seem to stay nice and cool (according to pyrometer) so I don't think the alternator itself is overheating. It seems to only be the pulley (and the nut keeping pulley attached to alternator) When the engine starts up, there's belt squeal for a second or two before it's quiet (might even be power steering belt, as it's definitely a bit on the loose side). PA Performance is convinced the belt is slipping, causing the excessive heat. Any thoughts from the years of wisdom here? I'm at a loss. The alternator is aligned pretty good, perhaps maybe a degree? off center, but I wouldn't think this would cause the pulley to overheat so quickly. Not sure I can crank the v-belt much tighter. Help! video-1598925527.mp4

sweet. Thanks for the tips. I scored another JBA manifold gasket locally for free, so will try it first assuming perhaps it was an installation issue (?). If it fails, I really like that soft aluminum one! I've got a windsor, so your summit link is perfect. Locking stage 8 bolts too, just in case.

So I blew through my header gasket during the shake-down run. Doh! This gasket came with my JBA shorties. The cyl#1 blew out the bottom, which surely can't help with my EFI learning/tuning! Any recommendations on bolts and a new gasket? And what is the torque on header bolts? I had them all around 25 ft-lbs, so not sure what's going on. Stage8 makes some nice lookin' bolts. But is there a slightly thicker gasket that might work a bit better?

Figured I'd wrap this up -- the PA Performance guys have great support, doing through various voltage measurements at various spots to debug it down to a faulty internal voltage regulator in the alternator. This is an easily serviceable part (small part that screws into back of alternator) and the new one has solved all my issues. Thanks Mach1Driver for the feedback as well, you were spot-on in your analysis :) I saw it at 13.8V on the battery after I started up the engine and ~14.4V after a little test drive.

yeah, the plot thickens -- when I disconnect the plug on the back of the alternator and measure the voltage at the green/red prong, I get 11.9V (battery is 12.4). So this should be enough field voltage to get the alternator working. If I was to wager a guess, my alternator is pooched somehow.

I just unplugged the connector at the voltage regulator, and started up the car. When measuring the voltage at the connector (not at the regulator): Battery+ post: 12.31V F: 0.02V (not quite zero) S: 12.11V A: 12.25V When car is off, and the key is in the accessory position (note I had the charger on the battery for 20 minutes, so it brought the voltage up a touch): Battery+ post: 13.11V F: 0 S: 12.9V A: 13.11V I'm only seeing 8.6V on the Field output of regulator, but I should be seeing 0.5V-1V less than battery+ post (12V+). PA has given me a few more measurements/suggestions. The voltage on the S + A of the voltage regulator plug seem to be ok.

Thanks a lot for the info -- I appreciate the detail! I will go through my wiring again, but some voltage measurements: The F on the voltage regulator, connected to the alternator green/red wire is at 8.6V when the car is running. The S on the voltage regulator is a solid 12.5V (fyi, no pink wire, long ago removed) the output of the Alternator (if I measure the voltage at the battery posts) is around 12.4-12.8V. Seems to move around a bit, but it's not enough to charge my battery. I have no electric fans, or A/C, or stereo. Is the Field voltage from the voltage regulator high enough? It seems like 8.6V is a bit low. I'll check my wiring again, but PA performance has agreed that 8.6V isn't enough to turn on the alternator. I must say, I'm impressed with PA Performance's support line so far...very responsive! edit: quick update: I did not connect 38BK to b+ (your step 13, above), as per your note #1. I've got a fuseable link for note #2 coming, but I didn't think this would effect anything, would it? (electrically, is it needed with the big 4GA wire connecting starter solenoid post to B+ on alternator?)

I've got more digging to do. Got this from PA Performance (nice quick support!). My car never had the 3-pin connector to the alternator, so something else may be at play here. I need to see what voltage I've got out of the F pin of their voltage regulator, but I believe the instructions below match your pg1 diagram (step 12 is the orange wire). 462802C Kit - Express Instructions This instruction sheet is a supplement to the main installation instructions provided in the kit, and not meant to replace or contradict the more detailed steps. Some more experienced installers prefer a simple guide. Disconnect Negative battery cable on car battery and move to the side. Mark wires on existing alternator as ST, FLD, B+ and Ground (if there is a ground) Disconnect fender mounted external regulator plug Remove fender mounted external regulator box Install new PA Performance fender mounted external regulator box Reconnect plug Replace alternator per alternator instructions Connect the 3-Pin alternator plug provided in the kit to alternator Connect Yellow wire to B+ Post Connect White/Black wire to Stator tap on alternator. Tape the original ST wire as it is not used but may have power Connect FLD wire to new Green/Red wire in kit Connect B+ wire to alternator Connect Ground (if there is one) Connect Negative battery terminal to battery. You will have power at the green/red wire with the ignition key in the run position, no power on this wire with the ignition key off

Reviving this, now that I've been able to start my car! My PA Performance alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery. I've connected it as per your pg1 instructions, however I'm wondering about the F from the PA Performance regulator that goes to the orange wire, then goes to the red/green wire on the Alternator. If the PA Performance alternator is internally regulated (which I believe they are, according to their website), then what is the "F" output of the regulator doing in your diagram (pg1)? It's ultimately going to the green/red of the alternator but I'm not sure what the voltage is on it. The PA Performance instructions say to wire the green/red wire on their alternator to a 12V ignition voltage (ie. like the green/red wire that goes to the S pin of the original alternator) so I believe that's why my alternator currently isn't charging the battery. Thoughts? If their regulator is a dummy one, then the F output isn't doing much (I've pinged them to get more information, but figured you've already been talking to them)

ended up with the black stainless steel Lokar cable for the Borla 8-stack injection system. Basically identical throttle parts as Inglese. I'm not convinced yet that the S-bend in my cable is going to give me perfectly smooth operation once I'm driving, but for now it works. The clip for the gas pedal worked after about 20 seconds with the dremel -- didn't need to take much off to make it fit. A few pics for reference.

I'll post more details once I get a chance to sit down and sort though things, however it's ALIVE after the first turn of the key. Inglese intake, Holley Terminator X ECU. I had to re-do the IAC wiring (the idle is a bit high in my first start-up video here) so my idle rpm and idle a/f are bang on. It's coil- for spark, so dual-sync distributor is next... hopefully link works: https://photos.app.goo.gl/pjxve7SniZCodY1X9

Just to wrap up this thread -- I bent the flange at the top of my '70 filler neck, just a little bit, with the help of my vise and got things to line up quite nicely. Any funky-ness in the flange (it's admittedly not 100% flat now) didn't cause any other issues. It still bolted tightly against the gasket, and the gas cap covers it up anyway. So, for anyone putting this tank in your '69 mustang, make sure to get a '70 filler neck.

ooo I like that AN fitting. that's a good idea. I ordered a few brass fittings from amazon (exactly what 1969FstBack posted) but may not be pleased with how they look. Thanks!

I thought I'd wrap up this thread -- I put in the Ron Morris adjustable mounts, loosened off all the transmission crossmember bolts, and managed to pry my engine over about 3/16"-1/4". Previously, the header was touching the steering box. Now, I've a gap! Success! The attached picture of the mount is the drivers side before I "moved" the engine over towards passenger side. I've got the JBA mid-pipes, so I'll put those in soon. They look pretty good, just need to see how much clearance I've got over a rubber boot on my steering ram (it will clear it, but I don't want boot near the pipe!). Gotta check my z-bar too, might need to order the JBA one as well.

https://jiminglese.com/ 8-stack EFI for 351W

lol dagnabbit, this one isn't going to work (can't even thread it in, won't rotate around the throttle body!). I'm piecing together a few brass pieces now, hopefully doesn't look too bad. I might end up just plugging this thing and bypassing the heater. Just need something reliable to plug the water pump outlet -- I see on here that the rubber plugs aren't a reliable solution. Not sure if I want more make-busy-work of putting in the marine water pump that has no heater outlet yet...

thanks RPM-- this would be permanent. And I agree, I think at the transmission it would only be 1/8". Just gotta get out in my garage again and play around!

sm00n: I'd appreciate the pic for comparison! I'm not sure how easy it would be to bend the flange. Not sure I'd trust my bending skills to keep it flat, although at this point I have nothing to lose I suppose. And yes, I've called the manufacturer. Guess how much that helped :(

lol, can't seem to win here. A '70 tank neck arrived in the mail today. I've attached a pic of the '69 and '70 necks. While the '70 neck is "closer", I don't think it's going to work either. Suggestions on options?

I need to move things over by 1/4" so I'm not too concerned about the u-joint operating angle (plus, honestly the car doesn't get driven hard or much). thanks for the tips, I'll see if I can loosen everything up and see if it will move a bit.

So I've just put in a lovely set of Ron Morris adjustable engine mounts so that I can give myself a bit more clearance for my header install. However, physics tells me that the transmission also needs to move with the engine, so I need to move the transmission mounts over just a touch as well. I haven't gone out and checked, but is there much play in the stock transmission crossmember for this? Or am I going to have to bore out the holes a bit? 351W with 4-spd toploader if it makes a difference.