Flanders

I'm trying to figure out some hoses. I've got a TCP rack and pinion system with AN-6 fittings on it. I need to connect this to my CVF racing Saginaw pump: So for starters I'm trying to sort out how to make a stainless line connect to the low-pressure 5/16" barbed fitting. Do I just put another barbed fitting on the end of the stainless line, and a small section of rubber hose in between with hose clams? (this doesn't seem right). Similarly, the outlet (with white plastic cap, in pic) is: "3/8" SAE Inverted Flare Inlet(5/8-18 thread)" but i think the below adapters will work for the conversion. Was hoping someone has done this before: https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/adapters/power_steering_adapters/parts/961947LERL https://www.holley.com/products/plumbing_an_fittings_and_hose/adapters/power_steering_adapters/parts/090203SDS Thanks for feedback!

I just took mine apart, and from what I remember, there was a plastic sleeve in there. http://fixingthetruckagain.blogspot.com/2016/12/rebuilding-1969-mustang-non-tilt.html Your column looks a bit different than mine though!

Any engine bay pics without the regulator? Since it's all neat and tidy now, must be able to show it off :) I can't imagine why I'd ever want to go back to a stock external voltage regulator, but I'm going to attempt minimal cutting and then tuck/zipstrap the old harness underneath the battery tray or rad core support. Also, I don't quite understand the point of wire #915 in CVF Racing's 1-wire alternator instructions. I would have thought it was either 915, or 916 going to the fuse block (ie. don't need a source from both the alternator terminal AND the fuse post). Not sure if anyone has done it this way, seems redundant.

thanks for the thoughts -- that would clean things up over there.

Just curious what you guys have done with the old voltage regulator and wiring harness, after converting to a 1-wire alternator. Seems like butchery to hack up the harness to remove it all :) so trying to gather some opinions. Do you just leave the regulator in there, with now-unused wires to the regulator just not connected to anything? Or hack hack hack to eliminate it entirely?

Yeah, you summed it up -- the adapter (for the Grant wheel) is basically not quite the right size for the pin to work. There are two holes on the adapter for spring pins (which would eliminate the need for the notch) so perhaps that is what Grant intended folks to do, although from my testing they aren't quite in the right spot either. My switch is original, actually this is a replacement (swapped during my troubleshooting efforts). So this is purely a funky aftermarket adapter issue for the Grant wheel. The plastic may wear down for sure, but there isn't a lot of pressure on it aside from the turn signal cancellation cantilever mechanism. We shall see!

When I got my car (8+ years ago) it came with a grant steering wheel, which looks great, but I found that the turn signal canceller worked only intermittently. I lived with it for a while, "fixed" it a few times, but only recently sorted out what's going on. There is a pin in the turn signal switch that needs to engage in a little slot on the steering wheel adapter. In my case, the pin wasn't engaging fully in the slot (see pic) and kept popping out. You can see it's worn down the adapter so it's nice and shiny, when it pops out of the slot. Anyhow, 3D printer for the win. I made up a ring that fits around the adapter so that the pin on the steering wheel switch had more of a notch to engage in. My prototype: works like a champ! I've cleaned it up a bit so it sits flush with the metal ring, plus a little screw keeps it all in place (although it's pretty snug on the metal ring). My turn signal cancellation thingy has never worked better. In the above pic, there are two holes for some 'pins' to go in the original one (for turn cancellation) but it was a bit sketchy as the a) I don't have the pins, and b) the instructions to put in the pins say "bend them inwards" which I wasn't a fan of, and c) the holes are all oval anyway. Anyhow, thought I'd pass this along in case others are sick of their aftermarket steering wheels not cancelling their turn signals properly.

I do like the KRC pump, however if seems if I go with a CVF serpentine, I need to go with their Wraptor system (it's the only one for SBF engine with GM type-2 pump mount). Unfortunately, it moves the alt to the drivers side, and costs $1000 more, which I'm not keen on. Spec-wise, a saginaw pump with pressure reducer value should do the trick. Maybe I can convert/modify their "Beast" bracket to support the KRC pump? https://www.cvfracing.com/ford-289-302-351w-serpentine-conversion-kit-alternator-power-steering/ We'll see. Otherwise, lanky expect a PM.

this probably won't help, but I managed to get 90% of this kit for dirt cheap at a swap meet (actually, the kit I have has interior parts too): https://www.cjponyparts.com/amk-products-master-body-kit-1969/p/MBK5/ Someone only wanted a few of the baggies out of it, so I picked it up for beans. I've barely used it, but when I have, it's been priceless. Sorry not helpful but just keep an eye out on ebay or craigslist!

I've got the TCP rack and pinion system for my car, and ordered the pump+bracket: https://www.cjponyparts.com/total-control-products-power-steering-sportsman-integral-reservoir-v-belt-kit-351w-351c-1965-1973/p/TCPPSP5212/ However, it won't work with my serpentine kit, so I have no use for it. I'm beyond the 60 day return period (got it before x-mas). Paid over $800US for it, I'll ship it to you for $500US o.b.o. Unopened bags, however I did open up the box to look at the blingy pump (KRC elite series pump). Absolutely nothing wrong with it, will bolt right up to your 351W/C and work flawlessly with your TCP rack and pinion if you're thinking of going this route.

The TCP kit came with this one from KRC: I'll have to get a picture of the rear of it later once I'm home, but it's 2 bolt holes at the 12 and 6 oclock position. (GM type-2 style pump, apparently). It seems I can use the CVF saginaw p-series pump with their reducer value (brings it down to 800psi), and I'm within spec of the TCP r&p (under 950psi). With the saginaw pump, at least I can go with the CVF Beast serpentine system. Looks like I'll have a KRC pump for sale soon!

Not sure if this helps, but here's my setup.

other way around -- I have a stock v-belt now, and want to go serpentine. But It seems there are not a lot of options for serpentine kits that work with the KRC (gm type-2 compatible) pump. So, I'm hoping for suggestions on a saginaw style pump that will work with my TCP rack&pinion.

Just piecing components together here -- I've got a TCP power rack and pinion kit for my '69 with 351W. It came with a KRC pump, which is apparently a GM type-2 style pump, and I've also got all the brackets for installation. HOWEVER, I'm now leaning towards getting a serpentine set-up "while I'm in there" and it would appear there are a lot more serpentine kits that use a saginaw-style pump rather than the GM type-2 pump. Seems like TCP tech support is a touch slow to reply...but is there a saginaw-style pump that would work with the TCP rack? (most likely not a KRC one?)

Thanks guys for the replies! I'll get my PCV hooked up properly. As it turns out, the PCV I've been using for the past 8 years had a blob of RTV in it, effectively rendering it useless (thanks, previous owner!). This might explain a lot of the smelly issues, and constantly leaking rear main seal. I didn't notice until just a few weeks ago, while I was swapping hoses around and cleaning things out.

Well, at least my car has started smoking. -when cruising on hwy, if I take foot off the gas, I see some light colored smoke in my rearview mirror. -when I rev the engine under an overpass/bridge, I see some light colored smoke in my rearview mirror (can't tell if smoke is when rev's are going up, or down). I don't have the PCV connected to my intake, so this might be part of the problem. I have engine bay smoke when I rev the engine as well. It doesn't have the black overly-rich smell/look to it, which I used to have when I was carbureted (now I'm EFI'd). Can I get some advice on narrowing down what the issue is? I have not run a compression test, so not sure if it's my piston rings. I thought valve seals were typically shot when I'd see smoke upon startup (but I don't see any excessive smoke on startup). Help would be appreciated!

This post is quite timely -- my steering system needs a lot of TLC (ie. replacement parts) in order to get it steering as good as it was in '69, but the more I think about it, I feel the time is right to upgrade to a rack and pinion. For the TCP or Street-or-Track systems, can you stick with the factory power steering pump? Or is it recommended to upgrade?

I can't say I'm hard on my tires at all, and don't really put a lot of km's on them. I'd say they are great for my needs, but I'm probably not the best for an opinion on how good of a tire they are.

I've got 17x8's in the front, 17x9.5's in the rear, haven't had any rubbing (1" Scott Drake lowering springs in front) http://vintagewheelsus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=48_51&products_id=526 Tires are NT555 Gen 2 245/45/17 front 275/40/17 rears

i also have the aeromotive tank -- I ran both lines (went with stainless braided to be fancy) along the passenger side of the car. Not quite stock looking :) but protected and very functional. I routed it 'through' a hole in the front subframe (wrapped it with some extra hose) before it goes up the side of my transmission tunnel to the back of the engine where it's connected to my fuel rail. I can take more pics if you need, the back of the car is all covered up and pushed up against the wall so harder to get at.

couldn't have gone too far, the collar on the end of the cable would have prevented it from going through the firewall (in theory, anyway)

I've got this one from Aeromotive. Although, if I remember right, the box said Tanks Inc on it! https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/69-70-mustang-stealth-fuel-tank/ 22 Gallon, fit nicely in my '69. The only catch is that you'll need a filler neck from a '70 as this tank is 'taller' than the original '69 one, so don't forget to order that too! Re-ran braided lines up to the engine compartment, which are on top of the tank. I had to put a little hole into the side of my trunk (where gas tank sits in) for this. I then made a flat floor for the trunk with 1/4" wood. So far, so good!

Would a chocostang re-build be worthwhile to make sure my steering box has minimal slop? The thought of rack and pinion is also bouncing around in my head :D since I'm removing stuff anyway...

Thanks folks for great advice. I'll attempt this re-alignment (and then re-alignment of my steering wheel) soon. Need to save a project for when the snow hits :) Hopefully things will line up with the splines and pitman arm when I get it all centered!

A few years ago, the shop that did my alignment didn't bother to 'center' the pitman arm on the steering box. I'm pretty positive this is why the car has a much wider turning radius when I turn left, and could explain some of the looseness I feel in the steering when I'm going 'straight'. My alignment specs were bang-on what I asked for, however my 2-year old tires with very low km's are going bald on the outside shoulder. I believe this is both an alignment *and* a centering problem with the pitman arm -- I found that even when I was turning at slow speeds I could hear the tires squealing a bit! Would my analysis above make sense? Before I dive into correcting this myself, is centering the pitman arm just a matter of counting the revolutions of the steering wheel to find the 'center' point, making sure wheels are pointing straight, and then connecting the pitman arm back to the steering box? Also, I've personally never disconnected the pitman arm from the steering box. Is this a simple job, or is it a splined and tapered shaft that on the steering box that is going to require some strong words to help disconnect? (Power steering '69, if it makes a difference)