Flanders
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Posts posted by Flanders
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hahaha :D thanks for the feedback.
I *just* pulled the trigger on a Dannmar MaxJax. Considering it's $2k shipped (Cdn$) at Costco, and it'll give me ample room and flexibility, I figured I'd give it a shot.
Option number 2 was a Bendpak 4-post lift. However, it's more than double the cost of the MaxJax (shipped to me) and the thought of having to still jack the car up if I want to take the wheels off were the reasons I went with the smaller 2-post lift.
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congrats! Pretty sweet to see your car in a mag!
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Anybody with a garage lift? I'm looking to get a 4-post lift. My 9' ceilings don't give me a lot of lift, but just getting the car a few feet off the ground would be spectacular.
I'd like to gather some opinions on brand (Dannmar, or Bendpak?) and sizes that work for a '69 Mustang. I'm scouring the garagejournal.com forums, but thought folks here would have better opinions on sizing for 'stangs.
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I have the Mustang Project Sequential LEDs and just did the upgraded flasher unit that "clicks" and speeds up the LEDs flashing.No complaints from me and us classics get a lot of attention when folks behind see the sequential tailights going :)
This is what I've got too. Works great, super easy to install, and loads more light output than the old bulb that was in there! Highly recommended!
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I only did my rear parcel shelf -- the black cardboard was a bit water stained, so I got some 3M interior upholstery spray glue and glued on some black vinyl that I picked up from a fabric store. It worked fantastic.
I'm not sure I'd try it on all the curvy plastic bits of the interior though.
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All I know is that the stuff that was guaranteed not to get hard ended up leaking after a year. One good Canadian winter and then a hot summer was enough to create a little leak again. (arg!)
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Vintage Wheel Works!!that's what I'm saving for :)
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Just a thought but did it make the noise before the gasket was repaced?Not that I recall. It's a little paper gasket though (can't imagine the spacing being that different!).
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yeah, my stethoscope has it's finger pointing right at the fuel pump :)
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I've got a 351W, fairly original, with what I believe is the original fuel pump.
It seems to make a quite audible ticking noise, which you can hear inside the cabin when the engine is running (heck, you can hear it standing next to the car too!).
When the pumps get old, would they start ticking? I know there's a little arm that gets driven by the cam (part of my work last year involved replacing the pump-to-block gasket, and I recall having to jig it a bit to re-install it properly) so by nature there are metal parts coming into contact with each other, but is it supposed to tick tick tick with the rpm's?
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Almost a fusion/current-mustang blend, as far as the front-end goes.
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the "would start after sitting for a few days" problem sounds just like when I had a pertronix ignition module (inside distributor) fed by the pink resistor wire. When 'cold', the pertronix would get around 12V and run just fine. But after things warmed up and the pertronix was getting less than 12V, I had all sorts of intermittent behavior (including not wanting to start again, until it was cold). I now feed my pertronix ignitor with a 12V source and it behaves just fine!
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originally, it was routed along the side of the shock tower. In your pick, you can even see the plastic clamp/strap that should hold it there.
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side note: I'm pretty sure it's the starter. When I have it on the ground, and a booster cable on one of the mounting holes (connected to gnd of a battery), tapping the copper post on the starter does absolutely nothing but cause sparks. (When the starter is in the car, my solenoid just clicks like crazy but the starter doesn't crank)
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'69 351W (GT fastback, if it matters), 4-spd toploader.
My starter just bit the bullet. I was looking into the small starters in the later model 5.0's, but will this work with my flywheel? I can't recall if I'm a 157 or 164 tooth flywheel.
Can I pick up the small one? And even if I order a replacement, how can I tell the number of teeth on my flywheel? (I'm sure I have a pic of it at home, but that doesn't help me here at the moment :D )
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I always figure it's easier to do a 15 minute roadside tire-change rather than wait for a flatbed. My trunk is minty fresh, and still has enough room for whatever I need for my trip (usually cleaning supplies, cooler and a chair for car shows :) )
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My speedo drive gear was worn down to nothing, so I replaced it when I rebuilt my toploader. If 4spd toploader is in the car, might be easiest to disconnect your shifter linkage (bolts onto the tail section of tranny) before removing the tail section. Oh, and don't forget about that driveshaft (good time to replace the tail section rear seal while you're in there!). The snap rings around the speedo gear can sometimes be a PITA so make sure you have the proper snap ring pliers
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Tgriffin91 -- the chrome piece is definitely a stop for the vent-style window, but the original post was asking about the metal tab thing that's on the bottom right of my picture (only half of the metal piece is in the picture). The window definitely doesn't touch it.
maybe it was used during vehicle assembly, and not worth the effort to remove?
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You can just see my 'clip' thingy in this pic. No idea what it is. The interior trip doesn't clip 'into' it, but maybe it rests on top of it? Need to check once I get home.
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I've got a skinny one on my '69 GT fastback. Never seen a fat one like that on a '69.
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I know 69GT's commonly had a stripe along the base of the door, like this:
conveniently enough, this is the same color as my car :D. I currently don't have stripes...my car has a chrome rocker strip which looks like it usually comes on mach 1's:
So what's more common? Is it technically a faux-pas to have the chrome strip on a GT? I'm not too fussy either way, but I was going to put a GT stripe on the car but think it might not look too good unless I take the chrome off.
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Tgriffin91: sorry, can't recall bolt size (stock hole). I just remember that none of the bolts in the 'hardware kit' actually fit. I went to my nuts 'n bolts store and grabbed a handful of everything (very handy to do this!) and one of them fit perfectly.
prayers1: model# is WELR-L (see link way up at the top). I have the 8" sleeve for low bucket seats. No need to specify length of belt itself.
I've had this in the car for a while now, and still think it's great. No problems with my seat hitting the retracter (I'm 6' tall, seat is back fairly far and it never moves). It does 'catch' quicker than the seat belts in my daily drivers, but nothing irritating. I'm still quite happy I did it.
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ah, now that's a good point. I'm after a mild grind, but really (perhaps stupidly? :) :) ) want the classic thumpity-thump-thumpity lopey idle.
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I was thinking 'roller' partially just go get some modern tech in there :D and then perhaps I don't need to hunt around for zinc additive all the time.
If I ever go EFI, would such a "mild" cam be a problem?
Smoke come out of steering column!!!!
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
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hm. My Grant wheel went on fairly straightforward, and my horn works just fine. No Grant hating from me :) I must have lucked out.
Seems like a horn-wiring and/or arcing problem. Not a lot of things in there to cause smoke!