six_sigma
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Posts posted by six_sigma
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Thinking about making the drive this year. Anyone got any advise about making the most of the show or hotel recommendations. I'm planning on going on a bit of a parts spree :thumbup:. Is it worth it or just a huge tourist trap type situation on the parts side?
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I grabbed a small bulldog clip removed the handles and then flattened it. After that I took it to the bench grinder and ground a V into the top folded edge. The size of the clip fit right in to the original groove and the spring fit right into the v notch.
A little MacGyver but it worked.
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Thanks for the input guys, looks like I'm going to add installing my own lines to the list for projects.
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Hey guys, I'm getting ready to install my power disk brake and 5 lug rear axle conversion (on the way to a V8/MT swap from I6/C4 baby steps).
Here's my question, I want to run new brake lines front and back and I'm wondering is buying preformed lines and installing them a pretty straight forward process or should I have the lines custom fabbed and installed at a shop?
I've gotten a quote of around $400 to bend and install the lines from a local speed shop. Has anyone run their own lines and thought it was piece of cake or was it unrelenting pain.
Thanks for any input in advance.
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Gotta love the ground pounding camera shake every time you rev the engine. Talk about a car you feel.
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Wow, thank you for sharing Jim. This is the kind of stuff that makes this site great!
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Hey Mike I have the same engine going into my 69 convertible and the alternator that was on that was a 3 wire.
I think the rule is that if its only got one wire coming off it it should have the internal regulator. If is got 3 then you need an external one.
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I'm fairly sure the 1 wire alternator should have an internal voltage regulator. If you refer to this thread http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=10967 you will see a wiring diagram that buening kindly supplied showing that the one wire alternator requires an external fuse in place of the regulator.
As for the gauge cluster question if you're replacing the old ammeter with a new voltmeter I would imagine that you should just remove the wiring as well to make room for the new stuff. But I could absolutely be wrong on that.
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Hey Pyetime,
If you look to the far right of the enlarged pic you can see the voltage regulator plug and the solenoid plugs. So I think you're good.
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Actually I have no idea, I've only had the car 10 months. The alternator harness and the voltage regulator plug were the next things on my list to replace.
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Yup, all off engine at idle, 11.2V at the battery. I watched the alternator test and the voltage that the alternator was kicking out was inconsistent. One sec 14, another 12.
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Regulator was actually the first thing I replaced after I inspected the battery and cables.
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Well, pulled and tested the alternator, turns out it was bad. Replaced it with a new one and still only 11V at the battery. I pulled out the alternator wiring harness and inspected it and it seems all right, now I'm wondering if it might be the connection into the voltage regulator.
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Thanks guys, I'll do that this weekend. I've actually been looking forward to getting my hands dirty.
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Thanks Lemon Owner, I didn't think that the alternator was supposed to be pushing out that many volts, if thats the case I think I'd much prefer replacing a bad alternator than tracking down a short or corrosion in my wiring harness.
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Hey guys I have an issue that has come up.
I pulled my car out of winter storage reconnected my battery and the car fired right up, great! A few days later I went to go for a drive and the car was completely dead not even a click click click. So I jumped the car and at started right up. Took it for a long drive got it home turned off and then tried to start it again and dead.
So here is what I've done:
Took the battery to verify that it was still good, it was.
Checked the voltage at the battery while the car was idling no accessories on. 12.2V
Checked the voltage at the alternator 13.5V.
Cleaned up the positive and negative battery terminals remeasured the voltage at the battery and it went down. 11.8V
Changed the voltage regulator and the voltages went down again. 12V at the alternator and 11V at the battery.
I'm confused... :confused1:
200CI, C4, no power anything.
Thanks for any insight.
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Look up the local Classic Mustang club chapter where you're visiting. Chances are at the very least you'll be put in touch with someone who can pre inspect the car, or that will have info on good quality cars that are up for sale in the area.
Might help avoid the worst of the problems you might face since you've left the country with your new purchase. There is nothing worse than buying your dream car and finding out it's held together with undercoating and hope.
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I took a small black bull dog clip from Office Depot and removed the handles hammered flat it and notched a V in front and back. It was just the right width to fit in the channel that the original tab was in and it was good as new.
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Thanks for the info Buckeye.
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The pads are only $84.95 at Mustangs Unlimited.
BTW mine looks like that too and I'm thinking I'll try the DIY route. Please post pics of your results.
BTW When you're getting ready to fix the wheel its self here is an article from Mustang Monthly http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techarticles/mump_9908_classic_ford_mustang_steering_wheel_restoration/viewall.html
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Nice! Thats a good price.
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That is one fine engine bay!
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From what I've read 450 is definitely the upper limit. Most say you should stay between 350 and 400.
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2006/06/01/hmn_feature19.html
In in the same boat you're in right now but the 302 I'm putting into my car should only be around 270 to 300hp.
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Yeah I was all over that page trying to figure out what I had.
This one looks pretty good too and seems to have all the images that are missing in the kevinstang page. I just found it this morning.
http://www.maliburacing.com/ford_9_inch/ford_nine_inch.htm
And thanks for the info.
Carlisle Ford Nationals
in The Garage
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My Wife and I are booked! Ford fun here we come.