six_sigma

Hey Bob, This car is a total cruiser. I already have the 500 and I think that I'll work with that one both are going to require me buying a calibration kit and rebuild kit so I'd rather use the one that is right than the one I should be able to make work.

That is a VERY generous offer thanks, but I'm a little out of the way. Toronto Canada.

No that is a cool looking set up! I'd like to see the install details on that one.

Yeah, that does suck. if you want clean, I think I remember seeing a pic of an installation where the prop valve was mounted on its side under the MC so the adjusting know was just visible at the side. You had to know to look for it.

Hey Bob & Sue, I know it's all about air/fuel mixture and I suspect that the difference in carb bodies between the 1403 and 1406 is probably minor. It's more about the metering rods, jets and springs that it comes with out of the box. I'm all for discussion that's why I posted but the question wasn't "help me tune my carb" is was "500 or 600 CFM which is better" to which I've gotten 500 is better, 600 is fine or it doesn't matter. The calibration kits that Edelbrock sells are specific to each carb and then you can use their chart for rod and jet combos to get the desired mixture. The two carbs do not have the same symptoms. The original 600 CFM carb idled nicely and ran fine around town but smelled and smoked a bit. The 500 that I bought USED and had been on a V6 previously would run but I'd have to to keep the idle up higher than I wanted. I am really glad you guys are here to help, even Barnett who is almost aggressively helpful. I picture him on his porch yelling at children to get off his lawn and every community needs one of those guys! I'm not answering questions because I don't want too, it because I don't have the answers yet, when I do I will post them and I am thankful to Barnett for giving me the list of questions. Not having a home garage full of tools also means it takes some time to get the tools I need to get those answers. I will absolutely post the results when I get it sorted. I'm not taking this personally, this is a new hobby for me and everything has been a learning curve so yes frustrating but also satisfying when things finally work. Now I'm off to replace my underdash harness with a refreshed one I just got from Randy at Midlife.

Thanks for all the info it's good to have. That was my plan all along. It was my trip to buy the calibration kit that sparked this whole thing! After I get it all sorted out I'll get back to you guys.

I had had the 600 rebuilt and tuned on a flow bench but was always told the 500 was a better fit that's why I got that one. When I did install it it and got the car running even 1000 RPM it smelled MUCH less like unburnt gas. Which I thought was a step in the right direction. Now I just have to get it dialed in.

I seem to remember the Chockostang kit I had coming with new small lines for the MC and proportioning valve. I can tell you right now after buying a new ring kit for my distribution block that shuttle that sits under the brake warning light switch would not come out for love or money. In the end, I had to buy the factory distribution and proportioning valve that Cigarwilki showed you. I hope you had better luck than I did.

Thanks, I'll be looking at it more over the weekend after I pick up a calibration kit.

Hey Barnett, First off, thank you for taking the time to try and help me. I appreciate it. That said. You asked me 4 questions. To the first, I responded by asking for clarification, to the second, I answered (auto), the third I probably responded with a little too much humor I'm just going to be cruising around town and some highway driving. As to throwing the carb away it's more than just the carb that would have to be replaced and I'd rather not incur that expense as well. As to your preference for Holly over Eddy I've heard just as much bad as I've heard good for both. I readily admit I'm a novice and while it may, in fact, be beyond my ability to tune the eddy I was not asking for advice on how to tune it. I was asking about the appropriate CFM carb for my engine. Was it 500 which I had been told was the right size by a number of people and the online CFM calculators that I had used and 600 which the rebuilder at the shop I went to buy a calibration kit from insisted was more appropriate.

My brake warning light didn't work, the P.O. thoughtfully disconnected the switch for me before I bought it. I guess he didn't want to worry me with pesky idiot lights that wouldn't go off. ;-P

http://www.cvfracing.com have some very nice set ups at a very competative price. I got my v-belt pulley kit from them and it was very well made.

Hey Flanders, this is how mine was set up and I used Chock's front disc package too.

I'm not sure that the 500 doesn't have a tuning problem that's why I had gone to that guys place to buy a metering rod and jet kit. The 1406 had been rebuilt and jetted down for use on my engine but it still runs too rich which is why I had been looking for the 500cfm unit. Compression or vacuum? Auto, AOD Right now almost none, it's quite irritating. I'd rather not do that. Bought the carb used, and was, of course, assured that it ran great when pulled, the guy I bought it off was installing a FiTech system What do you mean by strip kit, you mean this? https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/edl-1486 If so, that is what I was trying to buy. Thanks for your time guys.

Hey folks, So I have rebuilt roller 302 with an RPM intake, B cam and Tri-y's. I have an Edelbrock 1406 600cfm performer carb and it's running quite rich. I was told, and had read in a few places that a 500 CFM carb is really the way to go, so I found a used on for a good price that was on a V6 chevy motor. I installed the carb and I can't get the car to idle below 1K RPM, previously is was idling around 750-800 with a nice burble. So I go to a specialist carb rebuilder to ask if they have a jet and rod kit for the carb and the old guy says that the 500 is too small and the engine is going to run lean. so now I have 2 carbs and more confusion. Any of you guys care to add to my store of conflicting knowledge? Thanks in advance.

Installed a 1 wire alternator and a new carb.

So the age old question, futz or spend the money... I have my shift rod in and it works ok but not great and I don't want to burn up my trans for something stupid like this. I've seen guys on here that made new shift rods with rod ends which would cost about $40 in materials and I see the store bought ones for about $140. The thing about the store bought ones is that they alter the shift lever pivot point/geometry at the transmission, anything that I make will not do that. I like the idea of making stuff but some things are just silly to spend the time on when the solution is readily available.

Pulled the dash off to fix my heater core, found a huge crack in the box. Installing RCCI voltmeter and cleaning up some wiring under my dash.

fvike I haven't but the tach is referenced as a good source for 12V power to the voltmeter so I'd assume that there is no issue with installation. Contact Bob to make sure. Here is the link to the install instructions. Read more carefully than I did ;-P http://rccinnovations.com/Instructions/XR7Voltmeter.pdf

Hey Guillaume, I've really got to look more closely at the 1 sheet of instructions. Yeesh.

The front of the gauge looks absolutely stock and so does the back of the gauge itself. The conversion is available here http://rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-mustang-all#volts Bob is a really great guy to deal with.

So what I'm seeing is that you've cut away the printed circuit folded it back and taped it off. Where did you pull the hot wire from? And you sir a prince among men!

Thanks for the replies guys thats exactly what I needed.

Has anyone done this? I don't want to hack up my circuit board for the install so I was wondering, would it be a simple as replacing the metal washers that are pushed into the board by the nuts with rubber ones to isolate the board and then I can just run new wires off the studs? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Replaced the stock radiator with an ECP unit and installed a new water pump. Heater core promptly began to leak.