Chelby-Ann

Gas gauge fixed. Went and filled her up. Reads FULL now. Now its off the next problem. Getting the Tach to work. Thanks for the support TEAM. Bill.

I had the same problem. Do what Jay suggested. Worked for me.

I replaced my floors so I placed it in the best location possible. Lucky I have everything still apart so I hope this picture serves its purpose. If not it will get you in the general area so you can poke around with an awl so you can find the original holes. Good Luck.

The sending unit is new and is described for a 1969/1970 Mustang from Mustangs Unlimited. I disconnected the gauge and used a different keyed 12V power source, hooked up a separate ground and tested the gauge again and got the same EMPTY/FULL results. Here are a few pictures of the Autometer Pro Comp Fuel Gauge #4314 ( we now know its the wrong ohm range) I have now. It appears that from these tests everything is working correctly except for the fuel reading. I ordered a new Fuel Gauge #4315 and its expected to be delivered by April 3.

I removed the sending unit wire and with the ignition key on, I grounded the sending unit wire to a good chassis ground and the gauge immediately went to EMPTY. When I removed the sending unit wire from the chassis the gage went directly to FULL. The gauge is not a stock gauge and the wiring harness is AAW.

Hey Guys I am having some trouble with my new fuel gage reading correctly. I have done the following: 1. I have 12V power to the feed terminal at the fuel gage. 2. Checking the gage, I removed the fuel sending wire and with the ignition key on and grounding the sender the gage to EMPTY. Removing the sending unit wire from the chassis ground the gage goes to FULL. 3. The gage and sending unit are acting right. 4. I emptied the fuel tank, Grrrrr,, removed the sending unit and tested it and tests good. So, I made sure I had good metal to metal contact with the sending unit and the tank and reinstalled the sender and the gage reads about 3/4 full. I was at my wits end when I decided to search the forum for help and came across this thread. I looked at my Auto Meter Fuel Gage #4314 packaging and see that I am using a 0 ohms empty to 90 ohms full. I believe I bought the wrong gage and is giving me these issues. AGAIN OPERATOR ERROR. I purchased a 20 Gallon tank with a fuel sending unit brand new from Mustangs Unlimited for a 69 Mustang, so I feel I have that right. Before I spend $50+ on a new fuel gage, to solve my fuel gage problem, would the be the right gage to go with? Auto Meter Fuel gage #4315 Empty/Full, 73 Ohms/8-12 Ohms. Thanks Bill

Its the drivers side low beam that has a 3 prong socket. American Auto Wire has a light green, tan and ground wire going to the first socket. The ground looped from the low beam to the hi beam as well as the light green. The tan goes from one prong on the low beam to the passenger low beam.

PROBLEM SOLVED. THANKS. After reading all of the replies and reviewing the AAW Schematic I had the lt green and the tan wire reveresed in the socket. So in the end it was operator error. My Low/High beams all work correctly now. All of my directionals and driving lights are working correctly also.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll be attacking this over the weekend. I'll report back.

I can't believe I have this issue with the headlights. When the low beams are on, the high beams have a glow! I am confidant in my wire hook ups (AAW KIT) and proud of my grounds. New headlight switch (AAW KIT) and new high beam switch (AAW kit). One thing I made sure I did was make good ground contact EVERYWHERE. This is the only wiring issue I have right now. Any suggestions or ideas on where I can start trouble shooting? Thanks

After letting the adhesive cure for 36 hours (24 min), I installed the passenger door glass. I tell ya, after all the prep and prep and prep, it was IMO an easy install. I have some small adjustments after fiddling around with it. I was so excited to have the door glass go in so easy and without any problems. Tip - just make sure that the felt line is not on the door this will give you enough room to get the brackets down into the door. The wood prevented the window from acting like a guillotine. My girls helped hold up the window while I attached the window regulator. I did have to remove my felt line. I used brake lubricant (SYL-GLYDE from AUTO ZONE $8) to lube the tracks and the guide bars. Just prepped the drivers side door for an install for tomorrow. I think I will go ahead and glue in the side lights while the track is still in the car. The tracks are clean and ready to receive the adhesive and glass.

Hey Fantastic. That color must look great in the great outdoors. Is there metallic in that paint?

FOOTCUTTA...THAT LOOKS GREAT

UPDATE The 3M Channel Bonding Adhesive (08641) finally arrived after being delayed due to bad weather up north. I took my time, watched the WCCC Video 1969 Glue In Glass: The Comprehensive Repair Guide (West Coast Classic Cougar) a few times and glued in the passenger side door glass to the channels. Pretty straight forward and relatively easy IMO. 1. Marked with magic marker the location of both channels. 2. Took 80 grit paper and roughed up the glass on both sides. 3. Cleaned the window with glass cleaner. 4. Applied the adhesive to both channel layouts on both sides. 5. Put some adhesive in the channel itself. 6. With the rubber shims still in place re-installed both channels maintain locations. 7. Applied adhesive to the stop thingy and added it to the window. Now I need to wait 2 hours before I install the window. Will do that on Saturday. Since I cleaned the entire channels out, I used an entire tube of adhesive for the door glass. I bought two so I am OK for the drivers side however I will need to by a third for the quarter windows. I will trim the shims tomorrow. I could not have done this without the help and guidance from the members of this forum. Thank You Bill

I took my project to the extreme I guess. After I had the car media blasted, neutralized and primed, I put her on the rotisserie and seal sealed all of the over lapped metal since water could get in between the joints and rust. I gotz me sum disposable plastic syringes and put Eastwoods Seam Sealer in it and forced the seam sealer in the joint and took and acid brush and smoothed it out so it looked professional. Took some time but worth it for me. Had to work in sections as the seal sealer skinned over pretty quickly and was difficult to smooth. I picked up some Dupli Color Bed Armor at Advance Auto and applied that with disposable brushes from Harbor Freight. Wear GLOVES. The final results were amazing and I was really happy in the end. Look, when I go to car shows I always look at how the owner restored the car and I always look underneath. I spent so much time on this project so why not take the extra mile to make it look good as well as functional. At the end of he day I was happy with the results, actually kindah proud. Look forward to catchin up witchuguyz soon at car shows as I am registering y car on Friday and having the front end aligned on Monday

I have to agree. Its a good thing that I had made a friend with one of our members MAD IN NC that I had met in person and had his cell number so I could stay in touch. I was having problems logging in fornmore than 2 weeks and finally reachedout to MAD and asked him to meaasage the admin or PAK.

So I have read as much as I can on the subject and I am ready to glue in the door glass and the back windows on my '69 Coupe. I have ordered 2 tubes of 3M 08641 Channel Bonding and Sidelight Adhesive today and should have it on Wednesday. I have mocked it all up and ready to go. I did use rubber strips however they are not solid. They are cellous so they are a little spongy. I will get a strip of solid rubber tomorrow. I guess I will cut the shims down since there are no discussions on exactly how to apply them. It all looks good. The front and rear brackets appear to follow the contour of the window. If there is any feedback I am all ears. I want to do this right and I hope I used all of the information correctly. Thanks. Bill. Posted from my Kindle.

What are you using to reattach the SS Trim on the DS/ PS door glass. Thanks BILL Posted from my Kindle

BSWOR/PAK I cannot log on from any other computer using the new password you sent me. I can only use it from my kindle. I have tried to change my password you gave me however the process will not recognize my information. Using my kindle is not the most effective way to stay engaged with the forum. Can you please help me. Thanks Bill

BSWOR/PAK I cannot log on from any other computer using the new password you sent me. I can only use it from my kindle. I have tried to change my password you gave me however the process will not recognize my information. Using my kindle is not the most effective way to stay engaged with the forum. Can you please help me. Thanks Bill

So I was prompted to enter my password. Well I thought I remembered it but with all the damn passwords we have to remember I forgot the one for this site. So I hit the I forgot my password button. Followed all the directions and instructions. Could never get a new password emailed to me. Frustrated for 2 weeks yes I tried for two week I reached out to my friend Mad In NC and explained the issues and asked him to reach out to Pak or anyone that could help. I got a.newnmessage again but still had the same issue so in created a new account which I did not want to do. Same issues. I guess the admin sawnthat I was trying to create a new account and sent me a new password for my old account. It worked! THANK YOU. But there must be an issue with this function. I'm back in the game.THANKS BSWOR

Thank you. I ordered the ones I needed from NPD. I chose the Ford Tooling ones and they arrived today. Exactly like the ones that need to be replaced. FYI; these weather strips are different for fastback's and coupes.

Well at least I know what type of mud flaps to buy.

I need to replace my DS/PS door glass weather strip that slides into the chrome molding on the glass. Anybody replace these? Who carries these? Will the fastback ones work? Thanks