tonyinsandiego

It appears I have a temp gauge problem. My gauge is pegged to hot right away. I added a resistor (25 Ohms) between the temp wire to sensor and ground but the gauge still pegs. This is why I believe I have a temperature gauge problem. Do the experts in this thread concur and where can I get another temp gauge if needed? Cheers everyone

I'm using an AOD yoke from two different vehicles. I have one from a LTD and the time does fit but binds inside. I see the AOD yoke is not hollow like the fmx yoke. I thought about boring out the aod yoke to match the fmx yoke but worry about strength and leaking from the tail shaft. Now I know exactly what to measure and it looks like I need up to an inch of travel. Looks like I can order on line if I supply the measurement and that sounds pretty straight forward.

Thanks guys. It looks like sideline services is the place to go. Do you guys know about how much shorter your drive shaft turned out in the end. Just trying to get a ball park figure just in case I get a bad tape measure or my measuring is way off. I'm thinking about an inch shorter. Also sounds like I might need another drive shaft if it's original.

Hello all, I'm in the middle of an AOD swap and I am having issues with installing the drive shaft. The extra length of the AOD is causing problems with the original drive-shaft (so I believe) install. It's looking like I need to shorten my drive-shaft about 1". Does this sound right for the guys with the AOD swap? If so, how much did you shorten the drive shaft and how much play did the yoke have to slide on the splined shaft? I have a 351W that had the FMX transmission and now it's got an AOD in there. It's currently up just need the linkage done and the drive-shaft installed. Any help or tips is appreciated.

Can I get a few pics too. I'd appreciate it. tonyinsandiego@gmail.com Thanks

What type of pickup did you use for the pan? Is it different then the stock pickup?

Can I get a few more pics on the oil pan please? I'd like to see the inside for baffles and if the rails are straight. Part that contacts the block. Thanks, tonyinsandiego@gmail.com

This is definitely my fault and Bruce is apologizing on my behalf. My apology also goes out to the original poster for the hijacking. Bruce, Thank you for all the help and expertise on the AOD trans subject. Original it was my intention to find a set of headers to fit the AOD. I will have to work that out later. I have a pair I will try and bend and make fit although not try Y's. That's expensive to try and make fit after cutting/bending and hacking up. Bruce, to answer your question I currently have a stock 4 barrel manifold on a 351W that will be swapped to a edelbrock performer manifold. I did some porting and the polishing needs improving on the manifold. I'll look that up online when the time comes. I'll see how the performer manifold works out. It looks like you have an aluminum manifold also so my bracket may be the same setup your using. Again, thanks for all the pictures and help.

I read a lot of info on the lokar bracket not having enough spring pressure to return the transmission lever to the at rest position. I came across an F150 and snagged the brackets and the cable. The question I have is did you cut and weld your bracket on the upper part to the carb. I'm pretty sure we have the same bracket from the pics I see. I'm I correct in assuming you did a little cut and welding to get the bracket mounted to the carb correctly? After some research I think this is the best way to go so I'm copying what you have. How many miles do you have on the AOD setup?

I have the same problem. Wanted to make a gasket but that turned out to be difficult. I used a bead of RTV to prevent water leaking. Probably not the best fix but so far I think its working.

This is a very cool story and it looks like you have a great car. When I was in High School I had a 1969 Fastback with the deluxe interior and tilt steering. Long story short is I totaled it. Fast forward today I have a 1969 Mach 1 and currently doing a resto mod. I have the AOD trans ready to go in. I just need the AOD yoke from a mustang. Trans didn't come with that part. New suspension up front. Redoing the interior and want to get it back on the road. It has the 351W and I think it's 3.50 gears in the back. I think I want to go with 4.11 or 4.56 with the AOD. I do have a Holley on it. I like the holley's for the easy to work on aspect. Not exactly the same car I had in high school but I really love the lines on the fastbacks. I have a good friend who helps out when he can but it's cool you have guys helping you out. Wish you were closer. Seems we both have a very similar project and going about the same speed. I can't wait to see it when your done. My goal is to beat my buddy's 94 vette with my 60's technology mustang. He has the 350 and I have the 351. I'm sure he's much lighter then me but it's all in good fun.

Bruce, another question, How are you hooking up the gear selector from the transmission to the gear selector inside the car? Is this a cable or linkage? You have any pics of your set up. Your pics are helping make a lot. On a side note, are you concerned about the torque from a big block to the AOD? What type of upgrades did the AOD get, if any?

How did the transmission work out? I know this is pretty much a dead thread but looking for a resolution to your problem. I'm doing a AOD swap so getting all the info I can. Thanks, TOny

Thank you very much Bruce. This helps out tremendously. Unfortunately, I think I have the shorter AOD. It's from a 93 ish mustang. Maybe I'll duplicate your bracket if I need to.

I currently have a 4v factory intake but I will switch to a edelbrock manifold. Already did the porting and some polishing but not quite ready to install. I'm currently working on the interior.

Thanks Bruce, This looks like it's exactly what I'm looking for. You did mention I could use my original transmission mount bracket. Is this something I could do by turning the existing bracket 180 degrees and mount the AOD transmission to the original bracket? I keep hearing I need an aftermarket transmission bracket because of the longer AOD. This makes the mounting holes farther out then from the original FMX.

LB, That looks very nice. What year was the F150 that donated the parts to you. I'm thinking of going with the same set up. It looks very factory, easy and reliable. I also like your transmission mount. Do you have a drawing or did you fab that up by measuring and creating your own setup? Looks like it's somewhat easy to fab. Thanks for the pics. I'd like to mimic your system. My headers will most likely be heated and bent to work. It will be interesting how that works out.

Would it be possible to snap a few pics of your TV and bracket set up. I think the factory stuff is the way to go after thinking about what you said. I finally have the aod ready to go in. It always takes longer then you think.\ Thanks

Hi there, If it's still available can you PM me with a price and pic. Let me know what it needs to go back together in an original 1969 mustang. Thanks, Tony

I did buy the Lokar TV cable. I would like to check out what you have. The Lokar cable will need lube and a little loc tight just for extra security. I was expecting a little more from Lokar so, I can see where you're coming from. The bracket I was inquiring about is the one going to the transmission to the frame holding up the rear part of the tranny. What will you do about the drive shaft? I take it you'll use OEM drive shaft. I don't quite understand what your saying about the parasitic loss in an automatic. When they lock up do you still have a loss? Does parasitic loss translate to slip or just the power going through the transmission from input to output? Thanks Bruce

I thought I was crazy doing this with a 351W. I hear header fitment is nothing short of a nightmare with the AOD. I have a few leads on a AOD and will make my decision most likely this weekend. I;d like to hear how this works out with the FE big block. Have you considered a stroked 351? This also surprises my since they AOD has the lock up converter. Plus you can get the AOD in a wide ratio gaer set up and be a little quicker off the line and have 30% overdrive. I'm also going after a few extra MPG's. How are you solving the braket issue with the AOD? Making one or buying one from a vendor?

Can you tell me about the bell housing fitment issues. I'm looking for the same set up and just want to know what to look out for. I will go with the AOD even if it means giving up headers. I think the AOD trumps the headers all though i would like both. Anyone with any suggestions?? The AOD with the tri Y would be the setup I'd like to go for but, you do have to pick and choose your battles. #1 choice is the AOD with tri Y's. #2 AOD with headers and #3 AOD with a dual exhaust custom set up. One thing I don't understand is why would you choose 2" over 2.25" pipes? I'm still in the learning process and looking for all the info I can get. Any advice out there? I usually learn by 2 methods. First, by the mistakes I make or by the mistakes others make. The second is usually the cheaper one :) Thanks for any info.

I second that. Just put the price you want for it,

I'm also doing the same job, replacing fender aprons (Only on the battery side). So I can use the same measurements. Do you think I can get a copy of the 70's spec you have. Should be very similar to the 1969 models. It's very much appreciated guys.

I'll give it a try. I thought spring pressure had something to do with it. Do you think a spacer will work if I cram something between the brake switch tab and the metal end? Thanks for the tip guys.