tonyinsandiego

Hi Dano I'll take this setup if it's still available. Let me know. Thanks.

Hi guys, Just wanted to chime in here,First Off Mr. Linden Bruce knows his AOD's. I'd listen to anything he has to say. Smart guy, only wants to help you and has a lot of experience. Here is my experience with the AOD conversion from Mike's Transmission in Lancaster: I went with Mike's Transmissions in Lancaster Ca. I'm happy with the results but I did go back and forth with the flex plate, be aware your flex plate in the C6 won't work with the AOD. At least mine didn't. I had a custom flexplate made and re-balanced. I didn't' counting on that and the transmission shop struggled a little with this. I am happy with the transmission performance overall. Set up the pressure correctly. That was the hardest part for me. Tranny was beefed up so standard pressure settings didn't work out for me. After dialing in the transmission it runs awesome. I have the 351C (approx 450+ hp) that had the C6 and swapped to the AOD for the overdrive. I did this because of the 4.11 gears that had my car sound like an airplane taking off on the freeway. Very close to the same gears but with the OD. Torque converter is a 2800 stall and will rip my tires no problem. Only problem I have is hooking up. One thing I did is add a pressure gauge to read my transmission pressure while driving, I did this so I can easily set up the pressure with carb adjustments, removal etc. If you have any questions feel free to fit me up. FYI-- I went with Mike's Transmission after reading an article from a mustang magazine on line.

If they are still available I'm interested. Tony Tonyinsandiego@gmail.com Thanks

Hi there, Can I get a few pics please? tonyinsandiego@gmail.com Thank you.

The size I needed was a 3/8-24 adapter for my front disk brake setup. Then a 3 AN fitting to the SS brake line to the Baer disk brake Setup. Posting for future reference.

Hi Guys, I'm swapping over a factory disk brake setup to a Baer disk brake set up and I need the size of the male brake fittings going into the Block attached to the rubber brake hose to the caliper. Does anyone know the size of the flared fitting? Thanks in advance

I'm interested in a system. Tried PM but looks like mailbox is full. Have a few questions on price, shipping cost (zip 92071) type of system, is it turn key, possible options with system. Thanks

Hi there. I'm interested in the Demon 750. How many miles and what condition is it in? Any pics PM Sent

Hi Mr. Stangman, What's your opinion on this setup with a 351C motor in a 1969? Not enough spring for the Cleveland weight?

HI Bruce, I'm curious as to how you like the trans after a few years and what is your opinion on the reliability behind the big block...which I'm guessing isn't stock. Nicely done. I'm currently putting in a AOD behind a 351C motor. Waiting on getting the flywheel and torque converter to work together. Holes are off between the torque converter and flex plate.

Hi Bob, I'm still in if you guys will take my money. Tried sending a private message but it didn't go through. Regards, Tony

I'm in for 20% off. Let me know what I need to do. Sounds like a great system for the price.

I think I'd be interested depending on the discount. I think 10% is there average discount just for the asking. Sounds like a nice setup. Regards,

HI There, I am interested. I'll call tomorrow at a reasonable hour. Tony

Here is a update on the starter issue. I changed the alternator to a 3G set up (130 Amps), When the fan kicks in my battery stays at a constant 13.7 volts. Before the alternator swap, my fan would kick in and drop voltage from 11.7 to 12.0 volts. With my fan on and any night driving my battery would drop quick. The old alternator wasn't up to taking on the electric fan. I haven't been stuck in weeks...well with the 69 stang anyway. The 66 is another ball game, I was stuck twice last week with 66 stang (no spark on the freeway. Been working on that lately. It's always something. The 69 is running great. Just in time for me to pull the transmission and swap in the AOD. What can possibly go wrong...

This is certainly all conjecture at this point and it certainly does sound way out there. My thinking is a relay requires a certain voltage to hold in the contacts. Imagine if the voltage is low enough to pull in the contact but not strong enough to hold the contact tight enough to seal the contacts hard. I'll have resistance in the contacts and with a high load (say like a starter) that high current would weld my loosely closed contact together. I think this is exactly how a poor ground or low voltage can cause a relay to stick in this way. I'm interested in why you think this can't happen. I'm chasing this ghost because everything else is checking out okay and this happened with a bran new sparkling starter relay. I've actually tried three different relays. I had to eliminate something. It's either this crazy stupid idea or the starter. Changed starter relay and ignition switch (not the key part). I think Danno has the right idea of checking voltages across the starter relay coil and across the starter. I did charge the battery for 24 hours on a trickle charge and tested the starter circuit and the starter was certainly a lot stronger then it sounded on Sunday and it had about 12.2 volts across the battery. I'll have to measure the drop when the relay kicks in and the starter is turning the motor. I think my fan is killing the battery because the alternator isn't keeping up with the current demand thus giving me this problem. It certainly does sound cocka-manie...I agree with that. Right now this makes the most sense to me but, I can easily be talked out of it. Additional thoughts? Ground to the starter solenoid is good. Basically a stock set up with two sheet metal bolts through the engine bay near the battery. Appears to be a solid ground. Battery drops to 10.1 volts from 12.2volts when cranking. Does anyone know the drop on battery when there motor is turning over by the starter? Am I in the ball park at full charge?

I used the same exact fan but, for controls I choose a different route. I used a fan control switch for my fan low circuit and a 12v controller powered through ignition circuit that controls the high speed setup. The 12v controller was something like $5 but I used SS relays to control the fans and that's what was pricey. You can use a standard relay but I'm thinking at some point I'll try a different setup with PWM and/or PID control. That controllers for PID are pricey but I've seen them for as low as $35. Great price for PID control, I have that setup in a Toyota Tacoma with the fan control switch as a back up. The fan control switch comes on after I turn it off and it starts to heat soak. I like having it on to control the heat soak at shutdown. Of coarse, both are adjustable. Directions suck on the Chinese controller but, not to hard to figure out. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-50-110-C-Digital-Heat-Cool-Temp-Thermostat-Temperature-Control-Switch-/400881093276?hash=item5d56600a9c http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C39C6I?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I'm going with under dash heater core bracket...My best guess.

All righty now. Did a little troubleshooting today and I think the problem is most likely a weak factory alternator.,,,The hell you say, Well I do have an electric fan cooling a 351C with an optima battery, Picked that battery for the quick recharges it's capable of but, the alternator has to keep Mr battery happy and charged, Lets say my battery drops to 11V and can pull in the starter contact but just not enough to turn the starter and said relay pulls in and heats up those contact points to the point it turns my optima battery into a relay starter contact welder??? But wait...there's more. I Was able to recreate the oil light turning on by tapping the starter solenoid until the contact did the same thing...Keep in mind this is a brand new 2 day old starter relay. To fix this problem I'd need a larger capacity alternator to keep the battery happy with the fan running. Now I have to question the starter relay....again. So, do I go with Option A, low power alternator as the root of all evil that possibly killed another starter relay or option B I'm terrible at this and barking up the wrong tree, keep looking for the error of my ways? I no longer think the problem is in the key switch since I can recreate the oil light on the dash turning on or even the starter at this point because it appears to work as ford intended. Okay gents please chime in with your thoughts. Does this make sense? By the way, I got the beast home Sunday by bypassing the solenoid (the brand new one) after a jump start and drove home with the starter lead taped up. I have the battery on charge now so if this does make sense it should act normal...Whatever the hell that is lately. My starter relay is now questionable, Grounds are good to motor/frame and motor/battery. The frame to motor I think could be a little thicker but, hell my original alternator is what?... 40-50 amps from the factory. Certainly wasn't design for the future but, it can get up to 88 faster then any DoLorean.

Starter does sound like the next logical step. This most likely is sticking. This could potentially be two issues, my starter sticking and a bad key switch. When I turned the car off the oil light was still on...This makes me think the key switch is still in the on position, Will also check ground from the motor to the body. I know the motor to battery is a good ground will check motor to the body tonight and possibly pull the starter, I'll keep you guys updated until this is completely resolved. Thanks for the tips gents.

DId replace the solenoid with a more expensive unit but I still have the problem. I'm pretty confident it's not a solenoid issue or at least not now, Tried two different solenoids then replaced with a brand new unit.

HI guys, I'm having an issue with my starter (starting circuit). This is an intgermittent issue but getting worse. Been stuck all day today. When I turn on the ignition to the start side of the switch my starter occasionaly stays on. Ive swapped out the starter solenoid (I think this problem caused the first solenoid to fail) Problem is still there. I tried swapping out the ignition switch (not the key switch but the contact part) and I have the same issue. On occasion Ive had the key out and had an oil light on (Both switch contacts did this). This tells me int's in the ingnition / key switch. I can order a new one but i'm not sure this is the issue and will resolve this. Is there something else I should check or look at. Is it possible its the regulator not shutting off? Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

Ok I pretty sure I found the root cause of the temp problem pegging out, Looks like the PO had this wire hooked up to an electric choke. I guess any available wire will do if it's not connected to anything. I actually thought this was working at some point in time but that was a while ago. Anyway now I know what the problem is and I can easily fix it. I starting looking at schematics to see what wires went to the gauges, It looks like only one connector is used for the oil P/Water T/coil power. Thought someone would like an update. Next is geting the tach and ammeter working. Cheers

Glad to hear I'm on the right track. I have a 66 GT with inoperable blinkers that kicks butt, unfortunately it's my butt. Still working through that too. I have a 1969 Mach 1 and a 66 GT coupe.

I did a few checks today and I can't see anything obvious in the engine bay. I read across the sensor and this is approximately 800 ohms cold and around 25 Ohms hot (boiling water). The senser appears to work okay. Maybe not exactly factory specs but shouldn't peg the gauge. If I read across the wire to ground I get about 125 Ohms. I definetly have something shorted across the wire. This could be under the dash or possibly a shorted gauge. I can test the gauge by taking my oil pressure wire and hooking that up to my temp gauge. Best case is remove the wire from the gague and attach the oil pressure wire directly to the gauge. I apparently have to remove the dash pad and gauge cluster to play around a little more. Let me know if you guys think I'm on the right track. Cheers