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tonyinsandiego

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Posts posted by tonyinsandiego


  1. I had a DCC controller and was not happy with it.  I oversized it by 40% and it failed just after a year.  I got a digital dakota dash and used the optional electric fan set up and been happy after 4 years.  I've added another temp controller to my Tacoma truck with a temp controller off line for about 30 bucks and added a thermocouple and this has lasted over 10 years.  My taurus fan went out and replaced it but, never had issues with the temp controller.  I have it set to stay on until it goes below a certain temp.  If you do a little research you can design a better system for way cheaper  .Most expensive part was a solid state relay.  This was about $100 but it's lasted over 10 years.

    https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=83

     


  2. Here is an awesome little controller I use for one of my setups.  Capable of dual fan control if you use the output plus alarm setting for hi and low.  You can also see the temps and monitor when the controller is on and what state (Hi or low).  I love this thing and it's lased about 8 years and still going.  I tried the DCC controller and it failed after about 18 months.  I was very disappointed in the DCC controller but like the idea.  I set up the Auber controller to do the same thing,  Turns it self off at a certain temp.  I think it's worth checking out.  You will need relays.  I used solid state relays with the Contour fan set up.  The solid state relays get expensive as the current goes up.  Keep that in mind.

    https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=83

    Cheers, Tony


  3. Here is another update:  Folded the transmission gasket and had a leak all over the garage.  Took the pan down again (4th time this round) and straightened it out.  Let's see how this works.  Will try adjusting pressure tomorrow.  What pressure are you AOD guys running with trans in drive?  I hear 3-5 psi?


  4. Update for transmission lever on AOD:

    Replaced the shifter lever at the transmission side.  To do this I had to loosen the header from the head and remover hardware at the collector.  Removed the bolt inside the transmission and replaced it with a lever with three holes and a little extra length.  Gears appear to line up with transmission.  Tomorrow I adjust the pressure and hopefully take a drive.  Hopefully this will last a little while.

    Thanks for the input guys!!


  5. I have everything hooked up: Cable to carb, drive shaft set up, headers installed, parking brakes hooked up.  Only thing is the drive linkage.  It looks like I need to make a bracket to extended the linkage connection point at the transmission side.  In park I can draw a line but in 1 it's off by at least 1".  I'll work on the bracket tomorrow.  Thanks for the info gents.


  6. Well here is my AOD update.  My brand new transmission failed after less then 300 miles and of coarse no warranty.  Even after I was told not to worry about the time frame during the rebuild we would be able to work something out.  My guess is there is something wrong with the valve body.  I don't think I was getting full pressure to my clutches.  Well long story short I got another transmission and installed it but I have an issue with the shift lever.  My transmission lever is clocked up but when I connect the linkage and shift gears I don't get the full stroke.  I have the original shifter rod that came with the car and the original shifter lever with the transmission.  I can get the linkage hooked up but when I shift from park to reverse it goes through reverse and into neutral or park before the red indicator arrow points to the correct letter in the car .  Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this issue.

    Thanks in advance,

    Tony


  7. Hi guys,

    I have a 69 Mach 1 with a 351C and my heater lines from the fire wall are close to the head they'll kink if I install them.  I'm pretty sure I'd drive the car more with a heater in the winter so I'm wondering how you guys get the heater hose connected without kinks?  Can you guys send some pics of your set up and let me know what you guys did to get around this.

    Thanks guys,

    Much appreciated.  I'll post pics of my clearance issue when I get a chance.


  8. I do have continuity at the terminal contacts,  This tells me my rim blow switch is working.  I had the steering wheel off and I didn't check continuity between the  screw contacts from the rim blow (wire leads) and the contact plate (what I was calling a ring).  You're right, I was referring to the back of the wheel the contacts ride.  I know the rim blow steering wheel isn't the best design but it's a nice novelty.  Thanks for the help.  Not really understanding why this isn't working.  I could have a build up of crap on the contact plate.  I tried cleaning this with acetone and super fine scotch bright . 


  9. Horn isn't working.  Here is what I do know.  Horn will work if I remove the steering wheel and short out the little brushes making contact with the steering wheel.  The steering wheel has the rim blow horn and it makes contact from the rim switch to the screw terminals.  The problem has to be after the screw terminals or the contact of the ring and brushes.  Has anyone had an issue with this before?  I did not check the continuity between the ring and the rim blow screw terminals.  If that's the case, then my entire steering wheel could be shot,

     

    Suggestions....


  10. Horn isn't working.  Here is what I do know.  Horn will work if I remove the steering wheel and short out the little brushes making contact with the steering wheel.  The steering wheel has the rim blow horn and it makes contact from the rim switch to the screw terminals.  The problem has to be after the screw terminals or the contact of the ring and brushes.  Has anyone had an issue with this before?  I did not check the continuity between the ring and the rim blow screw terminals.  If that's the case, then my entire steering wheel could be shot,

     

    Suggestions....

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