fordguy69

Moser. Got my complete 3rd member form them. Very nice setup.

I trimmed mine using a cross flow rad that sits on top of the frame rails. No problems and gave me a lot more room between the engine and the rad.

I trimmed mine using a cross flow rad that sits on top of the frame rails. No problems and gave me a lot more room between the engine and the rad.

X2, never seize for the win.

Fast makes one that has two O2 sensors.

I am pretty sure it's illegal and/or immoral to rent out old folks even in California!:smartass:

[ATTACH]17760[/ATTACH] 18/7 on front 18/9.5 on rear. No mods with 275's.

How much for the whole setup? And where are you located?

Long tube options include Crites (I thing they are made by Tubular Automotive) and MPG Heads. Bear in mind that both of the long tube options require their own style frame/motor mounts. MPG's place the engine very low and provide decent header clearance, however they also place the engine quite far forward too. Using the 69 T-bird/Boss 429 short water pump will gain you 1/2" extra fan/radiator clearance. Not sure on the Crites set up these days. The only Crites I have used is the Gen 1 that placed the engine up real high and necessitated a hood scoop. I understand they now have a Gen 2 set up that places the engine much lower. Mine has the MPG setup and I like it. Headers are a tight fit but they flow well and sound great. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/429-460Stangs/info?yguid=482969527 You may want to join the above group. It's a network of a bunch of folks who have done the swap. It's not real active but if you broadcast an email message to the group with questions, you will get many responses. Are you planning on notching the shock towers? Hey Rocketman, what's the tube diameter on those FPA shorties?

Use an appropriate sized oil filter wrench on the big part of the distributor body too. Helps with the leverage.

For the record, the FMX is NOT a dog. It isn't necessarily a performance oriented tranny but it is a very tough and reliable trans, albeit heavier than snot.

Ospho, sand it again and then epoxy.

You will do better by getting a custom cam grind from one of the guys that knows Fords. Most off the shelf cams are ground on Chevy lobe libraries and are a compromise for Ford heads. A custom cam doesn't cost much more than off the shelf but will work better for YOUR combination. Try these guys. They KNOW fords. http://reincarnation-automotive.com/about_us, goes by the name Mad Porter on a few sites. Really knows his stuff. Getting my next cam from him, he really knows 460's. And he is a great guy to talk to or email with. http://www.camresearchcorp.com/ Got a cam from them a few years back for a Jeep with a 302 ford. He ground it for my specific needs and it works really well, plus they offer a break in service for flat tappets. They really know small blocks. Both of these guys are EMC competitors and specialize in Fords.

I would imagine that you could use headers for a 70 with a 351C-2v?

That's the metal part of the motor mount that attaches to the block. Rubber part and the frame attachment part is missing. When you buy new motor mounts, a piece like this will be bonded together with the rest of the mount. You can toss that in the refuse pile.

If you don't need or want the self contained throttle body/injector set ups, there are lots of really good systems out there. I assumed the OP wanted the self contained unit, since he mentioned the MSD Atomic and Fast 2.0. Big Stuff, the Holley Dominator, Fast XFI, even Megasquirt if you are a serious techie. If I were going to go that route, I would have Induction Solutions build me a system, but my wallet ain't that fat!

At your horsepower level, you are limited. That is the upper limit of most of the throttle body style EFI's. If you want to use one of the four injector setups, use the MSD. You can stretch the limit of it by increasing the fuel pressure, some. But you are going to have injector duty cycle issues at that level. I would suggest the EZ EFI 2.0. It has eight injectors and a much higher HP limit. And with the eight injectors, your duty cycle will be much lower. And as you stated, if you use their distributor you can control timing through the ECU. There is a guy over on 460ford.com doing the 2.0 conversion right now. Look for a thread by customblackbird. When I convert mine, I will be using the 2.0.

Had to make a sheet metal plate to fit behind the master just to cover up the enlarged hole that is there for the power brakes. The master fits right in the location that a manual factory master would be, same holes that are already there. You must use a manual brake pedal though, the pivot point for the master push rod is vastly different. The pedal ratio is way higher for the manual pedal. The power pedal would not have enough leverage for the manual master. Check out this site to describe all the differences in the pedals. http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/msFAQbrakepedals.html I currently just have stock style front discs with ceramic pads, nothing exotic.

1. Are you having problems with the dreaded 2-3 shift balk? No, but I did have some pretty notchy shifting at first, seems to have gotten better with more miles. 2. Did you have Liberty, Hanlon, etc. do any aftermarket work to your trans? No. 3. Are any of you running faceplated transmissions? If so, what's it like to drive on the street? No. 4. Which shifter are you running, how do you like it, and did it line up with the existing holes in the tunnel and console? I modified a Hurst shifter to get it where I wanted it. Didn't line up, but my setup is pretty custom and I raised the tunnel to get driveline angles right. 5. What clutch are you running. Experiences? McLeod RST twin disc. Absolutely love it. Easy pedal effort with Modern Driveline hydraulic clutch master and Wilwood external slave. And it has excellent hold.

I used the WIL-260-12900-BLK, but I was converting from power to manual brakes, because my 545 isn't going to make enough vacuum for the power brakes. I emailed them with my application and what I wanted to do and they sent me the part number to use. It worked perfectly. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12900-bk/overview/ I think I remember reading somewhere that they made a direct replacement for the power master cylinder as well. They responded to my email within 24 hours too!

Wilwood makes a direct bolt on. Just put one on mine. Nice piece.

The best way to change your plugs is to notch your shock towers first! :biggrin: With the stock shock towers, take off your valve covers and I found that using a plug socket with a hex on the outside helps too. Your hood clearance issue depends on which mount set up you used. The Crites Gen 1 puts the engine up very high and a hood scoop is necessary with darn near any intake. The Crites Gen 2 and MPG puts the engine much lower and you can get by without a scoop with a Torker II and perhaps a Eddy Performer and RPM. Stealth and Victor, forget it, cut a hole. It sounds to me like you have the higher setup. These big motors need a lot of air and with that short an air cleaner, I would bet you are leaving some performance on the table. I notice that when I closed the hood on mine with about 2" of clearance and the filter off, the idle would noticeably drop. Also when the air cleaner lid is too close to the carb vent tubes, it creates issues. However, the torque that these big boys make, makes it all worthwhile! I am on my third 385 powered 69. I LOVE these motors.

Totally agree with the above. I have the .64 with 3.50's and the spread between 4th and 5th is too big. If you are going to keep the 3.55's get the .82. I am going back to 3.89's in mine.

It physically drops in, but will require modification to the filler neck and you have to use the proper 70 sending unit. There was a recent article on this in either Mustang Monthly or Modified Mustangs. I just did this to my 69 and I bought the "conversion" filler neck, but I had to further modify it as well. Not a big deal though, basically just cut about an inch out of it up near the bend and welded it back together.

Sand it, ospho it, sand it again, wipe down with PRE or some other pre-paint cleaner and epoxy prime.