TexasEd

My favorite type of cop is to cop a feel.  My wife just calls it groping.
 

My favorite type of cop is to cop a feel.  My wife just calls it groping.
 

That's very close to mine. Back when I started out a long time ago, I thought I'd keep it all original. Even bought some bias ply tires. Then I figured a plain-jane  F-code was boring, so I went with some period correct mods - stuff you could have done back in the early 70's. I had a set of vintage Ansen Sprints, an Edelbrock F4-B intake,  and even a vintage Holley 600. 
Then I added some invisible modern stuff - Pertronix and headlight relays, LEDs for all the interior and dash lights. Mini-starter. Used a retro roller cam just to up the cost of the engine rebuild :)
Now that I've driven it for a few years, disk brakes and a T5 on are on the list to make it more fun on the road.
Never used the bias ply tires. They're dry rotting away in my shop with, like, 100 miles wear on them :)
 

My vision ?  Running in the mid 8's in the 8th mile.   Not impossible or unrealistic but probably unlikely.  Brian 

My issue has been an ever changing vision. 

I had a Griffin before my crash. It was an "Direct-fit", not the Exact-fit, so I had to dent the underside of the hood to clear the cap. I had dual slim spal fans. It cooled great, but for my rebuild I wanted a OEM appearance and a perfect fit, so I went with DeWitts with dual spal fans in a shroud. Have not run the car with that setup yet.
Only thing you need to go to the 24" radiator is  removing the drivers side block off plate, and adding the bolt in lower radiator cradles. And new hoses of course.

Yes, My confidence level has gone from 20% to 90% with the link that @Kris shared to Classic Auto Air https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-daily-driver-ac-kit/
If you look at the under dash plenum it looks the same as the one I have.  I only need to patch in my old controls.  I'll get modern performance with the vintage look.
That is my "vision" for my car.  To keep the vintage look and have better performance, reliability and drive-ability.  So putting new guts inside the AC I have fits along with the put a digital radio with bluetooth inside my vintage AM radio.
This sounds like a good topic for a thread of it's own.

Put in a stealth kill switch.
Hooked the MSD white wire to the cigarette lighter. Push in the lighter, the engine cranks but won't fire. (Mustang thieves don't read Mustang forums. DO they?)
Fixed a rattle in the rear. Turns out it was the 3 light conversion for the tail light that was vibrating with the stereo. A bit of silicone sorted it out.

With my 69 Coupe I am going the restomod route. I have performed the Arning/Shelby UCA drop, rebuilt the complete front suspension using period correct looking parts that have been modified including a roller idler arm for the manual steering, 1" lowering front coil springs, 1" lowering 4.5 mid eye rear leaf springs, adjustable strut rods, 68/69 Mustang GT wheels, Mach-1 hood scoop, front & rear spoilers, & Shelby convertible lower side scoops. It has a modified 5.0 roller motor, T-5 5 speed, hydraulic clutch, dual electric cooling fans, front disc brake conversion a period correct looking AM/FM stereo with modified internals to be able to play my MP-3 player through it, Dakota Digital VHX gauges, sub frame connectors, Monte Carlo bar, export brace, rear seat to trunk divider panel, & a complete rewire using AAW wiring kit. My Coupe was originally painted meadowlark yellow, I will have it painted chrome yellow still keeping it in the yellow family, &  still trying to decide if I want to go EFI or just put a carb on it.

Depending on what your ac needs it may be cheaper to replace it. Classic auto air has a kit that looks very similar to what you have. It’s a little on the pricy side and why not upgrade to the in dash unit at that cost if you have to. Your upper controls should be an easy fix. Your cables are probably broken or locked up. 
 
https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-daily-driver-ac-kit/

My guess on your frozen switch is the cable that operates it is bad. If your controls the factory installed ones there is nothing to them so it could only be the cable. If you go with vintage air or classic auto air they reuse your factory non ac gauges. All the cables that originally operated them are deleted also. 

Also, I'm slow today and not following these two posts.  
 

I replaced the whole front suspension. Some Klutz had put in 2 different height spindles and then spaced the arms to make it fit. It started out as a squeaking ball joint that needed greasing, ended up being a total rebuild.
Lucky for us Down Here we have Falcons for donor cars that are plentiful. So I took the front out of a 1991 model with rubber bushes on the top arms and disc stub axles. Sand blasted them, painted chassis black, put in new ball joints, lowered front springs and a 1 1/8" sway bar. Used polyurethane bushes throughout (only because they were cheaper than OEM rubber). At the same time I put 1/8" spacers in the front of the top arm bolts to give it castor and used local KMAC camber bolts to give it camber. Replaced some ordinary wheel bearings too.
Drove it first time yesterday. Seems to steer slightly better - I think the PS box is a bit wobbly - and turns nicer. Sure has some camber on it, it needs a wheel alignment. Sits about 1" above the 15" wheel which is disappointing. I had hoped to get the tyre at least level with the guard but that may still happen once the springs settle.
At least it's a job that is done and I don't need to worry about it.

Following a 1970 Sportroof with a 351C.
 

Drove it over 50 miles.  Longest trip in decades.
 

Metuchen build date: 10/07/69:  Sold to Maguires Garage Inc. Duncannon PA on 10/17/69

Here's mine built Feb 24th and is now enjoying Western Australia.

They do not go into the trunk at all. 

I went for the CJPP LEDs. In Australia you can't have the brake lights blinking so I did a little mod. I also added a brake light under the spoiler. Walking past the rear you can't se it until you crouch down. Not for everyone but I want to lessen the chances of a rear ender.

A day late posting, but Roxy turned 50 yesterday! The second picture is the day i bought her in 2007 after a 16 month deployment to Afghanistan (and a gift to myself). The last shows her nestled in with the rest of the corral (Rowdy and Rhonda).

I went with a stock style with mild upgrades and could not be happier.  Talk to John at OpenTracker.
I did roller spring perches, roller idler arm, lowered upper control arms and put 620# springs in front and mid-eye leafs in rear.  It drives better than when it was new. I keep stock appearance, get better performance, and saved a lot of money.  I also did a CSRP Disc brake upgrade on my original spindles.
https://opentrackerracing.com/
http://www.discbrakeswap.com/

Here is my VHX box installed. I am using AAW wiring harness.  The box is mounted to my Vintage Air system.   
 

I recently tore my original headliner.  When I touched it the thread was dry rotter and it split at the first seam.  Now I have old foam padding falling on me.  I probably need to get new sail panels too.
I have the Dark Red interior so I need that color.  What should I do about the insulation?  Is this the time to replace the package tray, seat belts, etc?  My windshield also has a lot of pitting.  One thing leads to another.

Fixed my passenger side sport mirror.  Watched a video from West Coast Classic Cougar and tightened it up so it stays put when I drive before I put new mirror glass on it.
Installed new medallions on the sides.
Just ordered an original 69 C9Z AM Philco radio,  It did not have knobs but I think I have some.  Yelling at 16 year old me for losing that original radio.