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TexasEd

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  1. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from RPM in I see the light ... body and paint   
    The tree is gone now. Also adding bricks to widen the end of the driveway. 
     
     



  2. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in I see the light ... body and paint   
    The tree is gone now. Also adding bricks to widen the end of the driveway. 
     
     



  3. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from Mach1 Driver in I see the light ... body and paint   
    So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in.  Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger.  I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids.
    Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January.  So excited.  Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop.  Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time.  I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps.  My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else.  Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people.
    So share your stories, encouragement and advice.
    Drivetrain Plan:
    Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan:
    I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does
    remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders  Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff.
    I could potentially do all the following
    Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
     
  4. Like
    TexasEd reacted to Caseyrhe in 69 Boss 302 postage stamp   
    Philatelic catalog just came out, going to be releasing some muscle car Fore ever stamps, 5 different cars, but one is a yellow 69 Boss 302. Scheduled to release 8/25/22. 
    here’s the link if interested 
    https://www.usps.com/stamp-collecting/assets/pdf/usa_philatelic_catalog.pdf
  5. Like
    TexasEd reacted to RPM in I see the light ... body and paint   
    Damn. Sorry to hear this, but you are not alone. Last year in October while leaving Ogallala Nebraska I backed into a parked Yukon damaging my bumper and rear panel. Back circa 1999 with the 69 idling I was adding tranny fluid. Apparently it was started in reverse, and when the trans had enough fluid, it took off into an 8x8 gate post. Damaged the quarter panel, bumper, deck lid,  and rear body panel. 
    I feel your pain bro. 
  6. Like
    TexasEd reacted to Rsanter in I see the light ... body and paint   
    Some things to think about
     
    you remove and reinstall:
    emblems
    bumpers
    door handles
    etc
     
    how bad is the engine compartment and how extensive of a paint and detail,do,you want to do?
    you might want to pull the engine and trans before sending to the body shop, pull the bolts and electrical out of the engine compartment to get a better paint job in there.
    you may need to do blasting if there is rust and acid damage
  7. Sad
    TexasEd got a reaction from RPM in I see the light ... body and paint   
    Thanks. The dash install would benefit from no glass as well. 
     
    here are some pictures of what I need addressed  I picked up a near perfect original door but hopefully can save the fender.
     




  8. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in WTB 1969 Lower dash with A/C   
    I bought the Classic Auto Air perfect fit kit and it looks pretty close to a factory air system when installed.
    https://www.classicautoair.com/shop/complete-ac-systems/1969-ford-mustang-air-conditioning-system/
     

  9. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in I see the light ... body and paint   
    So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in.  Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger.  I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids.
    Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January.  So excited.  Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop.  Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time.  I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps.  My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else.  Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people.
    So share your stories, encouragement and advice.
    Drivetrain Plan:
    Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan:
    I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does
    remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders  Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff.
    I could potentially do all the following
    Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
     
  10. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from RPM in I see the light ... body and paint   
    So I have been in a queue for getting paint and body work so long I only know it is over a year but not whether it is closer to 18 or 24 months. A month ago I got tired of the delays from my shop and discouraged by all the cars they have in the shop at one time even though they said I was next so I called another shop to check in.  Slightly more money but they seem to get cars in and out quicker and I aint getting younger.  I want to enjoy my car not just leave it to my kids.
    Today the second shop said they were moving me up in line from March to late December/early January.  So excited.  Now I'm talking to an individual and a shop on rebuilding the engine that burns oil/fouled plugs while it is at the body shop.  Reduce the amount of time the car is down and get the engine bay detailed at the same time.  I have pretty much done everything else myself and these are the last steps.  My wife actually seems peeved that I have saved for so long towards this goal and would rather I spend it on something else.  Fuck it, I'm happy and here to share the excitement with like minded people.
    So share your stories, encouragement and advice.
    Drivetrain Plan:
    Pull the engine, AC, Radiator and transmission Give the engine to the rebuild shop for a mild stroker build (331, heads, intake, cam, stay carbureted) Optional C4 to T5/TKO swap and upgrade the 8" open diff to LSD with taller gears Body and Paint plan:
    I remove the interior except the dash I disassemble the headlight buckets I remove door glass and vents Shop does
    remove the stainless trim remove the front and back glass Strip the paint from whole body and door jams shave the fender emblems and fill antenna hole prime and paint with base clear in 2part formula for the original Candyapple Red Outsource the headliner install before the glass is reinstalled Detail the engine bay Get the glass and stainless reinstalled Align doors and fenders  Install new rear louvers and front chin spoiler optional add a '70 Grabber c-stripe to the sides Engine guy will install the engine transmission and diff.
    I could potentially do all the following
    Reinstall door glass, vent glass and interior including Ridge Runner sail panels Install all rubber seals Reinstall fender extensions/headlight buckets, side scoops and qtr panel extensions Reinstall headlights, tail lights and marker lights reinstall engine accessories and radiator Thanks!
     
  11. Like
    TexasEd reacted to aslanefe in bucket seats   
    Seat back is not adjustable, it only folds for access to rear seats and locks at a fix position when raised. Rubber stops are just to eliminate rattle at seat backs fixed position. I guess if you remove the rubber pieces, seat back will lean back a little more.
  12. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from RPM in Wilwood brakes   
    Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums?
    I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc.
    Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed.  You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install.  None of those problems switching to manual discs.
    So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step.  Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.
     
     
  13. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from det0326 in Wilwood brakes   
    Are they already disc brakes or are they still drums?
    I don't want to assume you already converted to disc because there will be a big jump in performance from manual drum to manual disc.
    Getting a booster installed is pretty difficult on a V8 even a 302 if the engine is still installed.  You have clearance issues, new hard lines and a new brake pedal to install.  None of those problems switching to manual discs.
    So if you don't already have them try the manual discs as an incremental step.  Nothing you do will be wasted if you want to add a booster later.
     
     
  14. Like
    TexasEd reacted to Ridge Runner in Ridgerunner Sail Panels   
    First set is for TexasEd.
    They already have the proper curve and moon skin grain ,i made the light holes a bit small just incase you use the new lights ,they are a bit smaller than the originals ,a wood dowl and 80 grit paper will open them up if you need to . 
    A strip of foam on the back side at the bottom may be needed to keep them against the hockey stick just like the card board ones have but other than that they slip in under the back window rubber and 1 screw in the front where the small molding is and paint your interior color the pinch on wind lace covers the front just like the card board ones do and thats all thats need to install .



  15. Like
    TexasEd reacted to whe42 in windshield washer pump   
    So was able to test wires and ended up being the plug was faulty so I replaced it and all works well. Thank u to all for ur help.
  16. Like
    TexasEd reacted to Mach1 Driver in Ridgerunner Sail Panels   
    What painting recommendations do you have Ridge? 
  17. Like
    TexasEd reacted to Print Dad in Brake pedal height follow up   
    Well fixed perfect.
    I had the shop install another master cylinder and rod,
    the result is perfect pedal height great brakes.
    so now she is home and probably will hibernate for winter.
    the shop only charged about 1/3 oforiginal cost .
    he thinks it was the wrong rod supplied with the master.
    I will never really know.. but it is done.
    I wanted to thank all the took time to offer ideas and help
     
    thank..,sam
     thanks 
  18. Like
    TexasEd reacted to BuckeyeDemon in 69 mach 408w build   
    last post.  i shot a little video in car and also from underneath of the rear suspension.
     
     
     
  19. Like
    TexasEd reacted to 69Mach1 M code in Foot well vent panel   
    Thanks to latoracing for providing me with some pointers on how to form the flanges. 
    Below are some photos of the driver's vent that I've been working on. I need about 3/4 of the circumference on this vent and a little less on the passenger side. I decided to go a slightly different route and form the needed flange out of two pieces to see if I could avoid fabricating forms. I used primarily a bench vice, two pliers (one positioned on each side of the bend radius), a hammer, and some scrap pieces of metal to help form a sharper bend radius. Oh, and some cardboard to make a template (only a DiGiorno pepperoni and cheese box will work here).
    The final photo is of the two fabricated flanges held in place only with some welding magnets, so they're not completely flat.







  20. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    More interior work. I trimmed the rear carpet installed the rear fiberglass panels, got a custom color paint for the package tray and installed the rear seats. 



  21. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from Grabber70Mach in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    New foam and seat covers. These are the TMI with larger bolsters. 
     

  22. Like
    TexasEd got a reaction from RPM in What did you do to/for your Mustang today?   
    New foam and seat covers. These are the TMI with larger bolsters. 
     

  23. Like
    TexasEd reacted to Mach1 Driver in How Alternators Work   
    Rev 3 of How alternators work
    Edit, I finally replaced my old defunct analog scope with a new, much cheaper, much better digital storage oscilloscope. These things have changed dramatically with the advent of digital circuitry. They can store the waveform, take the measurements and display them, do math on them (like taking the mean) and scads of other really neat features.
    So I was curious what the wave looked like at our alternator’s neutral stator terminal. Turns out it’s a pretty wicked sawtooth. So now I can dispel any mystery as to how to hook-up a choke heater to the stator. I’ve also added a page on the “Radio Noise Suppression Condenser”.
     
    How Alternators work3.docx
  24. Like
    TexasEd reacted to Mach1 Driver in Fixing the Instrument Panel   
    This has been updated to include both the tachometer and non-tach cars.This may be more detail than you need, but it is sure to have information you can't get elsewhere.
    1. It identifies all the wires coming into the plug for the flex connector, what they do, and how to test them.
    2. How the Instrument Voltage Regulator works and how to test it.
    3. How the gauges work, several ways to test them, and a detailed method to adjust or calibrate them.
    4. How to test each component- all the various lights (there are twelve of them) and even how to fix the ammeter.
    In rev5 I have updated page 7 with new information on calibrating the gauges. Some people insist that the resistance of the senders is 73 ohms, while others claim it is 78 ohms.  Regardless it is only a 6% difference and since Ford does not publish their specs, we will probably never know. But, since I'm lazy and didn't feel like changing the pictures on all the other pages, it is stated as being 78 ohms on page 7 and 73 ohms on many other pages.
     
     
    69-70 instrument gauge cluster5.docx
  25. Like
    TexasEd reacted to Mach1 Driver in Fixing the Instrument Panel   
    Hmm, I've never taken the alternator's regulator apart. If I have a need, I may take that on, but it would just be for intellectual curiosity. You can get an electronic version that may work even better than the old electro-mechanical. But, I did find some down side to the electronic IVRs that are noted in the paper above, so ya never know.
    Edit, I did a paper on How Alternators Work- see it here in the How tos.
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