TexasEd

I used my original drum spindles and installed disc brakes. I wish I had gone with the KH setup but I have the CSRP kit which I think is a Granada setup. This is my car. The calipers mount on the two holes you can see to the left of the backing plate.

Learned something new. I knew you could use the 5 lug drum spindles for discs but not that 69 and 70 needed different rotors.

I should have added up front that I would not be doing the engine upgrade if I didn't have to address bad rings or valves. At least two of my cylinders are flooded with oil. Could be valve guides or rings, either way I have to tear into it. Do I want to put it back stock? No, I don't think so. My car is a base V8 302 Sportsroof, standard interior, non A/C car with the only option I can tell is the sports Appearance Group that added the sport side mirrors, hood scoop and AM radio. The things that made my car interesting were the dealer installed AC which I have removed and the non-fold down dark red interior survived and was not switched to black. I'm not losing sleep over this anymore. Maybe over how much I'm spending but not about modifying the original block. Looking at my car with the hood down the only things people will see changed will be subtle: Removing script Mustang from the fenders Added period correct 15" Magnum 500 with RWL radial tires instead of 14" whitewalls and hubcaps Shaved antenna - I test myself and it is one of the last things I notice when I look at a classic car. Adding the chin spoiler 2 stage paint lowered front and rear, car sits level Interior differences will also be subtle No foil trim around gauges TMI Console Hurst shifter and plain white shifter knob 3 point seatbelts instead of the separate shoulder belts Speakers in the fresh air vent panels and package tray (Original AM radio in the dash, bluetooth amp inside the dash hooked to speakers) TMI Sport upholstery and foam with extra bolster in the front seats (Still dark red) Swap out the 16" steering wheel for a 14 or 15" wood rimmed wheel Classic Auto Air install using the original heater controls Maybe a tach on the steering column Under hood and drivetrain changes Still a 69 Ford 302 block, not a Coyote or a 351W, Cleveland or FE engine. All new internals, aluminum heads, intake and 4 barrel carb Plan to use original accessory brackets kept black with V-belts Upgraded to 24" Radiator 428CJ replica (not-aluminum) and clutch fan Aftermarket distributor but no MSD box AC components including Sanden compressor but looking for a way to hide the compressor under a plate T5 instead of C4 transmission Ceramic shorty headers and dual exhaust Upgrade differential with shorter gears and no more peg leg 11" disc brakes up front Will still have original style suspension and power steering, original style interior, factory paint color and other badging

Amazing work. I treat those fiberglass parts like gold.

Exactly

Yeah I wonder if it would look horrible with 2 for drivers and leave halogens for high beams

I think your car might be a candidate for a Terlingua Racing team sticker. I plan to get one for me after the paint job and put it either on a quarter window or bottom corner of the rear window. Someone on this site has it as their avatar. It was a club that Carrol Shelby was a part of or founded. Terlingua is a mythical place in Texas that is in the desert and used to host a chili festival. Let me know if you're interested and I can get you one.

I've used that paint before but never connected it to the pattern on those panels. Good thinking.

This is really nice write up, I'm going to do the same thing and I'm interested in the roller kit for the clutch pedal. Also on a previous post you mentioned the RPM Airgap, again we think alike. My budget limit kept me out of the Tremec you got and I'm going with a built T5 that has the clutch balance and everything else I need in a really good price. I won't Drag race it. I also got the JBA shorty headers w/ ceramic coat. I love them. I think are cars are destined to be kin only a year apart and so many of the same components/decisions.If you lived in Queensland we'd even be in sister states as that is the sister state to Texas.

Are you talking about HP and torque? I’m targeting about 450/400 carbureted. From what I’ve seen that should be good.

Removed my drip rail stainless with a tool from @Ridge Runner along with the roof line rubber and bracket. Also started on the stone guard trim and headlights

I finally got around to getting new sail panels and I got the fiberglass ones from ridge runner on this site. They have the texture and just need to be painted

I get your arguments from a nostalgia or packrat perspective but argue these assumptions The value in my original 302 engine is in the block. The rest of the parts (heads, intake, crank, etc.) with maybe the exception of the distributor and 4100 carb are worth their weight in scrap. My 4100 is probably parts only. If kept the engine and transmission would collect dust and deliver some shin bruises but would otherwise sit there until I die and then my kids have to do something with it. In the meantime I'll hear about it from my wife every couple weeks. I can sell the C4 and shifter and get a little money for them. Same with the valve covers, air cleaner and snorkel. Early 68-69 blocks are stronger than 80's roller blocks and except for need to add roller lifters will work great No-one wants a stock 302 2v in their car unless it is some rare edition they are keeping original. Probably not many of those around.

Yeah, I originally was going to do a milder build and the original block would be good for that. I'll ask my builder. There is a part of me that wants to say it still has the original engine in it ;) I also need to figure out what to do with my C4 transmission. I don't have a lot of storage space for any of this stuff.

Getting ready to rebuild my engine. It is a survivor stock 302. I have everything for it except the original carb is damaged and the heat riser tube rusted away years ago. My plan is to bore and hone the original block and then build the new engine with just the block as original. I’ll have all the old components that can be sold or donated for a restoration but just making sure to just go with my original plan. If I had a 428 or Boss 302 we would not be talking about this, it would stay original.

1969 Sportsroof owner here. Just pulling my car apart for paint and was shopping for the best sources of the roof rail stripping last night. I still have the original in mine but it is torn in a few places. Happy to help with this project.

Where's the drool emogi when you need it.

Does it hit if you remove the engine cover?

Man that sucks. You've got a lot on your plate now.

Yeah my door is the passenger side. I missed that part.

Oh and which cylinder heads are you using? Your lower end sounds just like my plans and planning on Trick Flow 11r heads.

Love those Grabbers. I have a 69 and doing a lot of the same things you are. Paint and a 347 are next and I may add the grabber stripes on it.

I might have a parts door in Texas. Still on the car but comes off in a few weeks and I still need to get my window tracks out of it

fold down rear seat? If your avatar is your car (Convertible) can you go through the rear seat? I had something like this happen to me a while back and I used the palm of my hand to push down on the lid quick (like a slap) and see if it would rebound off the rubber seal.

Starting to lean towards the 347. I have a January 1969 build car so a very early 302 block which I hear is good. I'm painting the car at the same time so I only have enough to do the engine and the T5 transmission is going to be a good deal so I'll squeeze that in too. New gears in the 8" rear is the plan instead of a new housing. I think I'll be on the edge of the T5 and the 8" but since I am more likely to have a road race track day than a 1/4 mile I think I will be ok.