TexasEd

good idea on the wall protector

Any links to those articles?

Yeah, I don't think I'll show that picture to my wife. I have started getting the shelves back in the garage and most of the kids' toys are out there again. It doesn't look too much better in the kitchen yet though. Anything that goes back in the garage has to make it past the garbage can and the donation box I have set aside.

Overhauin' put a set on a convertible. It involved replacing the vert's quarter panels with fastback quarter panels and blending them in. The convertible and coupe have narrower fender humps than the fastback.

Almost done. Going to put the clear top coat down tomorrow.

I wasn't planning on documenting this:

My first post was about getting my original 1969 Fastback home after it had been at my dad's and now my brothers over the last 20+ years. I should have it back in Texas by the end of August so I used my wife's out of town trip as an opportunity to get ready for the homecoming. Before: Now: I have to etch the concrete and make sure all the oil stains are up and then I'll seal it with epoxy coating. I better hurry up because I've got to get the bikes and toys out of the kitchen before my wife gets home from her trip. I think my daughters are going to think I cleaned it out just for their Barbie Jeep. Anyone need a Craftsman radial arm saw or table saw, both with induction 120/240V motors? Let me know.

good to hear

Has anyone used the Scat Procar Rally series front seats in Maroon? http://www.mustangsplus.com/xcart/Scat-ProCar-Rally-Vinyl-Seats.html I have a '69 with the dark red (maroon) interior and want to know if it coordinated with your carpet and rear seats.

Sorry, you are looking for which harness goes on the alternator. Are you using the original alternator or a newer model, I know that makes a difference and a newer alternator can burn out an old gauge. I would check with midlife on what you need if you can't figure it out.

May be a short in the circuit board.

Why, because he spelled "moulding" correctly? :yes:

Here is a good reference site with pictures of the various instrument clusters for 69 & 70. http://1970mgr.org/_DifferencesGauges.htm So in a factory tachometer equipped car there was no ammeter, just a warning light on the tach.

You don't need to go R&P to get power steering, There should be less expensive options based on the original power assisted steering Ford used. I can't help on the AC front, but take a lard iced tea with you and go to a drive-in meet and park in the shade for a while or go later in the evening.

That's it, there are different codes you can copy, I think those are the "direct link" codes. If you see one that says, "IMG code" you can use that one instead and it will actually put the image in the post instead of just the link, like this:

Disclaimer: I'm not an expert, but what I understand: A stroker is an engine that has a longer stroke than stock usually combined with over boring the cylinder to create a higher displacement than the engine originally had. So a 302 cu in engine could be bored & stroked to 331 or 347 cu in. You could get a 327 out of it by just adding stroke to the standard bore or a 306 by just boring .030 over and stock stroke. Same thing applies to 351 based blocks but with higher displacements. Here's the website for Ford Strokers: http://www.fordstrokers.com/index.php

A lot of people recommend ford strokers but I have not used them.

Have you looked into the Upper control Arm or Shelby drop? That may be the way you want to go and doesn't cost anything except labor unless you buy the template to do it which is cheap.

Looks great to me, IMHO you don't need to change a thing about the looks.

or a probe.

Wow, I hadn't thought of that. I would have figured the parts people traded the parts for advertizing since they prominently mention where they get the motor, transmission, etc and the guys wear the t-shirts from those companies.

Big Secz, I've read that it takes some time to get the steering box broken in. Did you ever get the the alignment issues resolved? According to this site http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/suspension101.html#3 the factory specs are not good for these cars because Ford designed them for "passive driving on 1960s tires" Here are there recommended settings: You might want to try to contact the author of that site and see what he says before you take any more steps. The last time I drove my car it was like you described, all over the place and made you look like you were driving drunk. I plan to refurb or replace my steering box, hopefully keep the same pump and also replace the rubber bushings on the control arms with roller bearings when I get into my suspension.

Not having the money to restore the car is a possible indicator of needing the money selling the car could bring.

Thanks, how does one go about finding this style of seats for sale? It says they were from Unique, did they have them specially made or is there a manufacturer you can get them from?

Anyone recognize what kind of seats are in that car?